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Discussion Starter #241
It's finally starting to warm up. @danstheman7 any new tips?
Absolutely! Question is, are you going to be doing a full correction, or do you just want it to be nice and clean?

If you want to go for the slick look and smooth feel (and do it right), you should do:

-Full Rinse with Power Washer (paint and as much of the undercarriage as you can, to remove salt and attempt to prevent rust)
-2 Bucket Wash Method (Hand Wash)
(Inspect if a second wash is needed...most likely it will be if the car hasn't been washed within a week or two)
-Microfiber Hand Dry
-Clay Bar or Nanoskin Sponge (for the smooth paint feel and to prepare for wax)
-Machine or Hand Wax.

Since you will be waxing and/or correcting, use a soap like Dawn so any remaining wax or protection is removed.

I started correcting then sealing small areas of my car, doing a panel at a time (since I don't have 2 days to burn on doing the whole car). I've done my hood, and right rear passenger door.
@FusionGT What car care products do you have?
 

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Discussion Starter #243 (Edited)
I was actually thinking of, quite shortly, making a large purchase on Amazon for a number of the products you mentioned here. Most of my stuff unfortunately froze this winter and I'm going to need to completely start over my stash.
Just so you know, if your chemicals freeze, many of them just need to be agitated for 2-3 minutes and they'll be usable again. The separation may not go away with a few shakes but 2-3 minutes of shaking should do it. Now that won't work for 50% of chemicals, but at least you may be able to salvage some.

I haven't updated my car care wishlist on Amazon for a while...so what are you looking to purchase? If not specific products, what are the products for?

I've tried quite a few new products so I may be able to suggest better options.

In the meanwhile while I wait for your answer...I'll fix that Amazon list ;D

Edit: Put in usable order, added a product or two and removed a few.
 

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Thanks for this thread, very informative. Read all 25 pages tonight. Will be taking better care of my 2016 GT than I did the 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee I traded in which received a wash once every two weeks or so and waxed every year or two.
 

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Polishing exhaust tips

Finally got around to polishing the exhaust tips. If you're picky like me, you might notice the tips look a bit dull and cheap from the factory.

I used some 2000 grit sandpaper and Mothers MAG & Aluminum polish. You can get both from Walmart. Start with the 2000 grit, wet or dry, (I just sanded dry for the small amount of metal there is). Sanded in a straight, back and forth motion until I started seeing my reflection. Then polished with Mothers and a microfiber cloth, again in a back and forth motion. No hard rubbing necessary. You'll see the polish working when your cloth starts turning black. Then wipe off and buff with the clean side of towel. From start to finish, only took about half an hour.



Now they match the rest of the shiny chrome trim.
 

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Started on my DA polishing for the first time on this car. Getting great results with a Harbor Freight DA, green CG hex logic pad, and Meguiar's UC. I have Meg's Ult Polish and finishing pads too, but not sure if I'm going to do that step since the UC already finishes down nicely with this paint.





 

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Not on my mazda,but on my wife's old Rav4 i did apply optimum opti-guard after a full paint correct and i have some good things to say about its longevity. The water would bead even after 2 years, and dusting / doing rinseless washes were so much easier after the coating. There are much superior products that CQ Quartz in the market today, but when it comes to the bang for the buck, there is little to beat Optimum Optiguard/gloss and CQuartz. Goodluck and dont forget to wear a mask while applying.
 

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Subscribed. Seeing pics of the paint all detailed and shiny is going to make my decision much easier when it comes down to me picking a color for my 17'. I never even considered the red but it looks amazing!


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....man I need to buff my car soon. +1 for Mother's Chrome polish though - use that all the time on my OEM tips and they look amazing.
 

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Any of you have the white nappa leather interior? If so does it clean up pretty easy? Does it stain easy?


