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Hi guys,
This is my first time ever using a Forum before so please excuse me if I do anything wrong. I have a 2006 MazdaSpeed 6 that is having issues. I bought this car on Saturday, November 16, 2019, The goal of this car was to be my daily driver for university. I drove six hours to get this car and absolutely loved it. The test drive was perfect no issues or check engine lights. Being my first car it does have cosmetic issues, I.E Broken front bumper and rear, Broken windshield washer fluid reservoir, tiny discoloration, After I purchased the car I filled up at a gas station in a mountain town, which was at first my explanation for the problems. About 3 hours into my drive I was running in sixth and whenever I would push on the throttle over about a sixth of the way it would start to studder. I was going about 75 mph. I thought that it was just me being in to high of a gear for the car to run right. About 30 minutes later, it did the same thing but this time it was more of a clunking noise and a check engine light came on. The code was A PO303, Cylinder 3 misfire. Being alarmed I pulled off to the side of the road. Earlier the guy I bought the car from said that whenever going over bumpy surfaces an electrical fitting underneath the airbox will come lose and shut the car off and throw a code for the fuel pump. When I pulled off and check it had not come lose. I decided to drive the car the rest of the way home. Thinking it could have been bad gas. Fast forwarding to Monday. I pulled the TMIC off and went through the engine. I replaced the spark plugs with NGK Iridium 9 spark plugs which were the same exact ones in the car before. I also switched the cylinder 3 coil with the cylinder 4 coil. May I add that the TMIC was not secured by bolts and the intercooler attachment hose, no clue what they are called, were barely on. Also the bypass valve was broken. Th little fiting on top of the bypass valve was broken. It had been glued back on but the glue had broken. Today on my way home from school. The engine threw another code, P2177, System too lean at off idle right bank.

The car had been to Mazda before and had found that the car was 600 psi under pressure and out of time. The dealer replaced the high pressure fuel pump with an intake pump which was 2 bars low and put the engine back into time. While doing this they found a head gasket leak. I have no idea if it was fixed or not. Also noted was that the cars pressure went back to normal but still dies. This was all in 2014. Since then the car has been in a collision with a snow bank.

Any ideas on what could be wrong? Pretty sure it is just not getting enough gas. Could it be the High pressure fuel pump again? The in tank pump? Injector? Or could it be that maybe the fuel pump isn't getting enough power because of the broken electrical fitting underneath the air box? It connects to some sort of metal electrical box. Please tell me what you think. I will attach a video of what is happening, the codes, a picture of the last receipt for work. Also to note I do not have an accessport or any mods done to the car.
 

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Quickly, you probably should replace the bypass valve. You can get a stock one. This is causing a vacuum leak and running lean. Try to get a Cobb Accessport to monitor vitals of your car. You have a High Pressure Fuel Pump in the engine bay. At idle, should be about 400lbs of pressure. Your in fuel tank one will give you about 40-60 lbs to feed the HPFP. Electrical connection under airbox, MAF sensor? needs to be secure to measure air.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Quickly, you probably should replace the bypass valve. You can get a stock one. This is causing a vacuum leak and running lean. Try to get a Cobb Accessport to monitor vitals of your car. You have a High Pressure Fuel Pump in the engine bay. At idle, should be about 400lbs of pressure. Your in fuel tank one will give you about 40-60 lbs to feed the HPFP. Electrical connection under airbox, MAF sensor? needs to be secure to measure air.
It's not a MAF it's mounted to the chassis right under the airbox mounting bracket. If I eventually wanted to do mods to the car could I get an aftermarket bypass or would that Jack up the system? Thanks so much for your help!
 

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Yes, You can. Try to stick with tried and true. Cobb, Tial, HKS. Do not recommend VTA type unless you compensate with the Cobb AP. Should not try to mod your car until you determine what is at fault. Hopefully, your car is mostly stock. Most recommend changing the HPFP internals and getting the Cobb AP before doing mods. I think Cobb might be running a sale now. Can also pick up one used. Probably need to see your short term fuel trims (STFT) and long term fuel trims (LTFT) are at to determine how lean you are. There is also versatune. More at Mazdaspeedforums.org. Be careful, could be a rough crowd. Also check mazdaspeeds.org.
 
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