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Ok, so we have my girlfriend's 05 in the other day, AGAIN.....this time for a battery that is shot after less than 2 years. In the process, the dealer does one of their little vehicle checks and informs me that the rear brakes are down to about 10%. The car has right at 37k on it. Now I know a little about cars <---sarcasm....and I know that brakes, especially rear brakes, don't typically need to be replaced after only 37k miles. Typically the front brakes of, especially front wheel drive cars, need to be replaced before the rears. The service manager or writer or whomever he was informs me that this is fairly typical with the 6's and the 3's. He said that they've been putting 2-3 sets of rears on before the fronts need to be replaced. To me, he came across as saying that this was pretty common. In my opinion, that's a problem. Front wheel drive cars ESPECIALLY need to have brakes that are more proportioned to the front as to assist slowing down of the drive axle. That as opposed to dragging the car to a stop by the "dead" rear axle. If the rear brakes are wearing THAT quickly, it seems as if there's an issue with too much proportioning going to the rear brakes. If this is such a common problem at this particular dealership, I'd think that it would be fairly common amongst the rest of the population of 6 and 3 owners. I'm curious as to how common this issue is, if at all, amongst owners here? I'd much appreciate any comments or discussion on this. I'm not very willing to shell out $200 every 30k miles or so to replace brakes, whether front or rear. If I can get a set of tires to last 60k miles then I'm sure as hell not gonna replace brakes twice in that period. I'd rather leave it in an undesirable part of town and let it get stolen. :D

Josh
 

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My car has 34k on it now. My front brakes are done to about 10% but my rears are at about 50%.

So I can see why the rear would need to be replaced before the fronts. The is physically Impossible.

When you stop, all the weigh goes to the front of the car, that is why the fornt wear faster then the rear. I think he is just yanking your chain.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
My car has 34k on it now. My front brakes are done to about 10% but my rears are at about 50%.

So I can see why the rear would need to be replaced before the fronts. The is physically Impossible.

When you stop, all the weigh goes to the front of the car, that is why the fornt wear faster then the rear. I think he is just yanking your chain.
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I mean, I have pulled a wheel and looked at them yet but I know that there's noise coming from the rear for sure. The funny thing is that when we bought the car, I had them give us a printout of all of the warranty work that had previously been performed on the car. The car was a year old and was previously a rental car. I wanted to see what all maintenance and warranty work had been performed. Anyway, there's a listing on that printout that leads me to think that the brakes (not sure if it's front or rear) have been replaced once already. I've got 7 years of experience working in parts and service as well as 20+ years of experience with cars in general. I kinda understand how things work. None of this makes any sense.
 

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no it doesn't. I have been track and autocross racing for over five years now. I have been working on cars and modifing cars for almost ten years. I have never came across a car that the rear brakes go faster then the front.

I have done brake jobs on front wheel drive cars, rear wheel drive cars and 4 wheel drive SUVs. All of them had way more wear in the front then the rear.

They only thing I can think of is that being the car was a rental, it went through alot of braking abuse and the fronts were already swapped out.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
no it doesn't. I have been track and autocross racing for over five years now. I have been working on cars and modifing cars for almost ten years. I have never came across a car that the rear brakes go faster then the front.

I have done brake jobs on front wheel drive cars, rear wheel drive cars and 4 wheel drive SUVs. All of them had way more wear in the front then the rear.

They only thing I can think of is that being the car was a rental, it went through alot of braking abuse and the fronts were already swapped out.
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Even though it was a rental, it still doesn't make sense. I drive a 4wheel drive truck with 33" tires on it and I have yet to put brakes on it. The rears are the factory brakes but I don't know about the fronts. The truck has 114k on it. The fronts MAY have been changed out once, but could very well be the originals.

37k just flat out shouldn't be enough miles to warrant the need to change either front or rear brakes. I'd still be complaining if the fronts were worn out in 37k miles, much less if they've already been swapped once and now the rears need it, all in 37k. The other thing that bugs me is that the dealership acted like this was a common issue. If it's that common, you'd think Mazda would be doing something about it. There's obviously something wrong though. If I can't get anything out of the dealer, which I'm not expecting, then I guess I'll make an attempt to contact someone at Mazda.
 

