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That gets you a $300 difference if I just did the math right. With all the options I wanted on my Touring pushed it were it made more sense to just get the GT.

What color did you get?
Blue/tan. They had to go get the car. Tan/beige/whatever is not common.

I considered the GT because of the power passenger seat, only reason. It was about $2800 more IIRC, from the Touring with two packages up to the basic GT, speaking MSRP.
 

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Blue/tan. They had to go get the car. Tan/beige/whatever is not common.

I considered the GT because of the power passenger seat, only reason. It was about $2800 more IIRC, from the Touring with two packages up to the basic GT, speaking MSRP.

The tan makes sense on a lease and I would have probably done it too but as I purchased the car I went the safe route with black seats.
They actually had the blue one available in GT with Tan and it looked great!
 

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Do you guys think I can pull off a M6 Touring AT in Soul Red with neither package but with a Rear Spoiler(350$) Door Sil Trim plates(125$), Rear Bumper guard(125$), Trunk Tray(99$) and All Weather Floor mats out the door for 24K? I will be transferring a plate, 7% sales tax and I will get the 500$ for financing through Mazda. Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Folks here have done ~25k on a 2016 Touring, but 24k OTD on a touring with all those goodies will be quite a stretch. I dont know about 2017s, but until 2016 Soul Red was considered a premium color, and Mazda wanted $300 for it. If you can wait, i suggest holding your purchase until Jul-Aug when Mazda will start pushing out the 2018 model.
 

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I might just do that, Im selling some land and the bank just pushed the closing back to June 9th, which is the $$ I need to purchase the car. Might be worth the wait.
 

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I'm in NJ with ~7% sales tax. I just bought a 2017 soul red touring auto with no options for 25,000 otd with zero percent financing and no money down. negotiations were pretty straightforward since I had no trade in and knew exactly what color and trim level I wanted. My dealer had a pretty big inventory of 6s so they looked eager to cut a good deal right off the bat.
 

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I'm in NJ with ~7% sales tax. I just bought a 2017 soul red touring auto with no options for 25,000 otd with zero percent financing and no money down. negotiations were pretty straightforward since I had no trade in and knew exactly what color and trim level I wanted. My dealer had a pretty big inventory of 6s so they looked eager to cut a good deal right off the bat.


I decided the changes weren't worth me pursuing a 2017 (since only new) so looked for my Soul red in a 16' Grand Touring CPO with nice added warranty and 6k on the clock. No additional packages- $25k plus tax


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Discussion Starter #28
I decided the changes weren't worth me pursuing a 2017 (since only new) so looked for my Soul red in a 16' Grand Touring CPO with nice added warranty and 6k on the clock. No additional packages- $25k plus tax


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Congratulations. I must say the depreciation on these cars is a little worrying. If the dealer sold you a '16 GT with 6k miles for 25k, he must've bought it ~21k ish since they usually have a good 3-4k margin on newer used cars. My 2016 GT cost me $30k+ brand new, so that's 30% depreciation . Yikes !
 

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Congratulations. I must say the depreciation on these cars is a little worrying. If the dealer sold you a '16 GT with 6k miles for 25k, he must've bought it ~21k ish since they usually have a good 3-4k margin on newer used cars. My 2016 GT cost me $30k+ brand new, so that's 30% depreciation . Yikes !


This particular car was never titled by anyone but Mazda USA, it was used by a Mazda sales rep then on loaner lot for a month or so. If that helps.


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I will do my best to get it to 24 OTD and my credit sucks since my identity theft so I can throw how much in interest they will make off me back at them as well. I will go to 24,500 as this is really all I can spend. Didnt want to spend over 23 till I saw the M6 and didnt want the sport model. Might end up with a 17' barely used one if they wont drop below 24,500.
 

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Ok, did the paperwork on my M6 touring AT in Soul Red with the touring premium package and a rear spoiler. I was Out the Door at 26,900$ with a 4 year maintenence package. Had to go through 3 dealers to get that price under 27k$ My local dealer was at 27,700$ with only a 3 year maintenence package. One other was 27,200$ but I wasnt going a dime over 27K$.
 

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Great Price

I just got my new 2017 Mazda 6 Touring ATX with the Moon Roof/Bose package for offer price $21,997 in the Deep Crystal Blue. I don't remember the exact number but my OTD was about $23,050. This was the best price around by $2k. :grin2:

MSRP was $27,445
 

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I just got my new 2017 Mazda 6 Touring ATX with the Moon Roof/Bose package for offer price $21,997 in the Deep Crystal Blue. I don't remember the exact number but my OTD was about $23,050. This was the best price around by $2k. :grin2:

MSRP was $27,445
That about matches my situation. MSRP $28,925, paid $23,140 before TTL/trade. For me too it was the best price (I found) in all of Central FL by $2k.
 

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Here's the breakdown on what I paid:

2017 MAZDA MAZDA6 SPORT 6MT

Suggested Retail Price
22,780.00
Discount Savings
-2,441.00
Rebate Savings
-3,000.00
Vehicle (after Savings)
17,339.00
Accessories
497.00 (LoJack)
Taxes / Fees
2,299.48
Due On Delivery
20,135.48

I received $500 for my 2004 Mazda3 (it was beat to hell) and added 5yr maintenance coverage for $1500 to it came out to $21,135.48 total.
 

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I've started to only go through the 'internet sales person' - despite what the dealers on the floor say about 'internet pricing is fantasy' the i'net sales people are real close to the online Kelly's estimates, and a lot easier to lie with.
This is what I did for mine. I saw the 6MT Sport on Cars.Com and used the form on the side to ask for best pricing for financing versus cash prices (and please include taxes and fees). In 30 minutes I had a response with the full breakdown I posted above. Made an appointment to go in and test drive it then signed the paperwork once I was done and wrote a check.

