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Discussion Starter #1
I've been looking around and haven't seen much people on here do this so, I decided I will make a post about this.

So recently I've installed led switchbacks purchased from

(7443 HP24 Dual-Color LED (pair) - 7440 / 7443 - LED Bulbs - All Products)

after installation they work fine and look great with my HIDs




my only problem with them is the hyper blinking and I understand I need resistors but what I don't know is what wires to splice and what kind of resistor I need.

https://vimeo.com/160427549
 

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figure out which wire is your negative and which if your turn signal positive by using a volt ohm meter and the continuity setting. the load resistor should be spliced in in parallel.
 

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Since the parking lights are dual filament bulbs and use 3 different wires I was having a hard time figuring out which was positive and negative. I actually just spliced different wires with each other to test which would work and I figured out which wires to use. Now even though I got it, I accidentally cut through one of the wires and the bulb wasn't able to function properly, to fix it I used one of the scotch lock connectors I got from the resistor kit. In all I wasn't able to fix the hyper flash but I understand how to do it. Just need to buy a new resistor kit.
 

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I have the same type of lights, but mine are a hell of a lot brighter I had to black out 3 of the white LED's with black nail polish, you'll need 50W-6Ohm Load Resistors

[ame]http://www.amazon.com/Partsam-Switchback-Projector-22-5730SMD-Chevrolet/dp/B00YDN4NQW?ie=UTF8&m=A1B2SF9J2WBIQS&qid=1459227107&ref_=sr_1_95&s=merchant-items&sr=1-95[/ame]

I can't remember to which cable I connected them, but for the rear turn signals if you also got LED's its black with yellow and blue with pink stripe i think. You'll need a load resistor for each LED i used 4.
 

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@Juan Carlo your LEDs look really nice and wow I didn't realize I could've paid a better price for these switchbacks.

Well, I finally ordered new resistors and installed them and now it works perfectly fine.

For those of you who want to do these the easiest way is through the wheel wall, literally takes 2 minutes to take off. When splicing the wires DO NOT TOUCH THE GREEN WIRE.
The other wires are what needs to be spliced in parallel. i.e (Black/Red striped and Red/Green striped).





*Do not mind the red scotch lock connector. I needed to use that to reconnect the Black/Red wire because when I was splicing I mistakenly cut the wire in half.
 

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I'd like to change my turn signals over to LED eventually but i'm trying to avoid splicing and cutting with this car, so i will probably end up going with retrofitsource LED's with the load resistor built in.
 

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Its quite easy to do. I too was thinking the same thing you said, I didnt want to ruin the car by changing all these bulbs but it only takes 30 minutes, I can walk you through it step by step. I only learned from actually just trying it without research which is why it took so long to figure out.

The only tools you need are a flat head screw driver only to remove the pins on the wheel wall and some pliers to press the scotch lock blade over the wires.

- Flat head screw driver

- Pliers

for drivers side access - Turn wheel all the way to the right.

for passenger side access - Turn wheel to the left. (Vice-versa)

Use the screwdriver to pop the pins, you only need to take out 4 pins takes 2 minutes to do.

- use a bottle or something to hold the wheel wall in such a position that you have access to the parking light bulb.

- reach in twist right or left depending on which side your doing - take out the bulb pull out the halogen bulb and pop in the led.

- If you like the hyper blinking you can put everything back together no problem.

- To get rid of the hyper blink all you need is a resistor here's the one I used

https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/flashers-load-resistors/led-light-load-resistor-kit-led-turn-signal-hyper-flash-warning-fix/190/831/

- (Only use the red and green wire and splice with the black and red wire when splicing)

- You cant really mess up once you know what wires to splice the resistor kit comes with scotch locks that splice for you so you aren't doing any wire cutting by yourself and the scotch locks don't cut the wire in half completely they only cut in such a way to reveal the copper strings inside to make the connection. So if you make a mistake you can just take off the splice and tape up with some electrical tape.(That is only if you didn't cut the wire in half)

- If you cut a wire in half you can always reconnect with one of the scotch lock connectors(As I did above)
 

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I've been looking around and haven't seen much people on here do this so, I decided I will make a post about this.

