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The only thing I would add: Clean all surfaces around the penetrations, such as the pan/transaxle interface, and around the fill plug, BEFORE you start.

It is very important to NOT get any sort of dirt or other gunk into the transmission. With the underskirt on these cars they tend to be a LOT cleaner than most but still, it's worth making sure the area around where you will be working (especially near the fill plug!) are clean.
 

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2015 Mazda 6 I Touring
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Discussion Starter #22
Finally going to get parts and do this next week. Will update.

Note: Daughter said car was hesitating on acceleration. Based on research from here, I cleaned Mass Airflow Sensor with MAF spray and fixed it.
 

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I did a sequence of 3 drain-and-fill cycles on my 2015 last year, which I had just picked up used, when it had something roughly like 80k miles on it (don’t recall offhand). Transmission shift quality improved immediately. The old fluid was very dark. I did another drain-and-fill recently. I meant to pull the pan and replace the strainer, but it was just too blasted hot and the pan too well glued on. (-:

In your place, I’d do the same thing again, but I’d do the strainer change along with the drain-and-fill cycles.

This forum thread is from a fellow who says he replaced the factory-fill ATF on his 2014 for the first time at about 208k miles:
 

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2015 Mazda 6 I Touring
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Discussion Starter #24
bulwnkl,
Thanks for that great info.

Did you drain all the fluid you could (about 4 quarts?) for all 3 drains?
 

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Yes, I simply pulled the drain plug and waited for it to stop. (I didn't let it drip for hours, you understand, but handled it like an engine oil change.) For my initial 3 drain-and-fill cycles, I measured the best I could how much came out, and put the same measured amount back in. The the third one I measured tranny pan temp to get it into the range specified by the ECU, then checked the level on the dipstick. It was where it was supposed to be.

My most recent drain-and-fill I used my Scan Gauge to get into the specified temperature range according to the ECU's data stream, then checked with the dipstick. I actually cross-checked the level that way just before that last drain, too, to see how close my volumetric measurement and IR gun on the tranny pan got me, and it was right on the money.

The point of this rambling story is that while I think it best, and I do recommend, to follow the service manual procedure for checking ATF level on the dipstick (it specifies ATF temp to be ~50C when checking level), it is possible to get the level right if you measure drained volume vs. replaced volume carefully. Make sure you let the drained ATF equalize to the same temperature as the new ATF you're going to put in, as that can change the volume a bit. Also be very careful to not contaminate the new fluid with any foreign material at all. A little old fluid is okay, but nothing else.
 
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