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Discussion Starter #1
Need your help. I have been driving my Mazda for almost 3 years (37K miles) and finally noticed the "Battery Management System Inspection" for about a week now. I thought of buying one of Costco's Interstate Battery (550 CCA w/ the same size), do it myself, and save money. However, I also read it online that only Mazda dealers may be able to assist me with the battery replacement for about $400-$600.

Is it really worth spending $400-$600 for a battery replacement? This is my first Mazda car by the way:)

Thoughts?

Thanks!
 

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$400-600 for a battery?! This is why we call them stealerships.

Double check your manual, but you should be fine with any 'ol battery.
 

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I think if he has Iloop or whatever it's called ...you can't just drop in a regular battery.


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Oh crap I forgot the 2015s had that option - If that's the case then you might be SOL :(
 

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Need your help. I have been driving my Mazda for almost 3 years (37K miles) and finally noticed the "Battery Management System Inspection" for about a week now. I thought of buying one of Costco's Interstate Battery (550 CCA w/ the same size), do it myself, and save money. However, I also read it online that only Mazda dealers may be able to assist me with the battery replacement for about $400-$600.

Is it really worth spending $400-$600 for a battery replacement? This is my first Mazda car by the way:)

Thoughts?

Thanks!
I am in the same situation right now....2014 GT with i-Eloop which requires a special Mazda Q85 battery. I got the same battery maintenance message this week. The i-Eloop apparently REQUIRES the special battery and yes it retails for about $400 USD. I've been trying to find a cheaper after-market replacement but so far i've found nothing yet. I may have to resort to calling the local stealership.... :(
 

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I am in the same situation right now....2014 GT with i-Eloop which requires a special Mazda Q85 battery. I got the same battery maintenance message this week. The i-Eloop apparently REQUIRES the special battery and yes it retails for about $400 USD. I've been trying to find a cheaper after-market replacement but so far i've found nothing yet. I may have to resort to calling the local stealership.... :(
Thanks for confirming this......wow what's a nuisance. If it's such a specific battery, I'd even be hesitant to get it anywhere BUT Mazda.....
 

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Thanks for confirming this......wow what's a nuisance. If it's such a specific battery, I'd even be hesitant to get it anywhere BUT Mazda.....


Kinda makes you wonder why even go with the Iloop in the first place if the battery cost that much.


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Kinda makes you wonder why even go with the Iloop in the first place if the battery cost that much.


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Agreed....had i known this caveat about it when i purchased the car (used) i would have found a non-iEloop GT. The extra 1-2mpg isnt worth it.
 

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Wow thats really interesting i have a 2015 GT with the iEloop battery and about 53k miles. No message here yet crossing my fingers. Did not realize they cost so much!!


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Discussion Starter #11
Thank you, all. I appreciate all the tips and already contacted a nearby "Stealer" to rob me this weekend.
 

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Stick a voltmeter on that battery with the car off. Is it a 12V battery? If it is, find the size and terminal orientation match for it -- and change it. This assumes you can FIND said match; you might not be able to, which sends you to the stealer as well.

If it's not 12V then you have a problem and are probably stuck.
 

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Stick a voltmeter on that battery with the car off. Is it a 12V battery? If it is, find the size and terminal orientation match for it -- and change it. This assumes you can FIND said match; you might not be able to, which sends you to the stealer as well.

If it's not 12V then you have a problem and are probably stuck.
It is a 12v battery but its specifically designed for the i-Eloop system apparently and only made by Mazda. I called 3 dealers in Atlanta yesterday and they all were $450+ but did have them in stock. I then tried a specialty Mazda-only repair/service shop (Mazcare) and they said "call the dealer". Then....I got in touch with MazMart and was quoted $330(!!) so thats probably gonna be my best bet. Local pickup, no idea how/if it could be shipped.
 

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I would match size, amp-hours and terminal location, find an AGM that matches size and terminal location with the closest amp-hour rating I can find, and screw Mazda. If it doesn't work put the other one back and go see the Stealer.

I bet it does work.

(The reason for AGM is that they have lower internal resistance -- by a lot -- which means they can be quick-charged MUCH faster than a flooded battery can without damage.)
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Quick Update:

I installed Costco's battery prior to seeing the "Stealer" this past weekend, and it worked! First, I installed the closest battery match (group 3, size is about 9X7, 12V, 550CCA) and used it for a day from home to work and back. I didn't see or notice any difference with the 6's performance, and the i-eloop meter was working/charging well. And no warning messages on the dash all day!

Then, I'd decided to swap the old one back prior to seeing the "Stealer" and check this out...they didn't even test the battery after all as I was told there was nothing wrong with it.

Had the warning message still on and the "Stealer" tested the battery, I'm sure they would've recommended to get a new one right away for about $650 plus fees (actual dealer quote).

Long story short....the car has been running fine for four days now without any electrical or performance issues, with the same old battery, and have not seen any warning messages yet. I guess I'll just have to wait until it dies, and probably go to Costco again:)
 

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So I originally got the warning message two weeks ago and two days later it went away, no issues since....until yesterday it popped up again. I wonder if this is like a "hey man, your battery is not optimal" or "hey man, the battery is gonna die any day now" message? Not gonna spend $400 until i really have to......the car still cranks over and runs "normal" even with the message on. Haven't driven the car yet today but if this plays out like last time I am guessing the message will go away again today....

Frustrating....
 

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If you actually can use a normal battery after all, a high quality AGM would definitely be smart. I put one in mine (just for extra oomph and some more reserve capacity for my audio setup), went with the Bosch Platinum AGM, and assuming the i-eloop stuff could use it, I'd say its a great battery.
 

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Guys, a regular works fine only for short time. (Probably half year battery life). The problem is not I-loop. I-stop requires a special battery. An AGM battery is your best choice.
 
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