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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
What with the rash of catalytic converter thefts in North America I was wondering how vulnerable our third gen cars are. Also, is there a preferred means of safeguarding against this? I have heard of "CatStrap", along with an optical (?) alarm (with logic). Also, other cable-type affairs, sheet metal aux. panels, etc.

Tilt alarm?

What would frost me as much as anything would be indiscriminate rocker panel jacking damage and other general destruction involved in actually getting to it. I have insurance but don't want to go there at all.

Ideas, comments?
 

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Tilt alarm? That's interesting...

This reminds me of my father back then, he needed to borrow a car because his car was in a shop and he had a very important appointment that day.

He parked the car and after two or three hours, he came back with a missing wheel!

The "smart" guy even borrowed a jack to a nearby vulcanizing shop and so they all thought the guy is the owner!!

Do we have this kind of alarm? I don't remember reading it from the owner's manual.
 

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Dude, i told you last time you brought this up how to fix... but having been under my car, its IMPOSSIBLE to do so without undoing 10 bolts and other bits that cover half the exhaust including the cat. Then you gotta cut through stainless piping twice.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Sorry, I don't recall having asked about this before (Sr. Moment I guess)... but I am slightly confused by your answer: you seem to intimate that there is a fix... (I don't recall what you said the fix was)... but you also seem to say that it would take a lot of component removal to put the fix in place... OR are you saying that there are a lot of items requiring removal to be able to get to the cat in the first place?

Kindly explain what the fix would be...
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I found my previous post... and you replied that the use of a metal plate with some self-tapping screws would be à-propos, easier than adding a tilt alarm...

As mentioned there too, I just want to prevent actual attempts to access it...
 

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Well, before i knew what was under the car, that was my suggestion. Im guessing youve never looked under it either...

First, this needs to be removed (or cut since its thin aluminum)
243039


Then this has to be unbolted (6 bolts, very tight, 14mm socket)
243040


Then this, 6 more bolts, optional if they dont wanna be 'neat' about it.
243041
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Do agree. They do not go around with extension cords... If an individual really knows his cars, he / she (?) would come with the correct size of socket / ratchet to remove the underpanel, too... or a selection of sockets... :|
 

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Easy... battery operated saw-zall with metal blades.
NFW dude, thats like 10 ga. I wore out a blade for every cut i made on 18ga stainless tube, no way they cut that panel.

Do agree. They do not go around with extension cords... If an individual really knows his cars, he / she (?) would come with the correct size of socket / ratchet to remove the underpanel, too... or a selection of sockets... :|
Unless youre planning on being quiet as well and brought a long ass breaker bar, no way with cordless tools cause of the noise.
 

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A small portable torch would also be super-quick, and if you wore out a sawzall blade cutting a single piece of tubing, you used the wrong blade.

There’s certainly a difference between an ignorant punk attempting this kind of theft, and a knowledgeable experienced thief.
 
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Correct me if I'm wrong here but the precat is, for all intents and purposes attached to /integral with the header. Seems to me that the main cat (the underfloor cat) has an upstream flange at least... is not integral with the pre-cat.

Of course I'm talking about the main cat, the underfloor cat.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
... Regardless, i stand by my assertion, no one will bother your car, if they look at it.
Yeah, I figure that's likely, but due to indiscriminate jacking (damage) I don't even want them to look at it (using their jack)...
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
The upstream O2 sensor, it seems, trims the mixture... The downstream O2 sensor appears to check that the converter is operating properly. Only, based on what u say it checks the precat not the underfloor cat. Weird. My sense was/is that the underfloor cat is the "workhorse" but it takes too long to light off... hence the close-coupled precat... really only there for startup.

?????
 

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No, its cause we have a real header and the length of the runners prohibits the cat from getting hot enough fast enough on cold start. Im truly stymied on how that much packaging can be helpful in such a small space, but the results dont lie...



The second cat seen here, is a good almost 3 ft away from it and has the 2nd O2 bung right in front of it.

 
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