Sorry for the extremely late response, I got distracted for a while and didn't think of checking back on this thread until now.
No I am not at all familiar with MATCH products other than seeing the name here and there while looking at products from other companies. I am assuming you are referring to a harness/adapter that would let you connect to the stock output cable from the TAU unit and connect the other end directly to the input of your MATCH amp so that it was more or less "plug-and-play" and no cable splicing was required? If so, yes it doesn't seem like anyone makes one for the 3rd gen Mazda 6's with the BOSE system. Whether it would need to be a "Y" harness for people wanting to keep the BOSE amp installed (if they are just adding a subwoofer or only replacing some speakers) or a straight adapter that omits the BOSE amp entirely, making one would be incredibly easy since it would literally just need to be a cable as no signal conversion is necessary. It would simply need to be a female plug for 0920-515A that completely ditches pins 1G and 1H and then breaks out the other wires to 4 correctly labeled female RCA plugs that carry the non-inverted and inverted signals for each channel coming from the headunit, or a proprietary male connector for whatever specific amp you want to connect it to.
The
PAC AOEM-MAZ2 is basically this adapter ("Y" version that is intended to keep the BOSE Amp connected) except that the inputs are first passed throw a hi-lo converter before being hooked into RCA jacks since it was designed for use with 3rd gen Mazdas without the BOSE system That is the only purpose the box serves with that product, but otherwise I've heard that the wiring of the actual cable is the same as BOSE system wiring in terms of which pins connect to what signals (just accounting for the fact that obviously the headunit outputs are line-level in cars with the BOSE system). So, with fairly basic soldering it wouldn't be hard to snip the ends of the connectors that go to the hi-lo converter box and bypass it entirely so that you essentially are left with a cable that plugs into the TAU unit and routes the 4-channel headunit output to the 4 RCA jacks that the product comes with.
Ideally it would be best if a purpose made harness could be fabricated for Mazdas with the BOSE system so that no splicing is required and the cable is as plug-and-play is it was on your previous vehicle. With a 3D printer, some cable and soldering one could be made pretty quickly, and perhaps there are services that offer making custom cables, but I personally haven't heard of any and don't have access to a 3D printer (nor have I ever used one).
Otherwise there isn't really anything to "consult" on, it is just a matter of making sure the cable routes the 8 signal pins to the correct input pins on your amp (or to RCA jacks/another standard plug). If you are talking about something else then I apologize and please clarify what you meant, lol.
Hey Oblivioncth!
If you don't mind me asking, what kind of setup are you using?
I have JL C7's wired to Alpine amps, all routed to an Audio Control DM-810 and I'm battling some crazy hissing/pink noise...shops have sworn up and down everything is solid with grounding, so I'm curious if you're hearing anything similar on your end.
Situations like this make me wish someone would have made an aftermarket head-unit upgrade worth a damn. ?
I obviously can only vouch for my particular car, but that being said I think unfortunately the issue is with your equipment. I'm not sure how the grounding in my setup was exactly done as I had a shop do it (I needed them for making the custom adapters to fit the new speakers into the non-standard slots the 6 has as I'm fine with the electronics obviously but have little tools to deal with material work, and at that point I just let them do the whole thing after giving them my electronics documentation to save me time), but I have no hissing with my system whatsoever unless nothing is playing and I turn up the volume quite high, which obviously is normal. I believe they just snipped off the male plug of 0920-515A that originally went into the BOSE amp, soldered RCA ends onto the 8 signal wires and then connected it directly to my JL VX1000/5i that I had already bought ahead of time. Everything else is also a fairly standard passive setup, 3-way HAT Unity's (using the same companies passive crossovers) for the front left and right, coaxial HAT Imagine's in the rear doors, the stock rear deck BOSE speakers wired in parallel with the rear door speakers just to give a little bit of rear fill, and a 12W JL W3V3 sub in the rear.
Maybe i should start my own thread with my thoughts on all the loaners/rentals ive had since i got my 3 last August lol... The time on my rental clause was up this week and my 3 was still 3rd in line to get to a tech after almost a month, so i twisted the dealers arm and they gave me a free '18 6 GT turbo today and ill just say... HOLY CRAP that things got some power. But, this is an audio/Bose thread, so... my impressions.
Again, using the AUX jack, EQ on my phone the same as i use in my 3 and Centerpoint turned off (for reasons ive said in another thread), and, this one is better, but still lacks something vs my 3. I think i figured it out though. On the 6, the door speakers are further forward than in the 3, which are closer to the leg which will have an impact on how you perceive/feel the bass. This 6 has sail tweeters instead of in the dash and arent as harsh as the '17 6 GT were. The '18 is loud and clear up to 30 (i didnt go above that since im running a bit of a headache today) and very punchy.
Definitely feel free, people on these kind of boards enjoy having "reviews" of changes over the years for each model, especially when it comes to the entertainment system (or at least I do lol). Very handy for people looking to get a used model that aren't sure exactly which year they want to shoot for.
Speaking of the positions, even though I have more expensive speakers as my fronts, I've found myself being much more OCD about the tuning of the rear door speakers in my amp's DSP settings because they are much closer to my ear then anything else. The front speakers do sit quite far forward and I'm 6' 4" so I have my seat all the way down and all the way back, so the rear door speakers are literally right under my ears (lined up on them exactly horizontally is what I mean). Definitely not ideal but what are you going to do? Its a car not a room in a house, not nearly as much flexibility and I certainly didn't have the capital to go as crazy as doing heavy interior modifications to move the speakers around.
Thanks for helping out others on this thread when I haven't looked at it in a while btw.
Thank you for clarifying. I did read and watch the video several times but was confused on the signal. My amp can accept a signal of 0.6v- 6 volts and was not sure if the signal going to the bose amp exceeded 6 volts.
Like I said in the PM to you (but reposting here for everyone) the outputs from the TAU/headunit are definitely line-level and shouldn't exceed 6V. To be fair I didn't test the output voltage of the system with the volume maxed on the headunit, but as you can see from my scope readings in the section where I show an example of playing a song over the system the output doesn't exceed 2V (2V/div and each signal fills about 1 division). I believe the volume was set around 40-45 during that test. I believe the headunit maxes at like 100 or so? I'm not entirely sure since I've never bothered checking (will have to look next time I'm in my car). If we assume linear scaling and that the volume during that test was possibly closer to 40 (to be on the safe side), then the max output voltage of each signal should cap around X/100 = 2/40 -> X = 200/30 -> X = 5V, which makes sense to me.