Mazda 6 Forums banner

1 - 20 of 33 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Folks:

My son's 2014 Touring needs a tranny rebuild. The differential, that is housed within the transmission, is starting to really make noise. When you are going about 30 MPH or less and let off the gas, the sound gets much louder. I've spoken to a local shop that I trust (my brother's used car dealership uses them a great deal) and they helped me do a partial diagnosis via the phone. Said such sounds when off the gas are very often carrier assembly, which is the differential. I have NO codes; shifts great just noisy....so I think he's right. Also, 've replaced both hubs (fixed the high-speed whining) but the sound still remains. It just sounds like the warbling (if that's a word) of a differential bearing or carrier bearing inside the case.

ANYWAY, I was quoted a full rebuild, that includes new bearings and clutch replacement too, for $3,000. If I bring in the transmission removed from the car, they will charge $2,250. So I could save my son $750. I've already replaced both hubs so getting the axles out won't be an issue.

I'm seeking any info on steps to complete to do such a removal. I know there is at least one side, if not two, mounting brackets that hold it into the car, electrical connections, cables to the shift, likely some vent hose or hoses and then the mounts of the bell housing to the block. Again, seeking any instructions just so I can determine if I think I can do this on my own.

Thanks in advance!

TKH
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,426 Posts
I'm curious why or what is the cause for this early failure. I would like to know how much distance have it travelled. Sorry, my post doesn't help but I'm curious as a cat.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,118 Posts
You NEED an engine support since you have to unbolt the engine mount on the driver's side, obviously. You also really, really want a transmission jack.

The procedure is in the shop manual quoted above. It's very similar to a clutch job on an MTX in respect to the R&R of the transaxle itself. $750 is not an exorbitant price for the labor involved both directions -- if you've got the tools and space then saving the $750 is well worth it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
276 Posts
This is a manual transmission, correct?
Do you trust them to set up the gears correctly? If they do them a lot, they’ll probably do fine. Another option is to just buy a transmission. The dealer I like here sells complete manual trannies for a bit less than the rebuild price you quote, but as I recall that doesn’t include the clutch so it’s roughly a push, price-wise.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
I'm curious why or what is the cause for this early failure. I would like to know how much distance have it travelled. Sorry, my post doesn't help but I'm curious as a cat.
80K in mileage. The fact its failing at 80K is a major disappointment for me. This is the first Mazda in our family. We've traditionally been Honda and Toyota folks, so we departed from the "ranch" on this buy. I hate to say it on a Mazda board, as I'm sure I'll get haters, but I'm starting to regret the decision. Two new hubs and now a new transmission at 80K isn't right.

Side note: I removed and replaced both hubs myself. Used OEM hubs as I never buy after market when it comes to hubs. The driver side had wear groves in the race of the bearing. So it was on its way out. Passenger side bearing was tight but it too had wear marks on the race and some pitting, thus the high-speed noise when driving over 40mph.

Yes, we bought this car used. It had 70K on it when purchased. Per all the records I could find, we are the 2nd owner. The 1st bought it in Hawaii. Drove it there for till 2018 then moved to the mainland where we bought it in Utah. I was a bit surprised at the level of rust on the under components for a 2014, so I have to wonder if the higher humidity of Hawaii was bad. Road salt usually causes premature rust on the undercarriage but Utah winters don't normally do that much damage. Think of a car from the North East. They can be rust buckets due to the winters. Utah normally doesn't do that to cars.

When I had to remove the passenger side hub assembly, I had to take the entire knuckle off and take it to a shop to have the hub pressed out. It was that rusted to the knuckle. That's not Mazda's fault....but I can't explain such rusting in a 6 year old car. Regardless of Hawaii or where its been driven, for the differential to start making humming noise at 80k is wrong.

Also, when we bought it at 70K I did a transmission oil and filter drop and refill. I used the proper oil at that time (OEM) and filter too. That was 10K ago and it only just started making this noise. I can't believe my oil change started this issue. Yes, these transmissions are "sealed". That's just bull as there is a drain and fill plug and we all know it is only good to keep transmission oil fresh. I wanted to start off with new oil given I didn't know how the past owner had driven it.

Perplexing but nothing we can do about it. What is sad is my son, who is attending college, bought this with his own money. Sp he's a student working hard part time to afford his own car and now may have to fork over 20% more than it's original price to replace the transmission. Worse is the car books for about 9K and transmission is 3K. That's a hard reality for him to deal with.

ugh..........
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
You NEED an engine support since you have to unbolt the engine mount on the driver's side, obviously. You also really, really want a transmission jack.

