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Discussion Starter #101
Ha, I was wrong. It still persists. But I'm sure you already knew that. ;)

It's possibly something related to the underside panels? They mentioned removing them to "re-torque the suspension components" and it went away for a day.

All I know today is that it never knocks while going straight, now it's just while turning right over slight bumps. It's very inconsistent and tends to vary with corner radius. For example: while entering a slight rightward corner at speed.

I'm narrowing it down to the exact conditions. The faster the speed, the larger the corner radius and slower speeds require a tighter radius, which means it could be G-force dependent. Maybe it's as silly as something loose shifting left/right in the engine compartment. I've also noticed it while exiting my driveway at an angle.

An analytical approach may eventually resolve this or it might end up driving me insane. :nerd:

Some days I really dislike being OCD about this kind of stuff.

Are you taking the car back to the dealer?


Some of us have noticed that the noise stops for a bit after the car is up on the lift. I suspect that's what happened in your case as well.
Any chance of catching the noise on video and posting? I am curious if it's the same noise I have with my car.


In my car I notice it does the noise when the front suspension is loaded/compressed. If I go over bumps and the car is flat, there is nothing...but when I am braking or turning to the right and there is extra weight on the front end of the car, it does the noise.
 

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Are you taking the car back to the dealer?


Some of us have noticed that the noise stops for a bit after the car is up on the lift. I suspect that's what happened in your case as well.
Any chance of catching the noise on video and posting? I am curious if it's the same noise I have with my car.


In my car I notice it does the noise when the front suspension is loaded/compressed. If I go over bumps and the car is flat, there is nothing...but when I am braking or turning to the right and there is extra weight on the front end of the car, it does the noise.
I haven't decided yet. I'm sure I will go back eventually, I just don't want to waste my time or their time duplicating the same fix attempts that you and others have ruled out.

As far as catching it on video... more than possible, it's just whether or not it'll be picked by the capturing device at the right moment. To my ears it sounds exactly like the worn sway bar link I just repaired myself on the '10 Altima I had traded in. And yes, loaded front left seems to be the dominant scenario. Sometimes even during initial turn in, not only over slight bumps.

What's odd is that I first heard the noise during a parking lot left turn (unloaded front left), which no longer occurs. In either case it seems to only occur during body roll which does load the sway bar, like when exiting my driveway at an angle. I know you had your roll bar and bushings replaced, how about the linkages themselves?

I'm hoping to repeat the noise exiting my driveway consistently, then I can listen closer while someone else drives it.

I also have a small USB microphone I could place anywhere I want (wheel well, under the hood, etc) and record the audio to my laptop...Sh!t just got real. :D
 

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I also have a small USB microphone I could place anywhere I want (wheel well, under the hood, etc) and record the audio to my laptop...Sh!t just got real. :D
Why is that I have thought of "some other uses" that I can possibly think of for that USB microphone?
 

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Discussion Starter #104
I haven't decided yet. I'm sure I will go back eventually, I just don't want to waste my time or their time duplicating the same fix attempts that you and others have ruled out.

As far as catching it on video... more than possible, it's just whether or not it'll be picked by the capturing device at the right moment. To my ears it sounds exactly like the worn sway bar link I just repaired myself on the '10 Altima I had traded in. And yes, loaded front left seems to be the dominant scenario. Sometimes even during initial turn in, not only over slight bumps.

What's odd is that I first heard the noise during a parking lot left turn (unloaded front left), which no longer occurs. In either case it seems to only occur during body roll which does load the sway bar, like when exiting my driveway at an angle. I know you had your roll bar and bushings replaced, how about the linkages themselves?

I'm hoping to repeat the noise exiting my driveway consistently, then I can listen closer while someone else drives it.

I also have a small USB microphone I could place anywhere I want (wheel well, under the hood, etc) and record the audio to my laptop...Sh!t just got real. :D

I would recommend keeping the dealer up to date on what's going on. Mazda won't know what's happening if the dealers don't know. The fact is Mazda Canada is waiting for someone to identify what the noise is so they can do a TSB or recall. I recommend anyone dealing with the noise get it verified by a dealer. At a minimum, I would let your dealer know that their fix didn't actually stop the noise.



I was also looking for usb microphones or wireless ones myself to use with my cell phone as I was going to try and diagnose the source of the noise myself (last Technician to look at my car recommend I try to find out what it is myself and gave me some suggestions)...I've changed my driving habits and just drive a lot slower when leaving my work or when entering driveways or driving over rough spots...so I don't tend to hear the noise as much anymore but I do not think that's really a proper "fix". There is something wrong and I would love to know what it is!
 

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Agreed. Appt is scheduled for early next week. Thankfully, I can consistently reproduce the knock by turning into their service department parking lot. :)

I'll keep this thread informed when I know more.

During my research I came across a Mazda 3 thread (can't find it now) that was very similar. Their fix was to grease the strut bearing. Some were bone dry from the factory. I can't see how that would cause the noise I'm hearing, but who knows. I'd think that a dry strut bearing would make a "pop" or dragging sound when the wheel turns.
 

