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I am installing an option racing intake CAI and im using these instructions: http://www.mazda6tech.com/index.php?option...id=39&Itemid=49

the problem comes when it says:

Step 19: Install the original vacum flapper hose onto the lower intake nipple. The nipple is closed to BLOCK the vacuum. This is by design as the original purpose of the vacuum was to open/close the flapper at a preset RPM. Since the flapper no longer exists, it is no longer necessary, and must be blocked off to prevent vacuum leaks from occuring. (Which result in nasty shifting and odd car behavior). If you were using the duct tape method of marking removed items, make sure to remove the duct tape as you reattach the items.

And i dont understand what it means by "the nipple is closed". My little tube is NOT closed, or blocked, i can blow air thru it like a straw.

Clarification please?
 

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That hose needs to be blocked off. If there isn't anything on the intake to hook it to, then use a golf tee or screw to block the airflow.

The little hose provides vacuum to control the VAD (variable air duct) thats connected to the airbox. If you don't plug the vacuum hose, you will have a vacuum leak which can and will cause a variety of problems.
 

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That hose needs to be blocked off. If there isn't anything on the intake to hook it to, then use a golf tee or screw to block the airflow.

The little hose provides vacuum to control the VAD (variable air duct) thats connected to the airbox. If you don't plug the vacuum hose, you will have a vacuum leak which can and will cause a variety of problems.
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Ok now i have a problem connecting the big hose, it didnt come with a replacement one so...
 

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Ok now i have a problem connecting the big hose, it didnt come with a replacement one so...
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LoL, 5 hours later, i was at least able to try it. I had problems taking the airbox off, installing the actual filter at the end since i had 6 in of elevation to work with, the grounding since i dont have the proper tool to take off that particular bolt but i chose a better ground, it didnt come with a replacement hose for the big hose so i made my own "adapter" which i dont know how long it will last. Everything works except for the rubber bushing which just broke while putting it on since it didnt even alight right, so i tried epoxying it which was a quick fix that lasted just long enough for me to try out my hard work.

I started it, no problems, i could notice the sweet new sound. Left it idle for like 5 mins, revved it a little, and too it out for a ride. The new sound is sexy, it switches gears smoother now (i cant explain this, it just does), i can notice the extra power, its gota be 15-20+hp. I can even burn out easily in 1st gear with tiptronics now. Remember i have the 4cyl version tho.

Well tomorrow im gona fix that bushing problem and w/e else needs a fix. I liked what i saw tho when i tried it. BTW this intake cost me $71 shipped from ebay brand new, brand Optimum Racing LOL.

my 1st aftermarket part yey...
 

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...i can notice the extra power, its gota be 15-20+hp. I can even burn out easily in 1st gear with tiptronics now. Remember i have the 4cyl version tho.
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its most certainly not 15-20hp. and most certainly not that much on an atx. if you're still on those shitty michelin tires, thats why you can burn out "easily." upgrade to a good set a tires and i guarantee you wont be able to do that.

intakes do sound excellent though. yummy.
 

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yeah not 20hp....maybe 8-10 at most...then you will get a CEL. Have fun. Oh, and no matter what intake you use and how much you spend on the intake, the 6i ATX is still horribly slow.
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....not ALWAYS!
 

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That woooooosh sound you're hearing is Mr Tea pwning you. :)
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i saw a thread with all of them and there was one brand that gave it 15-20 and others 10hp the least with dyno graphs and all. this brand didnt show, but for $70 it works pretty damn well, and yes at least 10hp because it IS noticeable..
 

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Placebo? 10 would be pretty damn nice.

On the V6 CPE gives the most, at 20ish but that is with an air / fuel customizer box, and about $480 ish more then what you paid :)

Taking the manufacturers claims to heart or things is like assuming your dealer is telling you the truth about your car price, and how its a GREAT deal :). To be sure you would have to dyno it, which many people have done already.

In the end though, its all about what you think of it, so if it makes you feel good and you think that it gives you the power, then who cares. If you have fun with it, then thats all that matters. Gl with future mods.
 

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Placebo? 10 would be pretty damn nice.

On the V6 CPE gives the most, at 20ish but that is with an air / fuel customizer box, and about $480 ish more then what you paid :)

Taking the manufacturers claims to heart or things is like assuming your dealer is telling you the truth about your car price, and how its a GREAT deal :). To be sure you would have to dyno it, which many people have done already.

In the end though, its all about what you think of it, so if it makes you feel good and you think that it gives you the power, then who cares. If you have fun with it, then thats all that matters. Gl with future mods.
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Im not a BS'r and certainly cant BS myself like a lot of people can, i wish i could. Im a realist, and the improvement is very noticeable and very highly doubt a mere 5hp has that effect. If it does, damn where can i get more parts imagine +20hp!
 

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Dyno's are located here
http://forum.mazda6tech.com/viewforum.php?f=42

Most of the brand name manufacturer dyno's add roughly 6 whp and roughly 7 ft/lbs.

If you add fuel tuning to that, you get higher in the 10-14 range in whp, and about double the torque as well.

A single intake isn't going to add significantly more then 5 whp on a 6i ATX, (peak), but can see gains as large as 10 or so on other parts of the power curve...just not in max output.
 
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