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Discussion Starter #1
Well - I can’t post a pic because I am a noob I guess - on a 24hr test drive of a 2014 GT - black on black - 67k miles.

Someone butchered the sweet GTbwheels trying to paint themselves, plus some road rash - we’ll have those professionally fixed.

This will be our son’s 16th bday present and his first car ... while we have it for a day, any suggestions?

We plan to get him a Mazda6, we like the 2016&up better of course, but out of budget for his first.

I drove it 50 miles so far - it has a vibration at low speed only, at highway it’s smooth as glass... hard or soft breaking it’s perfect... I can’t figure out if low speed vibration is CV or warped rotor (I can fix either myself, I am just not sure what it is)

Interior is immaculate - I don’t think anyone ever sat in the passenger nor rear seats, nor did they ever put anything in the trunk.

Speaker covers on dash are a little warped or pulled up - not sure if the PO put in after market or not - but if we buy, after we fix the rims, we do play to upgrade all speakers

The headlights don’t match the fog lights - color - so, I assume there is a fix for that in the non-n00b forums?

I wish I could post a pic, sorry
 

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Welcome to the forum!

Sorry about the silly noob rules we have in place. This place got hammered by spambots a couple years back and the forum owners locked it down hard to try and prevent it.

Sounds like you found a pretty good car besides some crappy aftermarket "mods" from the previous owner. The fogs don't match the headlights out of the box because, if you're using fogs for their intended purposes, they work better in the 3000k - 4500k range than 5000k and up.
 

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Well - we bought it. But we won’t be giving it to our son for a month - so It’s off getting full service, detail, window tint, and an estimate for some minor scratch fixes.

Then next week to either have the GT wheels on it repaired/repainted, or we’re looking at some after market options.

I regret that it has the Bose sound system - because doing after market upgrades looks annoying - I suppose it sounds fine for now - but I am sure my son will want to upgrade it and add a sub eventually.

Where is the “first time Mazda owner” forum - with tips on things to keep an eye out for? Lol
 

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I would change the ATX fluid and filter. I like 50k mile intervals on that for both ATX and MTX. ATXs are gawd-awful expensive if/when they fail, fluid and filters are cheap. Don't believe for a second that "lifetime" fluid means any longer than the life of the now-dead transmission. This is a "must use Mazda's fluid" deal as well.

Other than that, and routine stuff (e.g. oil filter and changes; use the Mazda filter) there's not much. They're remarkably stable vehicles in terms of not needing anything special when it comes to maintenance and similar.

At 100k I would change both stretchy and serpentine belts; they're cheap and if you break either you'll be quite annoyed changing them on the side of the road. The stretchy belt drives the water pump; break THAT one and you're stopping NOW, not when you find a convenient place. I would also do the coolant since you'll be at ~5 years as well around that point; use FL-22 (it's on the cap.) In addition plugs are something I've done at 60k twice but frankly they were probably good for 100.
 

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I would change the ATX fluid and filter. I like 50k mile intervals on that for both ATX and MTX. ATXs are gawd-awful expensive if/when they fail, fluid and filters are cheap. Don't believe for a second that "lifetime" fluid means any longer than the life of the now-dead transmission. This is a "must use Mazda's fluid" deal as well.

Other than that, and routine stuff (e.g. oil filter and changes; use the Mazda filter) there's not much. They're remarkably stable vehicles in terms of not needing anything special when it comes to maintenance and similar.

At 100k I would change both stretchy and serpentine belts; they're cheap and if you break either you'll be quite annoyed changing them on the side of the road. The stretchy belt drives the water pump; break THAT one and you're stopping NOW, not when you find a convenient place. I would also do the coolant since you'll be at ~5 years as well around that point; use FL-22 (it's on the cap.) In addition plugs are something I've done at 60k twice but frankly they were probably good for 100.
I'm with tickerguy for all his recommendations. I drank the "lifetime fluid" Kool-Aid until 80K miles and decided to change it and I'm glad I did. The amount of metal particulate on the pan magnet was terrible and fluid was definitely at the stage of needing changed. I did not use the OEM fluid, instead I used the Valvoline ATF Max-Life. I noticed improved shifting after changing fluid and filter.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Had it a few days ... new tint, alignment, new front rotors, brake pads all around, rim curb rash repaired and all repainted, headlight lenses polished...

