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Very convincing! I work in Engineering and it's all about statistics!



I also think for this reason alone that it will never be solved or fixed by Mazda. There are simply not enough cars on the road/people raising the issue for them to even care.



But, maybe (just maybe) with a few different dealers investigating, they/we can solve it.

For the time being I am working on trying to get another issue fixed (seat trim issue).



I was reading the installation instructions for the Corksport lowering springs and did noticed that there is a rubber noise isolater...and the noise I hear is a bouncing RUBBER noise...hmmmmm.
I will be mentioning it to my dealer when I get my next service. Luckily I have heard it taking a left into their parking lot. It has a slight dip and a hard left.

Interesting. Wonder of that isolators position changes enough to bang against the body.

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Very convincing! I work in Engineering and it's all about statistics!

I also think for this reason alone that it will never be solved or fixed by Mazda. There are simply not enough cars on the road/people raising the issue for them to even care.

But, maybe (just maybe) with a few different dealers investigating, they/we can solve it.
For the time being I am working on trying to get another issue fixed (seat trim issue).

I was reading the installation instructions for the Corksport lowering springs and did noticed that there is a rubber noise isolater...and the noise I hear is a bouncing RUBBER noise...hmmmmm.
I think we can solve it ourselves, collectively. I didn't expect the dealers to help much and was hesitant to bring it back for a second look. I'm surprised you had as many parts replaced as you did! Mine gave up after two visits, torqued some bolts, and simply asked that I drive it a few thousand miles to break it in because it's SO NEW. :nerd: It has 600 miles and it's no different today than it was at 60 miles.

And I guess I'd call it a 'knock'. :D Somewhere between metal and rubber, but maybe a hard rubber knock? There's so much damping material and isolation these days, it could easily be a metal on metal hit and still sound very muffled.

[EDIT] It's definitely not the rubber isolator. I pulled the wheel and looked. Mine's solid and there's no way it can come into contact with anything. Gonna poke around some more later.
 

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Discussion Starter #123
I will be mentioning it to my dealer when I get my next service. Luckily I have heard it taking a left into their parking lot. It has a slight dip and a hard left.

Interesting. Wonder of that isolators position changes enough to bang against the body.

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It looks very easy to remove. I will look for evidence of rubbing next time I have the wheel off.
 

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Discussion Starter #124
I think we can solve it ourselves, collectively. I didn't expect the dealers to help much and was hesitant to bring it back for a second look. I'm surprised you had as many parts replaced as you did! Mine gave up after two visits, torqued some bolts, and simply asked that I drive it a few thousand miles to break it in because it's SO NEW. :nerd: It has 600 miles and it's no different today than it was at 60 miles.

And I guess I'd call it a 'knock'. :D Somewhere between metal and rubber, but maybe a hard rubber knock? There's so much damping material and isolation these days, it could easily be a metal on metal hit and still sound very muffled.

[EDIT] It's definitely not the rubber isolator. I pulled the wheel and looked. Mine's solid and there's no way it can come into contact with anything. Gonna poke around some more later.
Hard rubber knock is a good description. I even got a bounce noise at one point but I suspect that was because the spring/strut were bouncing a bit.
Just saw your edit about the isolater...I wonder what its purpose is? I am still tempted to take it off and take the car for a spin. I can pretty much get it to do the noise at any driveway at this point.

My car is still doing the noise like the first day I took it off the lot and I am at 64k kms now. So it aint goin' away!
 

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Discussion Starter #125
Just checking out the corksport lowering springs installation instructions. Gives a great look into all the parts on the front driver's suspension!
 

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Hard rubber knock is a good description. I even got a bounce noise at one point but I suspect that was because the spring/strut were bouncing a bit.
Just saw your edit about the isolater...I wonder what its purpose is? I am still tempted to take it off and take the car for a spin. I can pretty much get it to do the noise at any driveway at this point.

