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Discussion Starter #141
Didnt get too much more done, just some odds and ends on the MS6 swap. I hurt my neck the day prior so I have a stiff neck today. Excedrin works wonders, but still mobility is limited :(

Sideskirts. MS6 on the right.



The lower part of the bumper was damaged (air scoop?? Dont know what is called)when I received it so I had a replacement part, but I didnt realize the lip was riveted on. I drilled the rivets out and then I used some speed clips I pilfered from the outgoing bumper and screwed it back on. To use the speed clips I need to modify the air scoop a bit.





Above photo shows how my bumper was damaged.

lower lip removed from air scoop ready to be put on new part.



Lip attached to the new air scoop and screwed on.

Speaking of air scoops, the MS6 front grille is also designed to direct air into the hood for the intercooler


This the back side of the grille, it if directing air straight up as there is where the hood duct opening is located. Later on I want to modify this to provide more air to the radiator rather than have the air redirected. I wanted to remove just the duct on the grille, but unfortunately the grille for the most part attaches to this duct....I'll have to revisit it at a later date.

Hood ducting that 'connects' to the grille


Hood Ducting. I took it off once, but realized that the front hood rubber strip relies on it.


Here is the regular hood latch with the MS6 bumper, you can see the safety release handle is contacting the bumper.


Here the hood latches side by side. You can clearly tell the the handle is shorter on the MS6 one.


MS6 latch installed.


Filler foam between the bumper. MS6 on the left.

On top is the MS6 one.
 
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Discussion Starter #142
I got the fog lights to work. I was lucky enough on the passenger side the bumper came with a pig tail. On the regular 6 it seems like the fog light wiring is a female receptacle, but the MS6 is looking for a male one. I realized I had the pig tail so I spliced that onto the car.


On the driver side, it is a bit short, but I was able to just plug in the fog light once I had the bumper installed.

Fog Lights on.


In the above photo you can see the lower air scoop I had replaced.

I didnt feel like it so I didnt give it a try but I am 90% sure you need the fender liners. It attaches to the front bumper slightly differently on the edge. It is also a little bit different attachment by the back side edge of the wheel well (near the door)

The bottom one is MS6.


The left one is MS6. You can see it has insulation that the stock doesnt have.


These are required for attachment.



As so.


One minor detail is the fender to cowl gap filler panels. The ones off the regular 6 doesn't work.


They install here.


Like so.


MS6 faced Wagon.


At the end of the day if you pull your own parts and pull them as assemblies, its not that big of deal, just get the fender liners, sideskirts and cowl. If you get them 'pre-pulled' like i did, expect some smaller pieces missing. Good news is that the pieces are still available from the dealer (as of over a year ago). The parts list that is floating around on the forum, is helpful as I used it to track down the PN for the parts I was missing. The list includes every clip, screw for the set up (the bumper itself is probably 10 separate pieces) that is why its so long.

Intercooler I plan on using. Dont know much about it as it was a freebie. 2.5" In/oulets.


99 SLK230 M62 vs early Gen2 GM M62


As you can see the SLK one is considerably more compact. But I may switch things around and put the snout from the GM unit on the SLK housing. The downside is unless I can keep the SLK rotors (Gen3) the Gen2 is less efficient. The plus side is the GM unit it is more reasonable to buy pullies for it. No way I slice it I need to buy a pulley. The GM one is 2.55" and would be way too small (too much boost) and the SLK one although clutched (can turn it off by a switch) is waaay too big and may not produce boost or very little. From what Tkemme said in his thread the 2.85" pulley he had produced at least 8psi when his "wastegate" broke. I'm really aiming for 4-5psi atm and I just want to size the pulley for the max boost rather than rely on a "wastegate"
 

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Discussion Starter #143
Also forgot we need to pour one for the 2006 Liquid Platinum MS6 that went to the scrappers for this project to come true😢
 
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Discussion Starter #145 (Edited)
Worked on this a bit over the weekend. Sorry a bit light on the photos this time.

