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Here we go again...
@Byakuya

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Yep. Went back and read his other posts. Lives in Florida, asks for instructions, soap box posts, yada, yada, yada

He's baaack!
I can see where you were trying to be helpful, but ended up just coming across as a complete douche. That is unfortunate because there were some good points there.

FYI full-grain leathers (like my red leather seats on my Durango) need something more than wax. Bonded leathers, semi-aniline leathers, full-grain leathers, yeah they all have different requirements. So nothing is a catch-all.

Here's a useful tip from a pro - Optimum Opti Clean 2.0 + a 3:1 ratio with distilled or filtered water + a splash of isopropyl alcohol makes a really good interior cleaner.

OTC products are meant to just buy and go. They aren't bad, they are just fail-safe. Pretty much everything but Armor-All is acceptable, IMO and in my personal detailing experience.
You haven't met this guy yet. He has a long history here, despite his current low post count. His handle is pure irony, not lost on me or others. Watch as this unfolds...

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Thanks for the mention, Gerry.

Honestly, I have been watching him very closely since he joined the forum. It's very difficult to hide one's mannerisms and habits, especially after I've already banned him 5 times for this exact same behavior.

Each time he comes back to the forum, he begins by trying to get along with everyone, asking harmless-enough questions; and each time I do my best to reply to his questions and help him out.

Then he can't resist posting something like this, as well as the inane plasti-dip one he already put up.

Seiya, @Mazda6Suspension, I knew from the moment you started talking on this forum that you wouldn't be able to help yourself, and would revert to your old habits. I PM'd Brett from CorkSport immediately, telling him to humor you and your rants on his thread, and let me know as soon as you got out of hand.

You have 24 hours to clean up the garbage you continue to strew on this forum, lest you be banned a 6th time.

Though, I'm sure @SubiGT would like that so he can add to his signature.
 

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Thanks for the mention, Gerry.

Honestly, I have been watching him very closely since he joined the forum. It's very difficult to hide one's mannerisms and habits, especially after I've already banned him 5 times for this exact same behavior.

Each time he comes back to the forum, he begins by trying to get along with everyone, asking harmless-enough questions; and each time I do my best to reply to his questions and help him out.

Then he can't resist posting something like this, as well as the inane plasti-dip one he already put up.

Seiya, @Mazda6Suspension, I knew from the moment you started talking on this forum that you wouldn't be able to help yourself, and would revert to your old habits. I PM'd Brett from CorkSport immediately, telling him to humor you and your rants on his thread, and let me know as soon as you got out of hand.

You have 24 hours to clean up the garbage you continue to strew on this forum, lest you be banned a 6th time.

Though, I'm sure @SubiGT would like that so he can add to his signature.
Ready!
 

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Couple quick questions on prepping my white 2015 m6 for cquartz.

I have some light swirl marks, is the mequiars dual action drill attachment and some m205 the best to get those out? Has anyone burned through their clear coat on here? Which pad to use?

I plan to wash twice with dawn, iron x, clay, polish, wash again with dawn. Should I follow up with an isopropyl/microfiber wash as the last thing before the cquartz?
 

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The drill attachment is something i would not recommend unless you have no other avenue. i.e. if you are without a garage and have no source of electricity, and the only option to polish your car is using a battery drill, then go ahead with the Meguiars drill attachment polisher. If you have a power socket that you can use, buy a rupes duetto or Meguiars DA polisher.

The intent of using a dish washing soap to wash your car is to strip off any previous layers of wax/sealants. I'd just do a regular wash with car shampoo since you are hitting it with iron x and claying it anyways which will remove any previous layers of protection. Once you have cleaned the car and sprayed it with Iron x, do another rinse with just water ( or soap if you have time) before starting to clay. It is not necessary to wash again after claying. After you've clay bar the car, i suggest M105 or Rupes Quarz medium compound with rupes maroon or yellow cutting pad. M205 is a finisher and wont do much to remove deeper swirls. Once you are done compounding and have removed most of the swirls , finish with M205 or rupes ultra fine polish with yellow pad. Now give a final wipe down with isopropyl alcohol to remove the compound/polish agent before applying your choice of protection. Cquartz if you fancy ceramic or even regular synthetic protectant like menzerna should hold good for 6months to an year.
 

