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Wow must have been asleep.

I would just like to clarify the steps necessary to add a subwoofer amp. If I add an Audio Control LC2i LOC the front speakers would be a good spot to take the signal. Meaning the black ane white wire for front left.
You didnt read the article... you dont need a LOC... just grab the signal BEFORE the Bose amp and its already line level. Go straight to your amp from the rear speakers, do not pass go. This way you can have a "factory" sub fader without using a knob.
 

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Thank you for clarifying. I did read and watch the video several times but was confused on the signal. My amp can accept a signal of 0.6v- 6 volts and was not sure if the signal going to the bose amp exceeded 6 volts.
 

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Thank you for clarifying. I did read and watch the video several times but was confused on the signal. My amp can accept a signal of 0.6v- 6 volts and was not sure if the signal going to the bose amp exceeded 6 volts.
I highly doubt it, but you can get a DMM for cheap and measure it.
 

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Maybe i should start my own thread with my thoughts on all the loaners/rentals ive had since i got my 3 last August lol... The time on my rental clause was up this week and my 3 was still 3rd in line to get to a tech after almost a month, so i twisted the dealers arm and they gave me a free '18 6 GT turbo today and ill just say... HOLY CRAP that things got some power. But, this is an audio/Bose thread, so... my impressions.

Again, using the AUX jack, EQ on my phone the same as i use in my 3 and Centerpoint turned off (for reasons ive said in another thread), and, this one is better, but still lacks something vs my 3. I think i figured it out though. On the 6, the door speakers are further forward than in the 3, which are closer to the leg which will have an impact on how you perceive/feel the bass. This 6 has sail tweeters instead of in the dash and arent as harsh as the '17 6 GT were. The '18 is loud and clear up to 30 (i didnt go above that since im running a bit of a headache today) and very punchy.
 

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Discussion Starter #45 (Edited)
Sorry for the extremely late response, I got distracted for a while and didn't think of checking back on this thread until now.

No I am not at all familiar with MATCH products other than seeing the name here and there while looking at products from other companies. I am assuming you are referring to a harness/adapter that would let you connect to the stock output cable from the TAU unit and connect the other end directly to the input of your MATCH amp so that it was more or less "plug-and-play" and no cable splicing was required? If so, yes it doesn't seem like anyone makes one for the 3rd gen Mazda 6's with the BOSE system. Whether it would need to be a "Y" harness for people wanting to keep the BOSE amp installed (if they are just adding a subwoofer or only replacing some speakers) or a straight adapter that omits the BOSE amp entirely, making one would be incredibly easy since it would literally just need to be a cable as no signal conversion is necessary. It would simply need to be a female plug for 0920-515A that completely ditches pins 1G and 1H and then breaks out the other wires to 4 correctly labeled female RCA plugs that carry the non-inverted and inverted signals for each channel coming from the headunit, or a proprietary male connector for whatever specific amp you want to connect it to.

The PAC AOEM-MAZ2 is basically this adapter ("Y" version that is intended to keep the BOSE Amp connected) except that the inputs are first passed throw a hi-lo converter before being hooked into RCA jacks since it was designed for use with 3rd gen Mazdas without the BOSE system That is the only purpose the box serves with that product, but otherwise I've heard that the wiring of the actual cable is the same as BOSE system wiring in terms of which pins connect to what signals (just accounting for the fact that obviously the headunit outputs are line-level in cars with the BOSE system). So, with fairly basic soldering it wouldn't be hard to snip the ends of the connectors that go to the hi-lo converter box and bypass it entirely so that you essentially are left with a cable that plugs into the TAU unit and routes the 4-channel headunit output to the 4 RCA jacks that the product comes with.

Ideally it would be best if a purpose made harness could be fabricated for Mazdas with the BOSE system so that no splicing is required and the cable is as plug-and-play is it was on your previous vehicle. With a 3D printer, some cable and soldering one could be made pretty quickly, and perhaps there are services that offer making custom cables, but I personally haven't heard of any and don't have access to a 3D printer (nor have I ever used one).

Otherwise there isn't really anything to "consult" on, it is just a matter of making sure the cable routes the 8 signal pins to the correct input pins on your amp (or to RCA jacks/another standard plug). If you are talking about something else then I apologize and please clarify what you meant, lol.

Hey Oblivioncth!


If you don't mind me asking, what kind of setup are you using?

I have JL C7's wired to Alpine amps, all routed to an Audio Control DM-810 and I'm battling some crazy hissing/pink noise...shops have sworn up and down everything is solid with grounding, so I'm curious if you're hearing anything similar on your end.

