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Troubleshooting another problem I thought it was I usually leave my car charger plugged into the arm rest slot and that's always on wondering if its drawing too much power from the battery is that even possible with that small charger not plugged into my phone I also always have an aux cable there too but that's not the case since it went off today when I had it unplugged
I have the same in my arm rest plug and a aux cable that's all dead when key is off. So cant be that . I did think that as well. But tested it and all the power to them is off when the ignition is off.
 

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So I just ran a quick test using FORScan, there doesn't appear to be any way of accessing the VSM to read the trigger history, but running the 'scope function on the "Generic Electronic Module" that reads the door switches etc all the switches seem secure. However, the battery voltage started at 11.4v and during the short test time I ran it for dropped to 11.2 which makes me think the battery is the problem here (bottom trace in purple).

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239828
 

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Just popped back out test something else and I got a low battery dtc and the battery had dropped to under 9V! Safe to say the battery is shagged!
 

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And so it goes on...

New battery fitted, fine for about 3 days then the alarm went off again. I got the DVM out and checked the battery and was getting 12.5V on the battery and good connections through the battery leads. Checking the current draw I'm only seeing about 0.1-0.2A so it doesn't seem to be excessive current draw. I've replaced the blown headlight bulbs I had in case it was that but that hasn't fixed it either.

I found a scorched connector in the under bonnet fuse box
239886
so I've cleaned that up too.
Alarm still went off!

Driving to the shops and back yesterday though I noticed the rear seat seatbelt warning light flick on (at which point my wife said that she'd seen it come on earlier too). If this is starting to play up could it be the cause of my intermittent alarm? If so is there any way of diagnosing it? If I start unplugging things is it likely to trigger my airbag?
 

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And so it goes on...

Driving to the shops and back yesterday though I noticed the rear seat seatbelt warning light flick on (at which point my wife said that she'd seen it come on earlier too). If this is starting to play up could it be the cause of my intermittent alarm? If so is there any way of diagnosing it? If I start unplugging things is it likely to trigger my airbag?
Good work so far. Electrical can be quite frustrating.
I would not imagine a seat-belt to trigger your alarm but it may point to a larger electrical issue. Perhaps water entering the cabin (I hear it rains a lot where you live) and compromising the BCM? I believe it is located on the passenger (RHD) side kick panel. There are some rubber grommets for the hood release (LHD) that can become compromised and cause water to enter. Alarm controls (shock sensor) are also located down there.

To answer your airbag question. All the airbag associated connectors are yellow. If you disconnect or connect these yellow connectors it is recommended that you do so with the battery disconnected (at least 1 min). The chaps at the body repair shop tell me that it is sufficient to have the ignition off but I don't trust it.
 

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Good work so far. Electrical can be quite frustrating.
I would not imagine a seat-belt to trigger your alarm but it may point to a larger electrical issue. Perhaps water entering the cabin (I hear it rains a lot where you live) and compromising the BCM? I believe it is located on the passenger (RHD) side kick panel. There are some rubber grommets for the hood release (LHD) that can become compromised and cause water to enter. Alarm controls (shock sensor) are also located down there.

To answer your airbag question. All the airbag associated connectors are yellow. If you disconnect or connect these yellow connectors it is recommended that you do so with the battery disconnected (at least 1 min). The chaps at the body repair shop tell me that it is sufficient to have the ignition off but I don't trust it.
Cool, I'll take a look at that. As far as I know, I don't have any moisture issues inside the car but you never know!
 

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I know this post is quite old, but sure enough, our 2011 Mazda 6 just started having this problem. I replaced the battery, no luck. Replaced FOB batteries, no luck. WD-40'd the door latches, no luck. Finally stumbled on this wiring diagram and have bridged the wires on the rear drivers side door. I just did this a couple hours ago and so far so good. The real test will be throughout the day, if it remains quiet. I'll do the passenger side door next, if the alarm triggers. Either way, thanks for this. I'm hopeful this will solve our problem.

Australian Mazda GH 2008 2.5L Manual Sports Luxury
After a year of this happening i have finally decided to give this a go. Its not for everybody but it costs nothing. Trick is to bridge the wires for the door ajar sensor in the problem door. All this will mean is your car wont be able to tell when that door is open. e.g. can lock it when its open and light wont come on if passenger opens it at night. Something im willing to bear.
After a trend started on this forum showing a common issue of the door latches showing ajar so i knew it must be one of them, especially since as the problem became moreefrequent, my door ajar light started coming on whilst driving. I went to a friendly Autoelectrician that gave me the entire electrical manual for my car for free (what a legend) and i knew i had to disable (bridge) the door ajar sensor in each door until it stopped. Below is the diagram for all 4 doors.
View attachment 238576
As per the diagram, the wires that need to be bridged are as follows:
Driver: Black/Blue with Black/Yellow
Front Passenger: Red/Green with Black/Yellow
Rear Right: White/Black with Black
Rear Left: Black/White with Black

I litteraly stuck a stripped end insulated wire into the back of the plug for the two relevant ones.
View attachment 238578
Take the door panel off (youtube) and the plug is at the back near the latch.
Then its a matter of process of elimination, this is my back right door, i bridged the white w/ black stripe and black wires and the door light went off.

Good Luck!
 

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Just to add to this known problem. My Mazda has done this forever too. The only factor is that it does it in the warm/sunny weather and not the winter. I've replaced battery and checked doors etc and no luck.

It's probably related to the fact that the battery drains when the car is sitting, imagine there's something drawing power that shouldn't. If I leave the car for a week (or in the most recent case - 6 weeks), it's dead as a dead thing. Measured it today at 3v.
 
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