Mazda 6 Forums banner

61 - 80 of 108 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
273 Posts
My DOUBLE DIN kit is in...have a few questions.

Well to all trying to get your display working it is possible. I have a 03 with the Ebay double din installed. I also put a 2008 information display in and it is fully functional with some creative wiring. Check out the pictures for the final install. PM me if you would like to know how to do it. The benefit is that the 2008 display allows for customization of the text as well as being a better design that is less prone to failure.

I FINALLY got around to installing my DOUBLE DIN eBay kit. I've got a few questions for anyone with it installed???




First off...my AC/REAR DEFOGGER/ RECIRCULATE buttons aren't illuminated. Same goes for the HAZZARD switch.

Oddly, there's a RED LED behind the HAZZARD switch, but the light doesn't shine through. I kinda figured the buttons would be backlit at night, but all you see are the blinding LEDs..and no way to identify the CLIMATE CONTROL BUTTONS in the dark.


Secondly, I had to sand down the "PASSENGER AIRBAG OFF" cover to have it fit properly in the space provided. In the factory kit and the Metra SINGLE DIN, the piece pops in perfectly.


Lastly, I had a BITCH of a time getting the bottom of the kit into the dash...where the two screws hold the bottom of the kit near the ashtray and lighter. The edges of the kit down low are about 1/16" too wide, so I literally had to bed the bottom console outwards to get the piece to fit in.


Once the kit is installed, it looks pretty good. The kit is FAR from perfec,t, but overall I'd say this is the best kit out there. That said, we all know our options for a DOUBLE DIN for vehicle are slim.

On a side note, I'm anxious to see the Metra DOUBLE DIN kit that's due to be released sometime this summer.

Justin
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
Hi! New to the Forum but ready to dive in and learn as well as share iso with other like yourself. so. i have he ebay kit and the 2008 display for my 2003 m6i i purchased the wires from star tech u recommended so i was wondering about the top pins on the display and the 5th set of wires is not a 2pin connector its a 3 pin an the wires are on opposite ended. I'm stuck. lmk if u have some time to help. I'm in New York. I'm available anytime sat & sun 716-948-7664
Thanks,
Rob
 
G

·
Rear window defrost and air recirculate lights staying on

Problem with the lights that stay on when the ignition is off I have discovered on mine, is the circuit board doesn't fit the button holes cut in the trim plate. I can remove the board and the buttons click and work just fine. I install the board and something is binding the buttons and they stay pushed, thus illuminating the lights. I filed the button holes and shimmed the board seems to have freed the binding.
Anyway thought I'd share this and maybe save someone some grief with sending it back are arguing with the seller.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Pins 7&9 are the CAN bus which took me forever to figure out where to get this. This comes from the double din kit. The two pin connector with Pink and Blue/Pink. Pin 7 goes to the pink and pin 9 is blue/pink. This is what sends all the HVAC information to the display.

This should be all you need to get the information display working. Let me know if you have any more questions. Unlike many people who figure stuff out, I will actually stick around to answer questions and not keep it a secret. This took me about a month to finally figure out and I hope I can save you some time.
I would like to express my gratitude for this immense insight! Thanks to you I finally have my fan controls and temp displaying correctly on my MS6 LCD screen!!
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
Thanks for the help!

Kind of an old link... Messages from this thread were ESSENTIAL to my getting this to work on my wife's 2004 Mazda 6 Sport Wagon. Used a Pioneer single DIN Bluetooth Stereo, 2008 display, a Maestro kit for the steering wheel controls which all work. Phone works with bluetooth hands free. All air and other controls work fine. Only thing that didn't work out was for some reason by lights don't work on the shifter console. Think this is unreleated to the kit...

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B4LjvxXiHZ5fTjhERHNpQjYxNjg/view?usp=sharing

Regards,

Aservire
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Kind of an old link... Messages from this thread were ESSENTIAL to my getting this to work on my wife's 2004 Mazda 6 Sport Wagon. Used a Pioneer single DIN Bluetooth Stereo, 2008 display, a Maestro kit for the steering wheel controls which all work. Phone works with bluetooth hands free. All air and other controls work fine. Only thing that didn't work out was for some reason by lights don't work on the shifter console. Think this is unreleated to the kit...

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B4LjvxXiHZ5fTjhERHNpQjYxNjg/view?usp=sharing

Regards,

Aservire
Any chance you'd be selling that dash kit in the near future?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Europa PCB
Hope this will help! For DIY
Left side count from down
1.J165 - > LED
2.J164-> LED
3.J151 -> left connector middle down pin
4. ! from 145 to J194 on pcb !
5.J142 - > J144
6.J227 - > J315
7.J181 - > led
8.J191 - > led
9.R922 - > led
10.R920 - > led
11.R923 - > LED
12. any


right side
1.J206 - > right connector right down pin
2.J102 -> J130
3.J153 -> led
4.J249 - > right connector up right
5.J307 - > right connector middle down
6.- > need to cut
7.J223 - > L901
8.J158 - > led
9. see point 4 left side
10.Q904 down - > led
11.any
 

Attachments

·
100% CANUCK
Joined
·
7,600 Posts
Thread revival and my first post here in a VERY long time.

