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Another company steps up with a 20" tire that has a load rating that is high enough for the 6

Kumho ECSTA SPT
(Ultra High Performance Summer)

Size: 225/35ZR20
Serv. Desc: 90Y

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/Compare1.jsp...;x=110&y=11[/b]
I checked my user manual and double checked and the US spec 6 requires a load rating of 91. And yes, I have read this thread and your last post. According to Mazda, that tire is NOT sufficient enough for the 6.

I did read through post 220, I understand what you mean about the 33lb difference, but thats what a threshold is. There has to be some point where Mazda says "this weight is not sufficient" and they draw the line. That tire is below the line even though it is a 90 and not a 91. Mazda engineers didnt sit in a circle poking each other with sticks and flipped a coin to decide between 90 and 91. If you think 90 is ok, then why not 89 or 88? What if you are only 5'2 and weigh 105 lbs and never travel with passengers, dont have subs in your car, removed the spare tire and Bose sub, and passenger and back seats.... then would an 86 be ok?

If you choose to put it on your car, thats perfectly fine, however when people correctly post what is written in our auto's manual and what is published by Mazda, please dont tell them they are incorrect because you made some calculations. They are just posting to warn tire noobs who think that 20s look cool and technically that load rating was not sufficent for Mazda.

We are just trying to educate and help out noobs as to what the published specs on our car are. If you dont believe the thresholds, then thats fine, but technically you are incorrect, not them. If you choose to use that tire and you dont have problems with it, thats fine. Its your car and you can do whatever you want to do with it. Some of us are just trying to post the safety specs that MAZDA, not some guy on the internet, came up with.

Also, why technically the 225/35R20 size doesnt fall within the -2/+3% of OEM specs, its right on the border. Therefore, although it doesnt meet the spec, its the closest size 20 tire to meeting the spec. However, still to my knowledge, there isnt a tire made in 225/35/R20 size with a load rating of 91. And as I posted the same exact thing in this thread months ago, if there is a tire in the market in that size that meets the spec, please post it as I do not keep up with 20 inch tires to know if a new one came to the market.

So to my knowledge, when people still post that technically it is STILL unsafe (according to Mazda's specs) to put 20s on the car, they are still technically correct as it falls outside Mazda's listed threshold. I dont know 100%, but Im guessing that the reason Tire Guy put that in the sticky was INCASE a member HAD TO HAVE 20s, he would put the closest possible thing to the Mazda published spec. We understand that some members are going to put on 20s no matter what the safety precautions, so we want to make sure that they are as close to safe as possible and dont get a tire with the wrong size that falls outside the -2/+3% greatly with a load rating in the 80s. But we also want them to understand the numbers part of the game and for the to understand what they are putting on their car.

Bottom line: If you are going to put 20s on your car, although these technically dont meet spec, these are the safest way to go.... but I definately wouldnt advertise them as "good". Good doesnt mean "it barely fails".

PS: Your car is very tastefully done and while I would never put 19 or 20s on my car, at least yours go with the theme of your car and arent a gaudy chrome looking mess and for LOOKS purposes only, looks good.
 

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I checked my user manual and double checked and the US spec 6 requires a load rating of 91. And yes, I have read this thread and your last post. According to Mazda, that tire is NOT sufficient enough for the 6.[/b]
I didn't want to copy your whole post, but I do see what you are saying, and I do agree..

And I don't care where you went to school 90 does not equal 91. :slap:

I do however trust what Tire Guy (AKA. Toyo Guy) said about being able to adjust air pressure to make up for this.
and I do still say that Mazda has a lot more than 33lbs factored in for a safety margin, and I also know that me personaly
would NEVER be anywhere near the weight limits of the Mazda, so fo me the 33 lbs in not an issue..

Thanks for the compliment on the car.. :)

OK... Disclaimer time :laugh:

*The views of this thread were made by the poster and are in no way
affiliated with this site, (or any sane person..)
If you are a noob PLEASE do your research and know what you are
getting into before making any changes to your Mazda 6..*
 

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Well at the OEM I work for, we allow 50lbs reserve when making tire load calculations. I wouldn't call that "a lot" more than 33lbs.

Also remember that the front of the car weighs a lot more than the back. Mazda likely also assumes that you're not going to pile a couple hundred pounds on the hood and go driving around. So when they create the GAWR ratings they do it by putting in passengers and stuff in the trunk. Well pretty much all the weight in the trunk goes on the back axle and most of the back seat passengers does too. The front seats are right about in the middle of the car, so essentially the front GAWR rating is the curb weight plus half the front seat people weight.