The procedure is in the shop manual quoted above. It's very similar to a clutch job on an MTX in respect to the R&R of the transaxle itself. $750 is not an exorbitant price for the labor involved both directions -- if you've got the tools and space then saving the $750 is well worth it.
You are spot on. This is worth $750...in fact, that's a good deal. Engine support alone isn't something to mess with. Also needs a transmission jack. Neither of which I have. Nope. Not going to try to save $750. This would take all of a saturday and then some and probably do more harm than good.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,426 Posts
80K in mileage. The fact its failing at 80K is a major disappointment for me. This is the first Mazda in our family. We've traditionally been Honda and Toyota folks, so we departed from the "ranch" on this buy. I hate to say it on a Mazda board, as I'm sure I'll get haters, but I'm starting to regret the decision. Two new hubs and now a new transmission at 80K isn't right.

Side note: I removed and replaced both hubs myself. Used OEM hubs as I never buy after market when it comes to hubs. The driver side had wear groves in the race of the bearing. So it was on its way out. Passenger side bearing was tight but it too had wear marks on the race and some pitting, thus the high-speed noise when driving over 40mph.

Yes, we bought this car used. It had 70K on it when purchased. Per all the records I could find, we are the 2nd owner. The 1st bought it in Hawaii. Drove it there for till 2018 then moved to the mainland where we bought it in Utah. I was a bit surprised at the level of rust on the under components for a 2014, so I have to wonder if the higher humidity of Hawaii was bad. Road salt usually causes premature rust on the undercarriage but Utah winters don't normally do that much damage. Think of a car from the North East. They can be rust buckets due to the winters. Utah normally doesn't do that to cars.

When I had to remove the passenger side hub assembly, I had to take the entire knuckle off and take it to a shop to have the hub pressed out. It was that rusted to the knuckle. That's not Mazda's fault....but I can't explain such rusting in a 6 year old car. Regardless of Hawaii or where its been driven, for the differential to start making humming noise at 80k is wrong.

Also, when we bought it at 70K I did a transmission oil and filter drop and refill. I used the proper oil at that time (OEM) and filter too. That was 10K ago and it only just started making this noise. I can't believe my oil change started this issue. Yes, these transmissions are "sealed". That's just bull as there is a drain and fill plug and we all know it is only good to keep transmission oil fresh. I wanted to start off with new oil given I didn't know how the past owner had driven it.

Perplexing but nothing we can do about it. What is sad is my son, who is attending college, bought this with his own money. Sp he's a student working hard part time to afford his own car and now may have to fork over 20% more than it's original price to replace the transmission. Worse is the car books for about 9K and transmission is 3K. That's a hard reality for him to deal with.

ugh..........

Sorry to hear about that...

We have one member here who had one problem after another. I think he brought it brand new. Can you imagine that he had to replace the engine? I don't curse but if it were to happen to me, I might. With all the troubles he encountered, he got an offer and replaced it with a Mazda CX-5.

I hope time will come that you'll appreciate what Mazda is offering to a small market like us, a driver oriented car who is appreciated by a person who likes and enjoys driving and not just going from point A to B.

In my stay in this forum, I can say that most members, if not all, are always helpful. The two active moderators are level headed. In other words, you need not to worry about "hate".
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,171 Posts
This is a manual transmission, correct?
Do you trust them to set up the gears correctly? If they do them a lot, they’ll probably do fine. Another option is to just buy a transmission. The dealer I like here sells complete manual trannies for a bit less than the rebuild price you quote, but as I recall that doesn’t include the clutch so it’s roughly a push, price-wise.
Bulwnkl, it's an automatic. But your question is certainly understandable because up to when you posted and beyond - the OP's indicated symptoms would have been equally applicable to either type of transmission. I guess I just assumed it was an automatic.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
This is a manual transmission, correct?
Do you trust them to set up the gears correctly? If they do them a lot, they’ll probably do fine. Another option is to just buy a transmission. The dealer I like here sells complete manual trannies for a bit less than the rebuild price you quote, but as I recall that doesn’t include the clutch so it’s roughly a push, price-wise.
Sorry, I shouldn't have assumed everyone knew my thoughts and experiences. It is indeed an automatic.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,171 Posts
To the OP: We, too, are a largely Toyota and one Honda family... and though we are in Vancouver BC - really mild climate - our Toyotas and Honda are clean as a whistle underneath. Cars typically have few rust issues here (and the many Mazda's here seem to be fine too in that regard) but based on what I know about Mazda steels and corrosion protectedness - if I lived in a harsher environment I'm sorry to say that I would not own a Mazda. This is just my personal sense... Others may differ. Little things like this (only evident as time goes on) make the premium in price for a Toyota perhaps more compelling for some. Notwithstanding your obvious prbs with your son's car I am less worried about the mechanical reliability and longlife prospects regarding my Mazda. I do however have a manual transmission...

