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After reading this thread, I'm convinced the PCV valve likely needs replaced. Several ppl have talked about replacing the engine. How do I know if this is necessary? If that was needed, would the engine have completely seized and not run?
 

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My dear Mazda 6 bit the big one a little over a week when the engine decided to disintegrate, at only about 63K miles. Symptoms - car exhibits rod knock, diagnosis - bottom end failure.

This started with a foul noise while getting onto the highway (at probably about 5K RPM). This was after a right hand on-ramp (from which I've now heard causes the worst oil starvation). After easing off, I noticed the Check Engine Light, and got off the highway. Then the Oil Light came on, so I pulled over and had it towed to my mechanic's shop.

This is a 2004 6s - the 3.0L with manual tranny.

It's been pretty well maintained with regular oil changes, and Redline MTL in the trans. The car was broken in very gently and has never been abused. My old 90 Civic Si lasted past 220K when I sold it off, so this is quite the shocker to me. Only mod (if you can call it that) is a K&N filter.

I have previously checked the oil level mid change and it was never below a 1/2 quart low.

I'm trying to talk with Mazda now about getting this taken care of as a warranty item, though I haven't gotten very far with them yet.

After reading a little over half this thread (so far), I obviously suspect a PCV valve issue. Can anyone provide some advice on how to best deal with Mazda regarding covering this? I'd like to think they they'd take care of their customers, but I haven't seen evidence of that with this problem.

The car is still at my mechanics - Mazda has not asked for the car yet, but I expect them to. In the meantime, would it be a good idea to have my mechanic pull and inspect the PCV valve, so I know? And then what, put it back in? (It has to "click" into place? Any other advice?)

Some Qs (sorry, have not yet read the ENTIRE thread):
Does anyone know how much has this has caused engine failure (few, dozens, hundreds, more)?
Did they change the part for later years of the same engine? (It sounded like the '05s and later were different, but still a problem (?))
Did they ever issue a recall for this part? (I didn't see any.)
How about a Tech bulletin?


And if they won't take care of me - any recommendation on how to proceed would be appreciated.

Right now I'm considering used or rebuilt engines.

*What other cars can I take the engine from?*


(Argh!)

Again, any advice would be appreciated. (I'm located in Northern NJ).

Thanks,

Dan
 

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QUOTE (DonWa7 @ Aug 4 2008, 10:34 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=1405043
I just turned 60k on my 2004 sedan... I decided to pop into AutoZone and pick up a PCV valve. The 1001 costs $5.99 and is an exact fit. (Also, the poppet in the stock PCV - yes, this is the first time I ever changed it - is free floating, just like the aftermarket one.)...[/b]
Dead thread revival:

I decided on a whim to grab an Uh-OhZone pn 1001 PCV valve. Verified the information in the catalog and at the counter. The bottom part of it was perfect and did indeed fit. The top part is a stubby little hose bib connection and does not match nor will it fit the clip type hose. At least not on my car.

It's too short and the wrong connection.

God I hope Mazda's Parts counter is open on Columbus day.
 

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QUOTE (Spazdog @ Oct 11 2009, 11:16 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=1608070
Dead thread revival:

I decided on a whim to grab an Uh-OhZone pn 1001 PCV valve. Verified the information in the catalog and at the counter. The bottom part of it was perfect and did indeed fit. The top part is a stubby little hose bib connection and does not match nor will it fit the clip type hose. At least not on my car.

It's too short and the wrong connection.

God I hope Mazda's Parts counter is open on Columbus day.[/b]
As I understand it, the 05' is supposed have a different PCV than the 04' DW has.
 

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So im a little over 105,000 miles, and my 6 has gone through about 4 quarts of oil in about 1500 miles. Im using the recommended 5w 20 oil. Should i be using something like 10w 30?
I havent noticed any smoke or leaking. I will see some white smoke when i take off the oil cap to put oil in. I occasionally smell burning oil but not very much. But my 6 is burning that oil like its nothin! I cant decide if it would be the PCV valve or not. A lot of people are saying that they have done the replacement PCV valve but it still consumes oil excessively.
 

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QUOTE (Nick Atwood @ Oct 14 2009, 10:51 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=1608966
So im a little over 105,000 miles, and my 6 has gone through about 4 quarts of oil in about 1500 miles. Im using the recommended 5w 20 oil. Should i be using something like 10w 30?
I havent noticed any smoke or leaking. I will see some white smoke when i take off the oil cap to put oil in. I occasionally smell burning oil but not very much. But my 6 is burning that oil like its nothin! I cant decide if it would be the PCV valve or not. A lot of people are saying that they have done the replacement PCV valve but it still consumes oil excessively.[/b]

No harm in replacing the PCV valve if you have not done it yet.
it's not that hard to replace and cost you less than $10 I think for the part.
 

