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To claim.that American engines are as well built as Japanese is simply outrageous. They are built like absolute GARBAGE. The 1
5T in the Hondas are simply an example of a brand which has not designed a new engine for almost 20 years and is just now getting into the world of Turbo DI tech...
The venerable Small Block Chevy had a nearly 50 year run...
 

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  1. But seriously though, what else could have possibly caused an engine failure on such a solid motor with such low mileage?
    Very literally thousands of things can cause an engine failure, GetInline. You do know that there are hundreds of parts and sensors working under very high pressure in and around any given engine, correct? One or more of these parts or sensors could have been a dud. Unless you have personally torn this engine down, you can't say with any more certainty than the rest of us what might have caused it.
 

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To claim.that American engines are as well built as Japanese is simply outrageous. They are built like absolute GARBAGE. The 1
5T in the Hondas are simply an example of a brand which has not designed a new engine for almost 20 years and is just now getting into the world of Turbo DI tech...
Wow ! Relax ! The US "big 3" combined sold over 7 million units last year. If they all had "garbage" motors you wouldn't see such numbers. For every Tundra/Taco with 500k miles on them you'll probably find twice the number of F150s/Chevy C/Ks with similar miles. All Japanese manufacturers including Toyota,Subaru,Honda have had their share of lemons, so stop generalizing and stereotyping.
 

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Are you really that s****d that you believe a Japanese built engine is so superior that it cannot have a failure at 80K? Including when the correct, recommended weight oil is used? You really think that anything manufactured by man is perfect? Out of 100K engine bearings produced one of them can't be out of tolerance?

Seriously, grow up.


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I never stated such a thing, at all. In my opinion Japanese vehicles/engine/ anything else they build for that matter are designed tested and assembled to an incredibly high standard of precision and quality. This means that the chances of an engine failure are LOWER. I never said it's completely impossible.

@tickerguy has high mileage on his OV Tuned 2.5L which is allegedly driven hard like the engine which failed at 80K, but according to his oil sample reports, the levels of worn metals inside the engine signify a tight well sealed motor which very likely was driven moderately when new - meaning the engine is perfectly sealed and as healthy as can be. In the case of an abused new engine, 5w40 becomes rather critical to help provide more cushioning between the wearing engine parts. Again, not totally necessary in the case of tickers engine.



  1. Very literally thousands of things can cause an engine failure, GetInline. You do know that there are hundreds of parts and sensors working under very high pressure in and around any given engine, correct? One or more of these parts or sensors could have been a dud. Unless you have personally torn this engine down, you can't say with any more certainty than the rest of us what might have caused it.
Obviously you are 100% correct, but considering the history of this guys engine, if he or whoever originally owned the car first did lots of full throttle acceleration early on in the cars life, say before roughly 3000miles and he was experiencing moderate levels of oil consumption that right there is a clear indication that it was owner neglect and not simply a defect within the motor. If he used 5W40 he probably could have gotten away with complete engine failure for much longer. Would that address the root cause of the issue? No. like you said, many different factors potentially mean i'm wrong, but considering how long these engines can last, I'm extremely skeptical of how the first /owner treated the thing.
 

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@MazdaMoisturization -- Cut the crap with the continual recommendation that people do things that are (1) outside of the manufacturer's recommendations anywhere said vehicle is sold and (2) if followed and you have a failure like this not only will you not get help from Mazda out of warranty if in-warranty you will get denied and wind up eating it.

A bearing failure, if in-warranty, will result in the manufacturer demanding proof that you (1) changed oil and filter on-schedule and (2) that both oil and filter met their specs. No, you don't have to use their service, and no, you don't have to use their parts either but if your failure is plausibly connected to lubrication, and in this case it absolutely IS, you had better be able to prove you complied with the manufacturer's requirements for consumables in that regard or you are going to swallow.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
So just to clarify a few of the responses. I am original owner. I kept up w more freq oil changes at first as those of you recommended on these forums (I was a member prior to receiving my mazda). Mazda dealership performed those (free bc of a delivery screw up).
My guy at the local shop asked who tuned it. He said it mayyyyybe could have come from that. OVT is reputable and I do trust Mat. I doubt that had anything to do w it especially considering how many others here tuned at the same time I did right when Mat introduced himself to us. I did tell Mat what happened. He asked the cause of the failure but hasn鈥檛 had anything else to say after my response.
I will likely inform Mazda but doubt they will care after they find out all the mods I did. Lol.
And final question, I鈥檓 getting a replacement dropped in. 64k miles on it. $950. Prob gonna be in it close to 3k w including car rental, labor. It is paid off next month. So question is, get rid of it ASAP? Or keep it and hope I have no issues for a few more years in order to enjoy no car payments.
 

