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The only thing I would add: Clean all surfaces around the penetrations, such as the pan/transaxle interface, and around the fill plug, BEFORE you start.

It is very important to NOT get any sort of dirt or other gunk into the transmission. With the underskirt on these cars they tend to be a LOT cleaner than most but still, it's worth making sure the area around where you will be working (especially near the fill plug!) are clean.
 

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2015 Mazda 6 I Touring
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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Finally going to get parts and do this next week. Will update.

Note: Daughter said car was hesitating on acceleration. Based on research from here, I cleaned Mass Airflow Sensor with MAF spray and fixed it.
 

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I did a sequence of 3 drain-and-fill cycles on my 2015 last year, which I had just picked up used, when it had something roughly like 80k miles on it (don’t recall offhand). Transmission shift quality improved immediately. The old fluid was very dark. I did another drain-and-fill recently. I meant to pull the pan and replace the strainer, but it was just too blasted hot and the pan too well glued on. (-:

In your place, I’d do the same thing again, but I’d do the strainer change along with the drain-and-fill cycles.

This forum thread is from a fellow who says he replaced the factory-fill ATF on his 2014 for the first time at about 208k miles:
 
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Yes, I simply pulled the drain plug and waited for it to stop. (I didn't let it drip for hours, you understand, but handled it like an engine oil change.) For my initial 3 drain-and-fill cycles, I measured the best I could how much came out, and put the same measured amount back in. The the third one I measured tranny pan temp to get it into the range specified by the ECU, then checked the level on the dipstick. It was where it was supposed to be.

My most recent drain-and-fill I used my Scan Gauge to get into the specified temperature range according to the ECU's data stream, then checked with the dipstick. I actually cross-checked the level that way just before that last drain, too, to see how close my volumetric measurement and IR gun on the tranny pan got me, and it was right on the money.

The point of this rambling story is that while I think it best, and I do recommend, to follow the service manual procedure for checking ATF level on the dipstick (it specifies ATF temp to be ~50C when checking level), it is possible to get the level right if you measure drained volume vs. replaced volume carefully. Make sure you let the drained ATF equalize to the same temperature as the new ATF you're going to put in, as that can change the volume a bit. Also be very careful to not contaminate the new fluid with any foreign material at all. A little old fluid is okay, but nothing else.
 

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2014 Grand Touring
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Does the transmission pan drain plug use a crush washer like the oil pan drain?
If so is it the same size as the oil pan’s? M14. Or does anyone know the proper size?
 

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recently dropped transmission pan on car with 90k miles, was amazed at how much more fluid came out when dropping the pan and pulling the filter (around 6 quarts).
So I would recommend starting with dropping the pan as that gets 3/4 of the fluid changed, then you can do a drain and refill after as well.
Also, we used the kit off Amazon that included a rubber gasket which worked beautifully (after cleaning all the old gunk off), just be sure not to over tighten or it will squeeze the gasket out of place and leak.

Amazed at how much faster/quieter it shifts!
 

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Yes the fluid in the ATX is a "lifetime" fluid, however in some cases as a mazda tech I have had to drain and fill these on occasion. There really aren't any issues with removing the pan and changing out the filter like you would on older vehicles which is super easy to do. The most important part about this is the filling part. you have to have the vehicles transmission up to the specific operating temperature the whole time, can;t be hotter or colder. I believe it's around 167 farenheit. You will need to turn the car on and off repeatedly while monitoring the temp and checking the fluid level to do it correctly but if you do it close enough there shouldn't be any after issues. Another thing you might want to inquire at your closest dealer is if there are any tcm (trans control module) updates available.
 

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Finally did my first drain and refill with filter replacement at 116,8xx mi.
got out 4qts and a couple ounces of old fluid. Fluid was dark brown but didn’t really smell burnt.

I used the Wix kit pn# WL10379 filter and gasket. Gasket seems to work well, been driving a couple days and checking and no leaks. Pan bolts were torqued to spec.

