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I rectify the information that I need diagrams and pinout, it must be from the year 2017.

Your help please I am detained on the project
 

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I tapped in to the rear positive L and R to get low level signal for a sub,
The idea is to leave all the BOSE stuff and just add a sub in the rear.
It seams that the stock audio system is delayed i tiny bit over the output from my newly installed amplifier.
All the BOSE special effects are off, Centerpoint and Audiopilot.
Is there a simple soloution to this or do i need to add something like a "lip sync corrector" to get it right?
 

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I ended up ordering a "lip sync corrector" with selectable 50, 100, 150 ms low level delay.
I'll post back here to let people know how it went after testing.
I'll also post a link to the item if the forum allows it.
 

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Hi,

Just want to thank you for all the information.
I have a Mazda 6 2016 and just want to add an under-eat sub-woofer without having to pay a fortune for the labour.

Thank you :)
 

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I ended up ordering a "lip sync corrector" with selectable 50, 100, 150 ms low level delay.
I'll post back here to let people know how it went after testing.
I'll also post a link to the item if the forum allows it.
Hi,

How did this go? As I am planning to do the exact same thing.

Thanks
 

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I tapped in to the rear positive L and R to get low level signal for a sub,
The idea is to leave all the BOSE stuff and just add a sub in the rear.
It seams that the stock audio system is delayed i tiny bit over the output from my newly installed amplifier.
All the BOSE special effects are off, Centerpoint and Audiopilot.
Is there a simple soloution to this or do i need to add something like a "lip sync corrector" to get it right?
Can you not Split the Rear L & R cables instead of going out from the sub to the speakers?
 

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So here's how it went.
I can only speak for my paticular car and it's a 2015 Mazda 6 Wagon with the BOSE system.

I used the Pink (1K) and Grey (1I) for non-inverted signal and Black (2J) as negative/common for both Left and Right. I also used Red/Black (2D) as the 12V Remote.
This worked really well in my case for that particular amplifier, no weird noise or hissing. Clean, good enough signal for a sub.

I found out that the BOSE amplifier adds about 50ms of delay unfortunately, so the sub and the rest of the audio was out of sync.
I could not find a simple way to get rid of that so i ended up buying a CYP AU-D18 or a "lip sync corrector" if you will.
Using the setting of 50ms is the closest i could get. If you put an oscilloscope on there and compare the signals it will probably still be off by a couple of millisecs but i can't hear it anyway.
The sync corrector have a 5V input which i solved by hacking/DIY a cheap 12V USB charger. This might introduce noise on the signal, so i just got lucky with mine i guess.

There's probably gonna be a discussion of how smart this was as i could get rid of all the BOSE-crap and so on, but it works for me.
It's good enough for a family car/daily driver and with a moderate sub it's good even.

Cheers!
 

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Uh, why did you use a common ground and from the front channel (positive) no less? Theres no Bose-ness on the input of the amp, only on the output. You probably have a phase imbalance using fronts and rears at the same time.
 

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I used common ground as the amplifier and the sync corrector don't like a differential signal.
It's even recommended in post #56 of this thread, Option 3.
Don't know where i wrote that i use the common ground for the front channel positive? I use the ground, same ground as in chassis or battery -.
And i never said there was any BOSE-ness on the input, why would it?
 

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I used the Pink (1K) and Grey (1I) for non-inverted signal and Black (2J) as negative/common for both Left and Right. I also used Red/Black (2D) as the 12V Remote.
This worked really well in my case for that particular amplifier, no weird noise or hissing. Clean, good enough signal for a sub.

I found out that the BOSE amplifier adds about 50ms of delay unfortunately, so the sub and the rest of the audio was out of sync.
Holy cow dude, now that i understood what you meant, NEVER use a vehicle ground for a speaker connection. When you said B(lack) this is what i thought you used

Front Left Channel - Black and White
Front Right Channel - Red and Green
Rear Left Channel - Pink and Light Green
Rear Right Channel - Grey and Blue

Ignore the "differential signal" stuff and just use the two front channels to connect your sub amp. Youll get a full range 20-20 signal that should sync with the front speakers.

I used common ground as the amplifier and the sync corrector don't like a differential signal.
It's even recommended in post #56 of this thread, Option 3.
Don't know where i wrote that i use the common ground for the front channel positive? I use the ground, same ground as in chassis or battery -.
And i never said there was any BOSE-ness on the input, why would it?
He never said to use the ground for a speaker connection, he meant for the circuit you would build.
 

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Please read the whole post #56 and especially the one labeled Option 3.
"Option 3: Use the non-inverted output from the headunit as your positive wire and the ground connection you are using for your amp (whether it is the car chassis, battery negative, ground pins in the headunit-to-BOSE Amp cabling, etc.) as the negative signal/wire. For your given situation this is the best all around option and what I meant in that quote you posted. This will give you the constant neutral reference a single ended input expects (ground) and the non-inverted signal from the headunit will take the place of the standard AC positive signal/wire you'd have with a single ended output since they are functionally identical. This setup will be like if the headunit did use single ended connections, instead of differential."

I'll probalby delete my posts so no one else makes my "mistakes".
FWIW it works flawless now and I'm happy about it.

Cheers,
 

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I won't and I haven't. This is low level signal. Even the sync correctors RCA negative are the same electrical point as it's negative DC input so it results in the same outcome. But an amplified speaker output, no way I was going to connect that to ground.
 

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Hi,

I drove EU 2015 Mazda 6 with Bose up to this month. Two months after purchase, I took all that Bose stuff out and replaced it with JL Audio amps and Focal speakers.
I replaced 2015 with 2020 Mazda 6 again with Bose. Delivery is next week. Is there anybody that knows if Bose setup on 2020 is the same as 2015-18?
I need to replaced Bose once again...

Best regards and special thanks to oblivioncth for his detailed post, great share man!

Petar
 

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First off this post is awesome and has really helped me in my upgrade quest! I have a 17 mazda 6 with Bose and am looking to upgrade the corner speakers and after reading the post many times and from what I can understand LOL! I am curious the frequency range of the corner twiddlers? Are they just mid or are they mid high. I want to put a pair of skar 3.5inch speakers in the dash to replace them. I guess my question is do I need to do anything special or just through in the speakers and be done? The factory amp is still installed. Any help would be great thanks in advance yall!
 

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First off this post is awesome and has really helped me in my upgrade quest! I have a 17 mazda 6 with Bose and am looking to upgrade the corner speakers and after reading the post many times and from what I can understand LOL! I am curious the frequency range of the corner twiddlers? Are they just mid or are they mid high. I want to put a pair of skar 3.5inch speakers in the dash to replace them. I guess my question is do I need to do anything special or just through in the speakers and be done? The factory amp is still installed. Any help would be great thanks in advance yall!
Twiddler is not a word, but there is a 2.5" mid and a 1" tweet in the 6.
 
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