My main target was working on the mounting adapter bracket/plate for the SC. I apparently forgot to take a photo but I do have a version roughed out with plywood. Its a bummer that the oil pan isn't straight right there but oh well. I tried to 'bolt on' the wood adapter to pan to find out I need to do the oil filter relocate first. Anticipating this, I did have remote filter parts on-hand...but ran into issues. tkemme installed his remote oil filter right where my planned intercooler piping will inhabit. Its a smart location for the remote oil filter as it is a short run, somewhere between 1-2ft. So I went out to see where else I could install it. I was really hoping to keep it all on the passenger side, but with the Mazdaspeed6 reservoir and the water meth injection pump planned in that area, I just don't see it happening. So I decided to look to the driver side. The driver side bumper area will house the air filter just like I have with my Injen CAI but still leaves the intercooler piping issue not to mention the approx 4ft run. The suggestion on the internet is to use at least 8an, but move up for longer distances, so I've settled on 10an. To also help combat any possible pressure loss, I thought I better get higher quality oil filter adapter and mount. I was going to use Derale parts (less than $50 total, not including hose, fittings), but instead decided to go with an Improved Racing brand adapter and Earl's oil filter mount. Both are billet parts with smoother looking pathways/transitions based off the photos, but were 4x more the price. The planned routing at the moment is to mount the oil filter where the factory air resonator (used to) reside and run underneath the driver headlight and back down to the subframe and run along that to the filter adapter. Nice thing about summit racing is that you can return your items pretty easily less the shipping. While I wait for the replacement parts, I decided that I will just remove the oil filter for now to continue on.

Now that the oil filter is out of the way (temporarily), I had a 'plate' that was able to bolt on to the oil pan area. Next I wanted to try to 'bolt on' the SC to it. In order to do so, I needed to cut out the area were the SC outlet would be as it is raised above the mounts about an inch. While trying to figure out where I need to cut out a hole for the outlet I realized my next problem. The A/C compressor.

In tkemme's install he said that you can keep the A/C and showed pictures of the A/C compressor installed. I soon realized that my super compact Mercedes SC is cause of the A/C interference. I was prepared for this, but still a little disappointed as I was hoping for a bit more room on the inlet side. Part of the reason for going with the Mercedes SC is due to it gasket availability and modularity. The one other reason is that I ran across a thread on grassrootsmotorsports.com how you can interchange the case between this SC and the GM one...like this:



It is actually quite easy to do. The problem is that the GM SC I have is a gen 2 and the mercedes SC is the more efficient gen3. AFAIK the biggest difference between the Gens is that the rotors are coated for better overall efficiencies. That on the GM SC I have is like 30 years old and have that much crap build up on them and the Mercedes one looks brand new.

pre-94 GM Series I SC...look charbroiled, but they actually clean up well, just a bunch of carbon build up.


GM Case there is a bunch of carbon build up and some scratches. As far as I can tell serviceable if cleaned up.


Mercedes Rotor pack...clean as whistle. Apparently you can't clean these with any type of solvent. It causes the coating to dissolve.


Mercedes Case


Problem with that is that this particular Mercedes SC and all GM SCs have different drives inside. As so:



The Mercedes is the left one with the splined long protruding shaft. The GM unit is the one with the 3 prongs where the coupler rides. I might try just swapping the timing gears and then cut off the excess on the protuding shaft. But you might notice that the timing gear teeth are also slightly different as well. In the end I may have the Mercedes timing gears modified at a machine shop to accept the GM/Eaton style coupler. The easier way would be to track down a 94-95 GM M62 Gen3 SC with good rotors and swap the rotor pack as a unit and you wouldnt have the issue I'm running into. I guess its not an issue if you are fine with gen2 rotors either. I am also toying with the idea of changing the bearings in the rotor pack, but I am a bit worried about retiming the rotors. Some have tried and failed and a handful did so successfully.