My car is still doing the noise like the first day I took it off the lot and I am at 64k kms now. So it aint goin' away!
It's just dead weight as far as we're concerned. It comes in contact with nothing, and doesn't move. It's simply a noise/vibration cancellation device. The large rubber mass helps to dampen/reduce vibrations within the strut itself. I've been noticing more and more dead rubber chunks on newer cars, strategically placed all over particular suspension components to reduce NVH.

If you strike a large piece of metal it will ring/vibrate. Now fasten some rubber mass and it will just "thud" and ring less. The specific mass and compliance of the rubber would dampen a particular frequency range. I guess a tuned mass damper of sorts? The new 2019 3 has a few "tuned dampers". I came across some literature on it. However, I thought the ride was very odd, the front end felt bouncy over broken pavement.

I ran this past an engineer I know, and he said: "given it's size I'd imagine they were trying to reduce high frequency road noise."
 

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Not sure if any of you guys follow Savagegeese on Youtube, but he's got a great in-depth review of the '18 Signature including many detailed views and discussions of the underbody upgrades to reduce NVH. One notable aspect: the new control arm bushings that we're all discussing are now fluid-filled? Wonder how that works and where/why lubing them would have any affect.

Rob

 

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Discussion Starter #128
Not sure if any of you guys follow Savagegeese on Youtube, but he's got a great in-depth review of the '18 Signature including many detailed views and discussions of the underbody upgrades to reduce NVH. One notable aspect: the new control arm bushings that we're all discussing are now fluid-filled? Wonder how that works and where/why lubing them would have any affect.

Rob

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=onqlfzi0Rso

I enjoy SavageGeese. Love the Turbowski guy that was on there. Not sure where he's been.
 

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Not sure if any of you guys follow Savagegeese on Youtube, but he's got a great in-depth review of the '18 Signature including many detailed views and discussions of the underbody upgrades to reduce NVH. One notable aspect: the new control arm bushings that we're all discussing are now fluid-filled? Wonder how that works and where/why lubing them would have any affect.



Rob



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=onqlfzi0Rso
Yep, watched that review and very informative and thorough-as is the case with all Savagegeese work. His recent review of the 2019 Mazda 3 was fantastic. While other "reviewer" seemed to criticize Mazdas 2 hour presentation on Mazda3 engineering, Savage embraced it and went into it. I scratch my head over so called journalists/reviewers who scoff at Mazdas passion and openness, instead phoning in a monroney performance. If I was lucky enough to have their job, I would dive into all the detail. Thats why I consider SG the reference standard for youtube car reviews. IMO

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Sure -- here's the location. Hit both front and back liberally with silicone spray (NOT anything oil-based as that will attract lots of dirt and may degrade the rubber)

There's one on both driver and pax sides, of course. When my car was new it was "on every oil change and usually once between" sort of thing. I haven't had to do it now in quite a long time -- it eventually stops. I suspect what's going on is when the bushings are new they hold the parts in tension until enough stress builds and then it "clunks" as it releases; once they wear a bit they move as intended.

BTW the bottom of that bracket is a decent spot for a jackstand as well -- just use a rubber cover for the stand so you don't damage the bolts or if and when you need to get them off to change those bushings you WILL be unhappy!
I finally had time to get under the car today. I sprayed liberally as instructed, front and back. I actually forgot the "front and back" so I had to get under it for the second time.



I saw this thing so I also sprayed it. I don't know if that will help.

I should have taken the picture before I sprayed it. I myself couldn't "see" the part.



I seldom hear that sound, except on the first 20,000 km. I'm now running at 37,000 km.

By the way, I hear the sound whenever I pass on straight, and not while turning, a particular hump on our place.
 

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Discussion Starter #132
Nothing new to report besides more stuff breaking. Mazda told me I was bottoming it out and that there was nothing they can do as the “part” is not serviceable. There was another gent by the name of Rob on here who was doing a lot of searching on his car for the noise but he also was not able to pin point it.

