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My '15 got a "clacking" noise only in hard bumps since 30k km and it kept on going up until in warranty they found 3 rock in the swing arm...
It didn't provoke any problems but still was anoying
 

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Hello, let me know if you solved that problem plese and how? I want to know if the dealer was giving you a solution because i think is the same problem that i have with my 2019 Mazda 6. When i press the brake going down a hill or almost in any ocation a little clank sound comes from the suspension or tires. After 5 appointments, japan told they that they must install a special sound isolation part on the spiral below the shock absorber base. In the fifth appointment they almost solve the noise but sometimes i can hear it. Is frustrating is a new car.

thanks

George
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Discussion Starter #143
Hello, let me know if you solved that problem plese and how? I want to know if the dealer was giving you a solution because i think is the same problem that i have with my 2019 Mazda 6. When i press the brake going down a hill or almost in any ocation a little clank sound comes from the suspension or tires. After 5 appointments, japan told they that they must install a special sound isolation part on the spiral below the shock absorber base. In the fifth appointment they almost solve the noise but sometimes i can hear it. Is frustrating is a new car.

thanks

George
[email protected]
Hi George,

This issue was never resolved by Mazda. They said it was the suspension bottoming out which is not true. My car still does it. It is very frustrating.
 

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. After 5 appointments, japan told they that they must install a special sound isolation part on the spiral below the shock absorber base. In the fifth appointment they almost solve the noise but sometimes i can hear it. Is frustrating is a new car.

thanks

George
[email protected]
Are you referring to this one?



It usually fixes the "unwanted sound" on the suspension on the Mazda 3.
 

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If that is, but it did not work, there is still a small sound when I brake down a hill or when braking very abruptly.
 

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Discussion Starter #146
If that is, but it did not work, there is still a small sound when I brake down a hill or when braking very abruptly.
I find my car makes a knock noise as well when braking in those situations. I haven't done the brake service so I assumed it's just sticking parts in the caliper
 

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So I've been following this thread, and many others, trying to track down the clunk in my wife's 2016 6 GT. I joined the forum today to provide some feedback.

When the noise happens, it's usually at slow speeds, either traveling straight or on a left turn. Happens when the suspension is unloaded or as the wheel is traveling down the back side of a bump. Only happens on the driver's side, and seems to come from around the pedal area.

I have already replaced the strut bushing, the bump stop and added the coil spring rubber, as seen above. Nothing changed. In fact, the sound got worse. Until today.

I decided to dive into it again and removed the driver's side stabilizer link. Noise still there, but not with the same intensity. Then I saw this bolt, kinda off center...



This is one of the subframe bolts, between the half shaft and the stabilizer bar. If you were look at the face of the bolt from under the car, it's a straight shot up through the hole in the lower control arm. I also still have the stabilizer link removed int his pic. It's a 14mm head, and it was loose. Not, jiggling loose, but it wasn't exactly torqued down. I was able to turn it without much effort, using a regular 14mm wrench. I grabbed my torque wrench and tightened it to 100 lbf-ft, not knowing exactly what it should be. Further investigation required on that.

I buttoned everything back up and took it for a test drive. Huge difference. Driving over all of the dips and bumps that always cause the clunk; it made no noise at all. It also seemed to have more body rigidity and the steering felt a bit more direct. There is now a faint grinding noise under some of the same driving conditions, which I believe is still due to the twisting of the body. So maybe some of the other subframe bolts are loose.

One other thing, the fact that this driver side bolt was out of alignment is concerning. The passenger side was more centered, meaning the washer was inline with the stamped metal mount on the subframe. I did check it's torque and it was very close to 100 lbf-ft. One thing I noticed over the last year or so, when this noise really started to show up, is that the steering felt very vague at highway speed, and on-center feel was not very good. Almost like the alignment was out. I'm now wondering if the subframe has shifted on the driver's side, causing other related driving issues, other than the noise.

So just wanted to add my two cents. When I get some more time, and can clear out some more room in my garage, I'll get the entire front end up on jack stand for a better look. Hopefully this helps anyone else out there who's pulling their hair out.
 

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Discussion Starter #148
So I've been following this thread, and many others, trying to track down the clunk in my wife's 2016 6 GT. I joined the forum today to provide some feedback.

When the noise happens, it's usually at slow speeds, either traveling straight or on a left turn. Happens when the suspension is unloaded or as the wheel is traveling down the back side of a bump. Only happens on the driver's side, and seems to come from around the pedal area.

I have already replaced the strut bushing, the bump stop and added the coil spring rubber, as seen above. Nothing changed. In fact, the sound got worse. Until today.