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@ballsy Keep it.

$950 for a replacement engine? I'd do that all day long; I assumed the cost of a replacement (used) would be materially higher (like double) that.

Were it mine I would have fixed the original engine myself provided the crank and saddles were not involved. If it's a main pulling the shells and replacing them is not a big deal AT ALL. I'd pull all the other caps and make sure the other bearings look ok; if they don't then they ALL get changed. Cost of that exam if the rest are ok is a bunch of bolts as all of them are one-time-use (TTY.) If it was a rod bearing then the piston has to come out and that means the head has to come off, which is a pain in the neck time wise but in terms of parts it's not very expensive. However, at that point I'd definitely buy the $950 engine, pull mine and put the $950 one in the car, stick mine on a stand (much easier to work on it that way since you can get to all points on it easily), go through it, FIX IT, and then wrap it up and either hang onto it or sell it and get more than the $950 (probably close to double that having been gone through, especially if it's got the accessories on it.) None of that process requires anything other than a decent toolbox (e.g. torque wrenches, etc), a way to lift and replace the engine (which you can either rent or rig up) and attention to cleanliness.

The is another possibility when it comes to the original failure -- SkyActiv engines have a very interesting and unique oil system in that there is an electrically-controlled pressure control valve in the system rather than the usual design that has only a mechanical pressure-relief valve at the oil pump. This is one of the reasons you need to use a SkyActiv-specific oil filter on these engines -- "anything that fits" is begging for trouble as the system is designed for very specific filter characteristics. There's a bulletin on this valve potentially sticking due to debris resulting in anomalous oil pressure readings if it does here: https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2015/SB-10105634-2532.pdf

Improper oil pressure from any cause is begging for very rapid bearing destruction; whether you're guaranteed to throw a code if this happens so you get fair warning I don't know. Not having an actual oil pressure gauge on the dash doesn't help in detecting that sort of problem one bit and pressure below design minimums with the engine under load will almost-always immediately damage or destroy bearings. If you were using third-party filters that might be the root cause -- there are third-party filters available that are correctly set up for these engines but I've never used them since the OE ones are of high quality and I can get them locally from the stealer at a very reasonable cost as they sell them on a "buy 3 get 4" basis out their parts window. For $6ish each and the stealer being on the way to my favorite watering hole and thus a 5 minute detour when I need more filters I ain't playing the "save a dollar" game over OE when I know the OE filters are of excellent quality backed up with my UOA history.

I would get the part number off the filter on the engine right now (and/or off your receipts for oil changes) and see if it's a SkyActiv-specific part. It had better be because if it isn't your "mechanic" that has been doing the oil changes likely owes you that replacement engine out of his pocket.

I can't see how the tune has anything to do with it; there's no plausible way for it to be involved. What IS possible is that you managed to get water into the crankcase from the deep water incident and that resulted in corrosion in the failed bearing. That's why I'm very interested in some images of the failure; it's usually very obvious exactly why the bearing failed once you get a look at it.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
I hear ya. Thanks for the input. Of all the people I know through this forum yours is one I take as expert. I will ask them about the OEM filter. I did ask what they plan on doing w the engine and he said they just trash it. I would have thought some parts place would want to buy it...but I guess there isn鈥檛 a big enough need for that to make transport worth it? If anyone here wants it feel free to make me an offer and can ship it to you. It would be nice for insurance to entertain the thought of water getting into the crank case. But would have to do leg work for that.
One of My patients is a mechanic so he Hooked up his connection with getting the used engine.
I鈥檝e been drooling over the Genesis G70 3.3 twin turbo lately. Part of me reallllly wants to just sell this and use that towards down payment on one.
 

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So how did you treat the thing when it was brand new like under 3000 miles and in general up until the point the bearing failed?

City? Highway? How many miles before oil change? Did u drive gently while the engines warming up? Did you experience any oil consumption at all? If so, how much roughly?
 