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I agree with that, get a good DA and you'll be happy. I love the Griot's Garage GG6 for a starter unit, mostly because of the lifetime warranty. Buy direct from Griot's and they usually cover shipping both ways for warranty, I've learned. Also the Harbor Freight DA is great, just replace the grease with something way better (I went with high-temp boat grease, the good red stuff) and it will serve. You need a good backing pad, the HF one is junk. And if you want something that will do more work in less time, the Griot's BOSS (15mm or 21mm) is a great choice because it has the warranty, and has a great backing pad by default. I have a BOSS G15 on a 5.5" pad myself, that's my 100% go-to daily.
 

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Thanks, budget will only allow the HF DA which should be fine since I only plan on a once a yr polish.
You should be fine. Like I said just get a quality backing pad, the HF pad is unacceptable for car polishing. GOOD for car sanding however! The CG flexible pad I use now works great with it. Also with my HF polisher (which is my backup of my backup) I wrapped (with traction tape) the metal around the cup because it gets really hot and its a good place to grab the polisher as long as you're not burning yourself!

If you are on a bit of a budget or just need a good starting point, a safe bet (besides the Griot BOSS polishing/correction creams) is the Meguiar's Ultimate Compound and Polish. They remain great for what they are, and there are some paints (like the new super-picky GM black) that do better with them that many of other "pro" products I have. And for pads (which is where the real money is spent, lol), Buff N Shine pads work really well with the HF unit. 5-5.5" would be my recommendation, try to stay with a smaller size to increase pressure potential which makes the relatively weak HF unit more effective and easier to wield! I still use the HF unit to do things like scrub really bad carpets (with a brush "pad").

Polish away! Oh and there's a Cobra surfacing pad that can do what clay bars do but on a more powerful level, and faster. There's a great excuse to break out the polisher more often than once a year.
 

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I can see where you were trying to be helpful, but ended up just coming across as a complete douche. That is unfortunate because there were some good points there.

FYI full-grain leathers (like my red leather seats on my Durango) need something more than wax. Bonded leathers, semi-aniline leathers, full-grain leathers, yeah they all have different requirements. So nothing is a catch-all.

Here's a useful tip from a pro - Optimum Opti Clean 2.0 + a 3:1 ratio with distilled or filtered water + a splash of isopropyl alcohol makes a really good interior cleaner.

OTC products are meant to just buy and go. They aren't bad, they are just fail-safe. Pretty much everything but Armor-All is acceptable, IMO and in my personal detailing experience.
Ha, your first line stole the words out of my mouth. I moderate a completely different kind of forum, and we have those kind of knuckleheads too. why do some folks have to call others stupid when giving advice?

It's like telling people that coffee shops don't buy 12oz bags of ground coffee to use in the store. Well, duh. Buy in bulk. For chemicals, if you can buy concentrated stuff and dilute, do it.

I don't have space to have 4-8 different gallon or 5 gallon sized containers sitting around. So, Chemical Bro's and Meguiars does the trick for me. Just can't go crazy with it or you're spending too much money. sometimes just good old soap and water works wonders too. UV light is a big deal, so whatever you can do to minimize the impact also helps.
 

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Many times more is not always better, in car detailing, this applies as well. Keep it simple, so you do it more often and it doesn't take you more time than it should.
 

