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Discussion Starter #1
I'm going on my 4th replaced OEM fan controller now and since I am out of warranty I refuse to use the crappy Mazda controller. It's again running full blast when at Hwy speeds with the outside temp at 65 or lower.

I'm thinking of using this fan controller:
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.a...15&autoview=sku

I plan to leave the stock (broken) controller in place and connected. I will cut the two wires leading from the OEM controller to each of the two fans and route them to the Flex-a-lite controller instead.

I know I might get a pending code doing this and I am fine with it as long as nothing else serious triggers.

If someone could do me a favor and tell me which wire triggers the AC Clutch? And whether the AC compressor clutch has a switched negative or switched positive supply?

Any help and advice is greatly appreciated and I will post the results of my project when done.
 

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Sounds smart, but don't take my word. Just be safe and make sure you know what you're doing. I wouldn't imaginge anything dangerous happening.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
So far so good.

I've installed the fan controller and it seems to be working well so far. All I need to do now is find the wire that turns on the AC Clutch and attach it to the fan controller so that the fans turn on when the AC Clutch engages. Finding and tapping the wire next to the AC compressor appears difficult so I’m hoping to play around the fuse box and find the wire there. OR someone could make my life easier and tell which wire I can use…hint hint…lol. ;)

I have some pictures and will probably make a "How I did it." later on after I make everything neat, waterproof, and after some "time testing" is done. But here is the cliff notes version:

I disconnected the two fans from the OEM FCM and ran wires from the Flex-a-lite VSC and pushed them into the two fan's wiring harnesses. Right now they are just pushed into the harness but I plan to buy some spades to make it a clean setup.

I wired the VSC’s power directly to the battery and tapped one of the fuses for the ignition signal.

I Dremeled a hole in the fan shroud as close to the radiator inlet as possible. The radiator inlet I used was the one whose hose is connected to the t-stat.

I stuck the temp sender in the radiator (it did not go all the way through because of the AC radiator in front of it had a pipe in the way). I then stuck a meat thermometer next to the sender and connected the sender’s wires to the VSC

Checked all the wiring again and turned on the engine and let it warm up. When the meat thermometer read 190-195 degrees I kept on turning the VSC’s adjustment screw until it reliably turned on the fans in that temp range.

I currently have Cobra Valley's Balanced t-stat that cracks open at 180 and should be fully open by 188. I choose to use the 190 to 195 degree range for the VSC because it seems to be the best compromise between fuel econ, performance, engine longevity, and keeping the engine cool during heavy load.

So far I am very happy with this VSC. It was easy to install and it is great to have control over your coolant temp instead of having to rely on the OEM’s settings
 
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