Mazda 6 Forums banner

41 - 60 of 69 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
560 Posts
Discussion Starter #41
Trash it?!

Find someone with a pickup, have it dropped in the bed, rent an engine crane, put it in your garage or wherever you can bum the space (it's not very big) on a few wood blocks for support and bag all the openings so moisture doesn't get in them.

Then find someone willing to give you something for it. Hell, the cylinder head is worth money as are any of the accessories left on it -- almost-certainly more than it will cost you to get it back to your house. If nothing else I'd disassemble it, bag the usable parts (e.g. rods, pistons, head, etc) and sell those. This stuff is worth real money (a cylinder head in good shape, complete with valves and such is worth a couple hundred bucks all on its own!)
I just don’t see myself mounting it in my garage and having it sit there. I’m definitely not familiar with taking apart an engine, not familiar with the sites to sell engine parts like that and not wanting to deal with figuring out how to package and sell them. But I’m willing to ship the engine to someone who wants to. If someone is capable of benefiting off it PM me. Otherwise it’s most likely going to meet its demise sooner than later.
 
Joined
·
484 Posts
You do understand how much money you're going to lose "trashing" your practically brand new car, right?

950$ for a new engine is a steal. Financially speaking by far the most reasonable thing for you to do is swap the new engine in and drive it in a way that wont blow the bearing.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
560 Posts
Discussion Starter #43
You do understand how much money you're going to lose "trashing" your practically brand new car, right?

950$ for a new engine is a steal. Financially speaking by far the most reasonable thing for you to do is swap the new engine in and drive it in a way that wont blow the bearing.
5 yrs is hardly “brand new” but yeah I obviously have to hope the new engine isn’t a lemon bc I do enjoy a paid off car. And I would be willing to bet I drive this no harder than most others on this forum. Again, it’s my daily driver. I’m not tracking this or anything. I’ll update if anything changes re: engine findings.
 
Joined
·
484 Posts
5 yrs is hardly “brand new” but yeah I obviously have to hope the new engine isn’t a lemon bc I do enjoy a paid off car. And I would be willing to bet I drive this no harder than most others on this forum. Again, it’s my daily driver. I’m not tracking this or anything. I’ll update if anything changes re: engine findings.
If you drove it hard for the first 3000 miles (specifically reaching redline repeatedly in a short period of time) that right there is almost for certain why you experienced a blown rod bearing.

You can drive the car more reserved when it is brand new (a full throttle pull to redline here or there isn't going to hurt anything) but once this 3000 mile period is over, you can completely shit on the car as hard as you want for 200,000 miles and she won't ever miss a beat.

My suggestion for you? change your oil more often. I'm sure you'll fare better if you stick to a thicker oil while you're at it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
652 Posts
If you do end up buying a new car, it would definitely be wise to dump the factory oil and fill up with 80w90 gear oil. Because after all, the thicker the oil the better the protection.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
790 Posts
If you drove it hard for the first 3000 miles (specifically reaching redline repeatedly in a short period of time) that right there is almost for certain why you experienced a blown rod bearing.

You can drive the car more reserved when it is brand new (a full throttle pull to redline here or there isn't going to hurt anything) but once this 3000 mile period is over, you can completely shit on the car as hard as you want for 200,000 miles and she won't ever miss a beat.

My suggestion for you? change your oil more often. I'm sure you'll fare better if you stick to a thicker oil while you're at it.

From start to finish, I have never read a post that was so full of BS.
 
Joined
·
484 Posts
From start to finish, I have never read a post that was so full of BS.
@Byakuya literally made thoroughly detailed thread covering this topic. He. along with tickerguy are two users with examples of well sealed motors otherwise indicated by metal wear levels inside the engine oil. Lets turn to them first and see how they drove during the first couple thousand miles before immediately calling BS.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
17,214 Posts
I think you're both wrong :)

@idrive -
1) Please be more respectful regardless of your predisposed notion of certain members.
2) Please don't call out an entire post when you and I both know not everything in there is incorrect.
3) Easing the engine in for the first 3000 is definitely the recommended way of going if you want your engine to last a while. That's what I did and I'll do it until I stop getting my cars into the hundreds of thousands of miles without issues.