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One thing you will learn about the Mazda 6 is that everything on these cars wear out faster then they should. If you search around here, you will see that alot of guys are replacing there clutchs at 37K, let alone there breaks. If I were you, I would check the brakes out yourself and if they are low, get something better then OEM.

I got a set of carbotech bobcats from brakeswap. IM eric at liteswap and he will give you a deal.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
One thing you will learn about the Mazda 6 is that everything on these cars wear out faster then they should. If you search around here, you will see that alot of guys are replacing there clutchs at 37K, let alone there breaks. If I were you, I would check the brakes out yourself and if they are low, get something better then OEM.

I got a set of carbotech bobcats from brakeswap. IM eric at liteswap and he will give you a deal.
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So if I do indeed end up having to go this route, what kind of money am I looking at for a setup like that? Also, are you talking front or rear (or do they make both)?
 

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So if I do indeed end up having to go this route, what kind of money am I looking at for a setup like that? Also, are you talking front or rear (or do they make both)?
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Carbotech makes front and rears, in fact Carbotech is your best bet for an OEM style brakepad for quality purposes. Tule of thumb on any car, if a part brakes, try your hardest to invest and buy an anftermarket part for it rather than spending more for another. If you need more help with brakes there's a list

here
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Carbotech makes front and rears, in fact Carbotech is your best bet for an OEM style brakepad for quality purposes. Tule of thumb on any car, if a part brakes, try your hardest to invest and buy an anftermarket part for it rather than spending more for another. If you need more help with brakes there's a list

here
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Thanks for the link to that post. I ran across it earlier when I was searching through this forum for answers before I posted. Great information in there. If I can't get anything accomplished by contacting Mazda, I'll definitely be doing this job myself instead of shelling out $200 to the dealer to put the stock junk back on.
 

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Thanks for the link to that post. I ran across it earlier when I was searching through this forum for answers before I posted. Great information in there. If I can't get anything accomplished by contacting Mazda, I'll definitely be doing this job myself instead of shelling out $200 to the dealer to put the stock junk back on.
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Sounds like a good idea, just make sure you buy brakes you know that you'll invest in not only for money, but safety! Good luck!
 

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Rear brakes wears faster than front only in one case.
If somebody forgot to remove park brake and made a trip with it.
Typycaly 2-3 sets of rear at 1 set front.
 

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That's a good point. It was a rental car before you brought it. Someone could have driven the car with the parking brake on and did not know it.
 

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Carbotech makes front and rears, in fact Carbotech is your best bet for an OEM style brakepad for quality purposes. Tule of thumb on any car, if a part brakes, try your hardest to invest and buy an anftermarket part for it rather than spending more for another. If you need more help with brakes there's a list

here
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My front pads are just about done at 31,000 miles. The rotors are fine now, but do not have enough remaining metal to allow them to be turned, so I have spent a lot of time researching replacements.

Crossbow's review of brake pad alternatives in the mazda6club forum you link to above is great; I really respect Crossbow's expertise. However, I have read some reviews of the Carbotech Bobcats that he favors that say that, great as the Bobcats are for weekend track use (high fade resistance), for street use, they take a few stops to get warmed up on cold mornings, and, until they are warmed up, the brakes are pretty anemic. With winter coming on, that is something to ponder for those of us who do not live in Southern California or Florida.

May I suggest that you read this entire thread and follow the links it contains? It (including the links) is the best single discussion comparing brake pads I have come across. After reading it (and some other discussions and comparisons from actual users), for me, for the front brakes it came down to Axxis (PBR) Ultimates or Hawk Performance Ceramics, and, of those two, I eventually came down on the side of the Ultimates. (I know of no source for Ultimates for the rear, and when I need rear pads, will again consider Hawk Performance Ceramic or EBC Greenstuff.) YMMV.
 

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My front pads are just about done at 31,000 miles. The rotors are fine now, but do not have enough remaining metal to allow them to be turned, so I have spent a lot of time researching replacements.

Crossbow's review of brake pad alternatives in the mazda6club forum you link to above is great; I really respect Crossbow's expertise. However, I have read some reviews of the Carbotech Bobcats that he favors that say that, great as the Bobcats are for weekend track use (high fade resistance), for street use, they take a few stops to get warmed up on cold mornings, and, until they are warmed up, the brakes are prety anemic. With winter coming on, that is something to ponder for those of us who do not live in Southern California or Florida.