Unfortunately, I'm dealing with other issues including negligent service techs. I’ve had someone mess up an oil change and I now have oil all over the underneath of my car AND my last dealer warranty trip now has my car with a ripped leather seat which they did fixing a broken rear arm rest which was from another warranty issue (rear seat back rest trim broken). It’s to the point now where I don’t feel I can trust any Mazda dealers within 200 Km’s of my house. Unbelievable.
I feel so bad for my car. It’s been ripped and torn apart by so many people who have left it in shambles. This is one of the worst ownership experiences I have ever had. I honestly feel the car is cursed. I had maybe a few weeks of enjoyment with it and it now is a constant source of “what’s wrong now”.
 

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Nothing new to report besides more stuff breaking. Mazda told me I was bottoming it out and that there was nothing they can do as the “part” is not serviceable. There was another gent by the name of Rob on here who was doing a lot of searching on his car for the noise but he also was not able to pin point it.

Unfortunately, I'm dealing with other issues including negligent service techs. I’ve had someone mess up an oil change and I now have oil all over the underneath of my car AND my last dealer warranty trip now has my car with a ripped leather seat which they did fixing a broken rear arm rest which was from another warranty issue (rear seat back rest trim broken). It’s to the point now where I don’t feel I can trust any Mazda dealers within 200 Km’s of my house. Unbelievable.
I feel so bad for my car. It’s been ripped and torn apart by so many people who have left it in shambles. This is one of the worst ownership experiences I have ever had. I honestly feel the car is cursed. I had maybe a few weeks of enjoyment with it and it now is a constant source of “what’s wrong now”.
Sorry to hear that...

Knowing your story, I don't think I can complain with the ripped rubber on the rear brake. Last time I inquired, warranty won't cover it. Perhaps I'll give it a second try. I know I have posted this picture on another thread.



Insurance won't cover it as there's no collision involved.

In other words, I'll have to pay approximately $307 for the assembly if it breaks prematurely as I wait for the repair kit. Sadly, there's no repair kit available on our local dealer so I have to order online.

Going back, is there any chance that they will replace the unit with all the troubles they caused you? I know it's like hoping for the sun to rise from the west.

A legal complaint citing the lemon car law might apply or negligence on taking care of your car or whatever your lawyer might suggest is, will be of last resort.
 

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Unfortunately, I'm dealing with other issues including negligent service techs. I’ve had someone mess up an oil change and I now have oil all over the underneath of my car .
I go over to my buds 2 bay/2 lift indy shop and he and I change the oil as well as lube, inspect and torque everything while the oil is draining.

You would have to be completely clueless to end up with oil any where but in the drain pan and that includes the oil from the oil filter. This has to be one of the easiest cars to change the oil and filter on I've ever seen.

I've said it a 100 times, on several different forums, the dealers do more to ruin the relationship and experience with our vehicles than the OEM ever could. I often wish the dealers were owned by the OEM rather than independently owned. It would be a win win for us and the OEM's.

Really disappointed with what you're going through. Our car has been flawless. The only time it's been to the dealer is for the carplay/AA install and update.

Best of luck going forward.
 

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Discussion Starter #135
Best of luck going forward.

Thanks for that.


It's not easy nor ideal for me to checking the work of others all the time so it's to the point now where I won't because 9/10 times I find something messed up. The part I find disheartening is the Tech who ripped my leather looked me square in the eye and said if I have any issues to let him know...he must have known he ripped it! I saw the rip even before I left the dealer lot but I was just so fuming angry that I thought, "[email protected] it" and just moved on. It is in a spot that isn't visible when the armrest is down, which it is always. The rip is in between the side of the armrest and the side of the seat beside it. I also discovered the broken trim was not replaced properly so I can just pull it off, which I pointed out to him. He said they were a bugger to change...so not only am I no further ahead, They've simply replaced one issue with two. :/


As for the original knock noise, I have slowed my driving a bit so I don't hear it as much anymore but I know if I do start driving it more aggressively the suspension will start knocking and bouncing again.