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Discussion Starter #106
Agreed. Appt is scheduled for early next week. Thankfully, I can consistently reproduce the knock by turning into their service department parking lot. :)

I'll keep this thread informed when I know more.

During my research I came across a Mazda 3 thread (can't find it now) that was very similar. Their fix was to grease the strut bearing. Some were bone dry from the factory. I can't see how that would cause the noise I'm hearing, but who knows. I'd think that a dry strut bearing would make a "pop" or dragging sound when the wheel turns.

It's vital to be able to reproduce the noise, so that's great you know of a spot! I have many around the dealerships here that I can make the car make the noise.


Did you check out my Youtube videos to see if the noise is similar to what your car is making?



I also saw that Mazda 3 thread about the dry strut bearings and ran it by one of the first Technicians who was working on my car. After reading more about it I don't think we ended up moving ahead with that solution as it didn't seem to be it....but it's tough to say for sure. I agree with your train of thought...it would do the noise most of the time if it were a dry bearing which isn't the case.
 

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Discussion Starter #108
Well, I would like to welcome you to the 2018 Mazda6 Signature experience! ;)
 

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Mine makes the same noise too! My 2016 Grand Touring never made that type of noise and it had around 43,000 miles when I traded it in...
 

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Put silicone spray on the rear control arm bushings (the large rubber ones) on both sides.

See if it goes away.

If it does it'll come back until the car has some miles on it, but it's easily mitigated and the mitigation is usually good for a few thousand miles. Mine did it, I couldn't find the cause in terms of anything being loose or not torqued to-spec (checked it myself) but hitting that bushing with silicone fixed it. It came back on roughly oil-change intervals but somewhere around 50-60k miles disappeared and hasn't returned.

In my case it only happened once or twice when the car had been parked overnight -- I suspect the control arm was sticking in the bushing and then "releasing" on the first modest bump or load, then ok rest-of-day. That sort of thing is going to be a royal biaaatch for a mechanic to find ...
 

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Put silicone spray on the rear control arm bushings (the large rubber ones) on both sides.

See if it goes away.

If it does it'll come back until the car has some miles on it, but it's easily mitigated and the mitigation is usually good for a few thousand miles. Mine did it, I couldn't find the cause in terms of anything being loose or not torqued to-spec (checked it myself) but hitting that bushing with silicone fixed it. It came back on roughly oil-change intervals but somewhere around 50-60k miles disappeared and hasn't returned.

In my case it only happened once or twice when the car had been parked overnight -- I suspect the control arm was sticking in the bushing and then "releasing" on the first modest bump or load, then ok rest-of-day. That sort of thing is going to be a royal biaaatch for a mechanic to find ...
I think this might be different, not sure. Mine will do it all day over the same bumps. I can turn around, go back over the same bumps and it does it again. I suppose it could be sticking perpetually and simply catching/releasing at the right moments.

It's going in again tomorrow, I'll bring this up and see if they can lube the large rear bushing on the front left lower control arm. It does make some sense, because it would appear to go away for a day after it's been on the lift, suspension fully extended.

Why not the CX-5/9 that have 10x as many models on the road and same control arm/bushing? Or the 2017 M6? Did they change something just for the 2018 M6 suspension? Isn't the CX5 assembled in the US while the M6 is overseas? Did our Japanese friends skip the greasing step? :D

[EDIT] they are both assembled at the Hofu Plant No. 2 (H2). :)

I looked myself and can't see how spraying just the end would lube the entire bushing mating surfaces being that it's 3-4" in length. Does it wick inside somehow?
 

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Discussion Starter #112
I think this might be different, not sure. Mine will do it all day over the same bumps. I can turn around, go back over the same bumps and it does it again. I suppose it could be sticking perpetually and simply catching/releasing at the right moments.

It's going in again tomorrow, I'll bring this up and see if they can lube the large rear bushing on the front left lower control arm. It does make some sense, because it would appear to go away for a day after it's been on the lift, suspension fully extended.

Why not the CX-5/9 that have 10x as many models on the road and same control arm/bushing? Or the 2017 M6? Did they change something just for the 2018 M6 suspension? Isn't the CX5 assembled in the US while the M6 is overseas? Did our Japanese friends skip the greasing step? :D

[EDIT] they are both assembled at the Hofu Plant No. 2 (H2). :)

I looked myself and can't see how spraying just the end would lube the entire bushing mating surfaces being that it's 3-4" in length. Does it wick inside somehow?
Funny you should ask. Mazda did a lot of changes to the suspension...here is what they replied to my tweet with back in January,

" The front and rear stabilizers are bonded to the mount bushings to have smoother suspension strokes. The direction of the load to front coil springs is also more aligned. In addition, the diameters of front dampers have increased from 32mm to 35mm. Other improvements include: a revised bump stopper characteristic, increased gap between bump stopper and damper cylinder, increased damper cylinder diameter, revised damper valve structure, and rigid steering gear mounts."
 

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I looked myself and can't see how spraying just the end would lube the entire bushing mating surfaces being that it's 3-4" in length. Does it wick inside somehow?
It does indeed wick inside..... and at least on my car was very effective at putting a stop to the noise -- which was quite annoying.
 

