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Discussion Starter #1
Car: 2010 Mazda 6
Miles: just under 26k

I've been trying to do some research into some of the issues I've been having with my car and it brought me to this web site. Just to go over this (what I consider long for a relatively new car) history of what I've been through thus far:

Chronological order

1) CEL comes on - faulty gas cap
2) CEL comes on - some "tube" was replaced (sorry, I know very little about the technical side of vehicles)
3) Car starts with high/rough idle - CEL, DSC come on - put car in Reverse, it "kicks" back - put car in Drive, it starts going without any pressure on gas pedal. I drove it a good mile without my foot on the pedal at 5 o'clock traffic. Dealer reset the warnings, couldn't find anything wrong.
4) Same as 3 - computer reading said something about emissions - another "tube" was replaced.
5) Same as 4 - computer reading this time lead to replacing some computer chip; had to get my keys reprogrammed.
6) Car alarm starts going off in the middle of the night; battery is dead. Get it jumped, but all the gauges and lights are turned on. Had it towed to the dealer. They said they didn't find much and had to tighten some bolts on the doors or something. They did a cold start the next day and it started fine.
7) Same as 6 - this time the alarm was only going off for an hour (according to my neighbor) so when I go out, alarm isn't going off. Start car up, CEL comes on. Now this time, I cannot unlock or lock my door using the remote key.

At this point, I'm very dissatisfied with this because I can't get a good answer from the dealer because they can't find anything wrong. I would think logic dictates that there's an electrical problem or a sensor with the key/panic button/lock/unlock causing this short.

Has anyone seen this type of issue or know what type of questions I should be asking the service manager at the dealer? I'm at a complete loss right now.

Thanks.
 

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The tubes may just be pipes / hoses for the evap recirc circuit which is all gas recovery, emissions based - nothing that will leave you stranded.

The dead battery is something legit - you may have to resort to trial and error like checking for battery draw using an multimeter and pulling fuses till you see 0 voltage drop (if you saw one to begin with) - you could have the dealership do it and let them keep your car a couple days but they don't sound like they care about your problem as much as you do....

Is there another dealership kinda local you can bring it to?
 

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Car: 2010 Mazda 6
Miles: just under 26k

I've been trying to do some research into some of the issues I've been having with my car and it brought me to this web site. Just to go over this (what I consider long for a relatively new car) history of what I've been through thus far:

Chronological order

1) CEL comes on - faulty gas cap
2) CEL comes on - some "tube" was replaced (sorry, I know very little about the technical side of vehicles)
3) Car starts with high/rough idle - CEL, DSC come on - put car in Reverse, it "kicks" back - put car in Drive, it starts going without any pressure on gas pedal. I drove it a good mile without my foot on the pedal at 5 o'clock traffic. Dealer reset the warnings, couldn't find anything wrong.
4) Same as 3 - computer reading said something about emissions - another "tube" was replaced.
5) Same as 4 - computer reading this time lead to replacing some computer chip; had to get my keys reprogrammed.
6) Car alarm starts going off in the middle of the night; battery is dead. Get it jumped, but all the gauges and lights are turned on. Had it towed to the dealer. They said they didn't find much and had to tighten some bolts on the doors or something. They did a cold start the next day and it started fine.
7) Same as 6 - this time the alarm was only going off for an hour (according to my neighbor) so when I go out, alarm isn't going off. Start car up, CEL comes on. Now this time, I cannot unlock or lock my door using the remote key.

At this point, I'm very dissatisfied with this because I can't get a good answer from the dealer because they can't find anything wrong. I would think logic dictates that there's an electrical problem or a sensor with the key/panic button/lock/unlock causing this short.

Has anyone seen this type of issue or know what type of questions I should be asking the service manager at the dealer? I'm at a complete loss right now.

Thanks.
Hopefully you found out what was wrong. I have a 6 with the same issues. Took it to the dealer multiple times to no avail. They even called to tell me my vehicle was ready and i go pick it up and it was deader than a doorknob. They couldn't explain it and simply gave me a new battery. Im about 4 batteries in now but found out it was the body control module. $1500 later lets see if thats really the issue!
 

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Registered
Joined
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1 Posts
Car: 2010 Mazda 6
Miles: just under 26k

I've been trying to do some research into some of the issues I've been having with my car and it brought me to this web site. Just to go over this (what I consider long for a relatively new car) history of what I've been through thus far:

Chronological order

1) CEL comes on - faulty gas cap
2) CEL comes on - some "tube" was replaced (sorry, I know very little about the technical side of vehicles)
3) Car starts with high/rough idle - CEL, DSC come on - put car in Reverse, it "kicks" back - put car in Drive, it starts going without any pressure on gas pedal. I drove it a good mile without my foot on the pedal at 5 o'clock traffic. Dealer reset the warnings, couldn't find anything wrong.
4) Same as 3 - computer reading said something about emissions - another "tube" was replaced.
5) Same as 4 - computer reading this time lead to replacing some computer chip; had to get my keys reprogrammed.
6) Car alarm starts going off in the middle of the night; battery is dead. Get it jumped, but all the gauges and lights are turned on. Had it towed to the dealer. They said they didn't find much and had to tighten some bolts on the doors or something. They did a cold start the next day and it started fine.
7) Same as 6 - this time the alarm was only going off for an hour (according to my neighbor) so when I go out, alarm isn't going off. Start car up, CEL comes on. Now this time, I cannot unlock or lock my door using the remote key.

At this point, I'm very dissatisfied with this because I can't get a good answer from the dealer because they can't find anything wrong. I would think logic dictates that there's an electrical problem or a sensor with the key/panic button/lock/unlock causing this short.

Has anyone seen this type of issue or know what type of questions I should be asking the service manager at the dealer? I'm at a complete loss right now.

Thanks.
These dealership service workers dont know anything if the computer doesn't tell them. I have a few things I need fixed on this car and they told me to chalk it up as a lose. Some of the issues was the 02 sensors, weird brake noise, and my keyless entry system not recognizing the key fobs. Well I found a great local mechanic in business for 4 decades and he fixed the 02 sensor, brakes rust (which I was told would be too much) & fog lights for $350. He also told me to bring the car back when I have a day or so to leave it with him to check out the keyless system which he things just needs the main fuse replaced. The moral is find a small business mechanic that actual works on cars and dont let the dealership deter you.
 
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