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I'm in the same boat now and would love updates if the Bosch or Optima yellow top has worked long term. Saw this guy's post last year:

"I installed Costco's battery prior to seeing the "Stealer" this past weekend, and it worked! First, I installed the closest battery match (group 3, size is about 9X7, 12V, 550CCA) and used it for a day from home to work and back. I didn't see or notice any difference with the 6's performance, and the i-eloop meter was working/charging well. And no warning messages on the dash all day!"

Any follow up would be greatly appreciated.
 

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Yeah a non-AGM will probably die REAL fast, especially with intermittent stop/start in use. That requires a lot of cycling and VERY fast charge absorption capacity or you'll wind up with a dead cell and then a dead battery. The AGM can take very high-rate charges without damage as it has very low internal resistance -- a flooded battery cannot.
 

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another ripoff that mazda pulled on us with their ieloop batteries lmao you gain like a couple of mpg which translates to pennies in the real world and now you have to buy a $400 battery
 

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If it's 12V I'm nearly-certain it's just a relabeled AGM cell, and you can probably figure out who makes it if you look around hard enough.

AGM's are great with one severe weakness -- they are extraordinarily intolerant of overcharge since if they vent the electrolyte lost is not replaceable. This also means you can't equalize-charge them -- they'll be ruined if you do. They're also expensive, about 2x the cost of a flooded cell of equivalent amp-hours.

BUT they can run very high charge and discharge rates without any problem at all since they have extremely low internal resistance, they are not damaged by repeated discharges into the 50% range (a "starting battery" doesn't like to be drawn down by more than 10-20% -- ever -- and will have its capacity permanently impaired if it is) and will tolerate a few deep discharges so long as one of the cells doesn't go into a reverse-charge state -- most flooded batteries are ruined by even one of those.

Oh, and they're also non-spillable.

Their biggest weakness is that if they develop an internal short in one of the cells due to them being sealed that cell will gas, the case will bulge and ultimately vent, but at that point the battery is dead anyway. This failure mode is relatively common with AGMs used in UPS applications since they're usually left on float and fail on time rather than charge cycles. Like all lead-acid chemistries they have a 3-5 year service life before they fail due to chemical degradation PROVIDED you don't get them too hot.

I use 'em in places where they make sense but in most cars they do not simply because you really don't get any more service life out of them, the deep discharge capacity and high charge acceptance rate isn't worth paying for in a starting battery and the price is double that of a decent flooded unit. But in an application like this where you're going to get a lot of stop/start cycles they're the right tool for the job.
 

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The same thing happened to me in Jan 2018 my i-eloop stopped charging and i was given that same warning message. My 2015 Mazda 6 was around the 3 year mark back then with i think around 40k miles. The dealer quoted me $600 for the service.

But i was extremely disappointed and surprised the battery stopped functioning properly this early so I gave Mazda corporate a call and explained my issue and emphasized that a battery should last longer than 3 years/40k miles and the guy I was talking to agreed and after talking to his manager he was able to give me $300 credit towards a repair service. I was just happy to get something back so I used it to get my battery replaced l.
 

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I've had the Bosch battery in for the last 1.5 weeks with zero issue. Oddly enough, the car seems to "feel" smoother....hard to explain. It's probably in my head. Anyway, zero issues so far and will report back in time.
 

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Well, the dreaded "BATTERY Management" light came on my 2014 6GT. Overnight the battery died, as it did not have enough power to start the car in the morn. I took it to the local dealer in Amarillo, Texas. They told me battery was not in stock and would call Interstate Battery in Dallas to see where one can be located. Well there was "one" in Austin, and is being shipped to Amarillo. Cost 400 plus 1/2 hour labor. I called Mazda HQ but nothing can be done. Car has 18K.

Dealer told me I-ELOOP was a mistake. Just avail in 14 and 15.

Interstate will guarantee the new battery for 3 years replacement and two additional pro-rate. I will need to sell the car within 3 years.

Perhaps a class action lawsuit is in orderr?
 

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I would just buy an AGM battery (which will run you close to $200, but not $400) and change it yourself. The reason you need AGM is the cycle currents on that system are very high and frequent; a flooded or (especially) gel battery is not appropriate as the internal resistance is too high.