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Did my annual full car detail today. Here's what I used:

Wash:
Black Magic Wet Shine Concentrated Car Wash
Black Magic Aluminum Wheel Cleaner
Gunk Tar & Bug Remover
Microfiber sponge
Soft nylon rim & lugnut brush
Absorber chamois

Wax & Polish
Meguiars detail clay
Meguiars Quik Detailer (for clay lubricant)
Production Gemini Compound/Polishing Creme (cut and buffed with 6" orbitor)
Meguiars Caranuba Wax (hand applied and buffed)
Production Anti-Static Showroom Conditioner

Production is a local car care company that a lot of the locals swear by. I tried their products for the first time this year and I am impressed. The anti-static conditioner works great, as it prevents dust and other contaminants from being sucked into the wax job.

Exterior Detail:
Meguiars HotShine foam tire dressing
Meguiars Ultimate Black plastic restorer for the black molding
Purple Power Prime Shine auto glass cleaner

Interior Detail:
Luxol Leather & Vinyl Cleaner
Luxol Leather Conditioner
Black Magic ProShine Protectant
Tuff Stuff Multi-Purpose Foam Cleaner (for carpet spot removal)
 

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I hate this time of year, because it's hot and it rains almost daily. Impossible to keep my girl looking good. But, it's getting to be about time to give her a full wash, clay, wax.


I have clay bars, but has anyone tried those "clay" towels? I imagine it's not actually clay, but I'm not sure what it is using.
 

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I hate this time of year, because it's hot and it rains almost daily. Impossible to keep my girl looking good. But, it's getting to be about time to give her a full wash, clay, wax.


I have clay bars, but has anyone tried those "clay" towels? I imagine it's not actually clay, but I'm not sure what it is using.
I use surfacing mitts, and have tried a few but am currently enjoying the Cobra mitt. You can also get surfacing polishing discs which are very effective. I like doing the "clay" step during my wash. So I'll foam cannon the vehicle, let it dwell a bit, and then hit the paint with my wash mitt. Rinse quickly, and then go back over the same panel or two with my surfacing mitt, and then rinse that. Saves me quite a bit of time, not having to actually do a full separate clay step and the mitts are reusable when you drop them. Just clean them off in the wash bucket and you're back to good in no time. The last one I bought, I bought in a combo like this McKee's 37 Paint Clean Combo and that was nice. My previous one was a Chemical Guy's mitt and it lasted YEARS, and in fact it is still good, so if by chance someone is helping me wash down a car and we're tag-teaming it, I'll give them that mitt and its still fine. It just doesn't have quite the power it had when new.
 

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Most of you are spending way too much money on these overpriced products. They are made for the dumb consumer in mind, so they are already diluted, dumbed down, so the consumer doesn't screw anything up and sue the companies/give bad reviews. Not to mention you are mostly paying for the brand and shiny package, it cost them cents to manufacture the amount of product you get and they sell them at $6-12 a small bottle. All you need to clean the interior is an all purpose cleaner like Meguiar D101, which comes undiluted and it will last for an eternity. This along can clean the leather seats, dash, trim, steering, wheels, floor mats. Interior done. You don't need a leather conditioner and all that hype bullcrap, is all hype to sell to the dumb consumer

All new leather seats from today have a clearcoat type of protection on top of it, you aint conditioning anything or even touching the leather. All you need is to clean it, just like you clean your wheels or paint, you are better off putting clear wax on the seats, in fact, you are better off just tinting your windows and using a windshield cover

clay bar every 6 months, cheap clay bars can be found on the web, they are all the same, they will get dirty, you dont need a clay bar kit lol all it offers is the microfuber towel, bar and the some liquid, you can use water, you don't need to spend on a $7 liquid made for clay bar cleaning, it wont make any difference whatsoever at the end, it will look the same. If you are paranoid, the dilute the water with some car wash liquid.

wax every 4 months with some liquid wax, wash the car by hand if possible, or use the car wash, just a simple wash, most of car wash offers are upsells and crap, you dont need them

clean the wheels and tires with some wheel cleaner, dont have access to hose then use the car wash wheel options, better than nothing, you are still getting ripped off though

