well midway through reading the post i was gonna say that install was gonna get you for the money on the downpipe. But after reading further, id say downpipe as it seems to be the most restrictive area on the car. Id say both though, but downpipe first if anything. Maybe the airbox mod for starters with it. Have fun either way
AEM intake or ATP downpipe.....
Well, I'm on the fence as to which mod to do first. I figure the AEM will be the most bang for the buck according to the dyno numbers at $250, but I have a wierd logic. Since it's Christmas time, I'll have more money than usual, like $450 or so to spend. Which would only happen now. That is hard for me to come up with anytime anymore. If I bought the AEM, I'd have enough left to get the Infinity Ref speakers I've been contemplating as well. I've heard the DP is a pita, but I've done quite a bit of pita work on other cars, like longtube headers on a LS1 Z28. Thanks!!
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I read a post on another forum where a guy said it took 5 hours for him to put the DP on. That sucks. I did the free airbox mod on day 3, it was the same as our other Mazda6s's. I wonder how accurate AEM's claims are at 28 whp.
probably false, but i love the sound that intakes provide the car with. The downpipe i would believe to be more than a PITA install. But hey, you did say you isntalled some long tubes on that z28. All come down to how much time you wanna put in i guess...
im glad i did my intake first, its exactly what i was looking for. slightly better SOTP feel, but that sweet turbo sound is finalyl audible.
however, if you're looking strictly for more get up and go, do the d/p. that would be myt suggestion.
however, if you're looking strictly for more get up and go, do the d/p. that would be myt suggestion.
I just did my CAI and I'm glad I did but then again, although the gains were noticeable, I wouldn't they were mindblowing. From the research that I did, seemed like most people thought CAI gains would be closer to 10whp. AEM's 28whp seems optimistic (my car definitely doesn't feel like it has 10-15% more power).
OR for $100 more than the DP you could get the ETS TMIC...from the reviews I've read, that gives definite gains. One guy said his car didn't feel "heavy" anymore. Plus the install looks like a snap.
OR for $100 more than the DP you could get the ETS TMIC...from the reviews I've read, that gives definite gains. One guy said his car didn't feel "heavy" anymore. Plus the install looks like a snap.
I was in the same situation as you, but I went ahead an ordered CAI and it arrived today. 
I thoguht about the DP, but my car only has 400 miles on it and if I want the reflash, clutch and any other problem look at, I don't want to have to remove the DP until I rack up a few more miles. CAI is much easier.
As far as a PITA work, I installed LT header on my mustang convertible and it was a bitch.
I thoguht about the DP, but my car only has 400 miles on it and if I want the reflash, clutch and any other problem look at, I don't want to have to remove the DP until I rack up a few more miles. CAI is much easier.As far as a PITA work, I installed LT header on my mustang convertible and it was a bitch.
For the most Bang for the buck no doubt get the DP. But you need to install it yourself. The intake (CP-E) offers no difference in SOTP at least for me, but it does sound COOL.
I'm thinking the DP would be a good idea just because they ALWAYS provide good gains on turbo cars. The dyno charts show fattened power from idle past the normal power curve. The CPE comes with I'm guessing an 02 sim, which is a plus in my book as I don't have time to deal with a CEL.
BTW- try sticking your hand between the passenger side fenderwell and exhaust manifold on a 98-up Z28/Trans Am, they suck to work on, but I liked doing it.
I wish I could see some real dyno before after numbers on intakes. With so many aftermarket companies, you don't know who to trust. With a turbo car, heatsoaking it then cooling it off is the easiest trick in the book.
BTW- try sticking your hand between the passenger side fenderwell and exhaust manifold on a 98-up Z28/Trans Am, they suck to work on, but I liked doing it.
I wish I could see some real dyno before after numbers on intakes. With so many aftermarket companies, you don't know who to trust. With a turbo car, heatsoaking it then cooling it off is the easiest trick in the book.
I didn't notice any difference in performance from my CAI. But the car did feel different after the ETS TMIC install.....Nothing mind blowing, but it did feel different.
The only thing that lets me know the CAI is there is the sound it makes.
The only thing that lets me know the CAI is there is the sound it makes.
So a DP will void the warranty?I was in the same situation as you, but I went ahead an ordered CAI and it arrived today.