So recently I've installed led switchbacks purchased from

(7443 HP24 Dual-Color LED (pair) - 7440 / 7443 - LED Bulbs - All Products)

after installation they work fine and look great with my HIDs




my only problem with them is the hyper blinking and I understand I need resistors but what I don't know is what wires to splice and what kind of resistor I need.

https://vimeo.com/160427549
What kind of hid kit do you have? I bought the same switchback kit from superbright leds but they dont match my headlights. Ive got amazon hid kit "Kensun 35w 5k". Do you think the 55w 6k kit would help match?


Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk
 

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This thread has been super helpful with my build. Thanks @DeletePhoto!

So I installed some cheapos with T-taps and followed the wiring instructions here. Worked like a charm... for a while at least. Then the passenger side started acting funny. It wouldn't flash amber when unlocking. With parking/headlights ON it would stay white (normal) but the turn signal made it flash white. I figured the cheap switchback had died so I threw down and got some new Morimoto X-VF.

I installed the new Morimoto switchbacks and that's when the real mystery began. Everything worked at first and I put back the wheel well panel. Then suddenly the passenger side did not illuminate white. Turn signal works but the passenger side will not light up white no matter what. I check the fuse, swapped the bulbs, disconnected the resistors, went back to stock halogens...
I've basically isolated this to the passenger side problem. Both blinkers hyperflash (despite being hooked up to resistors). I even tried the old switchbacks. Turns out the one I thought "died" worked fine in the drivers side. Something weird is going on on the passenger side wiring.

What would you guys try? Where would you start trouble shooting?

Thanks for your help.
 

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Hey guys,

I know this is an old thread, but I'm hoping you guys are still around and can help me out.

I want to install the switchbacks listed in this thread in my 2014 Mazda6, and I really like the way it looks in the video, but I'm on a tight budget and really can't afford to screw things up in terms of electrical, and I've barely touched this car (all parts are original at this point, except for HID headlights, that I had professionally installed).

Basically, I have no prior working or theoretical knowledge of electrical dealing with circuits etc. What I do know is that the resistors are needed because the LEDs require much less power, and the resistors are needed to regulate the alternating blinking frequency of the turn signals, but these run hot as they 'absorb' this extra current. :smile2: (or something to that effect).

So, i see two options in this thread and would like to understand:

1. When @DeletePhoto installed the switchbacks and placed the resistors, how exactly and where where the resistors mounted at the front of the vehicle?
2. @chutoyy, when you installed the load resistor adaptor in the trunk, where did you mount the resistors? I assumed you needed to do this as they heat up as well?

Thanks in advance guys, and hope to hear back from you soon!
 

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Sorry to revive an old thread, but I am in the middle of this same mod. I was trying to avoid having to deal with splicing wires to add the resistors. I did some searching and found some plug and play resistors from Putco. These don't require any splicing. They have a connector for the bulb itself on one end and a connector for the wiring harness connection on the other. They come with the same orange-ish aluminum resistor that you see elsewhere, but they are more convenient. The only thing that I was surprised by is that the 7443 kit comes with two resistors attached - possibly because of the dual filament bulbs? One downside is that these are not cheap, but when you factor in the ease of use - I think it is worth it.

One thing that I did notice: the pictures show a pretty short cable with a black resistor attached. The actual product is more of a circular cable with the orangish resistor(s) in-line and a cable casing to cover up the wires. I'll post some actual pictures of these later.

Here is what the web photos look like:



And here is the actual product: Will add later

https://www.putco.com/plug-play-resistor-system

I just selected the make and model of my car and then selected the 7443 and the 7440 versions.
 
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