Main thing I noticed after this first drain /fill is the transmission is smoother reingaging after letting off the throttle then reapplying throttle while cruising.

plan to do another drain/fill in a couple of weeks. Then making this a routine maintenance every 60K. The only reason I waited so long was because I had a extended service contract that I was waiting on to expire.

Thanks to you all and the forum for the advice.
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 · (Edited)
Wow, its been 6 months since I created this thread?

I finally replaced the trans filter and fluid in my daughter's 2015 Mazda6 I Touring yesterday. Here are the random highlights:

1. At 146,000 miles, first time replacing fluid. First time replacing filter.

2. Have bucket under filter and remove it slowly as more fluid will drain after you remove it. After removing filter (2 10mm bolts hold filter) I had to stop, so it continued to drain for another 18 hours. Lube orings of new filter openings with new fluid before installing. I replaced 4.8 quarts of fluid.

3. I used original pan bolts and pan drain plug crush washer (its metal). Dealerships said they replacd them only if they look beat up. However, I used a wire wheel to remove hard dried orange color rtv gasket from pan bolt threads (16 bolts). I think if u do not remove old gasket from threads, they could damage threads.

4. After draining fluid and removing all 16 pan bolt, I hit the pan on the side several times with rubber mallet to break rtv gasket seal.

5. I used a plastic paint scraper and a little brass wire brush to removal ALL original rtv from pan gasket and trans surface. The brass wire brush worked great. I used Mazda grey rtv for gasket. After making thin bead on pan, I let it set for 20min before installing. I waited 5 hours before putting fluid in and starting car. I used half of a tube to make the gasket bead. I bought an inch pounds torque ratchet ($23). Torqued pan bolts to 87 INCH pounds. NOT foot.

6. I did not remove airbox to access trans dipstick. You can access the 10mm bolt that holds down dipstick, from the bottom (after removing plastic cover) or from the top if you use 3 socket extentions. I did both. If you put your arm on left side of radiator hose, you can reach dipstick. your hand will pass electric fan but did not hurt when my hand hit it.

5. I measured distance from dipstick tube to above radiator hose. I used a long trans fluid funnel and long fluid tube attachmento from another filter to put fluid in dipstick hole.

6. I got a paint mix bucket at lowes. It is clear enough to see fluid. It has measurment marks in quarts, gallons and liters. I drained fluid in it. 4.3 quarts drained in bucket in 18 hours, but alot of additionalo fluid ended up on floor. The old fluid was dark brown like burnt fluid. But it did not smell burnt. New fluid is light blue.

7. I put 4 quarts in it at first. I got conflicting info on checking fluid level. So I started car, turned off climate control and waited for blue temp icon to go off and for fans to start cycling, then I held brake and shifted into gears then back into park. Then I checked it with car running. I added 1/8th a quart until level was in middle of dipstick marks. I put 4.8 quarts in. Suprised I was able to put that much fluid in.

8. I used a flat head screwdriver, needle nose plyers and wire cutters to remove plastic push pins that held up back part of undercarraige plastic cover that must be removed to access trans pan. Wish I had bought the push pin removal tool.

9. After 150 miles, no leaks. Daughter said auto trans shifts smoother, like it did when it was new.
In 5,000 to 10,000 miles I plan to do just a fluid drain.

Thanks for everyones comments.
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 · (Edited)
FYI,

Dealership did confirm that you check auto trans fluid level with the car engine running and warm.

They said to start car, turn off climate control and wait until blue light off AND fans start cycling. Before and after adding to correct level, you can shift through gears to make sure at correct level (I did this).

They said, car must be running with climate controls off and fans cycling for it to be warm enough, then shifting through gears (while hold brake of course) then shift back into park, then check fluid level.

I asked them if it was unusual that I replaced 4.8 quarts when most replace 3.5 to 4.3 quarts. They said no, because I let it drain longer (18 hours) and I correctly checked it and ran through the gears.
 