The appeal of the unlimited mileage warranty Mazda offers as standard here in Canada is waning. So far, any warranty repairs have just left my car with something else broken or Mazda can't/won't fix it.
 

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Yeah, definitely a combination of crappy dealers and having a Friday afternoon built car.

I'm already about to hit 20,000 miles after 10 months.(Driving to Dallas and back from San Antonio during select weekends, having to use my personal car for work related activity)

So far so good. With that said, the dealership I purchased my car from in Austin, Roger Beasley, is by far the best non-luxury dealership I've ever seen. My car always return in tip top shape when going in for service.
 

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So I've been chasing this noise on my own in my '14 Touring (85k miles) for almost two years now. About 9-10 months ago also began to feel a certain "waywardness" through the steering wheel over the same kinds of bumps that produced the suspension noise. The wheel would feel like it was being "jiggled" back and forth in my hand over these bumps. I had to start making lots of little steering corrections on the interstate, especially long sweeping curves. And the on-center tightness of the steering was gone. Finally decided to replace the front struts and strut tower bearings to try to solve it after researching here, but it didn't work. Decided to try to live with it, but the noise and steering got worse. Took it to another highly recommended shop and left it with them for 4 days. Took techs and service managers for rides, and they could hear and feel it. Looked up the Mazda TSBs and then performed the work I've attached (the brake job was a "while you're in there" thing since my pads had about 30% life left and I had a pulsation). Cost me over $2k, but, hallelujah, it's fixed! No noise, precise steering, and arrow straight on the interstate. Hopefully it lasts. My 6 hasn't driven this well in quite a long time.
 

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Well, my mine has developed the dreaded noise now, a pretty loud "thunk" or "pop" when making a turn to/from a driveway in the morning or when I leave work to go home. Doesn't happen again after the first time; I could turn onto all kinds of driveways the rest of the day and hear no noise.

Even more interesting, the service advisor has a similar noise on his own 2018 Signature.

Both of ours didn't develop this noise until much later on though. I forgot to ask his mileage, but it's over 15,000 since he said he had it checked at the 15,000 service. Mine is at 24,000.

Only common denominator I could think of is that it may be an issue with Turbo 6's. I don't think I've seen anyone on this forum with anything less than a 2018 GT.

This could be why the service advisor hasn't seen any other customer complaints, since most people don't have the Turbo. It also makes sense from a technical aspect, as it could be that the increased stress from the 310 lb-ft of torque is causing something to get displaced in the suspension. That or the Turbos may have a different suspension design. Drawing for straws here.

Having it checked out today, and service advisor is hoping they can find something on my car to help figure out the issue with his car. lol
 

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Discussion Starter #140
Well, my mine has developed the dreaded noise now, a pretty loud "thunk" or "pop" when making a turn to/from a driveway in the morning or when I leave work to go home. Doesn't happen again after the first time; I could turn onto all kinds of driveways the rest of the day and hear no noise.

Even more interesting, the service advisor has a similar noise on his own 2018 Signature.

Both of ours didn't develop this noise until much later on though. I forgot to ask his mileage, but it's over 15,000 since he said he had it checked at the 15,000 service. Mine is at 24,000.

Only common denominator I could think of is that it may be an issue with Turbo 6's. I don't think I've seen anyone on this forum with anything less than a 2018 GT.

This could be why the service advisor hasn't seen any other customer complaints, since most people don't have the Turbo. It also makes sense from a technical aspect, as it could be that the increased stress from the 310 lb-ft of torque is causing something to get displaced in the suspension. That or the Turbos may have a different suspension design. Drawing for straws here.

Having it checked out today, and service advisor is hoping they can find something on my car to help figure out the issue with his car. lol
If it's first thing in the morning/after the car sits for an extended period, I think it's your bushings for your anti-sway bar. My car still does this every morning. I spray them with silicone spray and the noise goes away for a few weeks but returns. I suspect the knock is simply the bushing being forced to move after settling for an extended period.
 
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