Will look at the atx fluid change.

It still has the rattle when cold and in reverse I haven’t had time to figure out.

Hope to give it to him soon.

(Yes, that is my ‘69 Bronco in the garage)
 

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Speaker dash cover will warp overtime if car is always park in direct sunlight, Mines are warped on my dash took only 4 years for it to happen, never touched them when I bought the car new from the dealership 5 years ago.
 

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I finally found what I was looking for... an SAE Paper (2001-01-0867) on the impacts of ATF cleanliness on A/T life expectancy. I tried to attach it... but at 962 kB it did not let me. It is located here, though:

http://citeseerx.ist.psu.edu/viewdoc/download;jsessionid=9B1E5D3A42246E31489678CF014705D2?doi=10.1.1.547.4083&rep=rep1&type=pdf

I attach below, just a snapshot of the first page of the article.

A bit dry-reading, i.e. a scholarly article, but in my view something that really corroborates the whole claim of why we want really low-micron filtration for an A/T.

Swarf circulating in the ATF wears the valve body out, it wears out the rolling-element bearings... roller, ball, and Torrington, it worsens the wear of the steels, etc...

We all want to maximize A/T life... as they are expensive to fix... and in some cases, upon failure - they efffectively "total" a car from an economic perspective.
 

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Well - we bought it. But we won’t be giving it to our son for a month - so It’s off getting full service, detail, window tint, and an estimate for some minor scratch fixes.

Then next week to either have the GT wheels on it repaired/repainted, or we’re looking at some after market options.

I regret that it has the Bose sound system - because doing after market upgrades looks annoying - I suppose it sounds fine for now - but I am sure my son will want to upgrade it and add a sub eventually.

Where is the “first time Mazda owner” forum - with tips on things to keep an eye out for? Lol
Lucky son, I would say!
 

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I finally found what I was looking for... an SAE Paper (2001-01-0867) on the impacts of ATF cleanliness on A/T life expectancy. I tried to attach it... but at 962 kB it did not let me. It is located here, though:

http://citeseerx.ist.psu.edu/viewdoc/download;jsessionid=9B1E5D3A42246E31489678CF014705D2?doi=10.1.1.547.4083&rep=rep1&type=pdf

I attach below, just a snapshot of the first page of the article.

A bit dry-reading, i.e. a scholarly article, but in my view something that really corroborates the whole claim of why we want really low-micron filtration for an A/T.

Swarf circulating in the ATF wears the valve body out, it wears out the rolling-element bearings... roller, ball, and Torrington, it worsens the wear of the steels, etc...

We all want to maximize A/T life... as they are expensive to fix... and in some cases, upon failure - they efffectively "total" a car from an economic perspective.
Thanks for the link. I wanted to install a Magnefine transmission filter to the vehicle to filter better than the basic paper element one sitting above the pan. Unfortunately there are no external oil lines to tap into like many vehicles. Ours only have lines with coolant running through the transmission. If anyone has come across an aftermarket transmission filter that filters much smaller particulate, let me know. The Magnefine filter is definitely going on our Jeep when I change the transmission oil in that.
 

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Had it a few days ... new tint, alignment, new front rotors, brake pads all around, rim curb rash repaired and all repainted, headlight lenses polished...

Will look at the atx fluid change.

It still has the rattle when cold and in reverse I haven’t had time to figure out.

Hope to give it to him soon.

(Yes, that is my ‘69 Bronco in the garage)
Would like to salute you for being an awesome dad.
 