@MazdaMoisturization -
1) I agree that easing into the car for the first 3k is best practices.
2) Beating the snot out of a car will NEVER be good for it. Waiting until you've broken it in a bit is helpful, but we both know that if you trash on a car repeatedly, you're going to wear it down more than treating it right. WOT once in a while is a good thing, but continued abuse will ruin it early.
3) Please stop trying to force your thicker oil notions on people after the members of this forum have repeatedly proven you otherwise.


If ya'll can't have civil conversations on here, then you can't have them at all. You've all been warned.
 
Joined
·
484 Posts
If you do end up buying a new car, it would definitely be wise to dump the factory oil and fill up with 80w90 gear oil. Because after all, the thicker the oil the better the protection.
L
I think you're both wrong :)

@idrive -
1) Please be more respectful regardless of your predisposed notion of certain members.
2) Please don't call out an entire post when you and I both know not everything in there is incorrect.
3) Easing the engine in for the first 3000 is definitely the recommended way of going if you want your engine to last a while. That's what I did and I'll do it until I stop getting my cars into the hundreds of thousands of miles without issues.

@MazdaMoisturization -
1) I agree that easing into the car for the first 3k is best practices.
2) Beating the snot out of a car will NEVER be good for it. Waiting until you've broken it in a bit is helpful, but we both know that if you trash on a car repeatedly, you're going to wear it down more than treating it right. WOT once in a while is a good thing, but continued abuse will ruin it early.
3) Please stop trying to force your thicker oil notions on people after the members of this forum have repeatedly proven you otherwise.


If ya'll can't have civil conversations on here, then you can't have them at all. You've all been warned.
Clearly there are two different approaches when it comes to oil weight so we will leave it at that, but in this guys case it might not be a bad idea to mention it.

And, well, you can break in an engine much sooner than 3000 miles by shitting on the motor and forcing the tolerances to wear in prematurely. Where do you think the metal shavings at the bottom of the oil pan and in the filter come from after your first oil change. Why not everyone believes this I have no idea... EVERYTHING on the car that moves or is mechanical must be broken in with a specific period of normal driving. I've heard that an automatic transmission needs 12,000 miles or even more to fully break in. Speaking of which - many reported failures with this gearbox on CX-5 models. looks like the ATX doesn't like the added weight/ worse aerodynamics. I am sure these failures are associated with how it was broken in.

However, after the break-in stage, you can be pretty hard on the engine for quite a long time if maintained correctly. Once she's sealed in properly you'll be hard pressed to cause any oil consumption - ever.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
It would be very interesting to find out what exactly went wrong.
After reading about the water crossing I'm going to guess that a very small amount of moisture via condensation and or the crossing may have contaminated the oil and fried the bearing.
Did you ever get a look at the engine oil post "click"?

It's one of the most bulletproof motors I've ever owned. I've driven VW Bugs and 22R Toyota's and I owned a Buick that had the Stars Wars Buick V8. The Skyactive ranks right in there. I drive my 6 like I stole it and it just keeps going. I still haven't changed the plugs yet. I'll probably flush the transmission before I change the plugs.
Hi, I just changed plugs in my '14 at 90K. Used Bosch 9621 Double Iridium. No trans service yet. Please post how that goes, who does it, and the correct fluid to use. Thx!
 
Joined
·
484 Posts
Hi, I just changed plugs in my '14 at 90K. Used Bosch 9621 Double Iridium. No trans service yet. Please post how that goes, who does it, and the correct fluid to use. Thx!
For Japanese cars I recommend using NGK. Japanese plugs work better with japanese cars as far as I have heard.

For the transmission fluid service, I would ask the transmission shop to drop the pan first. This lets more of the old fluid drain out. You could clean the bottom of the existing pan and reseal it, but I would just place a new transmission pan in there. Don't forget to carefully clean the mating surface and use a gasket paste to avoid leaks.