Easiest car I've ever bought!
 

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2017 Touring M/T Machine Gray

2017 Mazda 6 Touring M/T, Machine Gray Metallic

Total Amount Financed (Out-The-Door): $24831

The total above includes taxes, fees, registration, etc., and a loss of $2647 on my trade-in.

I traded my 2015 Mazda 6 Touring M/T, Meteor Gray with just over 11,000 miles for $14,100. Prior to accepting the dealer's offer I posted ads on AutoTrader and Craigslist for about a week @ $16,500 and ended up getting only one potential buyer. I called around to several dealers to see what I could get for my 2015 on trade and their offers ranged from $10,500 - $14,000. The $14,000 offer was from CarMax and the dealer I purchased from had a policy of beating CarMax offers, so they gave me $14,100. I don't like losing money on a trade but I had my reasons for wanting to get rid of that car. In my opinion the best thing to do if you plan to finance a car is to come up with the monthly payment you want before contacting the dealer. I knew what I wanted my payments to be and that's what I negotiated on, not the price of the car. Let the dealer play with the numbers and all the "fluff" to get you to the payment you want and just stick to your guns on the payment. I wanted a payment between $385-$400 a month and that's what I told the salesman. He came back to me with $428/month. I said I don't want to go over $400. He said, "So $399.50 and we have a deal?", I said yes. Did they add gap coverage? Yes they did! Did I want gap coverage? No! But I didn't care because the monthly payment was where I wanted it to be. Their doc fee was ridiculously high but my payment was where I wanted it. See what I'm saying? Let them fool with the price of the car, the fees, the extras and all that until they get to the payment you want. Of course, you have to do some realistic calculations yourself before contacting the dealer to come up with the payment, but it makes things a whole lot easier with just one number to worry about when you're negotiating. Good luck!
 

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In my opinion the best thing to do if you plan to finance a car is to come up with the monthly payment you want before contacting the dealer. I knew what I wanted my payments to be and that's what I negotiated on, not the price of the car. Let the dealer play with the numbers and all the "fluff" to get you to the payment you want and just stick to your guns on the payment. I wanted a payment between $385-$400 a month and that's what I told the salesman. He came back to me with $428/month. I said I don't want to go over $400. He said, "So $399.50 and we have a deal?", I said yes. Did they add gap coverage? Yes they did! Did I want gap coverage? No! But I didn't care because the monthly payment was where I wanted it to be. Their doc fee was ridiculously high but my payment was where I wanted it. See what I'm saying? Let them fool with the price of the car, the fees, the extras and all that until they get to the payment you want. Of course, you have to do some realistic calculations yourself before contacting the dealer to come up with the payment, but it makes things a whole lot easier with just one number to worry about when you're negotiating. Good luck!
In the interest of healthy debate and not to launch a personal attack on you, I'll say..... that's the worst way to negotiate for a car purchase. Every expert will tell you DO NOT tell the salesperson what you want your monthly payment to be. Easiest way for them to screw you. Best way to negotiate is to hammer them down on the actual purchase price (without telling them you have a trade), then hammer them up on your trade value, then hammer them down on all their BS fees. Next best way is to get 3-4 offers in writing from separate dealers and then get them to compete against each other.

If you don't have the stomach for that, hire a "personal buyer" for a few hundred bucks to search out the best deal and negotiate for you.
 

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DeepCrystal17, I don't take your comments as a personal attack or take any offense to them whatsoever. Everyone has their own way of doing things and that happens to be mine. As an example, if I want a car for $20,000 out-the-door and a loan term of 60 months @ 3.29%APR I plug the numbers in my calculator and get my monthly payment. I don't consider what the dealer wants for the car then run the numbers, I run the numbers based on what I'm willing to give for the car. Not sure if that's how my previous post came across but that's what I meant to imply.
 

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DeepCrystal17, I don't take your comments as a personal attack or take any offense to them whatsoever. Everyone has their own way of doing things and that happens to be mine. As an example, if I want a car for $20,000 out-the-door and a loan term of 60 months @ 3.29%APR I plug the numbers in my calculator and get my monthly payment. I don't consider what the dealer wants for the car then run the numbers, I run the numbers based on what I'm willing to give for the car. Not sure if that's how my previous post came across but that's what I meant to imply.
If you have a specific car on their lot that you've done all the homework for, then that might work. But don't walk in and say "I want a Mazda6 and I can afford $400 a month." You will get screwed.

https://www.cbsnews.com/media/3-things-you-should-never-tell-a-car-salesman/4/
 

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That's exactly what I'm mean, DeepCrystal17. I agree with you and wouldn't tell anyone to walk into a dealer unprepared. I find the car I want online, calculate the monthly payment I want, then I call the dealer. I don't actually go to the dealer until an agreement has been made on the payment. My time at the dealer is spent looking over the vehicle and signing the paperwork. If finally they want to add extras into the payment I don't care as long as it stays the same. They may lower the sales price but add gap coverage because it's more profitable for them, but if my payment stays the same what do I care? I could go in and do what you described and that would also work but it's more variables to keep track of instead of just one number. I could tell the salesman I want the purchase price to be $XXX. I want $XXX for my trade. I don't want to pay more than $XXX for your fees and so forth. In the end, as long as someone gets the price/payment they want, it doesn't matter what method they use when buying a car.
 
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