Mazda 6 Forums banner

1 - 9 of 9 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
165 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I just acquired a box with two large speakers (I think that they're subs) that fit nicely in the back of my 6sw. I've searched and browsed through almost this entire section of the forum and haven't found the answer to this simple question: Is it possible to just connect these speakers to the OEM [non-Bose] HU and have it work properly? If so, can someone give me some direction as to how? If not, what will I need to get them working?
My guess is that they won't work without at least an amp, but I'm not even sure that can be connected to the stock HU. Most people describing their setups seem to have aftermarket HUs.

Thanks for your attention and responses.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
381 Posts
(sigh)
if you have subs, subs need power, amps give power. you need an amp.
I'm sure through your searching you've found posts on hooking an amp to subs. thats your quick answer.
wiring harness > line out converter > amp > subs.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
165 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the answers.
Now a follow-up that will probably get another <sigh> from someone...;)
As far as the wiring harness goes, I'm going to assume that this means that there are no additional speaker outs on the OEM HU- do I need to get this harness at Mazda or is it something that can be purchased at a local mobile audio shop or on eBay? On the two options described, it seems that the wiring harness can either give a speaker level out or a full frequency line-out- does that mean different harnesses or just different connections on a specific harness?
When you talk about wiring harness and line out converters, are you talking about something like this ?
Or am I just splicing into the factory harness and need to get an amp with the appropriate input types?

Sorry if this is so simple- in case you didn't notice, car stereo installs are not "my thing". :doh:
Hopefully it will benefit someone other than me that really has no clue about this kind of stuff.

[this post is getting longer since I'm updating as I find items that I'm curious about]
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
412 Posts
I'll try to answer some questions...

First of all, you will need to run a positive power wire from your battery to the trunk of the car and into the amp you select. There are a few threads on this, so that should be ok.

As for the HU, the first thing I gotta say is if you don't have automatic climate controls, make sure you remove the two screws behind the temperature and "vent-selection" knobs (for lack of a better term..) U can just pull these knobs out to get to the screws. I missed this part and almost broke something, as most of the how-to's on removing the centre console focus on auto climate controls..

You will also need a wiring harness diagram for what the different colored wires are that plug into the factory HU. I didn't use an aftermarket harness, I just spliced all the wires from the exisiting harness. Just make sure all your connections are really well done if you don't want to re-do them later on. There might be a way to do this with a harness... but I don't know, it would cost more anyways.

What I did from this point is I tapped into the front left and right channels and sent them into a Line Out Converter ( LOC ). As well as tapping the remote wire for a power-on signal to the amp.

From here, I ran RCA wires from the LOC and the remote wire to the trunk and into the amp.

At this point, all car audio installs are pretty much the same and depend on what you've selected in terms of speaker and amp, so there should be lots of resources on this.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
165 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Perfect response.
Thank you very much.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
418 Posts
I would definately try to find a local friend to help you.... the fact that you didnt know if they are subs or not and thought you wouldnt need an amplifer shows you defintely havent dabbled in car audio before.
Not 'flaming' just saying you need guidance before u try anything

http://www.ehow.com/how_5829_wire-car-stereo.html
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
165 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
I would definately try to find a local friend to help you.... the fact that you didnt know if they are subs or not and thought you wouldnt need an amplifer shows you defintely havent dabbled in car audio before.
Not 'flaming' just saying you need guidance before u try anything

http://www.ehow.com/how_5829_wire-car-stereo.html
[/b]
Not taken as a flame. You are correct, I have very little knowledge about car stereos.
To be honest, I'm still not exactly sure what I have. They are two very large speakers in a trapezoidal box. Speakers say "MTX Audio" inside and the box is made by "QLogic". Speakers are 13" [measured to the inside edge of the cone and/or outside edge of the external grill] in diameter and the box is 30.25" wide, carpeted and not ported.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
418 Posts
Ya i mean they are definately subs... should take one out to see if the model number is on it... because the values of the subs (wattage and impedence) determine what amp would be best to use.

also to tell about how old they are.... if they are all black they are pretty old, if they are silver with a few raised lines in them they are a little old, and if they are smooth silver they are newer models...


So i guess ill kind of answer your original question and maybe give you a little insight(beats doing my engineering hw)

NO, you cant hook your subs directly up to your stock headunit. A headunit (cd player) is used to power the factory speakers and they usually dont make more then 30watts per channel.
Any decent sub needs at least 150 watts to make it sound good, and high end subs requite around 500-1000 watts. It IS possible to hook them up to your cd player but they wont be loud at all and will play all frequences (bass and treble) THis is not recommended.

You will need to purchase and install an amplifer. An amplifer is an electronic component that takes a signal and amplifies it (makes it bigger). Installing an amplifer requires power wires and signal wires to be ran in you car, from the cd player and the battery to the trunk.
An amplifer has to be matched up to the requirements of your subs to make the relationship efficent and safe. You can throw any amp at any sub and it will work, but it might be damaging or a waste of power. (this is due to ohms[resistance] watts[power] and stability[ability to handle ohms and power])

So to install an amp you will need signal. This signal will come from your headunit. I have a 2003 non-bose and there is no pre-amp out put (RCA cables). So to get signal you need to tap into the high-level output (speaker wires). To do this you need to go behind your dash and tap into the wires going from your headunit to the stock speakers. Tap in means to strip the wire back and add in your 'tap'. You will not cut the wire because this will kill the connection to your factory speakers. Depending on whether the amp you buy has 'speaker level inputs' you might need a LOC (line out converter). A LOC converts speaker level (high level) signals to low (rca cable level). So if your amp has speaker level inputs, the amp does this step and a LOC is unnecessary.
The convention with our cars is to tap into the front outputs from the cd player, this is because the rear signals arent pure, they are EQ'ed by the cd player and sound ike crap. So after you find which wires to tap you need to run them to your trunk

Next you will need power, this will require a wire (4 or 8 gauge) coming from your battery to your trunk. This will require getting through the firewall somehow and hiding the wire until it gets to the amp. This will give your amp the power it needs to amplify the signal from the head unit.

Next you will need a remote. A remote wire is a wire that is on when the car or cd player is on, and is off when the car is off. This tells the amp when to be on and which not to be so that it will not drain your battery when the car is not on. This wire can be gotten from a lot of places, for example our Cig lighters follow this format (on when on and off when off). Also there is a ACC wire that turns on the cd player in the same manor, you can tap into either of these to give the 'remote' signal for your amp. This wire will have to be routed to the trunk also.

Lastly you will need to hook up your amp in the trunk and then take the output from your amp and plug it into the terminal cup on your box. There are many setting on the amplifer you can mess with to change how it performs. These setting are filters which limit which types of sound gets passed through (full - low - high) and there are frequency cuts offs for each type. Also there are level controls (not necessary volume but it seems that way), these controls are used to match the input signal power to the amp so that it produces that it is supposed to. There may also be bass boost and other knobs.

Hope this helped, i just kind of rambled but it should give you the story of how to hook up a sub and amp in a car.......
 
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
Top