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Discussion Starter #1
First off thanks for having me aboard this group!!! I currently have a 2003 Mazda 6 with the 2.3 liter engine, been fitting a bit of noise usually when it’s first warming up and sometime periodically throughout the day, it sounds almost identical to a bad belt tensioner pulley, to date I have replaced the belt tensioner, idler pulley and belt and the noise is still there and I am stumped!!! Hopefully someone on this group could help steer me in the right direction of other possible things to check / replace , car has 150,000 I am the second owner of it

Thank you
 

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Discussion Starter #2
I am almost starting think after a little research it could possibly be a timing chain tensioner?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Took it on a long trip this weekend and didn’t make the noise at all, as soon as I got home it started again, think it’s time to take it to the shop!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I took a video of the noise and the area it is coming from , but having issues uploading it , YouTube is not working for me either
 

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I took a video of the noise and the area it is coming from , but having issues uploading it , YouTube is not working for me either
Partially wild guess... when you replaced the pulley, belt etc, did you check, spin the AC to make sure it was spinning freely?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
No I didn’t , I am wondering if maybe the bearing in the Ac pulley is making all the racket??
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Well I popped the belt off today and the pulley spins pretty freely but still think it could possibly be the bearing, I already got the bearing and attempted to replace it but for the life of me could not pop the clutch off was able to remove the bolt in the middle fairly easy, does anyone have any tips or tricks to remove the clutch?
 

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Well I popped the belt off today and the pulley spins pretty freely but still think it could possibly be the bearing, I already got the bearing and attempted to replace it but for the life of me could not pop the clutch off was able to remove the bolt in the middle fairly easy, does anyone have any tips or tricks to remove the clutch?
What you need starts here. The pictures all start on #9.
When the clutch plate comes off be sure to not loose any of the shims (special washers) from the inside of the clutch cover center shaft point.

The other location that it could be are one (or both) of the alternator bearings.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks for the info! Are the 3 smalls bolts in the picture actually push the clutch off or are they Only there to loosen the middle bolt or both? Once I take care of this bearing I am going to the alternator !
 

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Thanks for the info! Are the 3 smalls bolts in the picture actually push the clutch off or are they Only there to loosen the middle bolt or both? Once I take care of this bearing I am going to the alternator !
The 3 small M5 bolts are just there to remove the clutch plate. Tighten them sequentially and they will extract the cover from the shaft. The middle bolt is an easy off with an impact driver.
You'll need a snap ring pliers and a press/big-vise.

I am doing the alternator bearings this spring.
Alternator bearing, Rear MazdaN336-18-W36$24.01
Alternator bearing, FrontMazdaPN16-18-W27$20.53
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Thank you so much for your help I think I will be able to do it now!! Going to be trying to do it in the car so should be interesting lol
 

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Little update on the car!!! Ended up replacing the Ac compressor and the alternator and now all the noise have gone away!!!

Onto the next issue I am having , awhile back I lost all power steering fluid , turns out the wire for the fan had rubbed a whole in the hardline, so my question is does anyone know a part number for the hardline it runs right under the radiator it’s conected to a rubber hose towards the pump so I am assuming it’s return or a cooling line, any help would be great!!!
 

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Little update on the car!!! Ended up replacing the Ac compressor and the alternator and now all the noise have gone away!!!
Great news! That is a bit of expense/work but glad it silenced the noise and maybe saved you from being stranded on the road.
The Mazda Power Steering Pressure Hose is GK2A-32-420B ($240) RA
The Mazda Power Steering Return hose is:
ATX = GK2E-32-410F ($120) RA
MTX = GK2A-32-410H ($75)
Check yours to be sure.


Rockauto dot com is going to get you a Gates replacement pressure hose for about $70

There is a DIY on this site to bleed the power steering.

Good Luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Great news! That is a bit of expense/work but glad it silenced the noise and maybe saved you from being stranded on the road.
The Mazda Power Steering Pressure Hose is GK2A-32-420B ($240) RA
The Mazda Power Steering Return hose is:
ATX = GK2E-32-410F ($120) RA
MTX = GK2A-32-410H ($75)
Check yours to be sure.


Rockauto dot com is going to get you a Gates replacement pressure hose for about $70

There is a DIY on this site to bleed the power steering.

Good Luck.
I got to thinking about it, with it being a low pressure line and just a small leak would there be anything wrong with cutting out the bad section splice in a hose?
 

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I got to thinking about it, with it being a low pressure line and just a small leak would there be anything wrong with cutting out the bad section splice in a hose?
No, that would be a reasonable temporary fix fine for a low pressure line. You would probably use a barbed splice and clamps yes?
239355


You'll spend $8 on the fix or $6-$15 on an aftermarket hose.
The part I am unsure about is when you said hole in the metal. The metal is the pressure line and you would need something like this.
239356

In addition to a pipe cutter.
239357

About $30 to repair that.

I would replace the line.

Good Luck. (y)
 
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