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One of my coworkers told me today that he had just gotten back from lunch and was sitting in his car in the parking lot when my alarm sounded for about 1 minute. He told me there was nothing near it, nobody even drove by.

srt4jake, I hope you find something out and let us know what's causing this.

~Mike
 

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I actually took it to Mazda and they hooked it up there goes $100 instantly after a bit of searching he found that the rear driver side door locking mechanism was the culprit it must be corroded or just have a bad connection.

Ask for them to check the FFD (freeze frame data) stored in the VSM (vehicle security module) it shows the last 10 triggers for the alarm.

Battery was tested and checked out so no worries there thank god. Now just waiting for the part another $85 then ill try installing it myself and post up pics for anyone else, just glad this is over with was a real PITA.
 

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Finally got around to installing the new actuator was pretty easy actually the tech at Mazda said I had to remove the window which was false there is enough room to replace the part without removing it which made me happy.

A quick How-To: Part #GS3L-73-310E

1) Remove door panel, two screws-one behind the plastic piece in the door handle the other under the rubber piece on the arm rest handle

2) Run your hand around the sides and bottom of the door panel to pop it off the tabs might take a little force dont worry you wont break anything.
Then lift the panel up and out being careful since the handle and one connector is attached

3) Unhook the two lines going to the lock and opening handle from the actuator then remove the lower connector, its a little tight to work with and you have to push down on the white center part of the connector then slide it out

4) Remove the clear plastic part held on by some tack glue, one connector on the front of the actuator, and three star bolts on the side of the door. This is where I messed up and stripped one of the bolts since I didnt have the correct size star wrench but got it out after some strugging, it will then slide out with some maneuvering



5) Replace with the new part and be sure to have the metal rod in the hole of the new actuator when replaced (this is on the rear of the part facing toward the ouside of the door) connect the lines back to the lock and handle as you took them off, connect and button everything back up and replace that 15 amp horn fuse! my favorite part of the install :)
 

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I've been having the same issues as everyone else and I finally got it resolved. I dealt with a crazy alarm going off at all hours of the day and night, and a dome light and door open warning that would come on while driving. My only relief was to manually lock my doors using the key. After a long battle with the dealership telling me that they couldn't help me, they finally did.

Turns out my problem was a faulty door actuator.when my car was locked using the key fob or door button that's when my problem began. Apparently my door sensor would fail causing the system to think that a door was open.

Once I got that fixed all was well again.

Mine was the same left rear passenger door as srt4jake.
 

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Part #GS3L-73-310E can be found at mazdapartsunlimited.com for $65.82 right now.
I would probably still need to have the dealer hook up and make sure that's the correct door. Don't want to replace that one and find out its the wrong door.

~Mike
 

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I am having the same problem w/ my 09 mazda 6, its been happening for years. I brought my car to the dealership about 2 years ago and they said they didn't find anything "wrong" and just dismissed it. Some months are better then others, but recently it has been happening every day, usually in the middle of the night which is driving me crazy. I then started leaving my car unlocked so it wouldn't go off, but just my luck someone broke into my car. So now I keep it locked and keep the key on my nightstand for when it goes off. I'm bringing my car back to the dealership next week, and I expect some sort of resolution. I'm glad I found this thread so I can print out all of your posts and bring it to the dealership to show them I'm not the only one.
 

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I thought is was the fob battery too, I replaced the battery in both and still have the problem. I'm bringing my car in on Tuesday to have it checked out.
 

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Hey srt4jake,

I just started having the same issue! My car goes off all the time during the day at work. I leave it unlocked so I dont have to deal with it at night in my garage. I called the dealer and they keep saying I have a aftermarket alarm and will charge $140 just to even look at it. What BS!!!

The local Mazda dealership replaced 2 doorlock activators (total $550) but since I just got it back, we'll see if that worked. I wonder if the new recall would fix the problem? I'll bet it would.
 

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The new recall may fix this problem. I spent big money on two doorlock actuators but I'll bet the recall starting Oct.18 will fix the problem. Wish I had known about it. You can just take out the fuse for the horn and it will stop the honking when the alarm goes off. Dave
 

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The new recall may fix this problem. I spent big money on two doorlock actuators but I'll bet the recall starting Oct.18 will fix the problem. Wish I had known about it. You can just take out the fuse for the horn and it will stop the honking when the alarm goes off. Dave
As far as I know you are talking about the hinge recall. I doubt this would have anything to do with the alarm system.
 

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A quick list:
Battery voltage: a fully charged battery is 2.11 ~ 2.16 volts per cell or >12.6Vdc
Someone with this problem scan the PID log - ECM reports the battery and system voltage. A bad connection could have the system running on lower voltage than the battery. Torque Pro for android does this.
Doors - roll down a window and watch the dome light. Gently pull out on each door and see if it triggers the light. It could be an adjustment or bad connection to one of the switches.
Under the hood is a switch too, Check it.

More complex: cars with moor roof have been known to have the drain ports plug. From this, the piller fills with water and can wet the BCM. The ECM is LF under the dash. BCM is below it. Disconnect the battery, remove the kick panel and unplug the ECM, BCM, and Alarm inspecting the pins and mating connections for opens, burns, corrosion, pushed out connectors, anything that looks strange. Reassemble. This could fix a bad connection.

Just some thoughts...
 

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Well, I went to the dealership yesterday and they found the problem. Well at least I hope so! They were able to pull up the computer report as to what is triggering the alarm to go off. The found out that it is the rear left door lock that was triggering the alarm. The ordered the part, it should be in within a few days and then I will bring my car back to them to have it installed. I really hope this fixes the problem...cost for the part and labor is approx. $172, however I was able to get some discounts being my brother works for the dealership.
 
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I had the exact same problem. Took it to dealership, check the alarm triggers, turned out the one rear door latch was the cause of trigger every time. Replaced the latch, cost $150 with labor I think. The alarm hasn't gone off since
 
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