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Discussion Starter #1
Bit of a car noob so bear with me. First of all I have a 2008 6i, 2.3L. 3rd gear I noticed is not as powerful as it usually is. It feels sorta like if I were in 5th gear but only going like 25mph. I thought it may be a fluid issue so I did a transmission fluid and filter change today, but the problem persists (although shift shock is a thing of the past.) So I turn to my own thread instead of searching through ones that kinda match but not really. I can probably provide any information you might need, thanks in advance to anyone who even thinks about my issue.

P.s. no codes except the stat is stuck open. That's for a different day.
 

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Rally Racer
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Bit of a car noob so bear with me. First of all I have a 2008 6i, 2.3L. 3rd gear I noticed is not as powerful as it usually is. It feels sorta like if I were in 5th gear but only going like 25mph. I thought it may be a fluid issue so I did a transmission fluid and filter change today, but the problem persists (although shift shock is a thing of the past.) So I turn to my own thread instead of searching through ones that kinda match but not really. I can probably provide any information you might need, thanks in advance to anyone who even thinks about my issue.

P.s. no codes except the stat is stuck open. That's for a different day.

Have you replaced your trans fluid?

Drain and refill 3x seems to be a good way to go.
Use only recommended fluid, do it warm and cycle the gears before each drain.


3rd gear gets a lot of work and I suppose It would wear out before the rest but I'm no transmission expert.


I would gamble the $120 in the hopes of saving the transmission.


Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
@DrFeelGood
Yep, I've done a trans fluid change. Took the whole pan out and cleaned her up before I put in the third round of fluid. No more shift shock, but she's still underpowered in third. Thanks for the feedback
 

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@DrFeelGood
Yep, I've done a trans fluid change. Took the whole pan out and cleaned her up before I put in the third round of fluid. No more shift shock, but she's still underpowered in third. Thanks for the feedback

Of course... just thought I would mention it. In fact with dropping the pan you have done more than most.


I am guessing you are using the FS5A-EL (5-speed ATX) JATCO transmission. I have the same trans in my 2004 and it uses 3ed gear for everything. It seems to have a pathologic aversion to 2nd and will use 3rd all the way down to 6mph.


You may have worn out bands and your senses are telling you so before the computer has triggered its input/output RPM ratios to indicate as much.


I am pretty sure rebuilds are out of reach for most peoples sense of cost/benefit but you may be able to pick up a used one for relatively cheap.


If you are inclined mechanically here is a list of possible faults.




I may even have the Workshop manual on my work computer if you want to dive deep.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
@DrFeelGood
I appreciate you taking your time to help me with this, I would like to dive deeper. That manual would likely prove useful if you have it.
I just spent 4500 on this car and I want it in good shape. I believe I do have a FS5A-EL. What would the bands being worn mean for me? Would I have to replace them?
 

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Hello again. I am happy to help where I can but with automatics I am pretty deficient in knowledge. There are some pressure controlling items that I would imagine could affect this. I have seen several videos on worn clutch bands that sound like what you describe and they made the repair look easy but I know that one reversed piece and it all goes to the pot. There are a lot of little pieces.
You can see the various band packs in the diagram I included.
I will look for the manual next week when I return to my office.
Here are the part numbers.
(MNAO #) 9999-95-JA5A-EL
(Mazda #) 1727-1U-01L


 

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Discussion Starter #7
Hello again. I am happy to help where I can but with automatics I am pretty deficient in knowledge. There are some pressure controlling items that I would imagine could affect this. I have seen several videos on worn clutch bands that sound like what you describe and they made the repair look easy but I know that one reversed piece and it all goes to the pot. There are a lot of little pieces.
You can see the various band packs in the diagram I included.
I will look for the manual next week when I return to my office.
Here are the part numbers.
(MNAO #) 9999-95-JA5A-EL
(Mazda #) 1727-1U-01L
Hello Doctor, it has been a while. I don't suppose you have that manual?
 

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Hello Doctor, it has been a while. I don't suppose you have that manual?
PM sent


Also this: MPV Club

"2002 MPV ES with 68k miles

I resolved my transmission issue and am posting for others who may have a similar issue.

RE: Mazda6/MPV interchangeability of the FWD 5spd transmission (JA5A-EL / JF506E ).
- Mazda assigns a different part numbers to each although they share many of the same internal parts
- I could never determine the exact differences but since the Mazda6 version is $2k cheaper from the dealer I don't expect they are a direct swap

My problem was that when the trans shifted into 3rd gear it slipped and you couldn't accelerate enough to test 4th or 5th.

1st, 2nd and Reverse all seemed to work fine. If you drove in '2' it was fine but of course you can only go 40 mph tops. Fluid was a bit burnt.

I removed the driver's front wheel and upper/lower trans mount bolt so the transmission end cover could be removed and the High/Reverse drum extracted.
I found my reverse clutch and steels were completely burned but high clutches looked fine (High clutch operates 3rd, 4th and 5th gears). I dissasembled further and the other clutch packs all looked great.

VERY careful inspection showed the high piston had a hairline crack that allowed the fluid to drain from the high piston that rides inside it. This allowed the reverse piston to partially engage the reverse clutch pack when it shifted into 3rd (or 4th/5th) and burned it up.

I found cracks in the reverse/high pistons are very common in these transmissions (check the same trans used in Jags) so I replaced both pistons (with updated versions) + seals and reverse clutches/steels, reassembled and all now works great.

Cost was $120 in parts + $33 in fluid to flush the entire system.

Note: You are able to disassemble the majority of the internal components through the end cover + remove the valve body via the front cover WITHOUT removing the transmission from the car. It is detailed work but far cheaper than paying the dealer $3500 + install cost for a complete replacement I didn't need."
 
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