I decided to dive into it again and removed the driver's side stabilizer link. Noise still there, but not with the same intensity. Then I saw this bolt, kinda off center...
....
It's always appreciated when folks take the time to snap pics when they are under their cars. I know in the heat of the moment it can be tough to stop and take a picture, at least I know it is for me, so this is great! I do recall that there was an issue with loose bolts under the cowl with some Mazdas, and they had my car apart to check that, but it wasn't the case for me, unfortunately. Thanks for posting!
 

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So I've been following this thread, and many others, trying to track down the clunk in my wife's 2016 6 GT. I joined the forum today to provide some feedback.

When the noise happens, it's usually at slow speeds, either traveling straight or on a left turn. Happens when the suspension is unloaded or as the wheel is traveling down the back side of a bump. Only happens on the driver's side, and seems to come from around the pedal area.

I have already replaced the strut bushing, the bump stop and added the coil spring rubber, as seen above. Nothing changed. In fact, the sound got worse. Until today.

I decided to dive into it again and removed the driver's side stabilizer link. Noise still there, but not with the same intensity. Then I saw this bolt, kinda off center...



This is one of the subframe bolts, between the half shaft and the stabilizer bar. If you were look at the face of the bolt from under the car, it's a straight shot up through the hole in the lower control arm. I also still have the stabilizer link removed int his pic. It's a 14mm head, and it was loose. Not, jiggling loose, but it wasn't exactly torqued down. I was able to turn it without much effort, using a regular 14mm wrench. I grabbed my torque wrench and tightened it to 100 lbf-ft, not knowing exactly what it should be. Further investigation required on that.

I buttoned everything back up and took it for a test drive. Huge difference. Driving over all of the dips and bumps that always cause the clunk; it made no noise at all. It also seemed to have more body rigidity and the steering felt a bit more direct. There is now a faint grinding noise under some of the same driving conditions, which I believe is still due to the twisting of the body. So maybe some of the other subframe bolts are loose.

One other thing, the fact that this driver side bolt was out of alignment is concerning. The passenger side was more centered, meaning the washer was inline with the stamped metal mount on the subframe. I did check it's torque and it was very close to 100 lbf-ft. One thing I noticed over the last year or so, when this noise really started to show up, is that the steering felt very vague at highway speed, and on-center feel was not very good. Almost like the alignment was out. I'm now wondering if the subframe has shifted on the driver's side, causing other related driving issues, other than the noise.

So just wanted to add my two cents. When I get some more time, and can clear out some more room in my garage, I'll get the entire front end up on jack stand for a better look. Hopefully this helps anyone else out there who's pulling their hair out.
Hello sorry I don't understand.... That 17mm bolt is off centre for me too on the driver's side. You say the 14mm is there another bolt on top of that? All I saw is the brace support the transmission or something? Sorry I only have regular scissor jack couldn't lift too high.
 

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Hello sorry I don't understand.... That 17mm bolt is off centre for me too on the driver's side. You say the 14mm is there another bolt on top of that? All I saw is the brace support the transmission or something? Sorry I only have regular scissor jack couldn't lift too high.
The 14mm nut I reference is for the attachment of the stabilizer link to the strut. I had removed it as I was diagnosing the clunk issue, and left it off to take a better picture of the subframe bolt.


Thank you for noting that your bolt is off-center as well. I just happened to take another look at this yesterday while I was doing an oil change. I had a suspicion that maybe the bolt was off-center due to the body twisting, since I only had the front driver's side jacked up. So, I jacked up the entire front end evenly, to eliminate the body twist, and loosened the driver and passenger side subframe bolts (front only). Nothing moved, so i just assumed that's how its supposed to be. I did check the other 4 subframe bolts, which are 19mm?, and they were all tight, beyond 100lb-ft at least.
 

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The 14mm nut I reference is for the attachment of the stabilizer link to the strut. I had removed it as I was diagnosing the clunk issue, and left it off to take a better picture of the subframe bolt.


Thank you for noting that your bolt is off-center as well. I just happened to take another look at this yesterday while I was doing an oil change. I had a suspicion that maybe the bolt was off-center due to the body twisting, since I only had the front driver's side jacked up. So, I jacked up the entire front end evenly, to eliminate the body twist, and loosened the driver and passenger side subframe bolts (front only). Nothing moved, so i just assumed that's how its supposed to be. I did check the other 4 subframe bolts, which are 19mm?, and they were all tight, beyond 100lb-ft at least.
Thanks for clearing up. Yah it sounds like popping bobbing sound when going over bumps at lower speeds most prominent with wheels straight. I lubed the struts, bumps, and joints with combination of At-205, dry silicon, grease... All the same still....
What's weird is it only happens when the car is rolling and very prominent too when swiftly steering to the left and back like something is loose and flapping something.... Maybe got to do with steering rack or cv?
 

