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Troubleshooting another problem I thought it was I usually leave my car charger plugged into the arm rest slot and that's always on wondering if its drawing too much power from the battery is that even possible with that small charger not plugged into my phone I also always have an aux cable there too but that's not the case since it went off today when I had it unplugged
I have the same in my arm rest plug and a aux cable that's all dead when key is off. So cant be that . I did think that as well. But tested it and all the power to them is off when the ignition is off.
 

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So I just ran a quick test using FORScan, there doesn't appear to be any way of accessing the VSM to read the trigger history, but running the 'scope function on the "Generic Electronic Module" that reads the door switches etc all the switches seem secure. However, the battery voltage started at 11.4v and during the short test time I ran it for dropped to 11.2 which makes me think the battery is the problem here (bottom trace in purple).

239827


239828
 

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Just popped back out test something else and I got a low battery dtc and the battery had dropped to under 9V! Safe to say the battery is shagged!
 

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And so it goes on...

New battery fitted, fine for about 3 days then the alarm went off again. I got the DVM out and checked the battery and was getting 12.5V on the battery and good connections through the battery leads. Checking the current draw I'm only seeing about 0.1-0.2A so it doesn't seem to be excessive current draw. I've replaced the blown headlight bulbs I had in case it was that but that hasn't fixed it either.

I found a scorched connector in the under bonnet fuse box
239886
so I've cleaned that up too.
Alarm still went off!

Driving to the shops and back yesterday though I noticed the rear seat seatbelt warning light flick on (at which point my wife said that she'd seen it come on earlier too). If this is starting to play up could it be the cause of my intermittent alarm? If so is there any way of diagnosing it? If I start unplugging things is it likely to trigger my airbag?
 

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And so it goes on...

Driving to the shops and back yesterday though I noticed the rear seat seatbelt warning light flick on (at which point my wife said that she'd seen it come on earlier too). If this is starting to play up could it be the cause of my intermittent alarm? If so is there any way of diagnosing it? If I start unplugging things is it likely to trigger my airbag?
Good work so far. Electrical can be quite frustrating.
I would not imagine a seat-belt to trigger your alarm but it may point to a larger electrical issue. Perhaps water entering the cabin (I hear it rains a lot where you live) and compromising the BCM? I believe it is located on the passenger (RHD) side kick panel. There are some rubber grommets for the hood release (LHD) that can become compromised and cause water to enter. Alarm controls (shock sensor) are also located down there.

To answer your airbag question. All the airbag associated connectors are yellow. If you disconnect or connect these yellow connectors it is recommended that you do so with the battery disconnected (at least 1 min). The chaps at the body repair shop tell me that it is sufficient to have the ignition off but I don't trust it.
 

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Good work so far. Electrical can be quite frustrating.
I would not imagine a seat-belt to trigger your alarm but it may point to a larger electrical issue. Perhaps water entering the cabin (I hear it rains a lot where you live) and compromising the BCM? I believe it is located on the passenger (RHD) side kick panel. There are some rubber grommets for the hood release (LHD) that can become compromised and cause water to enter. Alarm controls (shock sensor) are also located down there.

To answer your airbag question. All the airbag associated connectors are yellow. If you disconnect or connect these yellow connectors it is recommended that you do so with the battery disconnected (at least 1 min). The chaps at the body repair shop tell me that it is sufficient to have the ignition off but I don't trust it.
Cool, I'll take a look at that. As far as I know, I don't have any moisture issues inside the car but you never know!
 

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I know this post is quite old, but sure enough, our 2011 Mazda 6 just started having this problem. I replaced the battery, no luck. Replaced FOB batteries, no luck. WD-40'd the door latches, no luck. Finally stumbled on this wiring diagram and have bridged the wires on the rear drivers side door. I just did this a couple hours ago and so far so good. The real test will be throughout the day, if it remains quiet. I'll do the passenger side door next, if the alarm triggers. Either way, thanks for this. I'm hopeful this will solve our problem.

