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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well, my first real mechanical issue not caused by me since I bought it in '06.

Has anyone else had experience with their A/C going out? I'm going to guess its the magnetic clutch. It used to make a racket.


My warranty is out of course. I'm going to see if I have any codes before I take it to the dealer.


:swearin: Just in time for another 100 degree heat spell in socal. :swearin:
 

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sounds like some swampy nuts to me...

bummer...
 
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QUOTE (franchize @ Sep 18 2009, 11:02 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=1601930
I'm going to guess its the magnetic clutch. It used to make a racket.[/b]
Is the compressor engaging when you turn on the A/C? A quick check under the hood and you should be able to see.

If the compressor is running, then my guess would be a leak in the A/C lines somewhere.
 

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this happened to my friend. The bolt in the center of the compressor wheel had backed out. It's on the main belt and i you can reach your finger in there from under the car to make sure it's still there. I'm sure he'll post more when he sees this thread.
 

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this happened to me recently... on the way to work one day I had cold air on the way back I didn't.

AC/Heater system still blows air and turns on and off fine but does not get cold. I will have to check that bolt out as well, sounds like that could be the problem. I cant imagine that I lost refrigerant that quickly. If anyone has pics that would be helpful.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
QUOTE (masskaos @ Sep 18 2009, 08:17 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=1601933
sounds like some swampy nuts to me...

bummer...[/b]
yes swampy nuts and monkey butt if there is any traffic.. YIKES


QUOTE (jd42 @ Sep 18 2009, 08:41 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=1601938
Is the compressor engaging when you turn on the A/C? A quick check under the hood and you should be able to see.

If the compressor is running, then my guess would be a leak in the A/C lines somewhere.[/b]

The compressor engages. For it to leak, it would have to of been a catastrophic failure. It went from working just fine, to NADA. It's basically a hair dryer now.
 

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check your pollen filter - my dealer regassed my air -con to find that it was the pollen filter clogged full of cr*p





The compressor engages. For it to leak, it would have to of been a catastrophic failure. It went from working just fine, to NADA. It's basically a hair dryer now.
[/quote]
 

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Here's looking down the passenger side of the engine bay. The bolt your interested in is on the bottom pulley, pretty much in dead center of the picture.


Here's a close up of the pulley:


You can barely see the hole in the center of the wheel, this is where joel's bolt came out. His bolt was completely gone. I don't remember the size of the bolt, cause we were in mid-bbq and i just gave him a couple metrics that i thought would fit. One of them did.

GL
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
well after all of that it looks to be a leak somewhere

i dumped a can of refrigerant and it got cold



ill have to take it to a shop to get the system purged and filled properly once i find/fix the leak
 

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Guys, a quick question on this. Is the normal mode of operation of the triangular piece with the magnets that you can rotate it with your fingers? Also, when the car is running, is it normal for the triangular piece to stay still?

I thought I had a problem with this bolt being loose, got in there and wrench tightened it, while using a bar to ensure the piece didn't rotate... it didn't really move too much as far as I can tell, and the AC is still blowing ambient.

Just wondering if what is happening above is normal.
 

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Take a look at the hose that goes from the compressor to the condenser. Mine was leaking and it was obvious... A/c oil all over it. It was about $80 in parts. Install the hose then rent a vacuum pump and gauges from autozone $250 but you get it all back. Total repair cost should be less than $150 if its the same hose.
 

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Guys, a quick question on this. Is the normal mode of operation of the triangular piece with the magnets that you can rotate it with your fingers? Also, when the car is running, is it normal for the triangular piece to stay still?

I thought I had a problem with this bolt being loose, got in there and wrench tightened it, while using a bar to ensure the piece didn't rotate... it didn't really move too much as far as I can tell, and the AC is still blowing ambient.

Just wondering if what is happening above is normal.
Yes these things are normal until the ac is turned on. Then the "triangle piece" should cycle on and off.
 

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David, thanks for the quick reply. So if the clutch piece there ie "triangular piece" isn't cycling on and off is that an indication that the compressor is dead or just that I need to fix the leak/vacuum/recharge?
 

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The system may be low ( needs x amount of pressure to turn on to save the compressor) or the field coil may be bad (electro magnet they activates the clutch) or something electrical is not letting the compressor get the "on" signal.
 

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I have a Mazda 3, 2007 and around 2 months ago the A/C stopped working. I checked fuses (of A/C) and they are good. What I notices is that when I turn on the A/C, the "triangle piece" is not cycling on and off is just stay still.

Although some times when I turn on my a/c it works (for a few minutes though, then stops working). Can someone help me here? what do you think guys?
 

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I have a Mazda 3, 2007 and around 2 months ago the A/C stopped working. I checked fuses (of A/C) and they are good. What I notices is that when I turn on the A/C, the "triangle piece" is not cycling on and off is just stay still.

Although some times when I turn on my a/c it works (for a few minutes though, then stops working). Can someone help me here? what do you think guys?
You are on Mazda 6 club..... try mazda3club.com
 

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If the cause is refrigerant or leaks, diagnosing the refrigerant pressure switch is your best bet.

Magnetic clutch will not engage if any of the following is problematic:
* Magnetic clutch fuse is blown
* Malfunction in PCM A/C cut control system
* Malfunction in climate control unit (the controls)
* Malfunction in refrigerant pressure switch
* Malfunction in PCM (A/C signal)
* Malfunction in PCM (IG1 signal)
* Malfunction in A/C compressor
* Malfunction in A/C relay
* Malfunction in evaporator temperature sensor
 

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My schrader valve was stuck open on the low side and it leaked all of my refrigerant out. I still have a leak behind the dash, but putting a can of the R134 with the synthetic oil which comes with the stop leak stuff from advance auto seems to be holding, so my leak behind the dash is probably not too bad. 8 hours of labor to fix that leak...not happening anytime soon, lol...
 

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locate the low side pressure switch.
disconnect.
place paper clip between the two terminals on the connector(not switch) to complete circuit.
turn on a/c.
if compressor now spins, you have a leak.
I had one, and it occurred at the line underneath the factory air box.
the line runs into a connection on the frame horn and was leaking at the connector profusely. replaced the seal from a repair kit I found at rock auto, and a/c has been
cold ever since
 

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I replaced my low pressure hose also as a result of leak. Refrigerant pressure switch 'reported' the fault as beyond nominal range in pressure difference. The OEM hose cost a pretty penny. The part is around $250. FYI, My car has 65k on the odo.

Make sure you vacuum out the remaining refrigerant thoroughly as moisture may have leaked in there, which may become corrosive <-- read this somewhere concerning mobile A/C repair.
 
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