Finally bought myself a double din headunit (Kenwood DNX693S) and scooped up one of these ebay kits (used of course) locally from a friend. Of course, he had a single din installed and cant find the double din brackets or trim ring. Looks like I may have to get crafty and make some brackets from steel.

Im sure some of the posts in this thread about the wiring will be a huge help.

Cant wait to get this thing installed!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
What I would actually like to know is if I actually need the brackets from my old oem radio to mount it to my HU and what size to use for the screws that will hold the HU
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
32 Posts
Double Din Project WIP

Glad to see this thread seeing some life again. Its been one of those I've come across and read again and again to plan for my stereo upgrade in my 2007 Mazda 6 GY. Last year i upgraded the door speakers, and this year I've gotten the double din kit and took out all the coloured plastic trimmings and had it all painted.

So over the next few months I'll be getting things setup and ready to go based on not at least the wirering post in here from jcf6288.

As for head unit I've gone with Xtrons Octacore TB706APL which is one of the few Chinese models that allows for RCA out for rear screens.

I'm going to have to splice some cables onto the CANbus ISO adapter I got for steering wheel controls but once done it should end up pretty epic.

Here is a couple of pics of the painted double din.

Double Din Full:


Double Din Closeup:


Hope this can help inspire others to go down this path.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
32 Posts
Double Din Project WIP - Part #2

Time for a short update.

So since the other day I received parts. Which is a good thing. Now I can start looking at what seems to be the most time consuming part of all. Planning and the cable splicing and making sure all the cables are set right and have working connections. I want to make sure that I have the cables set before I start taking the car apart and taking out the radio.

So here is the plan and where I've started.

Cabling:
I'm going to splice in cables for the top display. Instead of the PC kit that was recommended before I'm using the stock Arduino cables one can buy cheap. One needs to run 10 cables from the display to the ISO cable so I'll be using a good soldering iron and some wire shrink wrap to make sure after the soldering things are sealed tight.
I'm also going to use the universal cable that came with the double din dash kit to be a donor for the ISO harness I got. So I can get the molex cable and the canbus wires (blue/ping and ping wires) from the dash kit into the new ISO harness I got. It has a CANbus adapter to make sure I get the steering wheel controls over to the Xtron head unit.
On the stock ISO cable for the stereo I'm going to solder the break control wire (Ping on the Xtron cable) to the B+ (Yellow) wire to make sure I override the break restriction for video and other features. Also I found that it has an illumination wire, that I'll splice into the illumination wire that comes from the car and goes into the top AC display. I found out that the ISO harness I bought with the steering wheel adapter didn't have the illumination wire in it, so instead of tapping into the car I used the dash kits universal harness to donor the connection pin + wire (its part of the 5 pin molex for auto AC) along with the molex plug over to the harness I'm going to use. So when I get to the part where I need to hook it up I'll not have to hook into the car in any way. I'm doing all the splicing in the adapter harness pre-install.

See parts here: files.markwalker.dk/mazda/Parts.jpg

The Head unit looks really nice to me, flat and clean: files.markwalker.dk/mazda/HeadUnit.jpg

I was originally worried ho it would fit within the actual double din dash kit even after I had it painted, but it turns out its going to look really nice and flush.

I test installed it on a table to see how it would look: files.markwalker.dk/mazda/DashAndUnit.jpg

Once all the soldering and wire work is done I may start by just running the important cables in the car before taking out the unit. So running a reverse cam in the car to the front glove compartment, and then running the microphone up to the rearview mirror and lastly which I didn't mention before I ordered the DAB+ dongle so I'll need to install the DAB+ antenna at the very top of the front window. The wire it came with is just not long enough to run to the rear of the car (At least I don't see how it can in my car, will have to measure that out when I'm in it).

NOTE: And I'm sorry that the pics aren't auto shown, but my post count is not high enough to actually post images yet. Once I am I'll go back and edit them in correctly.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
32 Posts
Double Din Project WIP - Part #2

Time for another update.

Parts started arriving and its getting to that stage where I can start doing actual prep work for the actual install. I figure the time consuming steps are going to be the harness wirering/splicing and the running of various cables inside the car. For now that will be, reverse camera + microphone from rear view mirror area and the DAB+ antenna thats part of the kit I bought.

