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Discussion Starter #1
I have never had any issues with my 6 until 2 days ago. I was driving along and heard what sounded like a belt slip off a pulley or something similar, (kind of a squeal). Immediately the car lost power and I began to coast till I could safely pull over. Once at a stop, I turned the push to start off, and then tried to restart the engine. The battery light came on and flashed so I stopped. I got it home and tried to jump off the battery after cleaning the connections and hooking back up. The battery was completely dead to the point the interior lights didn’t have enough juice to come on. Once hooked up to my truck, the battery was able to charge enough to bring the dash and interior lights back on but not enough to start. I checked the serpentine belt that comes around the alternator pulley and it was not broken or loose. I had a shop come pick it up to take a look at it and they are saying the battery is dead, and the starter is bad... then he says that the engine is seized...? Just trying to figure out if this sounds legitimate or if he’s just trying to make a buck? He’s already gotten the pricing on a new engine from Mazda and is quoting $6,500 with parts and labor... please advise! Thank you!
 

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2016 6
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I believe so, that is the fuse connection that comes from the positive port on the battery right?
Not necessarily, all gen 6 model Mazda’s have a red fuse(s) on the positive battery cable. The I-ELOOP system is a different type of battery/charging system which uses capacitors to hold energy instead of a battery. You would have some type of graphic in the gauge cluster that would show how your braking/coasting builds the energy in the capacitors. Anyways when you did get your battery charged up with your truck we’re you able to crank the vehicle over at all?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Not necessarily, all gen 6 model Mazda’s have a red fuse(s) on the positive battery cable. The I-ELOOP system is a different type of battery/charging system which uses capacitors to hold energy instead of a battery. You would have some type of graphic in the gauge cluster that would show how your braking/coasting builds the energy in the capacitors. Anyways when you did get your battery charged up with your truck we’re you able to crank the vehicle over at all?
No, once I had it hooked up to my truck it would only the push ignition would fire but nothing else... after trying once or twice it would run the battery back down to zero to where the dash lights would go out. I let it charge for at least 20-25 minutes in between and still the same.
 

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Sounds like something with the battery/charging system rather than the Engine being seized. I think that the mechanic wasn't able to figure out how to start it so he might have assumed the engine is seized. There is an easy way to confirm that it's not though. You have to manually turn the crankshaft via the big bolt on the crank pulley. If it turns, your engine is not seized. It seems highly unlikely to me that you have a seized engine.
 

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I agree with what AJ014 said.
One thing to add, Pull the spark plugs before trying to rotate the engine so your not fighting the compression stroke. And rotate clockwise.
 
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