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Discussion Starter #114
It does indeed wick inside..... and at least on my car was very effective at putting a stop to the noise -- which was quite annoying.

I can attest to this. Although, I don't think my noise, and perhaps yours as well, is the bushings, when I sprayed my anti-sway bar bushings they worked the silicone into themselves after a short drive. It's impressive.
 

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I can attest to this. Although, I don't think my noise, and perhaps yours as well, is the bushings, when I sprayed my anti-sway bar bushings they worked the silicone into themselves after a short drive. It's impressive.
Yep -- my kid's '03 Jetta (formerly mine) was making a fairly annoying creaky noise that I was able to isolate to the front swaybar bushings. Hit them with the silicone and after a couple trips over a speed bump it disappeared as it worked its way into there and shut it up.
 

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I can attest to this. Although, I don't think my noise, and perhaps yours as well, is the bushings, when I sprayed my anti-sway bar bushings they worked the silicone into themselves after a short drive. It's impressive.
Have you tried spraying the crap out of your rear bushing to see if it helps at all? I thought I knew what a sticky bushing sounded like, but every car is different... All I know is that the video of your clunk sounds just like mine, and it sounds nothing like the M6's with creaky suspension bushings. I will definitely give the lube a shot because it's easy to do, but I don't have high expectations.

I, myself, will be looking into this a bit more in depth, the dealer had no luck this second time. They couldn't reproduce the sound and everything appears OK from their perspective... and of course I heard it multiple times while driving it back to work, over the sound of the radio.
 

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Not to be a downer, but I'm guessing it is a combination of the new strut size/design and geometry change when the wheel is hard lock to the left. Could be a limitation of the 5 year old chassis/body design and the new suspension changes. Ultimately, may boil down to what Mazda considered a reasonable engineering tradeoff for an overall improved ride and handling balance. Arguably, the side-effect is restricted to a narrow use case that occurs briefly under certain rare conditions. i.e. engineering tradeoff.

Or as I hypothesized before, it could be a design/manufacturing issue with the new shock.

Of course I'm mostly talking out of my ass. But am familiar enough with engineering benefit/tradeoff to make an educated guess.

IMO



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Not to be a downer, but I'm guessing it is a combination of the new strut size/design and geometry change when the wheel is hard lock to the left. Could be a limitation of the 5 year old chassis/body design and the new suspension changes. Ultimately, may boil down to what Mazda considered a reasonable engineering tradeoff for an overall improved ride and handling balance. Arguably, the side-effect is restricted to a narrow use case that occurs briefly under certain rare conditions. i.e. engineering tradeoff.

Or as I hypothesized before, it could be a design/manufacturing issue with the new shock.

Of course I'm mostly talking out of my ass. But am familiar enough with engineering benefit/tradeoff to make an educated guess.

IMO



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Ha, yeah. I'm sure it's an engineering trade-off somewhere. I wish it was only at full lock, but a slight right turn while going over broken pavement is enough to make it clunk... which means pretty much any right turn with bumps or cracks could set it off. :) Under high lateral loads, like actual corning with fun intended, it's rock solid without noises.

It's almost if something in the engine bay is loose and a slight lateral force causes it to bounce a bit over bumps, but higher corning speeds really load it up and then whatever "it" is, can't bounce/clunk.
 

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Discussion Starter #119
Not to be a downer, but I'm guessing it is a combination of the new strut size/design and geometry change when the wheel is hard lock to the left. Could be a limitation of the 5 year old chassis/body design and the new suspension changes. Ultimately, may boil down to what Mazda considered a reasonable engineering tradeoff for an overall improved ride and handling balance. Arguably, the side-effect is restricted to a narrow use case that occurs briefly under certain rare conditions. i.e. engineering tradeoff.

Or as I hypothesized before, it could be a design/manufacturing issue with the new shock.

Of course I'm mostly talking out of my ass. But am familiar enough with engineering benefit/tradeoff to make an educated guess.

IMO



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Very convincing! I work in Engineering and it's all about statistics!

I also think for this reason alone that it will never be solved or fixed by Mazda. There are simply not enough cars on the road/people raising the issue for them to even care.

But, maybe (just maybe) with a few different dealers investigating, they/we can solve it.
For the time being I am working on trying to get another issue fixed (seat trim issue).

I was reading the installation instructions for the Corksport lowering springs and did noticed that there is a rubber noise isolater...and the noise I hear is a bouncing RUBBER noise...hmmmmm.
 

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Ha, yeah. I'm sure it's an engineering trade-off somewhere. I wish it was only at full lock, but a slight right turn while going over broken pavement is enough to make it clunk... which means pretty much any right turn with bumps or cracks could set it off. :) Under high lateral loads, like actual corning with fun intended, it's rock solid without noises.



It's almost if something in the engine bay is loose and a slight lateral force causes it to bounce a bit over bumps, but higher corning speeds really load it up and then whatever "it" is, can't bounce/clunk.
Interesting. I only hear it going left out of my driveway. Not right.

The other variable here is reative to how people are hearing the issue. Some call it a bang some call it a rubbery bang. I consider it slightly metallic.

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