Parts are lining up nicely: files.markwalker.dk/mazda/Parts.jpg

Xtron TB706APL: files.markwalker.dk/mazda/HeadUnit.jpg

For the splicing I'm using 40cm Ardiono cables from the top LED dash to ISO harness I bought. Furthermore I'm using the double dash kit from ebay's universal harness as a donor for the 5 pin molex and the CANbus cables that need to run into the dash kit. Once all cables are splice (cut, soldered, wire shrink wrapped) the ISO harness should be good to go. I mean I do need to splice in +15 wires to make all parts come together.
I'm also going to solder the Break Control wire on the Xtron head unit to B+ (Yellow wire) to make sure it overrides any restrictions while driving. Might as well do it in the kables as I want to avoid any cutting of the cables in the car.
It also turned out that the ISO/CANbus adapter cable I bought to make sure that steering wheel controls work didn't have a pin in the plug for the illumination wire that I'll bee needing for the dash kit and the top display, so I took the cable + molex + pin from the universal harness and inserted it into my purchased ISO harness.

Once all the cabling is done and the head unit is correctly fastened to the double din kit I will be using velcro tape to attach the devices I need USB attached to the head unit underneath it. I opted to use an Anker powered USB hub and found a 3A 12v microUSB converter on ebay. I will be splicing that into the power wires of the ISO harness allowing for any USB device to work without having to worry about the headunit being underpowered.

I tested out the looks of the head unit in the dash kit and it looks really nice.

Semi mounted: files.markwalker.dk/mazda/DashAndUnit.jpg

I think once I get the wirering done I'll show the end result and see about getting the USB and other parts velcro'd to the head unit.

I think before progressing to do the full on mount in the car I may spend some time just running the wires pre-install of the dash and headunit. I do need to run a video cable from the back hatch to the front of the car, run a mic up to the rear view mirror and finally run the DVB+ antenna to somewhere so it can get signal. It looks like it has to be mounted on one of the windows, but I fear the wire is too short to be run from the rear window to the front, that would have been a nice place to have it though.

I'll post back when I have more info on my radio upgrade. Its starting to be a fun project.

NOTE: I know I'm not posting the full links to the images I have, but I don't have a high enough post count to do so. So is the live of a newbie :p
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
32 Posts
Double Din Project WIP - Part #2

So as I mentioned parts arrived. And I’m starting to feel like a little kid again.

The head unit arrived:


And its looking great. The Xtrons Octacore TB706APL is a fair bit longer than the 108mm as the docs say, its more like 143mm like the other Chinese units. But it should still fit.

Among other parts I ordered is a DAB+ USB dongle with antenna. I also had to order an external mic as the Xtrons ship without them. And I had previously ordered a ISO CANbus adapter harness to get the steering wheel controls over to the head unit. The one I ordered even came with a cable from the control box to the Chinese models so it should be an easy fit.

My focus at the moment is the cabling and splicing of cables to make sure all connections are correct and working. I’ve found out that I have to splice around 15-17 cables to get all things working right.

Cables and stuff can be seen here:


The current plan is to use some 40cm Arduino cables (They are quite similar to the PC bezel kit linked to earlier in this thread but much easier to come by) to splice into the ISO harness and I have a box of misc housings for the Arduino cables to click into. I’m hoping the 10 pin one I have just slides right into the LED display once done.

Furthermore I’m going to use the Double Din kit’s universal harness as a donor for the cables I need to feed into the Double Din circuit boards. So cutting off the Molex and CANbus wires and splicing them into the ISO CANbus adapter for easy fitting when I actually fit the unit into the car.

In the ISO CANbus kit I ordered the illumination pin was missing from the car end of the cable, so I’ve unclipped the pin in the Double Din kits universal harness and fed that into my primary harness. That will allow me to pull the illumination controls over to both the top LED display and the head unit (Yeah the head unit has an illumination in wire).

To make this all come together I’ll be using my trusty Weller temp controlled soldering iron and a fair bit of wire shrink wrap. So once done it should end up nice and robust.

I also wanted to get a quick feel of how the head unit will look in the dash. So I added a little felt tape to the headunit and fixed it to the dash kit. Looks really nice:


So over the next few nights or early next week I’ll probably be fixing wires and testing their connections etc. Should be fun :D
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
32 Posts
One more thing I forgot to mention, is that the spacer frame that comes with the Double Din kit doesn't work on the Chinese double din head units, its way to small. That also means that if one isn't using the spacer the fastening of the brackets for the head unit don't lign up right.

There are small raised pins from the kit to ensure the spacer frame locks in place right. I'll have to cut those off and also cut a tiny bit off the screw points that extrude from the Dash kit to fasten the brackets on. I'm thinking the best solution may be to use one screw in each bracket to make it sit reasonably firm to the kit, and then use some sort of super glue to make the brackets fit perfectly tight.

I'll add pictures of what I mean when I'm back home with the kit.
 
61 - 80 of 108 Posts
Top