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I hear ya. Thanks for the input. Of all the people I know through this forum yours is one I take as expert. I will ask them about the OEM filter. I did ask what they plan on doing w the engine and he said they just trash it. I would have thought some parts place would want to buy it...but I guess there isn鈥檛 a big enough need for that to make transport worth it? If anyone here wants it feel free to make me an offer and can ship it to you. It would be nice for insurance to entertain the thought of water getting into the crank case. But would have to do leg work for that.
One of My patients is a mechanic so he Hooked up his connection with getting the used engine.
I鈥檝e been drooling over the Genesis G70 3.3 twin turbo lately. Part of me reallllly wants to just sell this and use that towards down payment on one.
You have a manual 6 right? I would support your purchase of the 2.0 G70 with the manual. I've not driven either, but I've read that the 2.0 actually is more fun to drive since it handles a lot better since it's 200 lbs. lighter over the front wheels. Obviously the 3.3 is much quicker. But I can't support selling a manual to get into an auto. Not that it matters to anyone, haha.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
You have a manual 6 right? I would support your purchase of the 2.0 G70 with the manual. I've not driven either, but I've read that the 2.0 actually is more fun to drive since it handles a lot better since it's 200 lbs. lighter over the front wheels. Obviously the 3.3 is much quicker. But I can't support selling a manual to get into an auto. Not that it matters to anyone, haha.
I do, but I can鈥檛 handle being forced into so many downgrades in order to continue having a MT vehicle. Plus the wife refuses to learn how to drive one so it occasionally poses logistical issues. I鈥檇 prefer 365hp and all the nice options and accept paddle shifters over the 2.0 MT.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
So how did you treat the thing when it was brand new like under 3000 miles and in general up until the point the bearing failed?

City? Highway? How many miles before oil change? Did u drive gently while the engines warming up? Did you experience any oil consumption at all? If so, how much roughly?
Mix city/hwy. 80k in 5 yrs so roughly 15-16k/yr. I鈥檝e never tracked it. It鈥檚 my daily driver. Yes I drive it hard bc it鈥檚 supposed to be haha. I bought it over other nicer AT cars w more HP bc it was fun to drive. I don鈥檛 change my own oil so not sure on consumption. Can鈥檛 see how anything I did would have caused this. It would take extreme negligence from what I understand about these engines. But apparently I don鈥檛 understand much 馃槀
 

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I do, but I can鈥檛 handle being forced into so many downgrades in order to continue having a MT vehicle. Plus the wife refuses to learn how to drive one so it occasionally poses logistical issues. I鈥檇 prefer 365hp and all the nice options and accept paddle shifters over the 2.0 MT.
So you're willing to give up $45k on a car that suits her to use once in a blue moon, but she's not willing to give up 15 minutes to learn a fun skill and suit you? Seems fair :) Just kidding, I tease. I guess I'm not sure what amenities the 2.0 doesn't have over 3.3. I thought the trim with a manual was pretty well equipped.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
So you're willing to give up $45k on a car that suits her to use once in a blue moon, but she's not willing to give up 15 minutes to learn a fun skill and suit you? Seems fair :) Just kidding, I tease. I guess I'm not sure what amenities the 2.0 doesn't have over 3.3. I thought the trim with a manual was pretty well equipped.
Hahaha, the 0-60 in 4.6 sec is what suits me! 馃槀 all the reviews mention how much slower the MT is, 6.2 sec 0-60 isn鈥檛 a whole heck of a lot better than our Mazda6. I haven鈥檛 researched into the options available on the genesis MT vs the 3.3. Just assuming based on most manufacturers out there only offering MT in lower models, I hated how Mazda forced me into the touring model to get a MT. Why can鈥檛 we have our cake and eat it too?? Imagine the 3.3 in a MT!! I just need to feel more of them G鈥檚 in my seat I guess.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
And to be honest, I鈥檝e even considered a convertible Camaro SS2. I鈥檓 approaching my midlife crisis age anyways hahaha. Rode in my buddies Challenger w Borla exhaust and damn it felt nice to get pushed back into that seat when he punched it....just don鈥檛 want the headaches that maintenance on a car like that could present (not that my Mazda hasn鈥檛 done just that).
 

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Why can鈥檛 we have our cake and eat it too?? Imagine the 3.3 in a MT!!
In a just world, we would at least have the choice. But, here we are.
 

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I hear ya. Thanks for the input. Of all the people I know through this forum yours is one I take as expert. I will ask them about the OEM filter. I did ask what they plan on doing w the engine and he said they just trash it.
Trash it?!

Find someone with a pickup, have it dropped in the bed, rent an engine crane, put it in your garage or wherever you can bum the space (it's not very big) on a few wood blocks for support and bag all the openings so moisture doesn't get in them.

Then find someone willing to give you something for it. Hell, the cylinder head is worth money as are any of the accessories left on it -- almost-certainly more than it will cost you to get it back to your house. If nothing else I'd disassemble it, bag the usable parts (e.g. rods, pistons, head, etc) and sell those. This stuff is worth real money (a cylinder head in good shape, complete with valves and such is worth a couple hundred bucks all on its own!)
 

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Why can鈥檛 we have our cake and eat it too?? Imagine the 3.3 in a MT!! I just need to feel more of them G鈥檚 in my seat I guess.
I REALLY like manual transmissions but I'm beginning to think that in a REALLY quick car an A/T is best. When acc. is really substantial just think how severely said acc. is interrupted by even an only slightly "mechanically sympathetic" shift of gears...
 
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