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Thanks for the link. I wanted to install a Magnefine transmission filter to the vehicle to filter better than the basic paper element one sitting above the pan. Unfortunately there are no external oil lines to tap into like many vehicles. Ours only have lines with coolant running through the transmission. If anyone has come across an aftermarket transmission filter that filters much smaller particulate, let me know. The Magnefine filter is definitely going on our Jeep when I change the transmission oil in that.
Maybe I am misunderstanding you, above.... but the transmission fluid runs to the radiator... and within the radiator there is a cooling loop that is immersed in the coolant. It both warms up the ATF... and it limits the max ATF temp, albeit to a pretty high level. Those are the lines that you would want to intercept with a filter.

The other couple/three points I should like to make is that i) not all of the "swarf" that circulates is metallic... i.e. which would become attached to a magnet. Some of the swarf is friction material from the clutches and bands... and so maybe the Magnefine would not be optimal, on that account; ii) the Magnefine (or any other in-line filter) indeed, if the Magnefine has filter media inside of it HAS TO be a coarse-enough filtration filter that it will not unduly plug up (lest it then totally cut off any cooling that the transmission needs and the oil source through the cooling lines that likely feeds another circuit or a bearing). So an in-line filter cannot be a tight-media filter. Only a bypass filter can be. Which leads me to point iii):

iii) that referenced SAE paper (and indeed, all other sources related to super-filtration of ATF) refer to the tight-media filter being operated in bypass. Then, when inevitably the super-filter plugs up... it does no damage to the A/T. Please see the attached graphic... which shows the bypass arrangement. Note that, say, a 5% bypass rate, if that, in NO TIME FLAT cleans up ALL of the fluid to a super-low micron level.
 

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Thanks for the link. I wanted to install a Magnefine transmission filter to the vehicle to filter better than the basic paper element one sitting above the pan. Unfortunately there are no external oil lines to tap into like many vehicles. Ours only have lines with coolant running through the transmission. If anyone has come across an aftermarket transmission filter that filters much smaller particulate, let me know. The Magnefine filter is definitely going on our Jeep when I change the transmission oil in that.
Maybe I am misunderstanding you, above.... but the transmission fluid runs to the radiator... and within the radiator there is a cooling loop that is immersed in the coolant. It both warms up the ATF... and it limits the max ATF temp, albeit to a pretty high level. Those are the lines that you would want to intercept with a filter.

The other couple/three points I should like to make is that i) not all of the "swarf" that circulates is metallic... i.e. which would become attached to a magnet. Some of the swarf is friction material from the clutches and bands... and so maybe the Magnefine would not be optimal, on that account; ii) the Magnefine (or any other in-line filter) indeed, if the Magnefine has filter media inside of it HAS TO be a coarse-enough filtration filter that it will not unduly plug up (lest it then totally cut off any cooling that the transmission needs and the oil source through the cooling lines that likely feeds another circuit or a bearing). So an in-line filter cannot be a tight-media filter. Only a bypass filter can be. Which leads me to point iii):

iii) that referenced SAE paper (and indeed, all other sources related to super-filtration of ATF) refer to the tight-media filter being operated in bypass. Then, when inevitably the super-filter plugs up... it does no damage to the A/T. Please see the attached graphic... which shows the bypass arrangement. Note that, say, a 5% bypass rate, if that, in NO TIME FLAT cleans up ALL of the fluid to a super-low micron level.
The magnefine is designed to bypass flow of “plugged” up. Plus I would plan to do fluid replacements regularly anyways.

If you look up the service manual you will see that there are “coolant filled” lines running to an oil cooler mounted on the transmission. It actually states that you must drain the coolant to replace these lines. When I was under and around the transmission I did not see any other external lines running from it.
 

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Exactly. I’m in full agreement that changing it frequently is prudent. Fluid is cheap so I may do it as often as 30k for peace of mind, plus I really enjoy maintaining this vehicle.
 
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