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Right rear shock on wife’s 2015 6 Grand Touring is starting to leak. Is there anything to the replacement process other than just undoing the lower bolt and undoing the upper nut hidden behind the panels in the trunk then swapping the new unit in? Saw some bracketry at the top of the wheel wheel, does that have anything to do with the replacement?
 

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There are two bolts that hold the bracket on the top (26-30 ft/lbs torque on reinstallation) and the main bolt on the bottom (two types may be on the car, either a straight stud that bolts in to 35 ft/lbs and the nut on the end with washer is tightened to 100 ft/lbs, or one with a split-collar washer (you'll see which it is when you take it off) that is one bolt and is tightened to 110 ft/lbs.

Very straight-forward; just have a jack you can use under the lower arm as you'll definitely want it.

Check the condition of the jounce bumper on the top if it doesn't come with whatever you buy for replacement (it usually doesn't) and replace if deteriorated.

I haven't needed to remove mine yet; on the VWs the rear upper mounts have a bushing in them and they deteriorate; if you don't replace them when you replace the shocks you will frequently get a clunking back there a few tens of thousands of miles later from that bushing being worn. I don't know if the Mazdas have a similar bushing in that upper mount but if there is one inspect it carefully to make sure it's still serviceable and replace the upper mount if not.
 
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