Mazda 6 Forums banner

1 - 5 of 5 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
i'm about to meet with the owner of this 224k mile mazda 6, so that I can buy it as a college beater. What common issues should I be looking for when I take a look? Not super familiar with these cars other than an 08' 6 speed MS3 my father owned and I fell in love with.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
771 Posts
Does your state require inspections? If it has a valid sticker that's a very good sign. My state has a pretty thorough inspection process (luckily no emissions testing though) and if it's stickered, it's probably good to go.

Checking for rust would be the major issue if you live in a salty area. Wheel wells, subframe, suspension parts all need to looked at really close. If those are good and the engine sounds healthy and has no CEL and the test drive goes well, go for it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Does your state require inspections? If it has a valid sticker that's a very good sign. My state has a pretty thorough inspection process (luckily no emissions testing though) and if it's stickered, it's probably good to go.

Checking for rust would be the major issue if you live in a salty area. Wheel wells, subframe, suspension parts all need to looked at really close. If those are good and the engine sounds healthy and has no CEL and the test drive goes well, go for it.
Good point. Gonna grab the in for a carfax, but what about the timing chain? Anything with that I should be worried about, or the 5 speed manual transmission? I know manuals last a while but surely not forever
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
771 Posts
Nope, the 4-cyl. engines from this period are extremely well made and not known for timing chain failure. If you don't hear, see or smell anything odd from it, it should be good til 300k anyway. Same goes for the manual tranny, IMO. If it feels nice and tight and doesn't slip or grind, then good to go.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
For some reason I can only see the picture of the engine. It looks OK in that one. Drive it over rail road tracks and listen for clunks in the suspension. Examine all four tires for uneven or unusual tread wear patterns. make sure all the lights and electrical devices work. Make sure the spare and tire changing tools are there. Also, if the car has wheel locks make sure the key that fits over the locks is there. And check the CV boots to see if they are torn; if they are that could lead to premature CV joint failure.

When I buy a used car I immediately change the engine oil and coolant and the transmission fluid. Cheap insurance.
 
1 - 5 of 5 Posts
Top