There are people who have done it on the forum after confirming it's a 12V battery -- the issue is that you have to find an AGM that will fit and has the terminals in the right place. But they're available. I get real, real nervous with any storage battery that has sat on a shelf somewhere and look at date codes before buying -- storage batteries, like all rechargable batteries, have a service life that is largely a factor of TIME, not just cycles and use. That's especially true if they're sitting and haven't been maintenance-charged (and almost NOBODY ever does that when they're in someone's stockroom.)
 

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I have a 16' Mazda 6 GT that is having some cold start issues in this sub freezing weather. No i-Eloop warning indicators, but I do notice it's not charging while driving on the highway. One online source mentions that it won't charge if the amp draw is over 50. Considering the heat is blasting in the car, that might be a reason, but I'll test again today since it's a warm day. I'm 500 miles short of 80k on the odometer.

I just placed an order for the Bosch Platinum AGM at Pepboys for $152. Will try it out and report back.
 

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Update: I finally installed the Bosch AGM Group 35 battery in my Mazda and so far everything is running great!

 

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Update: I finally installed the Bosch AGM Group 35 battery in my Mazda and so far everything is running great!



Nice! I’m having the same exact issue with mine this the second time in less than a year since it’s been replaced.

Does that Bosch battery allow the i-eloop system to charge it back up?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Nice! I’m having the same exact issue with mine this the second time in less than a year since it’s been replaced.

Does that Bosch battery allow the i-eloop system to charge it back up?


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You've already replaced your battery with something else? This was my first battery replacement, and the i-eloop battery started charging after 10 minutes of driving.

 

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Does anyone know of any retailers in Canada or that will ship to Canada. Dont want to pay dealership price for a new battery but might just have to. Thanks
 

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You've already replaced your battery with something else? This was my first battery replacement, and the i-eloop battery started charging after 10 minutes of driving.





I have the 2015 Mazda 6 GT and yeah the dealership replaced it with another OEM i-eloop battery on Feb 2018 (had about 60k Miles) and now I’m having the same problem where it doesn’t charge anymore. So i’m going back to the dealership to hopefully get it done under warranty.

Also good to know you don’t need a Mazda battery to get it the i-loop working!


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Does anyone know of any retailers in Canada or that will ship to Canada. Dont want to pay dealership price for a new battery but might just have to. Thanks
You can get AGM batteries from Canadian Tire or just about any other auto parts stores in Canada. If might seem cheaper seeing the US prices, but shipping is going to be expensive. Better off buying one locally.
 

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I have the 2015 Mazda 6 GT and yeah the dealership replaced it with another OEM i-eloop battery on Feb 2018 (had about 60k Miles) and now I’m having the same problem where it doesn’t charge anymore. So i’m going back to the dealership to hopefully get it done under warranty.

Also good to know you don’t need a Mazda battery to get it the i-loop working!


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A new battery should not have fail so quickly. You should check the part number on your current failed battery. It might be the dealer just installed a regular battery instead of the correct high capacity one required for I-ELoop system.
 

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Just got back from the dealership and they were not able to receive any error codes related to the battery issue of course. I told them to run the battery through their stress test machine and it passed surprisingly. So they said there is nothing more they could do. So after I took the car back, I saw the battery charging again...magic lol i have no clue what caused it to fix itself maybe the stress test who knows! But glad its working again. BTW its funny how I have to explain to them what the i-eloop system is everytime.
 

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Just got back from the dealership and they were not able to receive any error codes related to the battery issue of course. I told them to run the battery through their stress test machine and it passed surprisingly. So they said there is nothing more they could do. So after I took the car back, I saw the battery charging again...magic lol i have no clue what caused it to fix itself maybe the stress test who knows! But glad its working again. BTW its funny how I have to explain to them what the i-eloop system is everytime.
Sometimes it happens, just like magic! I remember back then, I have an issue with the lifeboat. It won't start right away and we thought that it was the battery.

When the superintendent arrived, we showed them how hard to start the lifeboat. Much to our surprise, the engine started with one click!

And once the superintendent left us, I tried to start the lifeboat. Then it happened, it won't start. Just like magic...
 
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