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^^ I've got cat failures as well, we have no emissions testing where I live so I'm not concerned at all about that. I'll keep you posted when I change the PCV.
 

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I figure at 36k miles on my 04' 6s, it's time to replace the PCV valve.
Went to Autozone and picked up the PCV#1001. Part fit perfectly, took me 15 minutes tops.
Cheap preventive maintenance.
 

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So who is gonna (or already done) a DIY project to replace the stock POS PCV valve?

I just went to AZ, got the wrong part (someone else here already had the same thing happen - PCV1001 - same bottom/wrong top). Went to PB, dealer part only. Went to one dealer, not stocked (seriously?) and 16.99. Went to another dealer, in stock, right part, *wrong* price (24.24).

I ended up ordering from RockAuto for 13.58 shipped. What a joke.

If the bottom of the valve wasn't such a specialty fitting, it would be easy to hook up a metal check valve up to some generic tubing, no?

2005 M6s wagon 5spd.
 

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So who is gonna (or already done) a DIY project to replace the stock POS PCV valve?
After re-thinking, and re-reading post #48, it seems pretty simple. Why replace the complicated part/connection when a failed valve effectively is an open/open circuit? For more assurance it could be drilled out... though it might be tough to do without leaving shrapnel in there.

Anyway, I'm pretty set on adding a cheap, but effective second valve. Could someone point me to 84fordman's original writeup? The link is broke. I'd like to get the appropriate gear and stop the bleeding (of M1).
 

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Could someone point me to 84fordman's original writeup? The link is broke.
Found the correct link...

Install An Inline PCV Valve (Prevent engine failure) - International Mazda Forums

Also: I've replaced the OEM valve with a factory (Airtex / Wells) valve. So far, and I could be getting ahead of myself (100 miles), it appears that I'm still losing oil. One thing to note about the valve was that it wasn't very "check-ish". I could blow through both ends almost as much as the old one I was replacing.
 

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Found the correct link...

Install An Inline PCV Valve (Prevent engine failure) - International Mazda Forums

Also: I've replaced the OEM valve with a factory (Airtex / Wells) valve. So far, and I could be getting ahead of myself (100 miles), it appears that I'm still losing oil. One thing to note about the valve was that it wasn't very "check-ish". I could blow through both ends almost as much as the old one I was replacing.
I hope you get that fixed soon... Keep us updated if you found the real problem and what the fix was...
 

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Can someone confirm correct Purolator PCV valve part # for a 2004 Mazda 6s, with 3.0 V6? Thanks. Also, I assume directions are the same for replacing as shown on the 2005, on page 20?
 

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White Smoke Every Time I start the Engine.

Who:
This CRP is specifically for the Mazda 6s (V6) platform.

PCV
The PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) Valve is a check valve that allows excess exhaust fumes in the crank case to re-enter the intake manifold and be re-combusted for emissions sake.


Problem:
If the valve breaks (its basically plastic), one of two things can happen,
http://forum.mazda6tech.com/viewtopic.php?p=36503#36503

1: The valve gets stuck close. Pressure builds up in the crankcase, eventually finding an outlet. This usually results in oil spraying back up into the intake tract, or blowing the dipstick out of its holder.

2: The valve gets stuck open. When vaccuum is applied (application of throttle), the intake air sucks the oil out of the crankcase using the pcv hose as a large straw.


Problem 2:
If option 2 occurs, a low oil condition can occur, which has an extremely high likelyhood of spinning a bearing. This can result in just a rod bearing replacement, or a complete bottom end rebuild. ($$$ and Very Bad)


Identifying The Problem:
Weekly oil checks will reveal a sudden increase in oil consumption. Sometimes blue smoke exiting the exhaust can be indicative of oil being sucked into the intake tract of the engine (and being burned in the combustion chamber).

This is exactly what is happening to my '04 Mazda 6s. Just over 72,500 miles, it started blowing out white smoke at start-up. I had my oil changed twice; once at an autoshop, and once at a Mazda Dealer (as the dealer stated the autoshop over filled it by 2 qts).