Situations like this make me wish someone would have made an aftermarket head-unit upgrade worth a damn. 😑
I obviously can only vouch for my particular car, but that being said I think unfortunately the issue is with your equipment. I'm not sure how the grounding in my setup was exactly done as I had a shop do it (I needed them for making the custom adapters to fit the new speakers into the non-standard slots the 6 has as I'm fine with the electronics obviously but have little tools to deal with material work, and at that point I just let them do the whole thing after giving them my electronics documentation to save me time), but I have no hissing with my system whatsoever unless nothing is playing and I turn up the volume quite high, which obviously is normal. I believe they just snipped off the male plug of 0920-515A that originally went into the BOSE amp, soldered RCA ends onto the 8 signal wires and then connected it directly to my JL VX1000/5i that I had already bought ahead of time. Everything else is also a fairly standard passive setup, 3-way HAT Unity's (using the same companies passive crossovers) for the front left and right, coaxial HAT Imagine's in the rear doors, the stock rear deck BOSE speakers wired in parallel with the rear door speakers just to give a little bit of rear fill, and a 12W JL W3V3 sub in the rear.

Maybe i should start my own thread with my thoughts on all the loaners/rentals ive had since i got my 3 last August lol... The time on my rental clause was up this week and my 3 was still 3rd in line to get to a tech after almost a month, so i twisted the dealers arm and they gave me a free '18 6 GT turbo today and ill just say... HOLY CRAP that things got some power. But, this is an audio/Bose thread, so... my impressions.

Again, using the AUX jack, EQ on my phone the same as i use in my 3 and Centerpoint turned off (for reasons ive said in another thread), and, this one is better, but still lacks something vs my 3. I think i figured it out though. On the 6, the door speakers are further forward than in the 3, which are closer to the leg which will have an impact on how you perceive/feel the bass. This 6 has sail tweeters instead of in the dash and arent as harsh as the '17 6 GT were. The '18 is loud and clear up to 30 (i didnt go above that since im running a bit of a headache today) and very punchy.
Definitely feel free, people on these kind of boards enjoy having "reviews" of changes over the years for each model, especially when it comes to the entertainment system (or at least I do lol). Very handy for people looking to get a used model that aren't sure exactly which year they want to shoot for.

Speaking of the positions, even though I have more expensive speakers as my fronts, I've found myself being much more OCD about the tuning of the rear door speakers in my amp's DSP settings because they are much closer to my ear then anything else. The front speakers do sit quite far forward and I'm 6' 4" so I have my seat all the way down and all the way back, so the rear door speakers are literally right under my ears (lined up on them exactly horizontally is what I mean). Definitely not ideal but what are you going to do? Its a car not a room in a house, not nearly as much flexibility and I certainly didn't have the capital to go as crazy as doing heavy interior modifications to move the speakers around.

Thanks for helping out others on this thread when I haven't looked at it in a while btw.

Thank you for clarifying. I did read and watch the video several times but was confused on the signal. My amp can accept a signal of 0.6v- 6 volts and was not sure if the signal going to the bose amp exceeded 6 volts.
Like I said in the PM to you (but reposting here for everyone) the outputs from the TAU/headunit are definitely line-level and shouldn't exceed 6V. To be fair I didn't test the output voltage of the system with the volume maxed on the headunit, but as you can see from my scope readings in the section where I show an example of playing a song over the system the output doesn't exceed 2V (2V/div and each signal fills about 1 division). I believe the volume was set around 40-45 during that test. I believe the headunit maxes at like 100 or so? I'm not entirely sure since I've never bothered checking (will have to look next time I'm in my car). If we assume linear scaling and that the volume during that test was possibly closer to 40 (to be on the safe side), then the max output voltage of each signal should cap around X/100 = 2/40 -> X = 200/30 -> X = 5V, which makes sense to me.
 

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Discussion Starter #46
Correction:

Was in my car earlier and noticed that the volume actual caps at a somewhat random 63. This means that if the volume in that test was truly 40 that the output caps at 3.15V; honestly, I'd more likely believe that the volume when that shot was taken was a tad lower so that the actual max output is 3.3V.
 

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Anyone ever run a battery isolator in their 6? Trying to locate the appropriate power terminator for the alternator. I think my stock battery and alternator can't keep up with power demand of my setup, so I need a second battery in my trunk.
 

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Anyone ever run a battery isolator in their 6? Trying to locate the appropriate power terminator for the alternator. I think my stock battery and alternator can't keep up with power demand of my setup, so I need a second battery in my trunk.
Its the same as any other car.
 

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@oblivioncth
I am interested in adding a subwoofer in my car and here is my plan. Can you let me know if there is any problem with it? Thanks!

1. Tap into line level inputs to bose amp
2. Solder a 2 channel twisted RCA wire (since input is differential input)
3. Connect it to a 2 channel amp that can take differential input (Have not decided which amp)
4. Add separate fuse, power cable for the amp
5. Connect a ported subwoofer to the new amp
6. Leave bose amp and speakers as is

Goal:
Bose amp and speakers works same as today. Plus an added sub in the trunk powered by the new amp works.
 

