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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Has anyone taken to the dealership yet?
Sadly I have no updates. I was hopeful, but no one has really offered any insight in the land of Mazda.

My service manager got hardly any feed back from Mazda. Only way this is getting found is it we find the way to replicate it in demand. I have not had another occurrence since posting this. I've been trying to purposely get it to do it, no luck.

Bummer
 

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Just an update. Took my car in for 10,000 mile oil change, mentioned to service advisor about the problem since it was only 3hr before they close, the service advisor told me to go for a test drive with him to see if there really was a problem since the they wouldnt have enough time to test drive with the oil change service. After the test drive with him, service advisor confirmed there were those clunky noises that coming from transmission and he told me to left the car till the next day. Got a text the next morning from the advisor saying that a master technician scanned for code as well as test drove a few time and confirmed that the sound is normal operation of the vehicle. I came to pick up my car and ask to test drive with that same technician. Miraculously the sound was gone, no more clunky or bucking at all, just a very slight clunk tho but not all the time like it used to. Been a week now and really the problem is gone only a slight clunk once in a while. So I'm not sure if scanning for code or changing oil or maybe because the car is 10,000 miles now somehow fixed the problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Just an update. Took my car in for 10,000 mile oil change, mentioned to service advisor about the problem since it was only 3hr before they close, the service advisor told me to go for a test drive with him to see if there really was a problem since the they wouldnt have enough time to test drive with the oil change service. After the test drive with him, service advisor confirmed there were those clunky noises that coming from transmission and he told me to left the car till the next day. Got a text the next morning from the advisor saying that a master technician scanned for code as well as test drove a few time and confirmed that the sound is normal operation of the vehicle. I came to pick up my car and ask to test drive with that same technician. Miraculously the sound was gone, no more clunky or bucking at all, just a very slight clunk tho but not all the time like it used to. Been a week now and really the problem is gone only a slight clunk once in a while. So I'm not sure if scanning for code or changing oil or maybe because the car is 10,000 miles now somehow fixed the problem.
Hi there. I wanted to follow-up and see if this still fixed your issue, or if the issue has come back. Thanks.
 

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Anyone find out if there has been any PCM or TCM updates for the 2018 yet? I've had mine since last April and definitely notice that same bucking/jerking in heavy sub 20mph stop and go freeway jams as well as parking lot maneuvering (as well as some other possible transmission quirks). :/
 

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Hey guys,

So weird issue here and wanted to see if anyone else has this going on. I've got the 2018 Signature, bought it brand new earlier this year and since have 10k miles on it. I can count pretty much one hand how many times this has happened, so it's almost impossible to replicate, but when creeping through a parking lot at like 10-15mph, the car starts to buck back and forth - almost like the tranny can't figure out what gear it wants to be in

Using the paddle shifters force the gear doesn't seem to fix the problem, but I'm not really sure. It happens with such rarity, it's difficult to figure out specifically what is going on.

Any experience/thoughts on this?

Thanks guys
I have the same issue with my 2018 Mazda 6 grand Touring. Since 5K miles (now 20K) I have brought it to the dealership 5 times now and since they can't duplicate it, there is nothing they can do. It bucks and jerks in all gears and can't find a pattern or anything to it. It doesn't do it every week but maybe month to every other month. I use chevron gas. I feel it is a computer issue, I have had the screen just black out, the car suddenly locks the brakes as the camera sees a car 1 car length ahead to be to close suddenly (guy behind me in a Dodge 3500 was traveling close and then swerved to miss me and landed in a ditch breaking his axle). When any of these issues happen, as soon as I turn the motor off and restart the car, everything is good again. Again Mazda USA and the service department can't do anything cause they can't duplicate it (even though I drove it to them when it was bucking, they left it on for an hour and still was doing it in and out of gear (not as bad out of gear), the service advisor witness it but the technician turned it off and then said he couldn't duplicate the issue- when I told them as soon as they turn it off it resets the clock in a matter of speaking) which the computer is supposed to save error messages up to three turn on cycles but there is no record of anything. I am frustrated with this and they will not do anything about it and I can't do anything about it as my credit is low now. I haven't got anywhere with this...Is there any fix or ideas on this yet?
 
