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Discussion Starter #1
I know adding horsepower is a common post in the engine forums, but I haven't seen my question posted exactly, so at the risk of being repetitive, here goes...

I've got a 6s coming in April. I'd like to see if I could get about a 15% horsepower boost (about 30-35hp) out of it to knock something off that 6.8 sec 0-60 time. I want your ideas on how YOU would do it given the following criteria (or if it's not possible, I want to hear that too).

-Total cost of improvements: less than $2500
-Install skill needed: average "shade tree" mechanic
-Keep the car emissions-legal
-The improvements don't void the warranty or greatly affect the longevity of the car
-Improvements are nonmoving (no turbos/superchargers/etc...only static components such as exhaust, intake, piggyback chips, etc.)

Is it possible or am I in a dream world?
 

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Reading Topic: Adding Without Subtracting

I can't help you more then to say that you can forget chip tuning the 6. It has some sort of ECU that wount allow it.
 

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Reading Topic: Adding Without Subtracting

Well, i wouldn't count out a chip yet...I read somewhere here that they are working on it..

As for getting 30-35 hp from street-legal bolt-ons it doesn't look like it is possible due to the pre-cats in the headers. An Intake/Cat-Back may be the only way to go and I don't think you will see the numbers you are looking for just from those pieces...

Now if you slap on some rice japanese stickers, maybe a type-r badge, and dont forget the big aluminum wing, that will add at least 30-35 hp :)
 

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Reading Topic: Adding Without Subtracting

Buy the most expensive type of air-filter you can find :D Will add some power and it will sound nice :D

I recoment that you look around in the Duratec Performance part of the forum. One of the sponsors here, Duratec Performance, is devoloping performance parts for the Mazda6. They got some sweet things going on. I'm not sure how it is with the V6 though, as I have understood it it's harder to do things for it, as the engine space available is very limited.
 

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Reading Topic: Adding Without Subtracting

I'm gonna go out on a limb here and say that you have to relax one or more of your last three constraints if you want that kind of power gain. You have to face the fact that cats are restrictive, and your best power gains are made from charging the intake. A low boost turbo or roots type supercharger would probably do little to affect the longevity of the car, but would give you a decent increase in power.

Now, on the other hand, something like a 23 psi Vortech centrifugal supercharger would be a good way to melt your tires at a stoplight 3-4 times before the engine needs a rebuild. :D
 

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Reading Topic: Adding Without Subtracting

Bah just move to an inspections-free state like South Carolina and Minnesota/Michigan(?).

Here in SC, we abandoned our state inspection and emissions program about 6 years ago, yet the laws are still on the books, so the "official" word of big name exhaust shops are that they cannot and will not remove cats, but they do it anyway. Midas removed the ones off my old truck.

My plan is to get some headers (Wondering if the MSDS 3.0L headers work) and just run straight, cat-less pipe back to some MazdaSpeed Sport V6 mufflers. Either them or some Ravin Performance mufflers, Ravin's are awesome, designed with ridges in the muffler instead of vertical baffles or just an empty shell. This eliminates the tin can or fart can sound that most "performance" mufflers give off, even Flowmasters and Borlas give off an empty tone. From my 6-cylinder truck to my brother's Mustang GT, the Ravins give it a nice, deep tone, not empty or farty.
 

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Replying to Topic 'Adding Without Subtracting'

Well, I guess that's a good point on the emissions thing. Funny you should say "move"...as I am moving in a couple of months. Anybody know the emissions requirements for Phoenix AZ? Maybe I could get the headers after all.

It sounds like the general concensus is that, at best, it'll be darn near impossible. I read Nikolas' description of the stage II CAI and also was thinking a cat-back system was a definite. But I'd still have ~$1000 left in my supposed "budget." Just couldn't think of anything else.

Maybe somebody will figure out the ECU thing. I read all the info flying around about the difficulty in chipping the 6, but was hoping it would eventually be overcome. I don't know much about chips and figured there were different ways to do them. For example, instead of a full-chip overhaul, my cousin mentioned that he has a "piggyback" chip in his WRX. He says it doesn't change the wastegate PSI level or anything like that, but instead simply intercepts and modifies the important parameters being reported to the ECU (fuel/air flows, average throttle position, etc etc) and the ECU responds to the modified parameters by giving maximum available engine power. Maybe the 6 ECU wouldn't accept something like that either, though. Like I say, VERY little chip knowledge here.

Anyway, keep any thoughts coming...I appreciate 'em.
 

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Reading Topic: Adding Without Subtracting

Somebody will come up with a way to bump the timing and adjust the fuel maps, it will just take time. 12-18 months from now I would not be suprised to see 20-30+HP available from intake, exhaust (no headers) and ECU mods (on premium gas). We just need to have patience
 

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Replying to Topic 'Adding Without Subtracting'

QUOTE
Originally posted by LBJay


            Somebody will come up with a way to bump the timing and adjust the fuel maps, it will just take time. 12-18 months from now I would not be suprised to see 20-30+HP available from intake, exhaust (no headers) and ECU mods (on premium gas). We just need to have patience[/b]
Good deal. Patience I can handle. I was planning to drive the sucker stock for 5-10k miles anyway before I did anything.
 

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I'm from Phoenix, AZ and as far as emissions and headers go I think that if you can pass the sniffer test with the header then there won't be a problem. The place I go for my emissions tests don't seem to look to throughly under the hood. They just check for vacum leaks or something like that, then check your gas tank/cap and off you go. I was thinking of getting the header and then going in for a test just to check it out but, if the header is going to cost $700 that would be an expensive experiment.
 
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