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Why a ported sub? I would take the signal from both rear inputs, ignore the "differential" bit, itll confuse you and/or whomever sells you the amp.
I had a sealed box in my old car and have a ported subwoofer at home. I prefer the way my ported sub at home sounds. Not into shaking windows but I like the deep 30 Hertz tones at low volume.

For differential inputs, are you sure I can just ignore those? I was thinking of getting a good amp that will support differential inputs because the cheap ones dont.
 

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Discussion Starter #54
I had a sealed box in my old car and have a ported subwoofer at home. I prefer the way my ported sub at home sounds. Not into shaking windows but I like the deep 30 Hertz tones at low volume.

For differential inputs, are you sure I can just ignore those? I was thinking of getting a good amp that will support differential inputs because the cheap ones dont.
I agree with Talon, get a mono (or bi if you really care to mix L/R that much) channel amp to connect the sub to and go for one with differential inputs if it so happens to have that feature, but don't bother spending extra money for that if you are just adding a sub. Just use the non-inverted input only if not. Would be nearly impossible to notice the difference with anything ~100 Hz and below.
 

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I agree with Talon, get a mono (or bi if you really care to mix L/R that much) channel amp to connect the sub to and go for one with differential inputs if it so happens to have that feature, but don't bother spending extra money for that if you are just adding a sub. Just use the non-inverted input only if not. Would be nearly impossible to notice the difference with anything ~100 Hz and below.
What do you mean by
use the non inverted input only
? There will be 2 wires per channel
 

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Discussion Starter #56 (Edited)
What do you mean by ? There will be 2 wires per channel
If you don't get an amp that handles differential signals then you have 3 options for hooking up a sub.

Option 1: Say screw it and connected the non-inverted output from the headunit for each channel to the hot/positive lead on your amp for that channel, and the inverted input from the headunit to the neutral/negative lead on your amp for that channel. In a purely mathematical sense, the voltage between the non-inverted and inverted signals will always produce the correct audio curve when the potential difference is examined at any moment in time; however, there is a reason that there some amps are designated as having differential inputs. Single ended input based amps expect the neutral reference to be fixed at 0V and are thus designed around this assumption. Depending on the techniques and components used in the amp the distortion caused by this now constantly moving reference point for neutral/negative (since it isn't actually neutral and would be the inverted signal you're feeding it) may be nearly imperceptible, or make the output sound like total garbage. You would have to just give it a shot and see what it sounds like for a particular amp.

Option 2: If you or someone you know has the capability, assemble a simple differential to single ended conversion circuit to use in-between the headunit and your sub amp. Something like this:


It really is a simple circuit, but messing with electronics at that low of a level is obviously daunting for most people so its understandable if that route isn't an option for you. Unfortunately I can't seem to find any commercially available devices that perform this function out of the box. Most consumers never need to be aware of the fact that differential signals are used in certain solutions, let alone interact with them directly, so I guess cooperations have decided there is almost no market for such a product.

Option 3: Use the non-inverted output from the headunit as your positive wire and the ground connection you are using for your amp (whether it is the car chassis, battery negative, ground pins in the headunit-to-BOSE Amp cabling, etc.) as the negative signal/wire. For your given situation this is the best all around option and what I meant in that quote you posted. This will give you the constant neutral reference a single ended input expects (ground) and the non-inverted signal from the headunit will take the place of the standard AC positive signal/wire you'd have with a single ended output since they are functionally identical. This setup will be like if the headunit did use single ended connections, instead of differential.

What is usually an issue with this approach is that single ended connections need to be heavily shielded as it is their only means to combat noise since they don't have inherent noise cancellation like differential connections do. Depending on the environment, some systems don't shield their differential connections at all. So, in the end, using a differential signal as a pseudo single ended signal like this will make the wires more susceptible to picking up noise from things like your alternator, more so than originally intended at least. Luckily, the wires that carry the differential headunit outputs are still shielded to some degree, and while I'd caution some people against going this route when doing a significant system upgrade, the added noise on the line will be quite minute, if not outright undetectable if all it is used to feed is a subwoofer. So like I said, for you I think this is the best option.
 

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Discussion Starter #57
Really wish I could add this to the OP but there is a tighter image limit after the forum changed systems so I can't save any edits due to the post exceeding 20 images :/

Anyway, I can confirm after checking the 2014 Mazda 6 Workshop manual that all of the information should apply to the 2014-2016 Mazda 3 as well, with the only difference being that the 3 only has 2-way components in the front; however, the extra 2 speakers on the 6 are wired in parallel so the wiring at the BOSE amp end of things is exactly the same (same positions, same number of connections), other than a possible difference in wire coloring.

I cannot be certain about other years or models, though they are most likely very similar at least.
 

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hello oblivioncth,

Just want to thank you for your post. It inspired me to do audio upgrade for my Mazda 6 Wagon 2019. I can attest that what you're saying here are true for Mazda 6 Wagon 2019.

I just posted my build log for anybody who wants to do audio upgrade for Mazda 6 2019.
 
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