As far as a PITA work, I installed LT header on my mustang convertible and it was a bitch.
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Edited: For spelling and readability.
I'd say go for the DP. It will give you the most power and I think the install should be doable. I feel your pain about installing headers on an LS1 motor. I've done several LT1 and LS1 headers and each time I swear I will never do one again (It's a love hate relationship). The 6 Y pipe bolts will make you want to commit suicide. Have you done an opti-suck swap on an LT1? That's another PITA.
I'd say go for the DP. It will give you the most power and I think the install should be doable. I feel your pain about installing headers on an LS1 motor. I've done several LT1 and LS1 headers and each time I swear I will never do one again (It's a love hate relationship). The 6 Y pipe bolts will make you want to commit suicide. Have you done an opti-suck swap on an LT1? That's another PITA.
For your first mod, the CAI is much easier. Good sound, and I felt plenty of power. Also, after the DP is on, you won't hear the difference too much with your intake, as the uncatted noise covers up the intake sound at anything more than 1/2 throttle.
Thanks, I've been thinking the pita factor could cause a problem with me installing it and the idea of a CEL makes me nauseated. A buddy at work also has a Mitsu 1 gen crushed bov he wants $30 for. The intake sounds like the least troublesome mod and I'm sure it's at least good for 20 hp. Sucks the DP is so much work. Maybe the prices will drop or more will become avail if I wait a few months.
No, I didn't have the fortune of replacing an optispark. Glad I didn't. I've done 3 sets of suspension springs on F-bodys, valve springs (ls1), headers, various bolt ons. When I was 19, (1990), I put a set of Eibachs on my 1990 Civic Si in my mom's driveway with threaded spring compressors!!!
No, I didn't have the fortune of replacing an optispark. Glad I didn't. I've done 3 sets of suspension springs on F-bodys, valve springs (ls1), headers, various bolt ons. When I was 19, (1990), I put a set of Eibachs on my 1990 Civic Si in my mom's driveway with threaded spring compressors!!!
What's wrong with threaded spring compressors? I still own, and use, those bad boys. Hopefully, I'll be using them again soon if I can scrounge up a few extra bucks for the auto exe set.Thanks, I've been thinking the pita factor could cause a problem with me installing it and the idea of a CEL makes me nauseated. A buddy at work also has a Mitsu 1 gen crushed bov he wants $30 for. The intake sounds like the least troublesome mod and I'm sure it's at least good for 20 hp. Sucks the DP is so much work. Maybe the prices will drop or more will become avail if I wait a few months.
No, I didn't have the fortune of replacing an optispark. Glad I didn't. I've done 3 sets of suspension springs on F-bodys, valve springs (ls1), headers, various bolt ons. When I was 19, (1990), I put a set of Eibachs on my 1990 Civic Si in my mom's driveway with threaded spring compressors!!!
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As far as the intake goes, do you have any idea which one you are going to splurge (lol, splurge is such a nasty porn-style word) on? I know you mentioned AEM, but why not CPE?
I think $329 is crack smoking. People act like they spend hundreds of hours of R&D and dyno testing on these intakes. It's called sizing one up and fitting it to specific applications. I would probably lean towards AEM because they've been around a while and most all their stuff works well. Don't know jack about Fujita, someone said their filter sucked. I thought about mazdaspeed as well, but haven't seen any dyno numbers there.
I think $329 is crack smoking. People act like they spend hundreds of hours of R&D and dyno testing on these intakes. It's called sizing one up and fitting it to specific applications. I would probably lean towards AEM because they've been around a while and most all their stuff works well. Don't know jack about Fujita, someone said their filter sucked. I thought about mazdaspeed as well, but haven't seen any dyno numbers there.
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The MazdaSpeed is EXACTLY same as the AEM.
No. It has about $100 of Mazdaspeed logos on it.The MazdaSpeed is EXACTLY same as the AEM.
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If they are exactly the same, I'd go Mazdaspeed on the GP for the same price. I think I'm holding on the DP just because of time involved and it sucking up all my money. I down to the AEM or Mazdaspeed, the Mazdaspeed CAI being $20 more. Has anyone actually dyno'd an otherwise stock car with either of these intakes???? I'm also very interested in the Street Unit billet rear bone engine mount for $99. AS long as it doesn't make crazy vibrations.
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