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Discussion Starter #1
Sorry but i saw once a link on How To, for airbox mod and now i can't find it :irate: ....
If anyone could throw it over here i would appreciate

Thank you
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thank you soo much.......

I searched for it today and found tons of info but no pictures..... And i know for sure that i saw those pictures awhile a go...

Thanks again
 

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Discussion Starter #5
By the way should i unplug the battery before i start???
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Hi
Just finished Air Box Mod and all i can say is that i LOVE the new Sound...... :drool:
i do not see any difference when it comes to engine responce but soon CP-E CAI should change that :D
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Just one question what this flapper does????

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #10
yank it. did you leave it in there?
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Nop i took it out, I took out the flapper, tuba, and resonator...
I was just wondering what is the purpose of flapper.....
 

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Discussion Starter #12
i'm guessing some kind of air regulation. it doesn't make sense as that's not the only place the air comes through, but that's the only thing that i can think of.
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I know it's kinda odd why u need this exra piece of plactic....

But now i don't have to worry LOL

WRRRRRRUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUMMMMMMMMMMMMMMM!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 

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The flapper works with vacuum lines to restrict air at lower RPMs for better fuel efficiency. When you get on it, the flapper opens up to allow more air.
 

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After 2 days of driving, I replaced everything except the tray. Car sounded like it had an exhaust leak, IMO. I hope you enjoy yours.
 

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There's a link on the main page of Mazda6club.com about mazda's intake system. The flapper is part of the VAD (variable air displacement) system. In essence, it is a secondary air intake that remains closed at lower rpms to keep engine noise down, and opens above 4500 rpms to give you more power. Some of us happen to like having a louder engine at the lower rpms as well, so I love the airbox mod. ;)
 

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I did the mod, but then reversed it for two reasons:

1. Didn't really care for the sound, and
2. With the K&N Air Filter being slightly LESS resistant than paper, I didn't want to allow more dirt in through more openings to the airbox.

So I put it all back.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
2. With the K&N Air Filter being slightly LESS resistant than paper, I didn't want to allow more dirt in through more openings to the airbox.

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Well can i just use a regular OEM paper air filter... I know i will have change it alot more often but not as much dirt will get to the engine.

Right???? :sarc:
 

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Well can i just use a regular OEM paper air filter... I know i will have change it alot more often but not as much dirt will get to the engine.

Right???? :sarc:
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I have to say, I was debating getting a K&N filter, but the only real benefit anybody could tell me is that you can clean it and reuse. My stock air filter cost $12, the K&N cost $60. I changed my air filter for the first time this month, that's 3 years. So, at that rate, it would be 15 years before the K&N would start to make up for the extra cost by being reusable. I prefer stock.
 

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I have to say, I was debating getting a K&N filter, but the only real benefit anybody could tell me is that you can clean it and reuse. My stock air filter cost $12, the K&N cost $60. I changed my air filter for the first time this month, that's 3 years. So, at that rate, it would be 15 years before the K&N would start to make up for the extra cost by being reusable. I prefer stock.
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Yeah, definitely better for you. But I put 35K miles a year on my car, so I change it frequently.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
K&N is arround $45+shipping so yeah.
But it my case i will use just stock air filter cause its filters better the air that is comming to the engine... corect me if i'm wrong but K&N will let more dust to the engine.....

Thought i'm not 100% sure just saw couple of posts about that in the past and ppl were saying that.
 
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