Parts laid out.



Anyway once I assembled my 'frankenstein' M62 SC, viola, the SC outlet now clears the A/C, and its located just under the oil filter area. I've gotten a lot closer to the header now, but still a little more space than tkemme had with his modified GM unit. Unfortunately, now with the longer nose it has made my wooden adapter bracket too short. So I will need to make a new version with this new franken SC.

Just in case anyone was wondering....the wooden adapter is just for modeling. I'm going to have the final version water-jetted.

GM snout/nose on the Mercedes case

Pros:
  • Snout rebuild kits are cheaper.
  • Pulley changes are cheaper $100~$125 vs $300-$400
  • Part availability is better
  • On the Mercedes case, the rear bearings are easily accessed for change.
  • Mercedes case in itself needs less modifying to work on our chassis
  • Mercedes gaskets are available for inlet and outlet.
Cons:
  • The Mercedes snout has 2 of the 4 mounting locations on it...and the 3rd one looks like it might need to be cut off for room.
  • You have to swap the innards. That in itself isn't bad but the SC oil is the nastiest smelling thing on earth. I'll sniff rear diff gear oil any day!
  • You basically need to buy 2 SCs to do it...or just find a GM snout and modify the Mercedes rotors.
Mazdaspeed6 washer reservoir showed up. I hear it holds about 1.5 gallons of fluid. Its kinda hard to tell in the photos but it is bigger than the wagon one.


Here is where I will be installing the rear washer pump....has a factory template!


Things to note on this swap. The speed6 reservoir uses the bumper reinforcement to help hold it up. The regular 6 bumper reinforcement doesn't have this provision. Doesn't necessarily need it though, although you probably should rig something on that side to help support the additional weight. The washer pump does plug into our harness, but instead of Denso pumps it appears to be another OEM supplier (ASMO) I never heard of. The level sensor though, has a different plug than what 'normal' 6s have. The car side connector is female, but the speed6 is also female. The regular 6 has a male connector on the sensor. Mazda had to make it hard lol!
 

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This latest supercharger and MS6 project looks amazing! I've tossed around the idea a small SC, and this is looking awesome! (I was looking at the SC unit from the v6 Mazda Millennia, for no reason other than it was from another Mazda v6.) I'll be looking forward to more of your project moving forward here, that's for sure.
 
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Discussion Starter #147
I was looking at the SC unit from the v6 Mazda Millennia, for no reason other than it was from another Mazda v6.
THAT might be a really good condidate....I was looking at the dimensions, Its roughly 6" wide, so it would fit in the space under the A/C pretty well and it would use engine oil pressure and hence engine oil for lubrication. From what I read it is a bit long at 20", but I think that measure is with the throttle body adapter and bypass valve components attached. So I think it can be reduced to a smaller size and fit well around the header. From what I read though it sounds like it pushes a lot of air (and more efficient than the Roots/Eaton) so you'd probably need a good sized pulley to keep it at lower boost levels. But it gives a lot fo head room for more power unlike the m62. I didnt spend too much time looking at the M90 SC as I think space really does become an issue....unless the Mercedes or GM M62 snout bolts on. It might as I read the differences between M62 vs M90 is the length of the rotors rather than girth.
 

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Yeah, it's an interesting looking blower, and taking a closer look at some pictures, you may be right about the extra length from the TB thing. Honestly, I had never thought of placing it below the engine for some reason, the way you've been looking to do with the Eatons you have already, regardless, I'm looking forward to see how you'll be mounting your SC option.

I've also had great luck with search results for Millennia S models in the local junkyards, but I've not gone to see any of them - I live in Phoenix and it's been waaaaaaay too hot for the last 5 months or so to think about bothering with that. 🥵

For anyone else who might be reading this, here's where I found some good starting information on available junkyard superchargers (from a group that partakes in the Lemons races, so you know they scavenge good! ;) )

If nothing else, it's a leaping off point if you're interested.
 
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