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Hey everyone, new here!
I've purchased an 2017 Mazda 6 (64 000km) around 2 months ago and I've encountered some weird behaviors. It is my first car and don't know a lot of knowledge on cars in general.
Before I got the car, I had it checked at a garage making sure everything was fine, and they said it was like brand new.
After I got the car, I had my 1st oil change 1 week ago. (Pennzoil 0W20 Ultra Platinum Synthetic Engine Oil)
The following problems were there before the oil change and after oil change.

A. Cold engine start delay.
When I start the car from cold (42.8F-59F), usually in the morning or first time during the day. It takes an extra half second to a second for the car to start after pushing the ignition button. I can hear the engine trying to start the car for the extra half to one second.

B. Transmission delay.
After the car is turned on, I back out from my driveway and pull the automatic stick from R to D (usually I pull it pretty fast, but not very hard) Step on the gas, and my car feels like it is on neutral, hearing the engine revving. After a second, the clutch catches on and my car will shoot forward. (the jerking strength will depend on how much gas I added) (how much gas I put does not influence the length of the delay)


My questions are:
1. Do I need repairs? If yes, any idea what part may be failing? Are the repairs still under warranty?
2. Are any of the 2 behaviors normal across most cars?
3. Are any of the 2 behaviors normal on my car with the millage that I have?
4. If behavior B is normal, should I just wait the extra second after Shifting to Drive? Or maybe not shift as fast? Does the slip and grab damage my transmission a lot?
 

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1. Do you wait for your rpms to drop before driving?
2. How quick are you on the gas from shifting to neutral?

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
 

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The cold-start delay is normal as it takes a couple more revolutions to fire. However, if the cranking speed is low your battery is likely nearing its end-of-life. Since we're headed into winter, and the cold impairs ALL batteries ability to deliver current, where you don't want to find out the battery is spent is when it is -20F and you REALLY need the car to start.

On the slow engagement when cold for an ATX this is reasonably normal. Again, the issue is that the fluid is much colder and thicker. HOWEVER, when you shift into "D" wait until the gearbox engages before applying the accelerator; doing so materially reduces wear.
 

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Hmmm ... Interesting problems. Respect the comments above, but frankly on 2017 with 64K, I don't think any of those symptoms are approaching normal.
Hard starting? First port of call would codes. Anything from a code scan will help provide some direction. Most like area for exploraation would be fuel pressure and fuel flow. High pressure monitoring can be achieved with a scantool. Low pressure side can be done with a nomal fuel pressure gauge/adapter. There is some potential for this to be ignition related, tho less less likely.

Transmission? I think it's unrelated to the start issue. Did not the 2016-17 autos on the 3s (and I assume the 6s) have some Transmission module issues? Check dealer for recalls and manufacturer program updates. Other most likely culprit here is low oil, but at 64K that would be a real mystery unless you've got an oil leak or leak into coolant ... not sure if the oil cooler is in the radiator, but it's an easy check because you'd have oil sludge in the coolant.

I'd certainly not be treating it as normal ...
 

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I'm with Ticker on this one, the cold starting thing is completely normal since these engines are high compression it takes a little more to start first thing in the morning going along with the battery advice as well, And again with these transmissions they're very notchy even with a manual. I drive new Mazdas all day every day and the transmissions all due that, you really do need to wait until the gear selector says it's in gear and then just wait a little more so you can actually feel the gear engage. There's no fix for it, it's just how they're built.
 

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I have 120,000 miles had it since 35,000miles on my 2015 mazda 6 I can tell you both are normal.
 

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Just went through all of this with my 2015. It resulted in the vehicle going into "limp mode" and the battery having to be replaced. Everything reset after the installation of the new battery.
 

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What Trollz and Ticker and maz615 say should be some reassurance.
I've never experienced anything remotely like that on my 2017 Skyactiv (45kms), nor had others present that complaint.
Be interested to hear what a Tech experienced with Skyactiv's woulds say?
Let me be clear, I'm tech trained but not working in the field. I'm a hobbyist who works on tens of cars not 100s a year and I really like the current Mazda, engine and trans.
Not only Mazda's, but any modern car with a crank/cam set up and GDI will fire up within 120deg of crank rotation, usually a lot less especially if the pcm stop-start memory stores the position of the next firing cylinder.
Anything longer than half a second, or 3 crank pulses (I'll allow 4), and I'd be questioning a cause and at least scanning.
Failing low pressure fuel pump is not unheard of, and it delays the high pressure build up.
High pressure pump failure at such low ks? I'd be stunned and looking for incorrect oil.
Weak battery can contribute to all kinds of strange Skyactiv programming issues.

On the tranny, the kind of problem described I would expect to see:
1. in a high mileage ATX where worn seals and sluggish solenoids are delaying line pressure change and build up.
2. Low fluid or very old degraded fluid in a mid life tranny
3. Incorrect fluid or mix of fluids, or additive, in a low mileage tran
4. programming issue (Look for Mazda Skyactiv ATX TSBs for the GL or the BM BN '3)
5. Possible weak battery issues (surmising here; not seen this specfically)

If there is an issues here, it will no doubt develop .... worth tracking it and, MoonRust, let us know how you go :)

Meanwhile, always appreciate hearing other people's experience and logging it in my head for future reference.
thanks for that!
Alex
 

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What Trollz and Ticker and maz615 say should be some reassurance.
I've never experienced anything remotely like that on my 2017 Skyactiv (45kms), nor had others present that complaint.
Be interested to hear what a Tech experienced with Skyactiv's woulds say?
Let me be clear, I'm tech trained but not working in the field. I'm a hobbyist who works on tens of cars not 100s a year and I really like the current Mazda, engine and trans.
Not only Mazda's, but any modern car with a crank/cam set up and GDI will fire up within 120deg of crank rotation, usually a lot less especially if the pcm stop-start memory stores the position of the next firing cylinder.
Anything longer than half a second, or 3 crank pulses (I'll allow 4), and I'd be questioning a cause and at least scanning.
Failing low pressure fuel pump is not unheard of, and it delays the high pressure build up.
High pressure pump failure at such low ks? I'd be stunned and looking for incorrect oil.
Weak battery can contribute to all kinds of strange Skyactiv programming issues.

On the tranny, the kind of problem described I would expect to see:
1. in a high mileage ATX where worn seals and sluggish solenoids are delaying line pressure change and build up.
2. Low fluid or very old degraded fluid in a mid life tranny
3. Incorrect fluid or mix of fluids, or additive, in a low mileage tran
4. programming issue (Look for Mazda Skyactiv ATX TSBs for the GL or the BM BN '3)
5. Possible weak battery issues (surmising here; not seen this specfically)

If there is an issues here, it will no doubt develop .... worth tracking it and, MoonRust, let us know how you go :)

Meanwhile, always appreciate hearing other people's experience and logging it in my head for future reference.
thanks for that!
Alex
One thing I did forget to mention is that yes there could also be a tcm or pcm update available for the vehicle which could potentially cause issues but we rarely see customers concerns involving these updates.
 
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