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Hi I'm new in this forum. My car is throwing a lot of codes involving the EGR and the system Bank. I have a po303 po401 p2179 p2177 and many more does anyone know how to diagnose this or fix it?
 

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Hi I'm new in this forum. My car is throwing a lot of codes involving the EGR and the system Bank. I have a po303 po401 p2179 p2177 and many more does anyone know how to diagnose this or fix it?
Here are some snaps from my FSM hopefully these will help you. that P0303 is a misfire code and you are going to want to take care of that immediately so it doesn't destroy your pre-cats. I also noticed that your other codes could be caused by a misfire, my guess is that you need one or more new ignition coils they regularly go bad on these.
 

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Rally Racer
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Hi I'm new in this forum. My car is throwing a lot of codes involving the EGR and the system Bank. I have a po303 po401 p2179 p2177 and many more does anyone know how to diagnose this or fix it?

Welcome to the form, we love our wagons (although I could be biased)


The P0303 is the killer, you gotta get this fixed. Usually I is remedies by new plugs and coils but moving cylinder 3 to another location and waiting for the code retuen would be a way to verify. (It is happened so many times on this forum that if you haven't replaced those items I would just do all 6)


The search bar in the upper right will take you straight to all those codes. There you can read what other people did to fix similar scenarios.


If I had to guess I would say either the EGR is clogged or the EGR purge valve solenoid is not working.
For the Lean codes make sure you do net have an intake air leak. The accordion hose running from the air cleaner is notorious.


OEM parts
Mazda AJTT-18-110 - Spark Plugs x6 (these will be Motorcraft AGSF 22FSCM)
DENSO 673 6005 - Ignition Coils x6
 

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Discussion Starter #5
@Jael Ryan , as @bluedevil6 says, solve those misfires pronto! I'm not sure how many miles you have on your long top, but the coils are a bit of a service item on these cars. It is unfortunate, but it seems that many people seem to start having issues at 100k miles. I would strongly suggest a full replacement of the coils and likely a set of plugs. The issue is that getting to them can be a bit of a problem and delaying the repair can cause significant expense and possible engine failure. I don't want to scare you there, but pre cat failure on these duratec v6 engines is well documented. I'd start with the misfire fix first. One thing I'd add too is that the harness clips that go into the coils can sometimes lose their pliability and they will break off the little clip that secures them into the coil. I had this problem and ended up using a small zip tie to make sure it would stay in place. It is not my favorite solution, but the only other resolution is to replace the plug at that given coil. I had bought the parts to do so but decided it was going to be so much work as there isn't much room to work on the harness at the coil location. I still have the clips but my zip tie solution is still working fine for the moment.
I will solve this pronto. My dad's helping me take it to a dealer to have it checked. The car has about 109500 miles.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Hi I'm new in this forum. My car is throwing a lot of codes involving the EGR and the system Bank. I have a po303 po401 p2179 p2177 and many more does anyone know how to diagnose this or fix it?

Welcome to the form, we love our wagons (although I could be biased)


The P0303 is the killer, you gotta get this fixed. Usually I is remedies by new plugs and coils but moving cylinder 3 to another location and waiting for the code retuen would be a way to verify. (It is happened so many times on this forum that if you haven't replaced those items I would just do all 6)


The search bar in the upper right will take you straight to all those codes. There you can read what other people did to fix similar scenarios.


If I had to guess I would say either the EGR is clogged or the EGR purge valve solenoid is not working.
For the Lean codes make sure you do net have an intake air leak. The accordion hose running from the air cleaner is notorious.


OEM parts
Mazda AJTT-18-110 - Spark Plugs x6 (these will be Motorcraft AGSF 22FSCM)
DENSO 673 6005 - Ignition Coils x6
I checked the accordion hose and found no leak thus far with my miniscule car know how. My dad suggested taking it to Mazda for diagnostics and see what it'll need.
Crossing fingers it won't take all my tax money
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Hi I'm new in this forum. My car is throwing a lot of codes involving the EGR and the system Bank. I have a po303 po401 p2179 p2177 and many more does anyone know how to diagnose this or fix it?

Welcome to the form, we love our wagons (although I could be biased)


The P0303 is the killer, you gotta get this fixed. Usually I is remedies by new plugs and coils but moving cylinder 3 to another location and waiting for the code retuen would be a way to verify. (It is happened so many times on this forum that if you haven't replaced those items I would just do all 6)


The search bar in the upper right will take you straight to all those codes. There you can read what other people did to fix similar scenarios.


If I had to guess I would say either the EGR is clogged or the EGR purge valve solenoid is not working.
For the Lean codes make sure you do net have an intake air leak. The accordion hose running from the air cleaner is notorious.


OEM parts
Mazda AJTT-18-110 - Spark Plugs x6 (these will be Motorcraft AGSF 22FSCM)
DENSO 673 6005 - Ignition Coils x6

PS......are aftermarket iridium plugs worth the buy?
 

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I checked the accordion hose and found no leak thus far with my miniscule car know how. My dad suggested taking it to Mazda for diagnostics and see what it'll need.
Crossing fingers it won't take all my tax money
Taking it into the dealer for a diagnostic is often a great solution. They have more vehicle specific knowledge than an independent and can often get to the crux of the problem with less labor. Regardless, I'd make sure you solve that misfire quickly. I'd replace all the coils to avoid future misfires as others fail. Keep us posted on how it goes.
 

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I checked the accordion hose and found no leak thus far with my miniscule car know how. My dad suggested taking it to Mazda for diagnostics and see what it'll need.
Crossing fingers it won't take all my tax money
If I can give one piece of advice, it's to NEVER take a car that's out of warranty to a dealership. This is an older car with a very common Ford engine and parts, and any experienced local, independent mechanic will be able to do a great job on it at a fraction of the dealership cost. Dealership service writers get kickbacks for piling on service suggestions that you may or may not need.
 