So when you say you will NEVER come near the weight limit of your car, guess what, with two 200lb people in the front seat you are already just about there. Even when fully loaded, the front axle still has a higher load than the rear.

On the other side of the equation though is the fact that Mazda likely specs the load rating based on the combination of car with the HIGHEST load rating, so that they can use a common tire. So that 50lb reserve likely only applies to a V6 with all the options. An I4 is about 100lbs lighter on the front axle, so there's another 50lbs right there.

The OEMs have to provide load ratings such that tires will NEVER have a problem. If you want to use a lower load rating, you'll likely be fine about 99% of the time. That's not good enough for the OEMs, but if that's good enough for you, then go for it.
 

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Well at the OEM I work for, we allow 50lbs reserve when making tire load calculations. I wouldn't call that "a lot" more than 33lbs.

Also remember that the front of the car weighs a lot more than the back. Mazda likely also assumes that you're not going to pile a couple hundred pounds on the hood and go driving around. So when they create the GAWR ratings they do it by putting in passengers and stuff in the trunk. Well pretty much all the weight in the trunk goes on the back axle and most of the back seat passengers does too. The front seats are right about in the middle of the car, so essentially the front GAWR rating is the curb weight plus half the front seat people weight.

So when you say you will NEVER come near the weight limit of your car, guess what, with two 200lb people in the front seat you are already just about there. Even when fully loaded, the front axle still has a higher load than the rear.

On the other side of the equation though is the fact that Mazda likely specs the load rating based on the combination of car with the HIGHEST load rating, so that they can use a common tire. So that 50lb reserve likely only applies to a V6 with all the options. An I4 is about 100lbs lighter on the front axle, so there's another 50lbs right there.

The OEMs have to provide load ratings such that tires will NEVER have a problem. If you want to use a lower load rating, you'll likely be fine about 99% of the time. That's not good enough for the OEMs, but if that's good enough for you, then go for it.[/b]

i've read a lot of this thread, and there is a lot to f-in read. but i personally do like the way 20's fill the wheel well. however. i'm not a fan of blowin out my tires especially since i live in the shithole that is michigan. the only reason i was considering 20's is cause next year i'm going to put on a custom widebody kit. if i'm going with wider tires will they meet OEM load ratings? i don't know much when it comes to tires. if not, i want some wide 19's. information would be nice. ridicule... that will probably be what i get instead seeing how this thread has unravelled. ha ha! what a funny play on words. lame.
 

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i've read a lot of this thread, and there is a lot to f-in read. but i personally do like the way 20's fill the wheel well. however. i'm not a fan of blowin out my tires especially since i live in the shithole that is michigan. the only reason i was considering 20's is cause next year i'm going to put on a custom widebody kit. if i'm going with wider tires will they meet OEM load ratings? i don't know much when it comes to tires. if not, i want some wide 19's. information would be nice. ridicule... that will probably be what i get instead seeing how this thread has unravelled. ha ha! what a funny play on words. lame.[/b]
If you are serious about the widebody, I would get the widebody kit first and then fit tires on it. How wide of a tire you get and the offset of the rim you choose is going to depend on your widebody kit and what can fit. It makes no sense to get a wheel and tire now, especially in 20s which are going to probably cost you a good chunk of change, when you are going to get a widebody kit in a year.
 

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Don't know how wide of a tire you'll be able to fit with the widebody, but overall diameter-wise:

265/30R19
275/30R19
285/30R19

all work (are the proper o.d. and have enough load rating, assuming reinforced).
 

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Don't know how wide of a tire you'll be able to fit with the widebody, but overall diameter-wise:

265/30R19
275/30R19
285/30R19

all work (are the proper o.d. and have enough load rating, assuming reinforced).[/b]

excellent! thank you guys mucho grande.

about the widebody thing. yeah. i know. i'm really bummed i can't get my wheels now. but i wanted to just "research" that stuff now. so i can try to find a damn place in michigan that does good custom work. and moneywise, widebody has to be next year, so in turn wheels have to be next year.
 

