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Discussion Starter #1
Hello all.
I have been wanting to upgrade the bose system in my 6 for quite sometime now. I inquired about this last year and thought I had all the answers I needed to proceed with my install but clearly I was a bit overwhelmed on finding the correct wires to grab signal for my LC6i. I have all the diagrams for the bose system and the more I stared at them the more confused I got. In a nutshell, i am replacing all 4 door speakers with midrange/highs and adding a sub in the trunk all powered by a 5 channel amp.

Its to my understanding that when wiring the lc6i up(post bose amp), its best to get signal for the main input from the dash speakers since they are full range, channel 2 from the rear door speaker lines and channel 3(for my sub) either summed to the main, or get the low range signal from the front door woofers speaker line. Any confirmation or corrections for this procedure would be great.

Also, can anyone confirm which harness
On the bose amp is the post harness(output to speakers) going to the dash speakers, front and rear door speakers? And the color codes for each of them? That would greatly help simplify my install and avoid making errors as i have been triple questioning myself about this for quite sometime now.

Any help or suggestions is greatly appreciated.
 

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Not knowing the LC6i (i hate AC stuff) and not knowing what guide you read, i would try to grab the signal pre Bose amp like you could on the 06-08's if possible. Feel free to send me the diagrams if you want some help. Ill be gutting my 3 GT later this year for some vintage Kicker stuff and im guessing its all the same stuff in both cars.
 

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Hey thanks for the reply. Audio control advises to grab signal post bose amp. Here are the diagrams, i couldnt find a colored copy for the front doors and its the top page in black and white snapshot.....hopefully its clear enough when u zoom in.
 

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there is no point in replacing the speakers s everything works in conjunction, if you replace the speaker you have to replace the amp and pretty much everything which at that point, what's the point
 

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there is no point in replacing the speakers s everything works in conjunction, if you replace the speaker you have to replace the amp and pretty much everything which at that point, what's the point
If I PM you my shipping addy will you send me some of that stuff you're smoking?
 

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there is no point in replacing the speakers s everything works in conjunction, if you replace the speaker you have to replace the amp and pretty much everything which at that point, what's the point
There are multiple people who have integrated with the bose amp which is my goal. The bose amp will remain working and powering the dash speakers and my addon amp will power new door speakers and sub in the trunk.
 

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There are multiple people who have integrated with the bose amp which is my goal. The bose amp will remain working and powering the dash speakers and my addon amp will power new door speakers and sub in the trunk.
As someone who has installed car audio in some sort of fashion or another for close to 30 years. FUCK THAT. Replace it all.
 

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Hey thanks for the reply. Audio control advises to grab signal post bose amp. Here are the diagrams, i couldnt find a colored copy for the front doors and its the top page in black and white snapshot.....hopefully its clear enough when u zoom in.
Actually its a bit hard, look in the app store for Office Lens, its a free app from M$ that creates PDF's using the camera, its insanely useful.

Based on the diagram in the second pic, its hard to say, but i wonder if theres a data link between the amp and HU instead of actual wires, think like HDMI or TOSLink instead of RCA cables in a home stereo setup. If thats the case, theres no way to split the line level from the HU apart from the amp, which IMHO would degrade the signal horribly because the amp is never a high end piece with low distortion.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
There are multiple people who have integrated with the bose amp which is my goal. The bose amp will remain working and powering the dash speakers and my addon amp will power new door speakers and sub in the trunk.
As someone who has installed car audio in some sort of fashion or another for close to 30 years. FUCK THAT. Replace it all.

Yeah i totally hear ya, but i dont want to replace the head unit as we all know how it is integrated with other car functions that i dont want to lose, nor do i want to spend the cash buying extra hardware to get it all back with a different unit. Im focused with what i have which hopfully will have better sound than stock.
 

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Yeah i totally hear ya, but i dont want to replace the head unit as we all know how it is integrated with other car functions that i dont want to lose, nor do i want to spend the cash buying extra hardware to get it all back with a different unit. Im focused with what i have which hopfully will have better sound than stock.
Sorry, didnt mean the HU, just everything attached to it audio wise lol :)
 

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Sorry, didnt mean the HU, just everything attached to it audio wise lol <img src="http://forum.mazda6club.com/images/smilies/5.gif" border="0" alt="" title=":)" class="inlineimg" />
Well i replaced the 3.5" dash speakers and the 3/4 dash tweeters already which sounds better than the bose speakers, but still powered by the bose amp. Now its a matter of getting rid of the aweful 8" subs in the front doors and those horribly underpowered 5-1/4s in the rear doors. The lc6i was my cheapest option being on a budget to get full range signal in the front doors. So thats what led to the beginning of this thread about anyone who can clarify which harness post bose amp is designated to the door speakers and the color codes for each.
 

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If they are the same as the 3GT, they are 9" in the front doors. They get a very odd signal, in front or middle on the fader, they get mid and low bass. Fade it all the way back and they only get sub freqs. Very odd, which is why i want to just rip all the speakers and amp out if possible, no telling whats going on lol.

You may just have to pull the door speakers and match them to the amp output side and go from there. Likewise i would go from the HU and see if you can find matching wires going IN to the amp, those may be low level signals and should be full range.
 

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Mazda/bose calls it a 9"Nd woofer but they are 8". I saw it in another user video and ive also ripped the door panels off before and confirmed. As for the video, that pac unit does the same thing as the AC lc6i which sums a full range signal and gives a decent preamp out.
 

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Mazda/bose calls it a 9"Nd woofer but they are 8". I saw it in another user video and ive also ripped the door panels off before and confirmed. As for the video, that pac unit does the same thing as the AC lc6i which sums a full range signal and gives a decent preamp out.
Well, the hole is 9", cause my Kicker SSMB8 would fall right through the hole it left. You could prob squeak a shallow 10" in there, but it would still be decoupled from the car like the stock.
 

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Thats weird. Ive seen a thread on google where they cut the bose woofer out of the housing and slipped another 8" aftermarket shallow sub in its place. Cant remember if they fastened the new woofer directly to the housing or added a speaker ring to the housing and fastened to that. Heres a pic of the 8"bose with measurong tape to show outside diameter
Screenshot_20190303-185010_Gallery_1551657021613.jpg
 

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I just checked with a local car stereo shop about installing the Kenwood under-seat sub. He didn't want to do it--said it would be a waste of $. What about splitting the signal off the two door speakers for the Kenwood sub since they are already getting all the bass? Does anyone know what wires those would be? I have a 2018 Mazda 6 GT. It looks like the Bose amp might be mounted under the passenger seat.
 
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