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Discussion Starter #1
Hello,

It took me a while to install all these items, so I thought to share some installation notes and photos. Original post with my questions is here:

https://www.mazda6club.com/threads/advice-needed-2015-non-bose-hooking-up-an-amp-and-an-active-subwoofer.440034/#post-5045818

With everything installed (new speakers, LOC, Amp, and Sub) the sound is much improved, clear, with an adequate bass, and at least 9 “clicks” louder than with the original setup. “20 is the new 30” :D

Hertz Deci DCX 165.3 speakers are super clear but if you’re planning to replace the speakers ONLY and nothing else make sure to get Polks DB 651 or Alpine S-S65 instead bc these have more range than Hertz Decis.

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I have decided to get the LC7i due to AccuBass and because it splits 2 original channels into 3. So, in my application 2 original channels got amplified and the 3rd one connects to the sub.

The Audiocontrol LOC fits tightly in the space behind the headunit. Originally, I was planning to use just the standard PAC AOEM – MAZ2 LOC but ended up using just the harness that came with it in order to avoid having to splice into the factory harness. The PAC harness is a life saver and makes the installation super easy.

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Sub is mounted right under passenger’s seat and it’s a perfect fit. Securing it with few Velcro strips seems to be more than enough in our cars. I have put the cables that connect to it into a tight plastic cover/conduit, secured it with zip ties and was able to stuff everything under the carpet and push it through a small hole that I made with utility knife close to where the sub sits. Really easy, but tedious. I am powering the sub from the fuse box by the driver – just the way tickerguy explained. I have used the “add a circuit” and double fused it with 10A fuses.
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The small amp is tucked in the space between the hvac blower motor cover and the carpet. It is compact enough where it is hidden enough and doesn’t bother anything. Front seat passengers are not able to see it and even my weathertech mat is not long enough to reach it. I am powering the amp from the battery. Cruchfield sells the “small amp wiring kit” (CK12) and the supplied 12 gauge red wire comes with the required 15A fuse and there is additional 15A fuse right by the amp. I have removed the battery and pushed the power wire through the rubber nipple without having to drill through the firewall. It was a tight squeeze. Anything thicker than 12ga would be a tough push IMO.
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Last but not least, in the Audiocontrol LOC I have disabled the GTO feature (jumper to “defeated”) and ran the Remote in from 1R red wire 12 V 7.5A Accessory/Switched on the harness (you will have to splice it). Remote Out goes to the Sub and the amp.
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Overall, I am very happy with the sound. The only thing left to invest is gjr9-66-dh0d – a proper Bluetooth module – shame on you Mazda!
 

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Some extra info that took me a while to find - in case you were wondering about all the cables in Mazda's harness. Applies to 2014-2015. Not sure about 16+...
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Awesome. I did the same thing with the PAC harness, splitting it for a lc2i.


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Great minds...
To be honest at first I just thought to use the PAC LOC to add a sub, but with new speakers I though it would really make sense to also add at least "some" power.
What did you add to your system? A sub or an amp?
 

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Great minds...
To be honest at first I just thought to use the PAC LOC to add a sub, but with new speakers I though it would really make sense to also add at least "some" power.
What did you add to your system? A sub or an amp?



Sub / 3 way components up front / amp to drive them
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Stereo upgrade project 2016 M6 GT



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Great work - quite a bit of custom fabrication and MORE POWER. Way outside my skill level...
 
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