May I suggest that you read this entire thread and follow the links it contains? It (including the links) is the best single discussion comparing brake pads I have come across. After reading it (and some other discussions and comparisons from actual users), for me, for the front brakes it came down to Axxis (PBR) Ultimates or Hawk Performance Ceramics, and, of those two, I eventually came down on the side of the Ultimates. (I know of no source for Ultimates for the rear, and when I need rear pads, will again consider Hawk Performance Ceramic or EBC Greenstuff.) YMMV.
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I went on brakeswap.com and looked up the info on the bobcat brake pads. This is what I found.

The Bobcat is NOT recommended for track use.

# Extremely low dusting on the street
# Excellent cold stopping, perhaps as low as 40F!!
# Fade resistant to at least 900F
# Very rotor friendly over entire temperature range
# Very quiet over broad range of line pressure inputs
# Incredibly firm pedal feel and excellent initial bite.

So from what I just read, I would think they would be great in cold weather.
 

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I went on brakeswap.com and looked up the info on the bobcat brake pads. This is what I found.

# Excellent cold stopping, perhaps as low as 40F!!

So from what I just read, I would think they would be great in cold weather.
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Forty degrees F. is given as the lowest temperature they will work, qualified by "perhaps." We see temperatures in that range here in the temperate Pacific Northwest several times a year, and well below that when we go up to the mountain for XC skiing.

Here is an actual user's experience:

I iinstalled the Carbotech Bobcat pads on my B6 A4 1.8TQM based on the reviews from several forum members. After several thousand miles of driving here are my impressions.

1. Initial Bite - The initial bite on these pads actually felt a bit worse than stock. When cold, these pads do not bite at all. I actually had a close call when trying to stop without warming them up after pulling out of the driveway. . . .
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See more at: this URL.
 

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I find that hard to believe. How can a company sell brake pads that fail under 40 degrees F. That can't be legal.

If there is anyone on this forum that has these pads installed, please let us know if you had any problems with them under 40 degrees F. This is before you warm them up.

I find it odd that you would be allowed to sell brake pads that don't work under 40 degrees F before they are warmed up. I've on the track, there are days that you start and the pads would be below 40.
 

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I find that hard to believe. How can a company sell brake pads that fail under 40 degrees F. That can't be legal.
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I know of no legal requirement that brake pads actually work under the conditions that drivers choose to use them. :) Every brake pad has a useful range of temperatures within which it is effective; those with the greatest fade resistance on the high temperature end (favored by auto-crossers) tend to be those with the least grip at the low temperature end, and vice versa.

If there is anyone on this forum that has these pads installed, please let us know if you had any problems with them under 40 degrees F. This is before you warm them up.

I find it odd that you would be allowed to sell brake pads that don't work under 40 degrees F before they are warmed up. I've on the track, there are days that you start and the pads would be below 40.
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There is no law that prohibits selling non-winter tires in areas where it snows heavily, either; and there is no law to prohibit SAE 50 weight oil in engines in Alaska. I would not recommend either practice, however.

In order for the brake pads to warm up, they have to generate heat by friction, but, perversely, if the friction between the rotor and the pads is low because the brakes have not yet warmed up, they don't generate much heat right away. I have read nothing but praise of the Bobcats once they have reached operating temperature.
 

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Ok, But I still would like to hear if anyone on the board has any problems with them. So people, let me know.
 

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Ive used and tested Bobcats before and they work in the cold... maybe not at optimal, but they work. Track pads designed for use at 1200+ degrees would still work in the cold... it doesnt take that long to warm up rotors.

From personal experience, Ive used them in the winter on street cars and I dont notice substantial loss in bite. I do not believe the single Audi poster is indicative of Bobcat performance as a rule.

There are also people who claim they dont work in the rain either and people automatically assumed they are poor wet pads.... until we determined they were driving through monsoon like conditions, in which ANY pad would not function the same.

:drive:
 

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Usually fast brake wear is caused by the caliper sticking. Also can be your e-braking not letting go completely or possibly, but not likely, your rotors could be getting to thin. I had that happen on an old car and I went through a set of pads in two months when the rotors were to thin.
 
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