Do you think the pro detailers at shops and who go to you, use the products you buy at autzone? lol they are not idiots, they use wholesale undiluted products, which can only be bought online, not only are they much cheapers, but also more POTENT than the versions and similar products off shelves, for the reason I mentioned, they were dumbed down for the idiot consumer in mind. Detailers are not here to lose money, so they know whats up

Ask any detailers to see his products and you wont see any of the famous you guys use or have tried
 

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Most of you are spending way too much money on these overpriced products. They are made for the dumb consumer in mind, so they are already diluted, dumbed down, so the consumer doesn't screw anything up and sue the companies/give bad reviews. Not to mention you are mostly paying for the brand and shiny package, it cost them cents to manufacture the amount of product you get and they sell them at $6-12 a small bottle. All you need to clean the interior is an all purpose cleaner like Meguiar D101, which comes undiluted and it will last for an eternity. This along can clean the leather seats, dash, trim, steering, wheels, floor mats. Interior done. You don't need a leather conditioner and all that hype bullcrap, is all hype to sell to the dumb consumer

All new leather seats from today have a clearcoat type of protection on top of it, you aint conditioning anything or even touching the leather. All you need is to clean it, just like you clean your wheels or paint, you are better off putting clear wax on the seats, in fact, you are better off just tinting your windows and using a windshield cover

clay bar every 6 months, cheap clay bars can be found on the web, they are all the same, they will get dirty, you dont need a clay bar kit lol all it offers is the microfuber towel, bar and the some liquid, you can use water, you don't need to spend on a $7 liquid made for clay bar cleaning, it wont make any difference whatsoever at the end, it will look the same. If you are paranoid, the dilute the water with some car wash liquid.

wax every 4 months with some liquid wax, wash the car by hand if possible, or use the car wash, just a simple wash, most of car wash offers are upsells and crap, you dont need them

clean the wheels and tires with some wheel cleaner, dont have access to hose then use the car wash wheel options, better than nothing, you are still getting ripped off though

Do you think the pro detailers at shops and who go to you, use the products you buy at autzone? lol they are not idiots, they use wholesale undiluted products, which can only be bought online, not only are they much cheapers, but also more POTENT than the versions and similar products off shelves, for the reason I mentioned, they were dumbed down for the idiot consumer in mind. Detailers are not here to lose money, so they know whats up

Ask any detailers to see his products and you wont see any of the famous you guys use or have tried
I can see where you were trying to be helpful, but ended up just coming across as a complete douche. That is unfortunate because there were some good points there.

FYI full-grain leathers (like my red leather seats on my Durango) need something more than wax. Bonded leathers, semi-aniline leathers, full-grain leathers, yeah they all have different requirements. So nothing is a catch-all.

Here's a useful tip from a pro - Optimum Opti Clean 2.0 + a 3:1 ratio with distilled or filtered water + a splash of isopropyl alcohol makes a really good interior cleaner.

OTC products are meant to just buy and go. They aren't bad, they are just fail-safe. Pretty much everything but Armor-All is acceptable, IMO and in my personal detailing experience.
 

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I can see where you were trying to be helpful, but ended up just coming across as a complete douche. That is unfortunate because there were some good points there.

FYI full-grain leathers (like my red leather seats on my Durango) need something more than wax. Bonded leathers, semi-aniline leathers, full-grain leathers, yeah they all have different requirements. So nothing is a catch-all.

Here's a useful tip from a pro - Optimum Opti Clean 2.0 + a 3:1 ratio with distilled or filtered water + a splash of isopropyl alcohol makes a really good interior cleaner.

OTC products are meant to just buy and go. They aren't bad, they are just fail-safe. Pretty much everything but Armor-All is acceptable, IMO and in my personal detailing experience.
You haven't met this guy yet. He has a long history here, despite his current low post count. His handle is pure irony, not lost on me or others. Watch as this unfolds...

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