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Wash with megs ultimate wash and micro fiber wash mit (2 bucket method)
Meguiars clay
Meguiars 205 With DA polisher
Meguiars wax #26 With DA polisher
Meguiars hot shine tire foam
Meguiars Ultimate quick detailer for the rims

This was not too long after I got her, had to remove the dealer installed swirl marks that were free of charge:mad: . She looks a bit different now but if figured I let everyone know my process. Obviously Im a Meguiars guy haha.



I need to give my girl a good claying, maybe a polish, and definitely a good wax.

I think this or next weekend, I'm going to be spending a few hours on her.
 

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It's Winter in New England - car will be dirty for a few months whether I like it or not :(
 

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This was a quick "snow melted get salt off car" wash.

Meguiars Ultimate wash & wax

Stoner Invisible Glass

Turtle Wax hard shell (all surfaces even glass)

Armor All Extreme Tire Shine

Eagle One Wipe & Shine (to wipe away wax dust and other small imperfections. )

When the temp warms up a little I'm going to strip the wax coating and fix some small scratches and get rid of the paint swirls and buff in a new wax coating.


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I've watched his videos on scratches and he basically just uses water and sandpaper, it works to an extent, but the problem is that you are also removing the surrounding clearcoat, this is unavoidable, unfortunately, but then you are left with a haze and you have to polish, if you do it wrong or don't know what you are doing, you won't be able to bring it back to shine and it will be left with that ugly haze. This is my fear.

I could go ahead and use the sandpaper method, but what happens if I can't make the haze go away?

I'm good when it comes to cleaning, waxing, washing, and all that stuff, but never really done any polishing work.

Should probably just pay an "expert" to do it. This car has a thin clearcoat to begin with. Live with a few scratches or remove the surrounding clear coat lol

that's the only way you are going to make the scratch disappear, you have remove the surrounding clearcoat, so it matches the area that has the scratch, similar to making a scratch on dirt with your foot, the only way to fix it and make it even, is to remove the surrounding dirt.
 

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This was a quick "snow melted get salt off car" wash.

Meguiars Ultimate wash & wax

Stoner Invisible Glass

Turtle Wax hard shell (all surfaces even glass)

Armor All Extreme Tire Shine

Eagle One Wipe & Shine (to wipe away wax dust and other small imperfections. )

When the temp warms up a little I'm going to strip the wax coating and fix some small scratches and get rid of the paint swirls and buff in a new wax coating.
If I may give some recommendations, young padawan

Meguiar Ultimate wash and wax, though, a great wash that has a nice smell, is not really worth the extra cost imo. You would be better off using the Meguiar Gold Class wash. It does not have "wax", but this wax that comes included in that wash is useless. That coat of wax will only last for 1 day at best. It is the same ripoff that car wash drive thrus get away with. They have these "wash and wax" options. It is not needed and it won't last.

You are better off maybe using Meguiar Quick wax and applying it right after drying the car, this will last 1 to 2 weeks and is a good addition between regular wax or synthetic.

Turtle wax hard shell serves its purposes, but is hard to apply and it will stain black plastic, it won't last as long as a synthetic either, but is affordable. I've used it. I would recommend you Meguiar Ultimate liquid wax. It is more expensive, but is a synthetic. It will last longer, it does not stain and it can be used in the sunlight. You don't have to use much either, so one bottle will last you for months and months.

Get rid of Armor Extreme shine. The problem with these tire shines, is that they are all made with SILICON, that's how they can get away with claiming that it can last up to 4 weeks, it can last almost that long, because silicon is very hard to remove. You have to use a degreaser to remove it properly. If you don't remove it properly, what happens then, more grime will stick to it, and the next week, you will apply another coat of tire shine, basically sealing the dirt on the tire.

This is the reason why you see so many brown tires on parking lots. Have you seen them? You are better off using a tire shine that is water based, like chemical guys or some others. It won't last as long as silicon ones, but that's the point, you are supposed to apply and remove it every week

https://www.chemicalguys.com/V_R_P_Super_Shine_Dressing_16_oz_p/tvd_107_16.htm
 
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