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I have a 2005 mazda 6 it started with the ticking noise day by day it got worse. i took it to a local mechanic he told me i had a bad cylinder so i parked it for a month. A few days ago i started it up and it was smoking n still ticking behind the engine i tried driving it to another mechanic it was smoking really bad and bucking i just made it to the shop n it stalled out . he did diagnostic on it and said i had 2 bad cylinders so i pick it up the next day it i started it and it was ticking loud but when i let off the clutch the ticking went really low and it wasn't smoking....i don't know what to do a friend said try to replace the valves and other people are telling me to get a engine but i can't find a engine from a manual car anywhere what should i do
 

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It shouldn't matter if the donor engine came from a manual or automatic. And for goodness sake, stop driving it!
 

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so my 2004 wagon is burning a bit of oil, i can smell it when it starts, but then it goes away, the longer it sits the worse it is, and its worse on cold days, could this be a pcv valve,
 

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so my 2004 wagon is burning a bit of oil, i can smell it when it starts, but then it goes away, the longer it sits the worse it is, and its worse on cold days, could this be a pcv valve,
That would be the first place I'd look.
 

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Over the 4th of July weekend, my friend and I replaced my 2005 PCV valve. I'm writing up a basic how-to and post it within the next day or 2. I hope my pictures will help.
 

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Silver - just in case you didn't think anyone cared, I'm waiting on your update.

Thanks
 
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Hey Thanks so much for this! I hit 84K miles recently, folks have been noticing excessive smoke on start up, and I have been buring oil. But- I am also leaking oil onto the pavement as evidence of my nifty cardboard tray catch. I guess it is possible the hose is leaking too? I will have the shop check it out.
 

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Holy **** - I forgot to update, sorry guys! Here it is ...
----------------------------------------------------------------------

This weekend, my buddy and I spent some time replacing my PCV valve on my 2005 Mazda6S (took 30-45 minutes and we are old and clumsy). Since this is the ‘05 V6 version, I don’t know if the directions or pictures that I’m pointing out will be the same as the I4 version or the V6 from other years, but at least this can get you started. My car has 50K miles, and lately I’ve noticed excessive oil consumption. I thought that changing the PCV is a good place to start. The hardest part about this is removing the old PCV valve, because it is tight down there!


Step 1: Identify PCV and remove connectors for space:
If you look at the back of the engine, there is a 5/8" tube running into the intake manifold. In picture #1, you'll see that this tube has a green sticker on it (red box #3). You can't see the PCV valve from this angle, but if you follow that tube down, you'll see a gray plastic piece. That is the PCV valve.



For step 1, we remove the 2 hoses and an electrical connectors (red boxes 1, 2, and 3). That will give us more clearance.







Step 2: Remove the tubes to get to the PCV valves.
Right, now you need to remove the 5/8" tube completely (the one with the green sticker). Picture #2 you can see that there are some hose-grips on that tubes, so using small pliers will help here.






After that, there is another adapter connected to that piece. Please see picture #3 and #4 for reference. That adapter must be remove because it spins freely. To remove, use your hand (no tools needed). Press the green adapter to release the grip and pull up.










Step 3: Remove PCV valve
You can see the full assembly in picture #3 and #4. Next is to remove the PCV valve. There is a shallow thread on that PCV valve, so you'll need to turn it to remove it. Use something to help you, like a clamp or pliers and rotate the PCV valve 1/4 turn counter-clockwise. This will be kind of difficult, but just keep working on it and it will loosen and pop out. A long reach nose-pliers can come in handy. In picture #5, you can see how tight it is down there.







Step 4: Replace and reconnect.
Replace the old PCV valve with the new one. Reconnect all the other hoses and connectors. Start engine and check for leaks. That's it.


Good luck guys!
 

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thanks for posting this! I changed my plugs today and noticed some oil in my throttle body and suspect the PCV so this will help out alot in changing it. I've got an 04 6S Hatch so I'll take some pix of that install and post once I get to the dealer for the part.

Can anyone confirm the correct part num for an 04 6S Hatch?

Thanks!
 

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thanks for posting this! I changed my plugs today and noticed some oil in my throttle body and suspect the PCV so this will help out alot in changing it. I've got an 04 6S Hatch so I'll take some pix of that install and post once I get to the dealer for the part.

Can anyone confirm the correct part num for an 04 6S Hatch?

Thanks!
Hey Double. I'm having exactly the same problem! First I'm losing 1 qt of engine oil every 50 miles, and now I'm seeing engine oil in my throttle body plate and around the throttle body. There seems to be oil in my vacuum line as well. I'm reading around and I see people reporting pre-cat/cat failures. Please keep us posted with your findings. Thanks.
 
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