I am going to be using Redline D4 ATF fluid for my upcoming transmission service.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
560 Posts
Discussion Starter #53
Told the shop to go ahead and change out the clutch. Figured engine is out so might as well seeing as how I’m going to drive it till it won’t drive anymore after this engine is put in. My buddy is picking up the old engine tomorrow or Thursday at latest so I should know more about what cause the failure prob by beg of next week. Do y’all think that was over cautious to replace the clutch? I just don’t need anymore reason for my daily driver to be out of commission after this debacle.....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,051 Posts
80,000 miles? Depends on you I guess. I've got nearly 200k on mine and it's still OK, and my kid has my '03 Jetta coming up on 300k miles on the OE clutch and THAT one is still ok too.

But, the clutch isn't where all the money is on that job -- it's the labor which is invariably a pain in the neck, so...... yeah, I might do it while I had it out. I'd probably look at the pressure plate and try to get some sort of idea how much friction material was left. The other thing with these cars is that they have a DMF and those do wear out too.... all things considered if the clutch itself isn't too expensive (I've not priced one for these cars yet) I'd certainly consider changing it while I had it apart.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
73 Posts
Sorry but mine has 95k miles I had it since 35k. Do Uber with it sometimes. The engine is still running strong. I abuse the crap out of it sometimes. I use 5w-30 hm synthetic Pennzoil oil. I have 2015 Mazda 6 sport automatic 95,000 miles. The transmission is running strong with no problems. I did change the transmission oil once without filter and added a bit of red lubegard in there and no problem. Maintaned right this car is pretty reliable.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
73 Posts
There are people on this forum with 150,000 and up miles on this same engine with no problems. Some even at 250,000 miles.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
560 Posts
Discussion Starter #57
There are people on this forum with 150,000 and up miles on this same engine with no problems. Some even at 250,000 miles.
Annnnd then there’s me....? I kept up w oil changes etc....idk man. All I can say is if my buddy gets into the old engine and says it didn’t need replacing then off to small claims court we go...will know by next week.
@tickerguy their is no clutch kit for our 3rd gen thus far so they ordered parts separate...I’m guessing it was around 7-800 for the parts? But will know when I see the bill. One thing is for sure I will use heavier weighted oil for the remainder of its life just to be safe.
 

·
Registered
2015 Mazda 6 Sport
Joined
·
666 Posts
Sorry but mine has 95k miles I had it since 35k. Do Uber with it sometimes. The engine is still running strong. I abuse the crap out of it sometimes. I use 5w-30 hm synthetic Pennzoil oil. I have 2015 Mazda 6 sport automatic 95,000 miles. The transmission is running strong with no problems. I did change the transmission oil once without filter and added a bit of red lubegard in there and no problem. Maintaned right this car is pretty reliable.
I have the exact same model as you, what maintenance have you done since 35k to now? I'm asking because I'd love for this car to go 100k+ as I want to get a good life out of it!
 
Joined
·
484 Posts
Annnnd then there’s me....? I kept up w oil changes etc....idk man. All I can say is if my buddy gets into the old engine and says it didn’t need replacing then off to small claims court we go...will know by next week.
@tickerguy their is no clutch kit for our 3rd gen thus far so they ordered parts separate...I’m guessing it was around 7-800 for the parts? But will know when I see the bill. One thing is for sure I will use heavier weighted oil for the remainder of its life just to be safe.
I suspect you may want to tone your driving style down a few notches when you get the new engine swapped in..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
560 Posts
Discussion Starter #60 (Edited)
I suspect you may want to tone your driving style down a few notches when you get the new engine swapped in..
Didn’t buy a “zoom-zoom” in a manual transmission to dial down my daily driving style. If the car can’t handle what I’ve given it then Mazda needs to lose the slogan. Sorry, but don’t agree with your recommendation at all. Again, I’m not tracking this car. It is my daily driver!!
 
41 - 60 of 69 Posts
Top