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Hi All. This thread has been really informative as I am planning on changing the ATX fluid on my 15 Mazda 6. If anyone is still reading this thread, though, I have some questions. I am thinking about replacing the pan bolts because the workshop manual recommends it. However, I have not been able to find an OEM part number for an ATX pan bolt for a '15 (or '16 which I will also be doing) Mazda 6. The closest thing I have been able to find is this bolt: 9YA010615A. It seems that it will fit a '14 Mazda 6. Will this fit the '15 Sport and '16 Grand Touring that I plan to replace the ATX fluid and filter on?

My second question is with regard to Mazda RTV. I see the gray 0000771217ES that's available for around $8. However, according to several online catalogues, this RTV is for '09-13 Mazda 6s. The sealant that comes up for both '15 and '16 Mazda 6s is R2Y110431 and is $60+ which seems very expensive to me. Will the 1217ES be sufficient? It seems people also recommend Permatex brand, but there does not seem to be consistency as to whether Ultra Black, The Right Stuff, red ATX, or high temp RTV is the most appropriate. Has anyone use the 1217ES for this generation Mazda 6? If not, what RTV would be recommended? Thanks all for your thoughts!
 

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My first recommendation is to ask a dealer parts counter about the bolts, if you want to use Mazda bolts.

For the sealant, I wouldn’t pay much attention to a change of sealant between those model years. Use what you have. Many aftermarket A/T filter kits come with a gasket. Use that instead of the sealant, if you like.
 

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Hi All. This thread has been really informative as I am planning on changing the ATX fluid on my 15 Mazda 6. If anyone is still reading this thread, though, I have some questions. I am thinking about replacing the pan bolts because the workshop manual recommends it. However, I have not been able to find an OEM part number for an ATX pan bolt for a '15 (or '16 which I will also be doing) Mazda 6. The closest thing I have been able to find is this bolt: 9YA010615A. It seems that it will fit a '14 Mazda 6. Will this fit the '15 Sport and '16 Grand Touring that I plan to replace the ATX fluid and filter on?

My second question is with regard to Mazda RTV. I see the gray 0000771217ES that's available for around $8. However, according to several online catalogues, this RTV is for '09-13 Mazda 6s. The sealant that comes up for both '15 and '16 Mazda 6s is R2Y110431 and is $60+ which seems very expensive to me. Will the 1217ES be sufficient? It seems people also recommend Permatex brand, but there does not seem to be consistency as to whether Ultra Black, The Right Stuff, red ATX, or high temp RTV is the most appropriate. Has anyone use the 1217ES for this generation Mazda 6? If not, what RTV would be recommended? Thanks all for your thoughts!
Take them to a hardware store, find the correct thread pitch and size and but some socket head cap screws in at least a Grade 8, and then some Permatex Grey RTV and be done with it.
 

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They'll almost certainly be metric, so "Grade 8" (6 radial lines on the head) is not applicable. The comparable thing to Grade 8 for metric bolts is Class 10.9, which have the number "10.9" raised on the head of the bolt.

Since Mazda calls for replacement at some point (I hadn't seen that, so accepting you at your word, 15M6owner), those bolts are probably very soft. Accordingly, I'd look for no harder than Class 5.8, which is comparable to Grade 2, or even Class 4.6 which is softer still.

It's very easy to strip the threads in the aluminum block when using steel bolts, and the harder the steel, the easier it is to do. That's why I'd suggest using very soft steel bolts, or Mazda bolts, accepting you at your word that Mazda specifies replacement.

Here are a couple quick reference charts some search engine found on the topic:

 

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Hi All. Here is the snapshot from the workshop manual. The bold caution statement would lead me to believe that it is recommended, but not required to replace the pan bolts. I just cannot find a part number. Later on in the manual during the assembly portion it states to use "16 bolts (M6×1.0 bolt, length to approx. 15 mm {0.59 in}*)" with the asterisk being:" * : Length without spring washer is indicated due to bolt with spring washer. Length with spring washer is approx. 13 mm {0.51 in}."
243560
 
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