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Discussion Starter #1
Howdy,

Hoping everyone is safe and doing alright.

I've noticed when the temps fall below freezing my driver's door interior locking switch seems to freeze and stick and then it continually tries to unlock itself along with all the other doors.
I suspect I just need to lube it but I don't know where to apply the lube and what would be the appropriate kind to use. Silicone spray? Lithium? Unicorn snot?

Any thoughts or suggestions?

See the video below for more information. I am aware the video is vertically-shot, but it was done at 5am when I was about to head to work, so cut me some slack! ;)


Thanks again.
 

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Vertical shot is good! I'm using my phone.


You can try to remove the lock mechanism and see if it still working. You remove the terminals and make a direct connection to the battery. You should see the lock move up and down depending on what wire is being supplied.

Sorry that I can't give you a better explanation on how to do it as I don't have pictures and I have forgotten the exact term for that lock mechanism.

I believe someone else can explain better on what I'm trying to say and have a better idea on what to look next.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Vertical shot is good! I'm using my phone.


You can try to remove the lock mechanism and see if it still working. You remove the terminals and make a direct connection to the battery. You should see the lock move up and down depending on what wire is being supplied.

Sorry that I can't give you a better explanation on how to do it as I don't have pictures and I have forgotten the exact term for that lock mechanism.

I believe someone else can explain better on what I'm trying to say and have a better idea on what to look next.
The lock works fine when it's above -1 Celsius or so, it's just when things are frozen that it sticks...that's what makes me think it's a lube thing and not an actual broken or malfunctioning part. If this isn't a lube thing, then it will be going back to the dealer to get looked at...whenever that will be is beyond me at this point.

I feel like (here we go) that the handle has something that moves the lock as well so it opens the door if its locked and that those two parts are sticking together when cold. There is a slight sticking sensation (you can actually here the stick noise when I first pull the lever in the video) when you pull the door lever open and I think that has something to do with it.

Do you think I could get away with spraying some lubricant in there, or to put a more positive spin on it, some lubriCAN (womp womp womp). I just need to know where it's safe to spray in there.
 

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The lock works fine when it's above -1 Celsius or so, it's just when things are frozen that it sticks...that's what makes me think it's a lube thing and not an actual broken or malfunctioning part. If this isn't a lube thing, then it will be going back to the dealer to get looked at...whenever that will be is beyond me at this point.

I feel like (here we go) that the handle has something that moves the lock as well so it opens the door if its locked and that those two parts are sticking together when cold. There is a slight sticking sensation (you can actually here the stick noise when I first pull the lever in the video) when you pull the door lever open and I think that has something to do with it.

Do you think I could get away with spraying some lubricant in there, or to put a more positive spin on it, some lubriCAN (womp womp womp). I just need to know where it's safe to spray in there.

The best way will be to remove the cover. I believe you can safely spray WD-40 silicone (or silicon?) on the mechanical part, but not to the locking mechanism which is a small motor (?) or solenoid.

There are two screws you need to remove before you can pry the cover. One is visible on the door unlock lever. The other one is on the handle which is hidden.

I'll see later if I have pictures and post it if you can't find the hidden screw.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
The best way will be to remove the cover. I believe you can safely spray WD-40 silicone (or silicon?) on the mechanical part, but not to the locking mechanism which is a small motor (?) or solenoid.

There are two screws you need to remove before you can pry the cover. One is visible on the door unlock lever. The other one is on the handle which is hidden.

I'll see later if I have pictures and post it if you can't find the hidden screw.
That's great info. Thank you! Car is outside and we are in the middle of a snowy/rainy mix...ugh, good day to be in the house, I guess.
 

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Swaps an engine... breaks a door. Funny / not funny lol.

Just make sure it's WD40 silicone and not regular WD40 if going with that brand.

Has that inner door card been off before? That could explain a minor mechanical issue behind the lock toggle.

I haven't had the 6's door card off but have pulled a few in my time. Usually there's a lever attached to the lock, in that lever is a bushing / clip that creates a secure connection from the toggle to the push-rod that activates and deactivates the lock. If there's something hung up or broken in there causing something in the linking to not operate smoothly, which I wouldn't say is out of reach if you're hearing / feeling a click or resistance, it could definitely be the issue.

Or, as you mentioned, the lock/ latch itself needs lubed.

I would try lubing the exposed lock / latch as an easy attempt.

I would not try spraying lube in behind the toggle without removing the door card. I'd be afraid of stuff oozing out and damaging some interior materials. If lubing the latch doesn't work I'd be pulling the door card to investigate the linkage to the lock.

All things considered it can only be 1 of a few issues if isolated to that door. If it was this or your engine breaking again, I'd take this for sure LOL (gotta look at the bright side)
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Swaps an engine... breaks a door. Funny / not funny lol.

Just make sure it's WD40 silicone and not regular WD40 if going with that brand.

Has that inner door card been off before? That could explain a minor mechanical issue behind the lock toggle.

I haven't had the 6's door card off but have pulled a few in my time. Usually there's a lever attached to the lock, in that lever is a bushing / clip that creates a secure connection from the toggle to the push-rod that activates and deactivates the lock. If there's something hung up or broken in there causing something in the linking to not operate smoothly, which I wouldn't say is out of reach if you're hearing / feeling a click or resistance, it could definitely be the issue.

Or, as you mentioned, the lock/ latch itself needs lubed.

I would try lubing the exposed lock / latch as an easy attempt.

I would not try spraying lube in behind the toggle without removing the door card. I'd be afraid of stuff oozing out and damaging some interior materials. If lubing the latch doesn't work I'd be pulling the door card to investigate the linkage to the lock.

All things considered it can only be 1 of a few issues if isolated to that door. If it was this or your engine breaking again, I'd take this for sure LOL (gotta look at the bright side)
This has been going on since it started getting quite cold outside back in January, I've just been busy dealing with the engine stuff..but yeah, there seems to always be something wrong with it. The front suspension noise has never been fixed and is still poping like it's hot.

The door card has not been off as far as I know. I agree that the last thing I want is oil stains on the interior...ugh.

Funny you mention the new engine. I checked the oil level last week and it's about 50% overfilled with oil. I sent the Service Manager an email and picture and asked if this is something I should be concerned about...Haven't heard back yet. I suppose if it was an issue, it would have messed the engine up on my drive home or my 3k kilometres I've put on it since the new engine was installed.:confused:

239536
 

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Funny you mention the new engine. I checked the oil level last week and it's about 50% overfilled with oil. I sent the Service Manager an email and picture and asked if this is something I should be concerned about...Haven't heard back yet. I suppose if it was an issue, it would have messed the engine up on my drive home or my 3k kilometres I've put on it since the new engine was installed.:confused:

View attachment 239536
I suspect oil dilution. Please check the oil level regularly, on shorter intervals. Once you reach the X mark, you must change the oil. I have read this on the Owner's Manual.
 
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