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Discussion Starter #1
Hello everyone,

I'm new here and I know absolutely nothing about the mechanics of a car (except the basics). I recently got a black 2004 Mazda 6 sport, completely stock, and I was wondering what, if anything, absolutely needs to be done to the car to keep it going for a long time. It currently has 46,000 miles on it. I have a 1990 Isuzu Trooper LS with 250,000+ miles and my dad has a 1984 Honda Accord with similar mileage.

I've been reading this area of the forum for a couple days now and it seems like headers should be the first thing to be changed and it seems like MSDS or CP-e are the best brands. Is there correct?

What other things do you guys recommend?

I'm not looking to start putting down black streaks on the pavement everywhere I go, but I'd like to bring out the potential of the car.

Seems like a stupid question, but can most of this be done like DIY? I mean with relative ease. I'm into car audio and after learning how to do everything myself, I would never pay a shop to install anything audio-wise.

Right now I dont have a lot of funds, but I want to learn about everything so that when I am able to I can.

I will be checking the PCV valve in the next couple days, after reading about that topic.
 

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manual or ATX?
Not sure if headers would be the priority or not.
If you're technically inclined enough to install car audio then you'd be good enough to do the DIY work on the car.
Dang you only got 46K miles on your 2004? I got 106K already and it's also a 2004
About the intake, I have a KNN CAI which I can actually remove the elbow and convert it to a SRI. Honestly I feel a quicker response with the SRI but then again I'm only speaking about my car, your might be different.
On a side note I convereted it to SRI since it was cold weather at that time, now it's spring/summer i'm going to put it back as CAI.

just my two cents

oh BTW Welcome to the club
 

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It's ATX. I wish it was a manual...all of my other cars are manual and I just enjoy driving a manual more then an automatic... but it doesnt bother me that much since it's a M6s

Yea I was surprised about the mileage, but it seems the person who first had it (I'm second owner) left it in the garage mostly. The paint is pretty good. There are a few nicks that I'm gonna fix with some touch up paint.

My first priority is a tint, since I have a black car... with black leather int.....
but since I got quoted at $180 for all 4 doors and the back, I'll probably do this within the next two weeks and then get a CIA in a month. So that gives me plenty of time to learn more about them. I heard Fujita CIA's were pretty good and I'm thinking about trying it out since my girlfriend's last name is Fujita haha

Any other advice?
 

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ATX? A tranny cooler should be the first thing to do.
 

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I heard Fujita CIA's were pretty good and I'm thinking about trying it out since my girlfriend's last name is Fujita haha

Any other advice?
Fujitas are good, i myself was happier with the Injen CAI but mostly because it came in black, which matched the rest of the motor. Most people get the CPE CAI, more expensive but no CEL.
 

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AWR Motor mounts are nice. They will make your car feel more responsive. A lot of people on here just do the lower bone mount, but since this engine is a pendulum type, (two side mounts and a center mount) by replacing only one mount (bone) you are putting stress on the others causing an abnormal amount of vibrations. I did them one by one and wasnt happy untill the last one went in. But once it did... a world of difference.
Also Headers should only be attempted by someone with the correct tools and time. It took the "most experienced fastest exhaust tech" that my shop over 7 hours to install.... and that's with a lift and all the correct tools... BUT I no lok=nger have to worry about the header causing the motor to blow-
I think the most bang for the buck here seems to be the CPE MAFci intake and tuner. It will give you similar gains (around 20 hp) and only cost 500 and you can install yourself. The headers... cost 800 and you should save around 700 for install and a cat. (not including a catback. I have the stock cat back and it sounds like someone trying to play a horn with a straw in high RPM's... Flowmasters FTW...)
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Fujitas are good, i myself was happier with the Injen CAI but mostly because it came in black, which matched the rest of the motor. Most people get the CPE CAI, more expensive but no CEL.
I heard that the Fujitas usually dont give CELs also. Is that true?

AWR Motor mounts are nice. They will make your car feel more responsive. A lot of people on here just do the lower bone mount, but since this engine is a pendulum type, (two side mounts and a center mount) by replacing only one mount (bone) you are putting stress on the others causing an abnormal amount of vibrations. I did them one by one and wasnt happy untill the last one went in. But once it did... a world of difference.
Also Headers should only be attempted by someone with the correct tools and time. It took the "most experienced fastest exhaust tech" that my shop over 7 hours to install.... and that's with a lift and all the correct tools... BUT I no lok=nger have to worry about the header causing the motor to blow-
I think the most bang for the buck here seems to be the CPE MAFci intake and tuner. It will give you similar gains (around 20 hp) and only cost 500 and you can install yourself. The headers... cost 800 and you should save around 700 for install and a cat. (not including a catback. I have the stock cat back and it sounds like someone trying to play a horn with a straw in high RPM's... Flowmasters FTW...)

Thanks for the post. I will definitely look into a motor mount and take your other points into consideration.

I just did a quick search and for the transmission cooler, the B&M seems to be the right choice. Is this correct?
 

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Correct. You will also want to take a look at the tranny fluid. Not a lot of miles on it so you may be ok. Just keep a eye on it. I started changing mine around 75,000.
 

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I heard that the Fujitas usually dont give CELs also. Is that true?
as with most CAI and the 6, its hit or miss, youll have overly sensitive cars that will throw CELs like crazy no matter what, and others rarely throw CEL no matter what. SO you might get lucky, but you might not, so the easiest way to avoid CELs is the CPE with the MAF ci, but its entirely up to you if that money is worth it for what you want.
 

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I strongly advice installing the tranny cooler first then a tranny drain/refill or flush if you want to keep your car for a long time.
You only have 40k plus miles most likely you dont have much crap/gunk/sludge in your fluids yet so start fresh.
Tranny flush
Oil change using Mobil1 or Royal purple or any Full Syn oil.
If the car was sitting in the garage for a while you may want to consider fushing all the fluids.... dang I still can't believe 40k Miles only on a 2004 ....... wanna trade with me? hehehe
 

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Low mileage 04's seem to be out there - I bought my 2004 6s last year with only 37k miles.

Looks like I need to put a ATX cooler on it - hope its not too hard.

Thanks for all the good advice here.
 

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hey guys i would like to get some more great info on my car other then the great info i got from this aready lol....In the next month or so I will be doing CPE tuanble cold air intake so I don't have a check engine...But also I want to do MSDS headers with full staright pipes to the back....that may give off a CEL right? Also I like the idea of AWR motor mounts are they easy to change? where can i get them from for a good price? also do i need to change the tranny mounts too? Oh by the way mine is a 5spd v6 3.0 not ATX. so let me know if anyone got suggestions for me....oh I got 118k :( but im the second owner and it runs strong and gear feel smooth and right so im not worried. I feel like its brand new so the lady before did something right :)
 
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