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I took it to the dealer twice, but still not fixed. I then got under the car, and sprayed silicone lubricant liberally around the sway bar end link bushings and also the control arm bushings. However, the problem still persist.

I feel like it could be the sway bar bushings which isn't accessible easily (or without jacking up the car). In my experience, it is only happening when the car is cold.

If anyone has any other tips please let me know as it is annoying to hear the knock once or twice per day.

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My 2017 has a strut knocking/tapping noise that is much more pronounced when the suspension unloads. Like accelerating lightly around a corner or going up a slight incline. Doesn't make any noise when the suspension compresses.
 

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I have a gut feeling my issue is a sway bar link, one day when I get time, I'll disconnect one and go for a drive and see if it's fixed.
 

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I hate to bring this up after 9 pages.

But I recently purchase a 2020 Mazda6 Signature and I too have this clunking issues at ONLY first drive of the morning / day after it has sat for a 12 hour plus period of time. It only clunks at right of left turn. It does not clunk again for the rest of the even after a 8 hour shift. It only clunks after a full sitting over night.

I believe it only does this when the suspension is at almost full compression and turning. It's driving me insane as I can't get the techs to replicate it and honestly I find a lot of Mazda techs in my area don't seem to wanna help aside from doing oil changes and tire rotations.. brutal. If anyone has a solution even if its temporary it would put my mind at ease.

Is the silicon spray the best way?


I also have a rattle coming from my vent on my passenger side. I owned a 2015 Mazda3 at new until 2021 and I didn't have a single issue. Very disappointing after spending so much money on a beautiful car.
 

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If anyone has a solution even if its temporary it would put my mind at ease.

Is the silicon spray the best way?


I also have a rattle coming from my vent on my passenger side. I owned a 2015 Mazda3 at new until 2021 and I didn't have a single issue. Very disappointing after spending so much money on a beautiful car.
I don't know if it was a coincidence but when I did that silicone spray thing, I never heard that clunking again. I never bothered to bring it to those tech guys because I find it hard to replicate, it only happens to a particular hump.

With the vent rattle, you might want to open it and then close it. Have you checked the cabin filter? It might be loosely attached. Otherwise, see the dealership.
 

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I hate to bring this up after 9 pages.

But I recently purchase a 2020 Mazda6 Signature and I too have this clunking issues at ONLY first drive of the morning / day after it has sat for a 12 hour plus period of time. It only clunks at right of left turn. It does not clunk again for the rest of the even after a 8 hour shift. It only clunks after a full sitting over night.

I believe it only does this when the suspension is at almost full compression and turning. It's driving me insane as I can't get the techs to replicate it and honestly I find a lot of Mazda techs in my area don't seem to wanna help aside from doing oil changes and tire rotations.. brutal. If anyone has a solution even if its temporary it would put my mind at ease.

Is the silicon spray the best way?


I also have a rattle coming from my vent on my passenger side. I owned a 2015 Mazda3 at new until 2021 and I didn't have a single issue. Very disappointing after spending so much money on a beautiful car.
Do you really understand full compression? This might be full compression... Id bet its one of your brake calipers settling.
243249
 

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Discussion Starter · #169 ·
I hate to bring this up after 9 pages.
....
Is the silicon spray the best way?
In my experience, I had a similar knock noise when my car sat overnight, it was the bushings. I have a steep driveway and the flex of turning out of the driveway onto the road made the bushings knock as they loosened from sticking overnight to the metal components. Try getting under the car and spray the bushings. There are ones for the sway bar and some other suspensions components.

To add credence to @TalonTsi90 thoughts, I also had some caliper pop/knock noise but it wasn't just first thing in the morning, it was mostly all the time. A caliber and brake cleaning/lubing fixed that noise. After they would pop/knock there was a noticeable increase in braking power.

Spraying the bushings is very easy if you have something that allows you to get under the car a bit...you can even just get the front tires off and see some of the bushings that way. Try that and let us know your results. Best of luck.
 
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Yessir, that picture replicates almost how far my suspension is compressing. I have to come down a 10% gradient and turn over a 3 inch drop at the end.
Dude, you still dont understand... im doing 40-45 in that pic, slamming all the way on the brakes going into a 65º turn. No way are you compressing the susp fully driving normally. And if you arent driving normally when you hit that 3" drop, i have zero sympathy for what breaks on your car. Even if you are going slow, the chassis is stiff enough to pull both wheels on one side off the ground with just the front A arm lifted. So, that fights against you compressing fully in a normal circumstance.
 

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Yessir, that picture replicates almost how far my suspension is compressing. I have to come down a 10% gradient and turn over a 3 inch drop at the end.
I completely had a brain fart, pull your front wheels and make sure the strut bolts to the wheel hub are TIGHT. When i changed mine i tightened them and they worked loose somehow and only made noise first thing in the morning. I forgot cause i mean, how often do you swap struts? I hope this is the issue.
 
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