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Hi everyone, been reading thru the info here on the forum..thank you for all the insight.. I'm a small dealer and bought a 2006 Speed6 sight unseen at a dealer auction.. condition report says: "Bad Key, Towed In". Saw the vehicle for the first time today. Looks pretty good, coolant full, oil 1/2 quart low and dirty, no visible leaks, all suspension boots intact. Good battery, but the ignition knob does not turn and the anti theft light is flashing. OEM keycard is in the vehicle.

Anyone experience this before? Hoping to keep this and clean it up nice to get some attention for the dealership..

And yes I bought it for $700!! unknown miles (last reported at 117k miles in 2017). clean title
 

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Sometimes all it is is a few minutes of trying to turn the key on while trying to unlock the steering wheel. Eventually, it unlocks & car starts. I am assuming your wheel is locked, of course. Change key card battery just in case too.
 

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You can try starting the car with the physical key. This system is like an early push button start.

In one of the corners of the keycard, you should be able to pull out the physical key. the knob on the steering column also comes off revealing a slot to put the key into. you can try starting the car that way to see if at least the physical key will work.
 

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Thank you! I was able to unlock the steering by using the physical key. I didn't start the car right away because the oil was black and smelled like fuel.. not good! Anyways, drained the oil and changed the filter (pitch black)...started the car, it ran like crap. made horrendous noises. Removed intercooler, pulled plugs, they were soaked with oil, no bueno... Removed valve cover, replaced gasket, installed new plugs. The car is running much better. Also forgot to add that I removed and cleaned the throttle body. Took it for a drive... seems to run pretty good! Just 2 DTC's: P0103 (MAF) and P0335 (Crankshaft Position Sensor)...seems like progres is being made. Any advise on the 2 codes?
 

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Update: Removed the Crankshaft Position Sensor, cleaned, reinstalled, making sure that the timing marks were correctly lined up with the sensor on installation. While idling (rough idle bouncing between 1,000 and 500 RPM), unplugged MAF sensor. Idle actually improved. In my mind that means that the MAF sensor is no good. Removed and replaced MAF sensor with new unit. Cleared codes. Started the car and the codes did not come back. Took it for a nice 5 mile drive today to the car wash. When backing out of the garage I got a CEL with code p2187 (bank 1 lean at idle).. added fuel injector cleaner (seafoam) and 5 gallons of fresh gas before proceeding to the car wash. Upon return, cleared codes and let vehicle idle for a few minutes. As of right now, no codes. Car seems to be running good.

List of things to fix:
-A/C blows warm
-Remote control does not work when attempting to control navi. The screen is stuck on the part that says "Agree"
-RF CV Axle outer boot is not secure properly but does not appear to be damage
-These is a bearing noise coming from one of the pulley
-LR Outer Tailight hoses has a break in the plastic
-Car will need to pass emissions in order to be registered

Seems to be coming along well! What a blast to drive, now I know why you guys love them so much!
 
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