^^ I've got cat failures as well, we have no emissions testing where I live so I'm not concerned at all about that. I'll keep you posted when I change the PCV.
After re-thinking, and re-reading post #48, it seems pretty simple. Why replace the complicated part/connection when a failed valve effectively is an open/open circuit? For more assurance it could be drilled out... though it might be tough to do without leaving shrapnel in there.So who is gonna (or already done) a DIY project to replace the stock POS PCV valve?
Found the correct link...Could someone point me to 84fordman's original writeup? The link is broke.
I hope you get that fixed soon... Keep us updated if you found the real problem and what the fix was...Found the correct link...
Install An Inline PCV Valve (Prevent engine failure) - International Mazda Forums
Also: I've replaced the OEM valve with a factory (Airtex / Wells) valve. So far, and I could be getting ahead of myself (100 miles), it appears that I'm still losing oil. One thing to note about the valve was that it wasn't very "check-ish". I could blow through both ends almost as much as the old one I was replacing.
This CRP is specifically for the Mazda 6s (V6) platform.
The PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) Valve is a check valve that allows excess exhaust fumes in the crank case to re-enter the intake manifold and be re-combusted for emissions sake.
If the valve breaks (its basically plastic), one of two things can happen,
1: The valve gets stuck close. Pressure builds up in the crankcase, eventually finding an outlet. This usually results in oil spraying back up into the intake tract, or blowing the dipstick out of its holder.
2: The valve gets stuck open. When vaccuum is applied (application of throttle), the intake air sucks the oil out of the crankcase using the pcv hose as a large straw.
If option 2 occurs, a low oil condition can occur, which has an extremely high likelyhood of spinning a bearing. This can result in just a rod bearing replacement, or a complete bottom end rebuild. ($$$ and Very Bad)
Identifying The Problem:
Weekly oil checks will reveal a sudden increase in oil consumption. Sometimes blue smoke exiting the exhaust can be indicative of oil being sucked into the intake tract of the engine (and being burned in the combustion chamber).
None of my local Auto Parts stores, including NAPA carries this. I had to go to a dealer.Can someone confirm correct Purolator PCV valve part # for a 2004 Mazda 6s, with 3.0 V6? Thanks. Also, I assume directions are the same for replacing as shown on the 2005, on page 20?
I tried to use the Autozone PCV#1001 on my 2006 and it did not fit. Very close, but slightly too large a diameter to fit in the connecting hose. The thread and base looks identical, but the nipple doesn't fit.I figure at 36k miles on my 04' 6s, it's time to replace the PCV valve.
Went to Autozone and picked up the PCV#1001. Part fit perfectly, took me 15 minutes tops.
Cheap preventive maintenance.
Co-worker recently replaced the PCV on his Expedition. The factory hose had obviously weakened, and the new part from Ford was a different design with reinforcing ribs.In case anyone is wondering about the pictures of the tube that connects to the intake that some users posted. My dealer said that the tube on my car was collapsing at idle due to the vacuum, because it was old.
The dealer says that the replacement part is reinforced with ribs, I imagine like the pictures you see in others' posts.