Australian Mazda GH 2008 2.5L Manual Sports Luxury
After a year of this happening i have finally decided to give this a go. Its not for everybody but it costs nothing. Trick is to bridge the wires for the door ajar sensor in the problem door. All this will mean is your car wont be able to tell when that door is open. e.g. can lock it when its open and light wont come on if passenger opens it at night. Something im willing to bear.
After a trend started on this forum showing a common issue of the door latches showing ajar so i knew it must be one of them, especially since as the problem became moreefrequent, my door ajar light started coming on whilst driving. I went to a friendly Autoelectrician that gave me the entire electrical manual for my car for free (what a legend) and i knew i had to disable (bridge) the door ajar sensor in each door until it stopped. Below is the diagram for all 4 doors.
View attachment 238576
As per the diagram, the wires that need to be bridged are as follows:
Driver: Black/Blue with Black/Yellow
Front Passenger: Red/Green with Black/Yellow
Rear Right: White/Black with Black
Rear Left: Black/White with Black

I litteraly stuck a stripped end insulated wire into the back of the plug for the two relevant ones.
View attachment 238578
Take the door panel off (youtube) and the plug is at the back near the latch.
Then its a matter of process of elimination, this is my back right door, i bridged the white w/ black stripe and black wires and the door light went off.

Good Luck!
 

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Just to add to this known problem. My Mazda has done this forever too. The only factor is that it does it in the warm/sunny weather and not the winter. I've replaced battery and checked doors etc and no luck.

It's probably related to the fact that the battery drains when the car is sitting, imagine there's something drawing power that shouldn't. If I leave the car for a week (or in the most recent case - 6 weeks), it's dead as a dead thing. Measured it today at 3v.
 

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Finally got around to installing the new actuator was pretty easy actually the tech at Mazda said I had to remove the window which was false there is enough room to replace the part without removing it which made me happy.

A quick How-To: Part #GS3L-73-310E

1) Remove door panel, two screws-one behind the plastic piece in the door handle the other under the rubber piece on the arm rest handle

2) Run your hand around the sides and bottom of the door panel to pop it off the tabs might take a little force dont worry you wont break anything.
Then lift the panel up and out being careful since the handle and one connector is attached

3) Unhook the two lines going to the lock and opening handle from the actuator then remove the lower connector, its a little tight to work with and you have to push down on the white center part of the connector then slide it out

4) Remove the clear plastic part held on by some tack glue, one connector on the front of the actuator, and three star bolts on the side of the door. This is where I messed up and stripped one of the bolts since I didnt have the correct size star wrench but got it out after some strugging, it will then slide out with some maneuvering



5) Replace with the new part and be sure to have the metal rod in the hole of the new actuator when replaced (this is on the rear of the part facing toward the ouside of the door) connect the lines back to the lock and handle as you took them off, connect and button everything back up and replace that 15 amp horn fuse! my favorite part of the install :)
 

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Thanks your post really helpful, I replaced rear door latch but am still having the same problem also had a charger in the cigarette lighter, took that out . Took the horn fuse out, panic mode still firing off??? 2 years of this about to give up o_O
 

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I know this post is quite old, but sure enough, our 2011 Mazda 6 just started having this problem. I replaced the battery, no luck. Replaced FOB batteries, no luck. WD-40'd the door latches, no luck. Finally stumbled on this wiring diagram and have bridged the wires on the rear drivers side door. I just did this a couple hours ago and so far so good. The real test will be throughout the day, if it remains quiet. I'll do the passenger side door next, if the alarm triggers. Either way, thanks for this. I'm hopeful this will solve our problem.
Thanks for the wiring diagrams. My 2010 has been doing this for years. I'm prefectly happy to not have the lights turn on as long as the alarm stops going off sporadically and frequently. My dogs are the only rear seat passengers.

I never knew if the sensor was "on" open or closed and didn't know if I'd have to bridge or cut wires (and which ones).

@motarque did this finally stop the alarm?
 
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