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Lexaan. My beautiful 2010 Mazda 6 i Sport.
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I noticed some fluid leaking from the front right of the car the other day, also noted longer than normal shift times.

You can see the large stain where it leaked out while parked.

Automotive parking light Vehicle registration plate Grille Vehicle Hood


I checked the fluid level and it is low, I added some and it immediately leaked again then stopped once it got low enough. You can see the new leak there pretty obviously.

I cannot see exactly where it is leaking from as I am currently on the injured list and my doctor has ordered strict light-duty and to stay the hell off my feet before I do permanent damage.

I am guessing that this is from the transmission cooler lines but my google-fu is failing me and I cannot find a diagram for the transmission cooler lines and was wondering if anyone here had experience with this?

Where is the most commonly expected location for the leak?
Is there a known issue here?
Is the line replaceable without specialized tools or is there a DIY fix for it?
Any clue on the expected cost?

I figure if I am on my back on a creeper doing the work then I am not technically on my feet and so, therefore, I am following the doc's orders, somewhat ;)

Any advice and experience here would be much appreciated.
 

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Lexaan. My beautiful 2010 Mazda 6 i Sport.
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Update, I never listen to my doctors, gee, I wonder why I have so many scars...

Anyway, confirmed it is the lower cooler line, specifically the exact same one and the exact same spot as seen in this thread.


I am going to cut it and toss some compatible rubber hose on it, flare the ends a bit on each cut location and clamp it down and call it a day, should take care of it.

P.S. Holy crap the feet hurt now, I am an idiot, don't do what I did. Turns out the doc was right.
 

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Lexaan. My beautiful 2010 Mazda 6 i Sport.
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52 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
The doctor is always right!

May I know what happened to you?
I started finally exercising and apparently pushed myself a bit much. Apparently a man my size is not advised to take up running after years of sitting on my butt.

A few microfractures and some overworked tendons in both feet. Some rest, ice, compression, elevation and a big old steroid regimine and I should be good to go.

Doc says as long as I stay off them they should heal up in about 3 weeks.

I am already going stir crazy.
 

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Lexaan. My beautiful 2010 Mazda 6 i Sport.
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Alright everyone, thank you all for the advice.

Got out there today and cut out the bad section, cleaned and deburred it, and installed a piece of 11/32 hose onto the metal ends. Temporary fix as while I was under there I saw that the driver side was also rusted to hell and back.
Tire Wheel Automotive tire Vehicle Tread


So I have decided, screw it, I am just going to replace the whole damned thing with braided hose instead, costs less than buying a prebent factory part and eliminates the 370572.8 different connections and fittings on there.

Just one question, does anyone know the size of the fitting at the top of the radiator?

This one right here.

Bicycle part Cable Auto part Metal Font


I would like to replace it with a barb and just go all the way from the transmission, snake it around and right up to the transmission without multiple transitions, just 2 hoses, 4 clamps and call her done.

The lower hose is already set up like that.

Alternatively, is there a particular reason that last few inches is a hard line?

As always thank you in advance for any insight you have.
 

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Lexaan. My beautiful 2010 Mazda 6 i Sport.
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52 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Sorry to hear that. I hope you fully recover soon.

And your car, of course.
Hey thanks a lot, I appreciate that.

I got so excited to finally be up and moving again (I went from over 550 to now down to 382 last I checked) that I was simply ignoring my body's signals that I needed to be a bit more careful, well that, and the expensive damned shoes I got turned out to be pieces of crap and broke down on me, damned foam soles!

Just finished day 4 of a 6-day steroid regimen to control the swelling, the house smells like tiger balm and I have to keep learning the lesson to wear gloves when applying it or suffer the 3am bathroom trip consequences.

However, I was able to get out there today and get the line with the hole cut out and a rubber hose patched in place. 11/32 rubber hose fitting over 3/8 tube is a tight fit lol. Looking to just replace the entire line with a braided rubber hose (the kind suitable for ATF mind you) and eliminate all of the fittings. I just need to figure out the size of the upper radiator fitting screw.
 

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I checked the fluid level and it is low, I added some and it immediately leaked again then stopped once it got low enough. You can see the new leak there pretty obviously.

I cannot see exactly where it is leaking from as I am on the injured list and my doctor 192.168.100.1 192.168.1.1 has ordered strict light-duty and to stay the hell off my feet before I do permanent damage.

I am guessing that this is from the transmission cooler lines but my google-fu is failing me and I cannot find a diagram for the transmission cooler lines and was wondering if anyone here had experience with this?
most likely it's a rusting pipe or you got a hit by a little rock while driving , happen all the time
 

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Lexaan. My beautiful 2010 Mazda 6 i Sport.
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52 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
most likely it's a rusting pipe or you got a hit by a little rock while driving , happen all the time
Rusty pipe. The OEM replacements even have a rubber hose over that exact spot to prevent the issue.
 

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Lexaan. My beautiful 2010 Mazda 6 i Sport.
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Final update on this.

The patch is in place, seems to be holding well and Lexaan is shifting perfectly now.

I have purchased a roll of 3/8th CPE hose to replace the entire metal portion save for the final piece of metal at the top of the radiator. It looks like they used a metal tube there for space concerns and due to the proximity to the hot high-pressure AC line. I will be reusing only that one OEM part or making a new one from high-pressure stainless tube.

So over the next couple of weeks, I will be pulling out the old metal and rubber Frankenstein amalgamation of lines and replacing them with 2 full-run CPE lines with FI clamps and only 5 total connections instead of the 40k currently there.

I will also be covering any location that could possibly rub in a protective nylon weave to prevent abrasion.

Thank you all for the help and support, it was really appreciated.

Now to fix up the old GMT400. It has what I suspect is rod knock, that should be fun to fix.
 
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