Mazda's do drive well though ☺.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
Sorry to hear about that...

We have one member here who had one problem after another. I think he brought it brand new. Can you imagine that he had to replace the engine? I don't curse but if it were to happen to me, I might. With all the troubles he encountered, he got an offer and replaced it with a Mazda CX-5.

I hope time will come that you'll appreciate what Mazda is offering to a small market like us, a driver oriented car who is appreciated by a person who likes and enjoys driving and not just going from point A to B.

In my stay in this forum, I can say that most members, if not all, are always helpful. The two active moderators are level headed. In other words, you need not to worry about "hate".
Thanks, Archerfish. I was and am only being honest and not a hater.

Up until now, my son loved this car. He bought it because of its styling and feel on the road. Unfortunately, I often buy cars mostly on their build and longevity. So I have little tolerance when cars breakdown. My wife drives a 2008 Yukon Denali. We bought it at 50K miles and now it has just shy of 200K. I've done a TON of work on this SUV/Truck to keep it rolling. At one point I thought I'm a GMC hater but in reality, the engine and transmission and both front and rear differentials AND transfer case are all still going strong. All my repairs are probably what 200K does to a car so I have to keep repairs in perspective. When I get upset is when something fails early I need to take a breather. Early to me isn't before warranty expiration....it's just early. See, even in that reply I'm flawed. How long should and AT last in a modern car? If not mistreated, is it too much to expect 100K in miles for an AT? I would suppose......but now we are entering into the world of opinions.....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,171 Posts
Automatic transmission durability is something that concerns me. For me (personal opinion only) they merit added effort to cool them (keep them around 175 °F to 185°F at all times, as much as possible) and also merit effort to run a very tight filter media (2 micron?) bypass filter arrangement. Also, a relatively easy foot-on-the-throttle helps matters too.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,118 Posts
ATXs ALWAYS bother me. With that said this isn't the ATX, it's the differential (and there's one in the MTX too, you know) -- and that is not a common failure at all in any gearbox UNLESS it was (seriously) abused.

I'm surprised at the level of corrosion; I lived until recently in NW FL right on the water, which of course is both hot and salty just like in Hawaii. NONE of my vehicles have EVER had material corrosion issues of any sort anywhere on the body or frame -- even at 20+ years of age.

Now if you park 'em outside the paint, well...... yeah. But that's not from the salt, it's the sun.

I suspect there's more to the story with this vehicle than you know, which isn't all that uncommon.....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
ATXs ALWAYS bother me. With that said this isn't the ATX, it's the differential (and there's one in the MTX too, you know) -- and that is not a common failure at all in any gearbox UNLESS it was (seriously) abused.

I'm surprised at the level of corrosion; I lived until recently in NW FL right on the water, which of course is both hot and salty just like in Hawaii. NONE of my vehicles have EVER had material corrosion issues of any sort anywhere on the body or frame -- even at 20+ years of age.

Now if you park 'em outside the paint, well...... yeah. But that's not from the salt, it's the sun.

I suspect there's more to the story with this vehicle than you know, which isn't all that uncommon.....
I know where you are headed and I hate to think it. All the floods that happen....just takes a little time too exposed to water to do damage.
 

·
Rally Racer
Joined
·
2,815 Posts
If I had to guess, given the hub issue, the car may have sustained an impact on that side wheel. That suspected shock pushed the axle into the transmission, (say understeering into a curb.) This likely set the bearing inward a slight bit and caused the differential side gears to wear incorrectly and/or bearing spalling.

Just a guess.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,171 Posts
If the car were involved in a flood both frt wheel brgs (and rear for that matter) + the final drive in the transmission could have been damaged. That + undercarriage corrosion (as has been pointed out earlier).
 

·
Rally Racer
Joined
·
2,815 Posts
If the car were involved in a flood both frt wheel brgs (and rear for that matter) + the final drive in the transmission could have been damaged. That + undercarriage corrosion (as has been pointed out earlier).
I suppose you could pull back the trunk lining and look for a water line. It seems like every Mazda I see that comes in contact with salted roads has undercarriage corrosion.
I must have missed that all the bearings were bad (and not just the one suspected from an earlier post)
Oh well, I miss stuff all the time. 🤪
Carry on.
 
1 - 20 of 33 Posts
Top