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Are safe load ratings calculated statically for a car parked in your driveway or dynamically out on the road where forces acting at each corner of the vehicle can be much greater? Regardless, it won't be long before there are tires with the proper load requirements. As long as there is a market, someone will find a way. Want a laugh? Look at those full page ads for the Falken FK452 in car magazines, down to 25 series!
I can't remember where, and of course for performance reasons, I heard Porsche has a wheel that is hollowed out to increase the volume of air necessary for higher load ratings.
 

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Hey I recon if it fits its cool...
I am from South Africa and our version comes out standard with 17"s(225/45/17) and they seem WAY too small.
Although I think 19"s will fit best, then one wont have to roll the fenders or have turning probs with the wheels touching the wheel wells.
But as long as it suits the car and he likes it he should do it...
And so that it doesnt look to high of the ground he should put on a bodykit which will help it to look more normal...
And look at the bright side of it... he wont have problems going over bumps or kerbs and damaging bodykits or body work(bumpers) anymore...
I think this car would look awesome after xzibit having done his magic to it... thats what dreams are made of... stop hating, all of you would love sound,custom paint job, rims,performance.... and it doesnt burn your pockets... and is always eye pleasing at the end!!!
 

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I understand that a lot of owners on this site are all about performance. I love performance but let's face it there isn't much you out for our 6's right now for serious gains so some people would rather get a little gain and go more for looks. Yeah there's a turbo out that a few people in the world have and nobody knows how long it lasts and how much tuning is involved, it's just a lot of guessing and money. Most of the performance is bolt-ons and you can only gain so much even if you tune your computer. I currently have 19" Konig Troubles, 19 X 8 with a 225/35-19 tire. For those of you who think you know it all these wheels do not rub or anything. They weigh 26.4 LBS. and my car is lowered with the Tein H-Tech springs with factory shocks. 20's will fit but like someone said the load rating may not be correct but I've researched a lot of wheels and the best one's that I have seen to fit on the 6 is the Konig Tuner 2 and Motegi DP6. These wheels are skinny, 20 X 7.5 and the offset is a +45 ehich is not to far off from the factory offset. The tire would be a 225/30-20 which has a load rating of 90. My point is stop downgrading and thinking everyone who wants 20's is being ghetto fabulous because I have one of the cleanest 6's around in my town and at the Hot Import Nights and Nopi I could've won last year but I was in Iraq. Just tell people wheels that you know fit and stop downgrading because when i pull up to a 6 with little azz 16's or 17's and smoke the brakes off of them and their mad because they thought they were going way faster because their wheels were smaller and lighter than mine I laugh. Not trying to start a controversy, JUST TIRED OF PEOPLE SAYING NO AND IT'S STUPID. It's stupid if you get the 20's that don't fit your car right and too gaudy, I'm getting either silver or black and it will present a clean look. Don't get mad at me just be a little more corteous to the people on the site asking legitimate questions. Thanks!
 

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Are safe load ratings calculated statically for a car parked in your driveway or dynamically out on the road where forces acting at each corner of the vehicle can be much greater?[/b]
Dynamically, IIRC.
 

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:barf: yuck!!!!! those are both ugly as all hell!!!![/b]
ya i would have 2 agree. I think i just threw up n my mouth
 

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all i know is that someone will need a fender roller sometime. if you need one PM me.
it all depends on how wide ther tires are and the offset. ive seen 20 that fit, but they didnt look good on the car because it wasnt lowered or it didnt have a body kit.
if u want 20's to look good you should have more looks on your car, cause it looks weird when all your car has its 20's. and looks like an SUV.
 

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To educate newbies that 20" is not a good idea.[/b]
Man, o man I'm in trouble. See I went out and baught a MS6 before joining these forums. I wanted RIMs and ordered from WheelTec, a Mazda vendor. I picked out some based on looks, they guy says what size? I say, what size is best for that car? he says "whatever you like", um you think 20's will be ok? Yeah 20's are fine. I said, will it hamper performance much, he's like no, just a stiffer ride. So I say, ok fine give me 20's.


Then I find this thread!!

Now what the #[email protected]$ do I do.

I think I've read that 20's suck, get max 19's and width has to be 7.5" I never thoght I'd make it to the end of this thread.

So I guess the wheels I ordered wont fit huh?

http://www.wheeltec.com/catalog_detail.php...earch_str=black



Specs
18x8.5, 18x10, 19x8.5, 19x10, 20x8.5, 20x10
Black w/ stainless lip



Help the newb out. I think I'll call dealer and tell them I wont take the car unless they change it to 19's. but the width's on those are 8.5"
 
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