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I have the same issue with my 2018 Mazda 6 grand Touring. Since 5K miles (now 20K) I have brought it to the dealership 5 times now and since they can't duplicate it, there is nothing they can do. It bucks and jerks in all gears and can't find a pattern or anything to it. It doesn't do it every week but maybe month to every other month. I use chevron gas. I feel it is a computer issue, I have had the screen just black out, the car suddenly locks the brakes as the camera sees a car 1 car length ahead to be to close suddenly (guy behind me in a Dodge 3500 was traveling close and then swerved to miss me and landed in a ditch breaking his axle). When any of these issues happen, as soon as I turn the motor off and restart the car, everything is good again. Again Mazda USA and the service department can't do anything cause they can't duplicate it (even though I drove it to them when it was bucking, they left it on for an hour and still was doing it in and out of gear (not as bad out of gear), the service advisor witness it but the technician turned it off and then said he couldn't duplicate the issue- when I told them as soon as they turn it off it resets the clock in a matter of speaking) which the computer is supposed to save error messages up to three turn on cycles but there is no record of anything. I am frustrated with this and they will not do anything about it and I can't do anything about it as my credit is low now. I haven't got anywhere with this...Is there any fix or ideas on this yet?
Sounds like it is software related. All the dealership needs to do is simply reflash the gearbox and that should help. They are so incompetent at doing the job it's no wonder why I never went there for any service even when I was under warranty.

Do you experience the bucking and jerking when you're at a stop and very gently apply the throttle? say, shifting into second gear at like 1500RPM?

You have the auto gearbox, right?
 

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I have also experienced this a couple of times now. Have taken some videos. Will be noting it on every service visit. IMO it's 100% software related, I just don't know if ECM or PCM.

Symptoms same as everyone else. Low speed bucking, violent at times. When it's tempermental it also happens at a dead stop when in D. Feels like the car is trying to go even though you're on the brakes. Or when foot is off the brake, as mentioned by others,feels like driving stick too slow in too low of a gear without putting the clutch in.

If the car is stationary and bucking (Like a hwy off ramp) I can alleviate the bucking by popping it in neutral. Engine revs still bounce though. Put it back in D to take off and the car will drive but it still bucks at low speed / slight hesitation at medium speeds.

There is one way to resolve it. Turn it off and on again. That's not a joke just because I work in IT....

If it's happening I can pull over, stop, put it in park or neutral, turn the engine off and immediately turn it back on and all is well with the world again - right away. And won't return for a few more days / weeks / whenever.

I've started taking a short clip with my cell phone everytime. Only consistency I've found is it's always happened to me on the tail end of my 1hr+ commute. Coming off the hwy warm into lower speed traffic. Or into a traffic jam from hwy speeds. And will remain until I restart the engine.

I think it's been mild out when it's happened to me, between 0 and 10 C. Not cold, not overly warm. Can't 100% confirm that yet though. Will try and see if I can get one of my vids up.
 

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Sounds like the torque converter is being locked at an inappropriately-low RPM and power output, much like you can get bucking in a manual if creeping along (for the same reason.) That's a software issue -- good luck getting Mazda to do anything with changing it unless they verify that it's happening and that they think it's a "problem."
 

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So did my 2017, I had to replace transmission at 83,000 miles not sure if relatd but it was the only thing that stood out different
 

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Currently at the dealer for oil change. I happened to have a fresh video from this last week. Showed it happening, popping into neutral (can't tell but the bucking stops, revs continue to bounce) and then restart the car and everything is rock solid again. They have recorded my complaints on paper and put a Sr. tech onto it, who to their credit came out to me to get clarification and watch the video with me.

The tech connected it and of course found nothing wrong at this time. To his credit, he told me he's opened a ticket with Mazda and took a snapshot of data from my car. May or may not be anything useful in there but Mazda has to take a look at it. He's also asked for a copy of the video, which will likely be too large to send Mazda through their ticketing system but he wants to try.

My main concern at this point was getting it on paper for future use if needed. This is the first time this tech has seen anything like it. Here's to hoping this leads to something.

In the mean time I will continue to turn it off and on again.
 

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Currently at the dealer for oil change. I happened to have a fresh video from this last week. Showed it happening, popping into neutral (can't tell but the bucking stops, revs continue to bounce) and then restart the car and everything is rock solid again. They have recorded my complaints on paper and put a Sr. tech onto it, who to their credit came out to me to get clarification and watch the video with me.

The tech connected it and of course found nothing wrong at this time. To his credit, he told me he's opened a ticket with Mazda and took a snapshot of data from my car. May or may not be anything useful in there but Mazda has to take a look at it. He's also asked for a copy of the video, which will likely be too large to send Mazda through their ticketing system but he wants to try.

My main concern at this point was getting it on paper for future use if needed. This is the first time this tech has seen anything like it. Here's to hoping this leads to something.

In the mean time I will continue to turn it off and on again.
Any possibility of sharing the video with us? I am interested to see this!
 

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Any possibility of sharing the video with us? I am interested to see this!
Sorry... Toddler twins and a very pregnant wife. Hadn't gotten to it.


Here's a link to a share I made on my google drive. I don't upload to youtube so this is about the best I can do at the moment.

Click here for my bucking videos

Tech watched both of these videos. Asked for a copy of the most recent one (night time one) where I went through the shutdown procedure - I gave him this link hoping he could get it to the Mazda people. Pardon my colorful language on the first one - it was pretty shaky that time.