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What @MazdaMetalhead says is true for the actual repairs in my opinion. But I still see value on the diagnostic part. I had an astro cargo van that had problems with the idle air control valve working intermittantly. After a frustrating couple rounds at an independant shop, I took it to a dealer. They said, oh, we see that all the time. There is a wiring loom under the battery that vibrates on the chassis and wears off the insulation on the wire from the computer to the IAC valve and either shorts it to ground or eventually breaks the wire. I took it back home, soldered the wire back together and re wrapped the wiring loom and the problem was solved. The independent shop took two rounds of parts replacements and eventually gave up. That quick trip to the dealer was the best 80 bucks I ever spent!
 

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What @MazdaMetalhead says is true for the actual repairs in my opinion. But I still see value on the diagnostic part. I had an astro cargo van that had problems with the idle air control valve working intermittantly. After a frustrating couple rounds at an independant shop, I took it to a dealer. They said, oh, we see that all the time. There is a wiring loom under the battery that vibrates on the chassis and wears off the insulation on the wire from the computer to the IAC valve and either shorts it to ground or eventually breaks the wire. I took it back home, soldered the wire back together and re wrapped the wiring loom and the problem was solved. The independent shop took two rounds of parts replacements and eventually gave up. That quick trip to the dealer was the best 80 bucks I ever spent!
I agree. Dealerships can have superior diagnostics equipment and, sometimes, expertise on specific models. Sometimes it pays to have them tell you what's wrong, but usually not to have them actually fix it as opposed to an independent mechanic.
 

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PS......are aftermarket iridium plugs worth the buy?

I would go witha plug that has at least the minimum specification as OEM. In this case the factory put a platinum plug in so going with that as a minimum would be advisable. Many on this forum and other Mazda forums speak highly of the NGK iridium plugs. I have been having good luck with the Motorcraft Platinum (the 3.0l AJ motor is a Ford power plant).


The Denso coils are OEM manufacturer at a fraction of the price.


Six new coils and plugs (Motorcraft plat.) from rockauto should run you less than $200 delivered. The other problems your can sort out with more time.
If the coils are original I would definitely start with that.


 

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Discussion Starter #14
I checked the accordion hose and found no leak thus far with my miniscule car know how. My dad suggested taking it to Mazda for diagnostics and see what it'll need.
Crossing fingers it won't take all my tax money
If I can give one piece of advice, it's to NEVER take a car that's out of warranty to a dealership. This is an older car with a very common Ford engine and parts, and any experienced local, independent mechanic will be able to do a great job on it at a fraction of the dealership cost. Dealership service writers get kickbacks for piling on service suggestions that you may or may not need.
Not to sound dumb, what are kickbacks?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
What @MazdaMetalhead says is true for the actual repairs in my opinion. But I still see value on the diagnostic part. I had an astro cargo van that had problems with the idle air control valve working intermittantly. After a frustrating couple rounds at an independant shop, I took it to a dealer. They said, oh, we see that all the time. There is a wiring loom under the battery that vibrates on the chassis and wears off the insulation on the wire from the computer to the IAC valve and either shorts it to ground or eventually breaks the wire. I took it back home, soldered the wire back together and re wrapped the wiring loom and the problem was solved. The independent shop took two rounds of parts replacements and eventually gave up. That quick trip to the dealer was the best 80 bucks I ever spent!

Daaaaaamn on the shop. I see the point now
 

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Discussion Starter #16
PS......are aftermarket iridium plugs worth the buy?

I would go witha plug that has at least the minimum specification as OEM. In this case the factory put a platinum plug in so going with that as a minimum would be advisable. Many on this forum and other Mazda forums speak highly of the NGK iridium plugs. I have been having good luck with the Motorcraft Platinum (the 3.0l AJ motor is a Ford power plant).


The Denso coils are OEM manufacturer at a fraction of the price.


Six new coils and plugs (Motorcraft plat.) from rockauto should run you less than $200 delivered. The other problems your can sort out with more time.
If the coils are original I would definitely start with that.


Just got the iridium ones put in. Now to find a good shift knob any pointers???
 

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Just got the iridium ones put in. Now to find a good shift knob any pointers???
Well done, those plugs will be great and last a long time.
As far as shift knobs are concerned it is a pretty personal item. You just like what you like. There are threads here that explore this very topic.
https://forum.mazda6club.com/engine-drivetrain/293849-show-off-your-shift-knob.html
a quick search will reveal more. Some of other places are
Corksport
Revolution Performance Motorsport.
Cobb Tuning

Rally Sport Direct
Raceseng Mazda
There are bound to be countless others but these are some of my favorite pages.
Good luck and show us what you get.
 

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Not to sound dumb, what are kickbacks?
In this context, the service writer may get a bonus for adding on 'recommended' service items that you may not really need to increase the dealership's revenue.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Just got the iridium ones put in. Now to find a good shift knob any pointers???
Well done, those plugs will be great and last a long time.
As far as shift knobs are concerned it is a pretty personal item. You just like what you like. There are threads here that explore this very topic.
https://forum.mazda6club.com/engine-drivetrain/293849-show-off-your-shift-knob.html
a quick search will reveal more. Some of other places are
Corksport
Revolution Performance Motorsport.
Cobb Tuning

Rally Sport Direct
Raceseng Mazda
There are bound to be countless others but these are some of my favorite pages.
Good luck and show us what you get.
Bro I wish I knew this earlier. Just got the wrong shift knob adapter for the car went for a new chrome look
 
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Jael Ryan
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