That was this past Monday. Now, every time I start after sitting for a few hours, it blows out the white smoke. My whole car was filled with smoke this afternoon... almost like a burnout.

But I only see smoke at start up. There was oil in my intake tube, which I cleaned once already.

I'll definitely check the PCV. I hope this will solve my issue.

Thanks,

jsGMan:lol:
 

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Mazda Stock #

Can someone confirm correct Purolator PCV valve part # for a 2004 Mazda 6s, with 3.0 V6? Thanks. Also, I assume directions are the same for replacing as shown on the 2005, on page 20?
None of my local Auto Parts stores, including NAPA carries this. I had to go to a dealer.

Dealer Part # AJ 0313 890B ~ $24.92. You can buy online for about 1/2 that.:lol:
 

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when changing my spark plugs i saw some oil on them, and i am loosing oil, so i tested the pcv valve.
when i'm applying pressure, there is SOME airflow.
is it normal and i have to search for other thing? or is it a pcv problem?
 

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any luck on the 2003's with the pcv? i was reading how it was working for later model years. and maybe the reason some pcv's work and some dont are because they made different pcv's for that yr, as with my 6 there are 2 different ones. also i talked to a mechanic that replaced a pcv on a tribute and ended up replacing the rear main seal a month later. so check to see where the oil is leaking before you try this.
 

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I figure at 36k miles on my 04' 6s, it's time to replace the PCV valve.
Went to Autozone and picked up the PCV#1001. Part fit perfectly, took me 15 minutes tops.
Cheap preventive maintenance.
I tried to use the Autozone PCV#1001 on my 2006 and it did not fit. Very close, but slightly too large a diameter to fit in the connecting hose. The thread and base looks identical, but the nipple doesn't fit.

Looks like Mazda changed things up slightly between '04 and '06.
 

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Typical dealer ripoff.

I paid 6 bucks at Autozone.
The AutoZone part, PCV#1001, doesn't work for some later years, although it seems to work for 2004s and earlier. I have a 2006 and it didn't fit, I've seen notes of 2005's that it doesn't fit for either.
 

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The AutoZone part, PCV#1001, doesn't work for some later years, although it seems to work for 2004s and earlier. I have a 2006 and it didn't fit, I've seen notes of 2005's that it doesn't fit for either.
Yes I see that also, some years seem to have different ones.
 

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In case anyone is wondering about the pictures of the tube that connects to the intake that some users posted. My dealer said that the tube on my car was collapsing at idle due to the vacuum, because it was old.

The dealer says that the replacement part is reinforced with ribs, I imagine like the pictures you see in others' posts.

For a data point, my 2003 has 169K miles, and it lasts 5000+ miles between oil changes, and doesn't need any replacement oil (though the oil pan is clearly dripping a bit here and there as it's wet - but that's like $500 to fix from all the labor). So the PCV valve thin is not from age, but probably just bad luck.
 

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In case anyone is wondering about the pictures of the tube that connects to the intake that some users posted. My dealer said that the tube on my car was collapsing at idle due to the vacuum, because it was old.

The dealer says that the replacement part is reinforced with ribs, I imagine like the pictures you see in others' posts.
Co-worker recently replaced the PCV on his Expedition. The factory hose had obviously weakened, and the new part from Ford was a different design with reinforcing ribs.

I'd love to know country of origin on the weak, original factory installed part......
 

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I just changed the PCV valve on my '05. Did not remove the upper intake. Major PITA. Actually pain in the hands as gloves were too bulky. Thin skin took a major beating. 98,365 miles. Hope to run the car another 5 yrs or so. Although, a Fusion Sport seems really appealing.
 

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03 mazda 6 3.0 engine runs but stops after is warn

Hi,

I am new here and i have a 03 mazda 6 3.0 automatic and the car stars fine but after is warm it stops and wont restart.
 
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