One thing I just noticed is that the idle is actually low and rough when it's happening, not just rough. I didn't catch that before. When I do the restart the idle is a bit higher and rock steady. Unless it's higher because I just restarted. Will try and remember to check it in normal driving.
 

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Hmmm...... ok, now we're on to something.

You can get the MTXs into this condition if you nearly but don't quite stall in 1st. The engine gets into a VERY low idle state and is shaking quite badly. Shutdown and restart -- all is well. Needless to say that particular "misfeature" is to be avoided, but it's entirely in the "don't do that" box if you have an MTX, since you have complete control of the situation at hand.

I SUSPECT this is the same issue, but in the ATX it's happening because the torque converter isn't unlocking when it should, so the engine RPMs fall low enough to get into that mode. The PCM should shut the fuel off under that condition and just kill the engine, but it doesn't.
 

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Thanks for posting this.
I have this same bounce! My revs don't seem to bounce as much as yours does but it makes the whole car bounce like yours is doing.
Question, When the car is in D and your foot is on the brake, is it fully on the brake or are you lightly on it? Mine does something similar when in traffic and I attempt to get the car to creep while lightly resting my foot on the brake but still allowing the car to slowly move...it's a very irritating oscillation/bounce.

Also, My idles goes as low as 500 when stopped occassionally and it creates a very noticeable vibration in the car.
 

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My foot is on the brake hard enough to keep the car stopped. Not excessively hard. It's the same bounce whether I have my foot on the brake with any pressure or I'm using the brake hold feature.

The bounce gets noticeably worse if I take my foot off the brake or release brake pressure to "creep" forward without applying any skinny pedal. The car will drive when accelerating so I wouldn't call it dangerous (at least at this point) but it is certainly unpleasant and abnormal. I can feel a slight hesitation under low speed acceleration load (think residential neighborhood streets and stop signs) until I restart.

My last two occurrences were 3,000 kms apart with the last one being 1,000 kms ago. I haven't found a way to replicate other than it tends to happen on the tail end of my commute when the drive train is at normal temps in ~0-10 degree C ambient temps (so far). It has happened on a full and empty fuel tank and with brake hold on and off.
 

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After reading and talking to some very knowledgeable folks I'm going with Tickerguy here. It almost has to be related to the torque converter.

Whether it's a mechanical flaw or possibly a software issue this is where the problem is.

Now who has a dealer that's going to be willing (or able) to replace it and see what the results are. I'd like to think and hope Mazda isn't going to just sweep this under the table and give the famous "working as designed" dealers love to quote.

FWIW, our car has not had this happen. However the car is rarely driven in any stop and go, creeping type traffic.
 

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I wouldn't bet on the torque converter being defective. Maybe, but I wouldn't take the bet that if mechanically hosed it ONLY happens in this circumstance.

More-likely the PCM issue I've seen with my MTX (where you can get into the "bucking" state at very low RPM, well below designed idle. If Mazda was to screw with it, however, they'd likely face a "must recall" notice next, as stalling engines are a really good way to generate NHTSA interest, even if it's happening at very low RPM where you should never be. Better (by a lot) would be for Mazda to figure out WHY the engine gets into that state (I suspect it's an artifact of their Miller Cycle operation when below designed minimum RPM that produces it) and fix it so it can't happen. The simplest solution would likely be to make the engine's aggressiveness in maintaining idle speed materially greater so that the momentary drop into the RPM range where this occurs doesn't happen. The bad news is that if they DID make this change and rolled it on you into an OVT vehicle (for example) you'd lose the tune!
 

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My foot is on the brake hard enough to keep the car stopped. Not excessively hard. It's the same bounce whether I have my foot on the brake with any pressure or I'm using the brake hold feature.

The bounce gets noticeably worse if I take my foot off the brake or release brake pressure to "creep" forward without applying any skinny pedal. The car will drive when accelerating so I wouldn't call it dangerous (at least at this point) but it is certainly unpleasant and abnormal. I can feel a slight hesitation under low speed acceleration load (think residential neighborhood streets and stop signs) until I restart.
So that is exactly what my car does when I attempt to creep. It feels like the ECU allows some amount of torque converter connection when you don't release the brake fully but as soon as you do release the brake, it fully engages the converter and it's fully connected, so no slippage and no bouncing. As a fix, I use the brake hold feature all the time to keep me from letting the car creep in traffic as it really does annoy the sh!t out of me...with the brake hold feature on, converter is fully engaged or fully disengaged, so there's no wobbling in between.

I brought this issue up at my last service visit but the Service Manager was unwilling to take it out on a road test with me because I didn't include it in my appointment and they wanted to hook it up to a computer first; They asked I make another appointment...before even road testing it, which doesn't make much sense...but not much does these days when it comes to this car. My appointment was last one on a Friday afternoon, too, so that's why they didn't want to look at it.
 
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