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Discussion Starter #152
Thanks for clearing up. Yah it sounds like popping bobbing sound when going over bumps at lower speeds most prominent with wheels straight. I lubed the struts, bumps, and joints with combination of At-205, dry silicon, grease... All the same still....
What's weird is it only happens when the car is rolling and very prominent too when swiftly steering to the left and back like something is loose and flapping something.... Maybe got to do with steering rack or cv?
I was going to suggest steering rack.
 

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Ha, I had a sound like that in my '16 Mazda3. It wasn't constant, but there was one particular bump on one particular road where it happened more often than not. In my mind, it sounded like an inadequate shock mount. But it was so infrequent, I really didn't think about it much unless I happened to be going over that particular bump dropping the kiddo off.

So anyway, eventually I had my 3 dropped with new springs and shocks. I never even thought about it until I happened to go over that bump a few times and I was like, "hey, I don't hear that sound anymore." and for the remaining 25k miles I had the car, I never heard that sound again.

So in conclusion, there was definitely something amiss with the stock suspension that seemed to be fixed when I put the Eibachs/Konis in. Now that said, that doesn't mean that I couldn't have taken it to the dealership and it may had been as simple as them tightening some bolts, who knows? But I say all of that to show you, in fact, you are not crazy. While not the exact same problem, I'm hopeful it's an easy fix for you
I also have a 2018 Mazda 6 that is making a popping/ creaking noise when going over bumps. For 2017 mazdas and below there is a Technical Service Bulletin for this. It a replacement of both the lower control arm bushings, bump stops and and depending on the noise, an added protector tube for the springs. Nothing found for the 2018's though
 

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Discussion Starter #154
I also have a 2018 Mazda 6 that is making a popping/ creaking noise when going over bumps. For 2017 mazdas and below there is a Technical Service Bulletin for this. It a replacement of both the lower control arm bushings, bump stops and and depending on the noise, an added protector tube for the springs. Nothing found for the 2018's though
They put the spring protector tube on mine and it did not help. They also applied foam tape around the top where the bump stop hits, also didn't help.

The creak/knock noise first thing in the morning was dry anti-sway bar bushings. The popping noise on driver's side was never fixed and is still occurring on bumps when turning and driving over 50 or so km/hr.
 

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My 2019 has had an audible clunk since it was new, this last appointment, the Tech tried a TSB the CX series for bolts in the cowl area that aren't torqued properly and cause a clunk that sounds like a loose sway bar endlink. While it didn't solve my issue 100% it is a ton better.

May be worth mentioning to your tech to try that TSB. (I don't have the TSB number available.)
 

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I am also experiencing a similar 'knock' sound. Most prominent when getting out of an inclined driveway. Does anyone know if an official TSB exists which I can refer to my local Mazda dealer?

Also, I have managed to capture a perfect video, you can hear the 'knock' at 0:14 & 0:18:

 

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Discussion Starter #157
I am also experiencing a similar 'knock' sound. Most prominent when getting out of an inclined driveway. Does anyone know if an official TSB exists which I can refer to my local Mazda dealer?

Also, I have managed to capture a perfect video, you can hear the 'knock' at 0:14 & 0:18:

Hmmm that is definitely a knock noise! Are you able to post a picture of what the incline looks like? It's tough to see in the video. Are you driving up and out of a parking garage? Perhaps a Google map streetview picture? Does it do it every time or only once in the morning?

There is a TSB for Mazda3's that deals with a spring isolator. It goes on the top of the spring and prevents the noise when the spring hits the strut top but I don't know if that's the condition you are hearing the noise in.
 

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Hmmm that is definitely a knock noise! Are you able to post a picture of what the incline looks like? It's tough to see in the video. Are you driving up and out of a parking garage? Perhaps a Google map streetview picture? Does it do it every time or only once in the morning?

There is a TSB for Mazda3's that deals with a spring isolator. It goes on the top of the spring and prevents the noise when the spring hits the strut top but I don't know if that's the condition you are hearing the noise in.
Yes I am a coming out of an underground parking and driving up the ramp. It mainly happens when the car is cold, on average once or twice a day
 

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Discussion Starter #159
Yes I am a coming out of an underground parking and driving up the ramp. It mainly happens when the car is cold, on average once or twice a day
That makes me think dry bushings. I would recommend you get underneath and spray the anti-sway bar bushings in the front with a bushing-safe lubricant. While you're under there, you can spray the control arms bushings as well.
 
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That makes me think dry bushings. I would recommend you get underneath and spray the anti-sway bar bushings in the front with a bushing-safe lubricant. While you're under there, you can spray the control arms bushings as well.
a
Thanks for the tips. I am seeing the dealership this week, let's see if they can get it sorted for me. Will keep you posted.
 
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