A few more lbs.
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considering this is a fairly new platform, there is really only one way to go about finding that.
start doing mods one at a time, raising hp to include with it engine management. get it on a dyno and once you reach a part failure, make note, and there you go. simple as one two three
start doing mods one at a time, raising hp to include with it engine management. get it on a dyno and once you reach a part failure, make note, and there you go. simple as one two three
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440 Posts
The clutch is the least of your worries
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59 Posts
A fried clutch can cost hundreds and cause several days of downTime.
Blowing your motor because you added too much boost can cost thousands and downTime can be weeks.
Adding a lot of extra power without proper planning (i.e. extra 5psi boost) will more likely result in a dead motor than a dead clutch. If I had a choice I'd say blow the clutch, but you're more likely to blow the motor.
What really bakes my noodle is for the guys whose speed6 is their daily driver and still have six years of payments to look forward to.
I'll let others innovate and take the risk of potentially causing that much damage to a car that will probably void its warranty. I'll stick to doing the easy mods that don't require a weekend project. Guess I'm getting too old and a little wiser with my money.
Blowing your motor because you added too much boost can cost thousands and downTime can be weeks.
Adding a lot of extra power without proper planning (i.e. extra 5psi boost) will more likely result in a dead motor than a dead clutch. If I had a choice I'd say blow the clutch, but you're more likely to blow the motor.
What really bakes my noodle is for the guys whose speed6 is their daily driver and still have six years of payments to look forward to.
I'll let others innovate and take the risk of potentially causing that much damage to a car that will probably void its warranty. I'll stick to doing the easy mods that don't require a weekend project. Guess I'm getting too old and a little wiser with my money.
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1,308 Posts
My speed6 is my daily driver... I got it paid of though =) So the 1000's I save in interest... go to mods... Though the mods I do have little to NO risk of failure...
Intake is very safe.. BOV is BETTER than stock as for being safe on the engine.... Downpipe is somewhat iffy.. though once I get it fully installed properly.. and smog tested... I might classify it as safe...
Stereo mods are safe... though they rattle the car loose over the years...
Boost controllers... Engine Management... and such are for the hardcore ... wanna-be-warranty-less fellas... Once they prove 10,000 miles on that stuff is safe... the rest can jump in... like that other guy said =)
Intake is very safe.. BOV is BETTER than stock as for being safe on the engine.... Downpipe is somewhat iffy.. though once I get it fully installed properly.. and smog tested... I might classify it as safe...
Stereo mods are safe... though they rattle the car loose over the years...
Boost controllers... Engine Management... and such are for the hardcore ... wanna-be-warranty-less fellas... Once they prove 10,000 miles on that stuff is safe... the rest can jump in... like that other guy said =)
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380 Posts
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Do youself a favor "Sic Speed" Don't turn the boost up 5 psi :nana:
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692 Posts
First off:
Our stock block, rods, etc is VERY stout. Just to give you a reference, the stock rods on a 4g63 are toothpicks compared to ours. 400whp should be easy.
Secondly: FORGET ABOUT OVERBOOSTING! The ecu monitors the MAP (manifold absolute pressure) and will retard spark rev limit with an overboost condition until the MAP goes down to stock. Its actually in the manual, and its a constantly monitored code that does not trigger a CEL.
Overboosting with such an overworked turbo is a bad idea anyway! That turbo is really at its limit providing us the power it does now. Its most likely at the limit of its efficiency and overboosting it will only cause you to overheat the air being pushed through it, thus lowering hp by having a hotter intake charge. Now, its ok to use an MBC to get it to HOLD the same amount of boost for more RPMs, but, increasing the overall boost pressure is a bad bad idea.
Honestly, running the same amount of boost with the bigger, more efficient turbo will in itself increase hp by lowering intake charge temps. Same boost psi, same hp over a wider powerband and lower intake temps due to increased efficiency = increased power and reduced quarter mile times AND will be safer for the car in the long run!
Our stock block, rods, etc is VERY stout. Just to give you a reference, the stock rods on a 4g63 are toothpicks compared to ours. 400whp should be easy.
Secondly: FORGET ABOUT OVERBOOSTING! The ecu monitors the MAP (manifold absolute pressure) and will retard spark rev limit with an overboost condition until the MAP goes down to stock. Its actually in the manual, and its a constantly monitored code that does not trigger a CEL.
Overboosting with such an overworked turbo is a bad idea anyway! That turbo is really at its limit providing us the power it does now. Its most likely at the limit of its efficiency and overboosting it will only cause you to overheat the air being pushed through it, thus lowering hp by having a hotter intake charge. Now, its ok to use an MBC to get it to HOLD the same amount of boost for more RPMs, but, increasing the overall boost pressure is a bad bad idea.
Honestly, running the same amount of boost with the bigger, more efficient turbo will in itself increase hp by lowering intake charge temps. Same boost psi, same hp over a wider powerband and lower intake temps due to increased efficiency = increased power and reduced quarter mile times AND will be safer for the car in the long run!
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